Introduction:
If you are looking to spend between $400 and $800, then hopefully this thread can help you with some Install tips and choosing your equipment. I first started off with a budget system due to my income. But as my income changed, so did my install. Check out my install now:
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=33264
In this thread, you will get a better idea of Phasing, Time Alignment, Imaging, and Quality Equipment.
So, read on,.... because this thread can save you money and might answer some of your questions.
(prices could have changed by now)
(all the highlights in red are for beginners)
(all the highlights in blue are comments from today)
Story:
My first big budget system was about $800, I can't remember much about it other than I had 2 alpine 10" type R subs powered by a fosgate 250 amp and a fancy sony cd player. (I just took the installer's advice)
It had bass, but not the "I'm here" from a block away bass. But in the car, (92 hatch back eagle talon) I was pretty happy.
My second was a Basic Sony Xplod System (about $400)
Sony Xplod CD Deck
Sony Xplod 6" Co-axial front doors (powered by deck)
Sony Xplod 3 way rear (powered by deck)
10" no name active sub. (self amplified)
This is pretty much a starter system, and the most basic setup.
Basically a budget way to upgrade the stock system in a budget car using factory locations.
I was happy and enjoyed my drive. Sometimes I would park and just listen to music.
FYI: Mercs, Audi's etc,... come with stock systems that have better SQ (Sound Quality) than the basic sony xplod system.
Sound Quality in car audio:
Usually determined by "Imaging", "Clarity", "Sound Reproduction" and "Sound Stage" in the reproduction of music within the vehicle.
Then my first experiment was with adding an additional tweeter on the dashboard. The tweeter I purchased was a basic kenwood tweeter with a basic attached crossover.
crossover:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Audio_crossover
And wow, I liked my car system even more. It brought the sound stage higher up to my dashboard and made the sound bigger. My system had a new improved feel to it. (nothing difinitive, but it made a big difference)
Sound Stage in car audio:
The sense of where the sound is coming from. (large room, small room)
Then about a year later I decided to upgrade my player to a $300 Pioneer player. That was an expensive upgrade for me, but because I felt like my speakers were good enough, the player would be the next logical step for me. And it turned out to be a good step.
The first thing I noticed was that my system sounded better. (this is because the cd player had better components to reproduce the musical data from the cd) It had clarity and sounds better at higher volumes(decibles) compared to the "budget" Xplod Cd player.
Then about a year later I changed cars. And since I Love driving and listening to music, and since my income increased, I decided to get a better system.
I came up with a theory, larger drivers(speakers) = bigger sound.
Example: If all drivers were created equal, then 6" drivers will sound louder than 4" drivers. And 4" drivers will sound louder than 2" drivers, etc...
(I had no sense of imaging at this time, mainly because I wasn't aware of it)(and no idea that speakers can not play the whole frequency line between 20hz to 20K hz, which is where music is normally recorded)
Imaging:
The positioning of elements within a recording intended by the recorder.
Must have a minimum of a stereo system(2007)(2 channels, commonly known as a Left and Right channel). A good stereo system can define where the singer and the drummer is during playback. A better stereo system will make it seem as the sound does not come from the speaker, like make the speakers disappear.
Imaging wasn't all important to me at the time. I just wanted to blast my music.
So my first thought was, replace my kenwood tweeters (about 1" and a half) with 4" drivers on the dashboard and my 6" Door Coaxials(2 in 1 speakers, normally a 6" and a Tweeter) with 8" drivers. I also got a couple amplifiers to power them (sony xplod 4ch and kenwood 4ch) and a kenwood eq/passive crossover to handle the many channels. I had 2 co-axial alpine type R's in the rear and 2 x 12" eclipse sw6300 powered by an american bass amp, so called rated at 1000 watts. (I spent about $1200)(I can do better with $1200 if you asked me now)(I made the mistake of using price as a referance for quality)(NEVER USE PRICE AS A REFERANCE FOR SOUND QUALITY)(RESEARCH RESEARCH RESEARCH)(NEVER TAKE THREADS AT FACE VALUE, unless it came from a reputable person)(no offence to those who are sincere, but I have read some way off garbage)(CAR AUDIO AND ELECTRONICS magazine is my light in CAR AUDIO)(EBAY stores are your friend, I've bought some kick ass equipment from EBAY, save $$$)
Automatically, the installer installed the 4" comp set with their passive crossovers.
