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Little project for dad, 84 C10 Widebody

178K views 1K replies 132 participants last post by  SUX 2BU 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Hi guys,
So I am a old timer that loves audio, and became addicted in high school after installing a Punch 150 running 2 15" Kicker Comps in a 83 Celica HB. That poor rear hatch. . . Anyway, I'm sure just like most of us my dad loves going to car shows and looking at all the cool stuff. So in 2001 he decided to buy a clean, freshly restored 84' C10 to have fun with and use around the house.

Well roughly a year and a half ago I found out that I had a serious health issues to deal with and went and stayed with him for a few months. While there I noticed old blue sitting in the garage without tags and looking lonely, so I turned her into a project. What started out as a upgraded interior, a cheap set of Coy staggered wheels from ebay, little bit of lowering and a basic paint job has turned into this. I should note that I found out this is the last thing I'm going to build so it became a mission. Sound quality and staging is most important on this one, so I didn't want to door mount and have legs in the way. At the same time I want the interior to be exceptionally clean and resto mod esq.

AUDIO

Speakers: CDT Audio
All enclosures are to exact spec.
3 - QES820's in a 2.6cft ported enclosure
Pair of HDM6's in a .40 cft ported enclosure each behind the dash
Pair of HD4's in .05 sealed next to the 6
Pair of DRT26 silk tweeters, one it's up and running I'm going to play with the mounting location.
Pair of MX1000 SX 3 Way passive crossovers

AMPS: AUDISON
Currently I have a pair of SRX 2S's that will run each 3 way set. I have debated running one on the 4/tweet and the other on the 6's, tbd. Mono sub amp will be purchased soon if anyone has one for sale. Has to be Audison.

Controller TBD

Wish me luck, I need it!
J








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[img]http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=79850&d=1437509527
 

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#44 · (Edited by Moderator)
Got some Vert on dash pieces today. They still need a final pass with some Matter, but finally this thing is starting to look like a dash!






 

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#45 · (Edited by Moderator)
Had to redesign how the dash pieces come apart yesterday. The top of the dash, all the way up by the windshield, would not clear the speaker mounts when trying to remove (had a brain fart while installing...ugh). So the best thing I could come up with, was to attach it to the mount for the fronts halves. That way it can easily be removed and the 2 small seams will be very difficult to see since there so far forward and behind the dash humps.

While I had it out, took a pic of the midbass enclosure mounted up in the truck. Still need to figure out where to port the enclosure. It needs to be 2" x 13.8".



 

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#46 ·
More amazing progress! I'm surprised this build isn't getting more attention. You are showcasing some incredible talent, attention to detail, progression of the hobby, etc.

Either way, I'm tuned in and looking for updates whenever you've got time to post them! :D:D
 
#52 ·
Thanks! It's my fault, I started the post a bit ago then took 2 months off. Hopefully now that the build is 7 days a week it will gain some traction.

Positive feedback always fuels the fire. Not to mention I love opinions and input, positive or negative!
 
#55 · (Edited by Moderator)
Very happy with how the edge turned out. The rear tape took a bit to get off since that piece was already attached to the mount, but got it out. Need to build up one of the rear corners, little triangle broke off when removing the tape but no biggie.


 

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#56 ·
Very happy with how the edge turned out. The rear tape took a bit to get off since that piece was already attached to the mount, but got it out. Need to build up one of the rear corners, little triangle broke off when removing the tape but no biggie.
I think its looking great and the foam tape is perfect for vinyl gaps!

Look at Chris Yato's instagram and he has a post about why you will have detachment issues with fillers an MDF. Basically it boils down to the filler not being able to etch or absorb into the pores of the MDF. If you coat it with a light amount or resin first, it'll bond incredibly well... so well that the wood will break beyond the "joint" before the joint fails.
 
#60 · (Edited by Moderator)
Well I might of just solved my amp problem. A good friend finally gave in and is selling me his PPI Art A200, A404 and A600. Think I'm going to sell the Audison SRX2s and buy 1 more A600 and call it a day. I had a bit of a mishap and lost one of my SRX2s's. Currently they all work great but before installing them in this build, I would love to find someone to freshen them up. The only thing is I'm a little nervous that the A200 might not be enough for the 4 & tweet. Bridged the A404 is rated at 200x2 @ 4ohm, so thats perfect for the midbass drivers. The A600 is 600x1 @ 4ohm, so that will run 2-8's perfect. With the addition of 1 more A600, the subs should perform perfect when factoring in it's a small standard cab pickup. Originally I built the console for 4-8's in a sealed setup, then rebuilt it only using 2 subs in a ported set up (that's the enclosure in the pics currently). Now, using a stacked style enclosure, I can get 3 in there, maybe 4. I just don't think I need that many subs.

Everyone talks about how great these amps are and I do agree, but I have virtually no hands on knowledge with anything produced after 1999. Is something like a Audison VOCE 5.1k 5 channel a better, plus more efficient way to power this system?

