[SayNoToPistons]

Tried swapping to the rear speakers as signal source. I grabbed the rear full range output from the Bose amp/processor.

Same results with harsh highs and missing mids. Though I noticed the subwoofer's bass less muddy and signal is much lower. Once again, as I disconnect the wires to the amp/subwoofer while everything is playing, the 9 speaker Bose system sounds normal without the harsh highs and missing mids.

Can the integrated Line Level Converter in the powered subwoofer play a roll? Would switching to a dedicated LOC make a difference?

 

[SayNoToPistons]

Insights?

 

[subterFUSE]

So you are trying to tap a factory audio signal from a speaker, but keeping that speaker still connected and playing? Can that even work? (I'm asking honestly because I simply don't know)

The only experience I have is with tapping a factory amp signal into a DSP and replacing all of the speakers for the system. This method works great in my current car with Bose.

 

[subterFUSE]

Can the integrated Line Level Converter in the powered subwoofer play a roll? Would switching to a dedicated LOC make a difference?

That would be the next thing to test, I think. Try another converter.

 

[josby]

From the diagram, it looks like there are two shielded groups of four wires each (1A1C1D1F in one group, 1S1U1V1X in the other) than run from the head unit to the amp. The marketing materials say the amp is digital, but still, it looks to me like those could be analog lines for front left, front right, rear left, and rear right. If it was sending a digital stream, I'd only expect to see two lines from HU to amp.

Fade the system completely to the front and to the left, then play a 60hz tone through the system and see if you can pick up an AC voltage reading between any two of the pins in one of those groups with a multimeter. If so, you've probably found a pre-Bose low-level signal you can tap.

 

[josby]

I have a 2014 Mazda6 and ended up checking this myself, because I'm planning to install a JBL MS-8 and wanted to know where I could tap to get a full-range pre-Bose signal.

Oddly, the CX-5 is slightly different than the Mazda6. Yours has 2H on the amp that is tied to 1L on the headunit and to the instrument cluster, while on the 6, there's just 1L from the HU to the instrument cluster. My amp also has a terminal 2D that runs to the accessory position relay that your amp doesn't appear to have. Weird.

Anyway, using a 60Hz test tone, I was able to see a max of about 1.8V with the HU volume at Max on these lines I mentioned. I was using a really old analog meter, though, so the number may really be 2.0V, since that's more standard I think.

Using the balance and fader controls, I was able to determine they map this way:

front left - 1A and 1C (first pair in harness)
front right - 1D and 1F (second pair in harness)
rear left - 1S and 1U (third pair in harness)
rear right - 1V and 1X (fourth pair in harness)

So, you should be able to run from these to the RCA input of your amplifier and get a full-range signal that won't mess up whatever the Bose amplifier is trying to do, hopefully.

 

[Woosey]

other options: Deaden the hell out of those doors! they need it.. ( Yes I have installed an audio system in a cx-5 )
Maybe you're playing the sub with inversed polarity, losing lower midrange detail due to cancellation..

Why buy a car with bose? lol

 

[josby]

Maybe you're playing the sub with inversed polarity, losing lower midrange detail due to cancellation..

He mentioned in his original post that he'd tried with the phase switch on his amp at both 0 and 180 degrees, so that's not it.

Why buy a car with bose? lol

In my case, it wasn't optional.

 

[audioguy]

I know this is an old post, but I was wondering "SayNotopistons" if you ever resolved this and was Josby correct? I would assume he was but I am doing research on my 2016 CX5 now.