Passive Crossover:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Passive_crossover#Passive_crossovers
And Holy Wow, I loved it! It sounded better than my previous set up. It was louder and cleaner, but more importantly LOUDER.
The 4" kenwoods were a basic 2 way component set (2 speakers, normally comprised off a Mid speaker and a tweeter) less than $100.
I had the 4"s on the dashboard facing the listener in custom enclosures, and the tweeter along side of it.
Golden information about a redundant multiple speaker setup:
I thought I hit the mark with this, so I decided to add another 4" in the factory location, located in the lower part of the dash pointing downwards.
I went with 4" crossfire coaxial (less than $100). And yes it was louder, but just not the same. It wasn't clear, something was wrong. I ended up turning them off. (this is when I learned about PHASING)
Phasing:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phasing
Phasing in car audio is bad. It makes it muddy.
So the 4" crossfires were a waste. I even tried a pair of 4" rockford co-axials ($250), because I thought it was maybe a quality issue. And I returned them. So I stuck with the 4" comps on the dashboard. (at this point, I was oblivious to High, Mids and Lows in car audio, I was thinking there were speakers that can reproduce the whole musical spectrum, which is a common beginner assumption)
Learning about 3 way component sets gave me a wealth of knowledge and opened up new doors for me. I didn't bother looking here yet because they were pricey. (which I know many people do)
So one day, I let some dude audition my car and he said it was so so. I was puzzled, because I thought my car sounds better than most of the basic installs.
So I thought it was a quality issue. Soon after, I bought a boston accoustic gt series 4" comp. Which is also my first major driver purchase because it was pricey ($200).
Eureka! Absolutley huge increase in sound quality.
Revelation: Sound Quality is in the Driver, because if the speakers can't produce the tone, then you won't hear it.
So I was driving around town happily, satisfied, listening while parked etc.
THIS IS WHEN EVENTS BECOME INTERESTING
Then months later, having what I learned about Cd players I decided to upgrade. My income increased and so did my options. I bought a pioneer deh p980bt (premier line)($650 at the time), a Pioneer prs-d5000spl mono sub amp($350) and a Audison Srx 2s (2ch)($350).
I've learned 2 IMPORTANT things from this purchase.
First Lesson Learned Mono Block Amps (Amplifiers make a big difference)
I replaced the american bass used to power my 2 x 12" eclipse's with the prs d5000 spl and I instantly realized the bass response was much faster (keeping up with music), cleaner and more powerful . And that I needed a larger capacitor , since my 1 and 2 farad caps weren't enough because the bass started cutting off at higher volumes.)
capacitor:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitors
(capacitors are for HIGH wattage systems, and are used to add instant power to the amp when the amp asks for it)(But if the the power requirements are more than the Capacitor's storage(measured in Farads), then there will be a distruption in energy flow which translates to your music cutting off. Which is why people who compete in SPL (sound pressure level) competitions don't bother with capacitors and chain multiple batteries instead)
FYI: Higher Decibels(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Decibels) require more power consumption, especially larger magnets, which also adds heat.
Pioneer Premier PRS-D5000spl:
http://www.pioneer.eu/eur/products/archive/PRS-D5000SPL/index.html
(I didn't know at the time, but: http://news.hspn.com/articles/855/1...ition-at-2006-DB-Drag-World-Finals/Page1.html)
So, be careful when purchasing mono block amps. Many claim high watts, but aren't, so look for the CEA rating, and if it doesn't have one, and you really want to buy it, then check the aesthetics. Because if it doesn't look good and doesn't have a cea rating, then why bother. Just Kidding . But choosing the right sub amp can make the difference between having the beats on cue, and your sub box playing its own music.
CEA:
http://www.ce.org/AboutCEA/default.asp
(industry authority on industry standards)
(Many major manufacturers have CEA ratings like Alpine and Pioneer)
Second Lesson Learned: CD Player (CD Player Processors are critical)
The 980bt comes with 2 very important and critical features, a 24bit Burr Brown Digital to Analog (D/A) converter and Time Alignment.