Regardless, if anyone knows of a person/shop that is reputable and refurbish's old school amps, I would really appreciate the info. Also, I would love to find someone that can silkscreen the cases. Would love to paint them the color the truck's going (dark gray) and get them silk screened black & red from the black version of the Art Series.




 

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#62 · (Edited by Moderator)
So I had a bit of a brain fart Tuesday when I called US Composites to order some Polyester Resin, recommended by Chris Yato on his Instagram, to seal porous substrates like MDF. By accident, I ordered Thin Epoxy Resin: 4/1 ratio for fastest cure time and recommended for colder conditions. I was having a bit of a lifting issue on the upper dash halves where the VERT or Duraglass met the MDF. Per The Master, you apply a very thin coat of Polyester Resin then wipe off any access, while it's still wet apply your filler directly on top of the resin. The heat given off by both while they cure creates an incredibly strong bond, while also absorbing into the mdf.

Since I'm on a budget, I didn't want to toss the Epoxy Resin without at least trying a piece first. I had 2 goals, first I wanted to seal up the MDF before using any spreads and secondly, protect the MDF from my over sanding habits. Since the cure time is much longer with the Epoxy (vs Polyester), I let the resin completely dry prior to applying any spreads (different than Chris's technique due to product). I had some tin in the garage from a old project, a couple solar blankets, sheet of plastic, heater and a frame made out of 1x1's... presto a hot box. Here in NC it's in the 50's during the day but 30's at night. US Composites states the cure time for the 4/1 ratio is 3-4 hours but if the temp drops below 60 it can take twice as much time. The hot box stays over 90 degrees if the heaters on. After running the heater for an hour, then covering it up, it stays over 70 degrees for over 4 hours.

I have to say, I'm really happy with the results. Other than having to wait a couple hours for the pieces to cure (I leave them in the box overnight) it worked great and the spreads adhere much, much better. The best part is it completely fixed my lift issues. The spreads stick to the epoxy like glue and while you're sanding spreads, you have a buffer between the MDF and your sandpaper (big deal for me!). I lightly sanded the piece and applied Duraglass over some tongue depressors (end of the dash) and Sonus Matter over the front, needed to level off some low spots. Both dash tops now have epoxy on them and they feel much more rigid. This may be overkill, but since I don't have much experience using spreads, I found myself over sanding and the last thing I wanted to do was mess up the pieces I have already routed, glued and assembled! The epoxy is so much harder than the MDF not only does the spread bond better, it has given me a layer of protection before the happy sander destroys his work.







 

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#63 ·
So I had a bit of a brain fart Tuesday when I called US Composites to order some Polyester Resin, recommended by Chris Yato on his Instagram, to seal porous substrates like MDF. By accident, I ordered Thin Epoxy Resin: 4/1 ratio for fastest cure time and recommended for colder conditions. I was having a bit of a lifting issue on the upper dash halves where the VERT or Duraglass met the MDF. Per The Master, you apply a very thin coat of Polyester Resin then wipe off any access, while it's still wet apply your filler directly on top of the resin. The heat given off by both while they cure creates an incredibly strong bond, while also absorbing into the mdf.

Since I'm on a budget, I didn't want to toss the Epoxy Resin without at least trying a piece first. More than anything, my goal was to seal up the MDF before using any spreads. Since the cure time is much longer with the Epoxy (vs Polyester), I let the resin completely dry prior to applying any spreads. I had some tin in the garage from a old project, a couple solar blankets, sheet of plastic, heater and a frame made out of 1x1's... presto a hot box. Here in NC it's in the 50's during the day but 30's at night. US Composites states the cure time for the 4/1 ratio is 3-4 hours but if the temp drops below 60 it can take twice as much time. With the box it stays over 90 if the heaters on. After running the heater for a hour, then covering it up, it stays over 70 degrees all night.

I have to say I'm really happy with the results. Other than a couple hour cure time it worked great and the spreads adhere much, much better plus, there is zero lifting issues. I lightly sanded the piece and applied Duraglass over some tongue depressors (build up the end of the dash), and Sonus Matter over the front to level off some low spots. Both tops are now done and they feel much more rigid. This may be overkill but since I don't have much experience using spreads, I found myself over sanding and the last thing I wanted to do was mess up the pieces I routered! The epoxy is so much harder than the MDF not only will the spreads bond better, it will help give me a layer of protection before the happy sander destroys his work.
I use Epoxy resin almost exclusively. I am a fan since it is far less pungent and lays up much better. The only 2 drawbacks that I have found is the cure time and I am no longer able to use chopped mat. Overall I am much more happy after using it because I dont smell aweful and my nasal cavity thanks me. My family also appreciates not having to smell the poly resin anymore emanating from the garage into the house.
 
#74 ·
If I could only remember who gave me the idea.... :thumbsup:

I've read so many things about front waves that I'm confused. If I were to ripple the face of the surface, you think it would be better than if I keep it smooth?
 