Digital to Analog:
Music in CD's are recorded digitally, 1's and 0's. CD players have processors that read the 1's and 0's and translate(convert) them to analog information. (sorry, extent of my vocabulary)
FYI: 24bit converters are superior in today's market, especially Burr Browns.(but just because it doesn't have burr brown's doesn't mean it is not up to par or even better) (I've read somewhere there are 64bit or 32bit converters in the market, I was probably thinking home audio, yes, High end Home Audio is leaps ahead of High end Car Audio)(but don't dismay,High end Car Audio goes up to $330,000(http://www.luxurylaunches.com/trans...he_worlds_most_expensive_car_audio_system.php)
Converters are critical when it comes to imaging and staging. 24 bit converters are sometimes incorporated in high end amps.
Examples of high end Audiophile grade CD players:
(around $1000 retail)(EBAY is your friend)(hint, go for power sellers)
http://www.alpinef1status.com/e/technology/challenge/index.html
http://www.caraudiomag.com/testrepo...er_dexp9_deqp9_car_audio_head_unit/index.html
http://www.mcintoshlabs.com/mcprod/...nters+&+CD+Changers&prodid=1077&product=MX406
http://www.clarion.com/us/en/produc...D/DRZ9255/us-en-product-pf_1132912142959.html
Audiophile:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Audiophile
!!!
TIME ALIGNMENT IS PENICILIN FOR CAR AUDIO
!!!!
Revelations: "Time Alignment"
So I hooked up my deck and Holy WOW! it sounds good. I am deeply satifsfied. So I drive around happily again for a couple months. Until one day, I let some installer audition my car. And the dude wasn't impressed. ??? I was puzzled .
He tried to give me advice saying stuff about what I know now as "imaging". I thought I had that already, just lean to the middle, and you got it ...
So I drove home, played with my system again. But this time, I played with my time alignment settings in the cd player .
(scroll down slowly)
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
Like neanderthals getting fire...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
I was thinking .........
...
...
...
"??? wow, what is tis I'm feeling ???"
...
...
...
hmmm, wow,
...
...
...
hmmm wow,...OMG
...
...
...
WOWOWOWOWOWOWOWOWOWOWOWO
HOLY IMAGING ?!?!?!?!?!?!?!
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
If you haven't experienced time alignment in your car, then start. Because time alignment is important in creating that imaging within musical reproduction, that is, if you are not sitting in the middle.
Up to the point before Time Alignment, Car Audio was like,....cool, like a cool girl to hang out with. But after time alignment,
... I Fell In Love...
I began to see the true potential in car audio, I never thought it could be so dynamic, which is why I was hesitant to go all out. I'm a serious Headphone Audiophile(mainly because I used to take public transport), and I was astonished with the abilities of car audio today(which is a big complement). I thought it was only boom boom, roll your windows down and look cool. Sure,... but Car Audio can be much more than that.
Every time I listened to my system, I was mesmerized, and emotionally attached to my music. If Music were the elixir of life, then my car is the fountain(to bad it guzzles gas).
By having my speakers on the dashboard, the singer was directly in front of my WINDSHIELD!!! (and super dynamic) I didn't even need to try. My system basically says "Hi, I'm over here" now.
HOLY WOW WOW
(THANKS obviously to my 980bt, Boston Acoustics GT and Audison for my front stage)
I immediately considered buying jewelry for my new found love. I started looking at that expensive 3way at my local audio shop.
And,....
I told her I LOVE HER with a 3way DLS Ultimate.
HAHAHHAHAHAHA
And it sounded Beautiful... Extremely Dynamic. But I knew it can be better.
So I experimented with kick panels, morel and an 8ch A/D/S p850.2 amp. And WOW,... It sounded like a home system.
Cont. part 2
Personal Note:
You don't have to be a so called "audiophile" to know music. And you don't need a lot of money to be apart it. Because the truth is we are all audiophiles.
And from one audiophile to another, don't let the talk of pricey audio equipment get you down. Because its not the equipment that makes the song, it is the gift of hearing. I had a $400 system and I was completely happy.
But if you can, go the extra step with a good CD player with time alignment(because a good cd player can make normal speakers sound better). And keep on till you get a subwoofer going. And when shopping for equipment make sure to compare with internet prices. Which one is best for you is well,.... Your Journey.