#67 ·
Wow, can't believe I missed this one. What a very interesting build, especially considering your using CDT (love them).

Have you figured out your issue with the port for the M6s? I have studied the up on them quite a bit for a build I was going to use on and they actually prefer small sealed for solid MB impact. Have you tried them in any enclosures and see how they perform for you and if you like the sound in the particular enclosures?

I haven't had the opportunity to hear them in ported or IB, so this will be interesting to see. Definitely tuned in.
 
#70 ·
I actually spoke to Ken (CDT) Friday for recommendations. Figured who better, right! He told me to actually port them forward, towards the firewall on the backside of the enclosure. I never would have thought that, but when the guy that built the speakers tells you something, you listen.

I thought it would be interesting to have a midbass driver that plays a bit lower than most systems. It may be a huge mistake, but I am excited to see how it sounds with just the 3 way set playing. I was hoping to roll the HDM6 off around 60-70hz. My thinking was to get as much sound emanating from one central spot as possible. I'm not a pro so please be easy on me, I'm sure I'm wrong I just haven't seen many systems built like this and thought it would be interesting. I am very nervous about the actual drivers placement. I think they're to far center, but too late now. The question comes down to will they sound better then if they were in the door with a set of legs in the way? I haven't ported the enclosures yet, so trying them sealed first sounds like a good idea.
 
#73 ·
Thanks! I really appreciate it, really wish I would have gone to a Sonus training session before I started this. If I try to go now, I'm worried I would throw the whole thing away and start from scratch once I got home. :idea2:

Thank goodness for Instagram, Facebook and some really good guys that have been very generous with their knowledge. :2thumbsup:
 
#71 ·
As of right now, the dash will be leather or vinyl. Really want leather but I don't want anything sewn, pretty sure it can be done. The dash inserts, egg like pieces, will be either satin/eggshell silver or gloss silver. The snap in pieces will be either gloss black or carbon. I haven't figured what finish to do the actual speaker flush in panels, green tape. I love how you finished your fan shrouds in carbon! Pretty sure it will be some sort of paint or overlay carbon.

BTW, thanks again for the kind words. Having guys of your level compliment this build really make a guy feel great!
 
#87 · (Edited by Moderator)
Almost done with the drivers side. This side has kicked my butt, from having to redesign the bottom, to securing the mounts with 2 pieces instead of one, ect. I'm so excited to get back on the router with the ULW MDF! Decided to hold off on building the flush panel for the drivers right now. Need to do a bit more homework. Hopefully this floating, recessed upper center console is going to work.

 

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#88 ·
Shawn's handle is ShawnK on here and he is the best around. His work on amps and woofers has flat out amazed me. He is pretty modest too. The work he did for my buddy Chris on his PPI's was second to none.

Also, I am happy more people are using the ULW MDF... it's been something I've been pushing for years. Many argue that its too pricy, but I have about a dozen reasons I use it almost exclusively.

Your build continues to take "shape" and wow everyone, kudos my friend!!
 
#89 · (Edited by Moderator)
I just reached out to Shawn, thanks both Justin and Dave for the tip. Here's the thing with the ULWMDF, if you don't find the right place to purchase it, it can scare you. I called roughly a dozen places here in the Winston Salem/Charlotte/Greensboro area and only found 1 that could get it for me. The problem was they wanted $76.49 per .75 sheet. That same sheet is $52.00 at my now favorite place, Woodcrafters of Rockville (thanks TheDavel)!

Now I don't know if this is the case nationwide, but here in NC Lowes sells Arauco Trupan .75 MDF and it happens to be their "Lite" version, not ULW which Arauco also makes. This is much easier to router than the Home Depot .75 MDF. Lowes Lite version is actually a bit less than Depots standard too, $32.00 vs $36.00. Arauco's North America distribution center is actually here in NC so they may be saving on the shipping, don't know. It just great for anybody that uses a router.

For those of you that haven't tried ULWMDF, you don't know what you're missing! For those thin, pressure fit trim panels that you worry about breaking every time when routing, no worries with this. Simply amazing stuff and to think they have .75, 1, 1.25 and 1.5", you can do it all.

Pulling my hair out right now deciding whether or not to build a third center/sub enclosure. Do I run 2 ported or 4 sealed 8's, that is the question. :confused:

Here's the base shape of the upper center console.



 

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#90 · (Edited by Moderator)
Been working on the dash a bit. It's a little tough since I don't have the source unit yet so while building, I'm using double din sizing. Added a bit of plexi that will be illuminated. This will be finished in a matte silver, mounted onto black alcantara.










 

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#97 ·
You're right, ever since I purchased the ULWMDF I've been able to do things like I see online by the pro's. I did start having fun after I received all of my bits and router setup from 12VTools back in June, then again when I received Micha's (Sonus) products. But then I became frustrated when I couldn't get the MDF to do what I wanted (trying to learn the router while building didn't help). But now with the ULW, I'm one with the wood.

Can you guys get ULWMDF over there?
 
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