If you are looking to spend between $400 and $800, then hopefully this thread can help you with some Install tips and choosing your equipment. I first started off with a budget system due to my income. But as my income changed, so did my install. Check out my install now:
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=33264
In this thread, you will get a better idea of Phasing, Time Alignment, Imaging, and Quality Equipment.
So, read on,.... because this thread can save you money and might answer some of your questions.
(prices could have changed by now)
(all the highlights in red are for beginners)
(all the highlights in blue are comments from today)
Story:
My first big budget system was about $800, I can't remember much about it other than I had 2 alpine 10" type R subs powered by a fosgate 250 amp and a fancy sony cd player. (I just took the installer's advice)
It had bass, but not the "I'm here" from a block away bass. But in the car, (92 hatch back eagle talon) I was pretty happy.
My second was a Basic Sony Xplod System (about $400)
Sony Xplod CD Deck
Sony Xplod 6" Co-axial front doors (powered by deck)
Sony Xplod 3 way rear (powered by deck)
10" no name active sub. (self amplified)
This is pretty much a starter system, and the most basic setup.
Basically a budget way to upgrade the stock system in a budget car using factory locations.
I was happy and enjoyed my drive. Sometimes I would park and just listen to music.
FYI: Mercs, Audi's etc,... come with stock systems that have better SQ (Sound Quality) than the basic sony xplod system.
Sound Quality in car audio:
Usually determined by "Imaging", "Clarity", "Sound Reproduction" and "Sound Stage" in the reproduction of music within the vehicle.
Then my first experiment was with adding an additional tweeter on the dashboard. The tweeter I purchased was a basic kenwood tweeter with a basic attached crossover.
crossover:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Audio_crossover
And wow, I liked my car system even more. It brought the sound stage higher up to my dashboard and made the sound bigger. My system had a new improved feel to it. (nothing difinitive, but it made a big difference)
Sound Stage in car audio:
The sense of where the sound is coming from. (large room, small room)
Then about a year later I decided to upgrade my player to a $300 Pioneer player. That was an expensive upgrade for me, but because I felt like my speakers were good enough, the player would be the next logical step for me. And it turned out to be a good step.
The first thing I noticed was that my system sounded better. (this is because the cd player had better components to reproduce the musical data from the cd) It had clarity and sounds better at higher volumes(decibles) compared to the "budget" Xplod Cd player.
Then about a year later I changed cars. And since I Love driving and listening to music, and since my income increased, I decided to get a better system.
I came up with a theory, larger drivers(speakers) = bigger sound.
Example: If all drivers were created equal, then 6" drivers will sound louder than 4" drivers. And 4" drivers will sound louder than 2" drivers, etc...
(I had no sense of imaging at this time, mainly because I wasn't aware of it)(and no idea that speakers can not play the whole frequency line between 20hz to 20K hz, which is where music is normally recorded)
Imaging:
The positioning of elements within a recording intended by the recorder.
Must have a minimum of a stereo system(2007)(2 channels, commonly known as a Left and Right channel). A good stereo system can define where the singer and the drummer is during playback. A better stereo system will make it seem as the sound does not come from the speaker, like make the speakers disappear.
Imaging wasn't all important to me at the time. I just wanted to blast my music.
So my first thought was, replace my kenwood tweeters (about 1" and a half) with 4" drivers on the dashboard and my 6" Door Coaxials(2 in 1 speakers, normally a 6" and a Tweeter) with 8" drivers. I also got a couple amplifiers to power them (sony xplod 4ch and kenwood 4ch) and a kenwood eq/passive crossover to handle the many channels. I had 2 co-axial alpine type R's in the rear and 2 x 12" eclipse sw6300 powered by an american bass amp, so called rated at 1000 watts. (I spent about $1200)(I can do better with $1200 if you asked me now)(I made the mistake of using price as a referance for quality)(NEVER USE PRICE AS A REFERANCE FOR SOUND QUALITY)(RESEARCH RESEARCH RESEARCH)(NEVER TAKE THREADS AT FACE VALUE, unless it came from a reputable person)(no offence to those who are sincere, but I have read some way off garbage)(CAR AUDIO AND ELECTRONICS magazine is my light in CAR AUDIO)(EBAY stores are your friend, I've bought some kick ass equipment from EBAY, save $$$)
Automatically, the installer installed the 4" comp set with their passive crossovers.
Passive Crossover:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Passive_crossover#Passive_crossovers
And Holy Wow, I loved it! It sounded better than my previous set up. It was louder and cleaner, but more importantly LOUDER.
The 4" kenwoods were a basic 2 way component set (2 speakers, normally comprised off a Mid speaker and a tweeter) less than $100.
I had the 4"s on the dashboard facing the listener in custom enclosures, and the tweeter along side of it.
Golden information about a redundant multiple speaker setup:
I thought I hit the mark with this, so I decided to add another 4" in the factory location, located in the lower part of the dash pointing downwards.
I went with 4" crossfire coaxial (less than $100). And yes it was louder, but just not the same. It wasn't clear, something was wrong. I ended up turning them off. (this is when I learned about PHASING)
Phasing:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phasing
Phasing in car audio is bad. It makes it muddy.
So the 4" crossfires were a waste. I even tried a pair of 4" rockford co-axials ($250), because I thought it was maybe a quality issue. And I returned them. So I stuck with the 4" comps on the dashboard. (at this point, I was oblivious to High, Mids and Lows in car audio, I was thinking there were speakers that can reproduce the whole musical spectrum, which is a common beginner assumption)
Learning about 3 way component sets gave me a wealth of knowledge and opened up new doors for me. I didn't bother looking here yet because they were pricey. (which I know many people do)
So one day, I let some dude audition my car and he said it was so so. I was puzzled, because I thought my car sounds better than most of the basic installs.
So I thought it was a quality issue. Soon after, I bought a boston accoustic gt series 4" comp. Which is also my first major driver purchase because it was pricey ($200).
Eureka! Absolutley huge increase in sound quality.
Revelation: Sound Quality is in the Driver, because if the speakers can't produce the tone, then you won't hear it.
So I was driving around town happily, satisfied, listening while parked etc.
THIS IS WHEN EVENTS BECOME INTERESTING
Then months later, having what I learned about Cd players I decided to upgrade. My income increased and so did my options. I bought a pioneer deh p980bt (premier line)($650 at the time), a Pioneer prs-d5000spl mono sub amp($350) and a Audison Srx 2s (2ch)($350).
I've learned 2 IMPORTANT things from this purchase.
First Lesson Learned Mono Block Amps (Amplifiers make a big difference)
I replaced the american bass used to power my 2 x 12" eclipse's with the prs d5000 spl and I instantly realized the bass response was much faster (keeping up with music), cleaner and more powerful . And that I needed a larger capacitor , since my 1 and 2 farad caps weren't enough because the bass started cutting off at higher volumes.)
capacitor:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitors
(capacitors are for HIGH wattage systems, and are used to add instant power to the amp when the amp asks for it)(But if the the power requirements are more than the Capacitor's storage(measured in Farads), then there will be a distruption in energy flow which translates to your music cutting off. Which is why people who compete in SPL (sound pressure level) competitions don't bother with capacitors and chain multiple batteries instead)
FYI: Higher Decibels(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Decibels) require more power consumption, especially larger magnets, which also adds heat.
Pioneer Premier PRS-D5000spl:
http://www.pioneer.eu/eur/products/archive/PRS-D5000SPL/index.html
(I didn't know at the time, but: http://news.hspn.com/articles/855/1...ition-at-2006-DB-Drag-World-Finals/Page1.html)
So, be careful when purchasing mono block amps. Many claim high watts, but aren't, so look for the CEA rating, and if it doesn't have one, and you really want to buy it, then check the aesthetics. Because if it doesn't look good and doesn't have a cea rating, then why bother. Just Kidding . But choosing the right sub amp can make the difference between having the beats on cue, and your sub box playing its own music.
CEA:
http://www.ce.org/AboutCEA/default.asp
(industry authority on industry standards)
(Many major manufacturers have CEA ratings like Alpine and Pioneer)
Second Lesson Learned: CD Player (CD Player Processors are critical)
The 980bt comes with 2 very important and critical features, a 24bit Burr Brown Digital to Analog (D/A) converter and Time Alignment.
Digital to Analog:
Music in CD's are recorded digitally, 1's and 0's. CD players have processors that read the 1's and 0's and translate(convert) them to analog information. (sorry, extent of my vocabulary)
FYI: 24bit converters are superior in today's market, especially Burr Browns.(but just because it doesn't have burr brown's doesn't mean it is not up to par or even better) (I've read somewhere there are 64bit or 32bit converters in the market, I was probably thinking home audio, yes, High end Home Audio is leaps ahead of High end Car Audio)(but don't dismay,High end Car Audio goes up to $330,000(http://www.luxurylaunches.com/trans...he_worlds_most_expensive_car_audio_system.php)
Converters are critical when it comes to imaging and staging. 24 bit converters are sometimes incorporated in high end amps.
Examples of high end Audiophile grade CD players:
(around $1000 retail)(EBAY is your friend)(hint, go for power sellers)
http://www.alpinef1status.com/e/technology/challenge/index.html
http://www.caraudiomag.com/testrepo...er_dexp9_deqp9_car_audio_head_unit/index.html
http://www.mcintoshlabs.com/mcprod/...nters+&+CD+Changers&prodid=1077&product=MX406
http://www.clarion.com/us/en/produc...D/DRZ9255/us-en-product-pf_1132912142959.html
Audiophile:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Audiophile
!!!
TIME ALIGNMENT IS PENICILIN FOR CAR AUDIO
!!!!
Revelations: "Time Alignment"
So I hooked up my deck and Holy WOW! it sounds good. I am deeply satifsfied. So I drive around happily again for a couple months. Until one day, I let some installer audition my car. And the dude wasn't impressed. ??? I was puzzled .
He tried to give me advice saying stuff about what I know now as "imaging". I thought I had that already, just lean to the middle, and you got it ...
So I drove home, played with my system again. But this time, I played with my time alignment settings in the cd player .
(scroll down slowly)
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
Like neanderthals getting fire...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
I was thinking .........
...
...
...
"??? wow, what is tis I'm feeling ???"
...
...
...
hmmm, wow,
...
...
...
hmmm wow,...OMG
...
...
...
WOWOWOWOWOWOWOWOWOWOWOWO
HOLY IMAGING ?!?!?!?!?!?!?!
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
If you haven't experienced time alignment in your car, then start. Because time alignment is important in creating that imaging within musical reproduction, that is, if you are not sitting in the middle.
Up to the point before Time Alignment, Car Audio was like,....cool, like a cool girl to hang out with. But after time alignment,
... I Fell In Love...
I began to see the true potential in car audio, I never thought it could be so dynamic, which is why I was hesitant to go all out. I'm a serious Headphone Audiophile(mainly because I used to take public transport), and I was astonished with the abilities of car audio today(which is a big complement). I thought it was only boom boom, roll your windows down and look cool. Sure,... but Car Audio can be much more than that.
Every time I listened to my system, I was mesmerized, and emotionally attached to my music. If Music were the elixir of life, then my car is the fountain(to bad it guzzles gas).
By having my speakers on the dashboard, the singer was directly in front of my WINDSHIELD!!! (and super dynamic) I didn't even need to try. My system basically says "Hi, I'm over here" now.
HOLY WOW WOW
(THANKS obviously to my 980bt, Boston Acoustics GT and Audison for my front stage)
I immediately considered buying jewelry for my new found love. I started looking at that expensive 3way at my local audio shop.
And,....
I told her I LOVE HER with a 3way DLS Ultimate.
HAHAHHAHAHAHA
And it sounded Beautiful... Extremely Dynamic. But I knew it can be better.
So I experimented with kick panels, morel and an 8ch A/D/S p850.2 amp. And WOW,... It sounded like a home system.
Cont. part 2
Personal Note:
You don't have to be a so called "audiophile" to know music. And you don't need a lot of money to be apart it. Because the truth is we are all audiophiles.
And from one audiophile to another, don't let the talk of pricey audio equipment get you down. Because its not the equipment that makes the song, it is the gift of hearing. I had a $400 system and I was completely happy.
But if you can, go the extra step with a good CD player with time alignment(because a good cd player can make normal speakers sound better). And keep on till you get a subwoofer going. And when shopping for equipment make sure to compare with internet prices. Which one is best for you is well,.... Your Journey.