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An abbreviated install log of my own car :)

74K views 175 replies 82 participants last post by  mumbles 
#1 ·
well, its acutally been a few weeks since i finished the installation on my own car, but with the crazy work schedule, i havent had any chance to organize the pics i took and upload them.

With the G35 out of the way, i finally got a chance to sit down, relax a bit, and comb through the pics and start to put together an install log. One thing that immediately became apparent was that i am apparently much less patient at taking pics of my own car's install than the last time around haha, as a result, this is going to be a pretty abbreviated install log, compared to many similar logs posted by other DIyers.

so anyway, lets get started...

Goals:

1. achieve a decent level of sound quality (than previous system)

2. keep everything hidden completely under the floor

3. throw in aspects of my skillset into the install so i can demonstrated to potential clients what certain things can look like (i.e. wiring neatly through grommits, routed plexi, led edge lit plexi, etc etc)
-------------------------

okay, i guess before i go into the install, a little bit about the vehicle?

its a 2005 subaru legacy 2.5GT wagon...with some mods. here is a list and the most recent pics of i have of it:

KN intake
Cobb Pulley
Perrin turbo inlet hose
Perrin TMIC
760cc injectors
Walbro pump
aquamist methanol injection
18G turbo at 20psi w/meth
flex UP
Cobb DP
Crucial P/P exhusat manifold
BC Racing BR coilovers
Tranny Cooler
crossdrilled/slotted rotors
magnaflow exhuast with porsche 911 style tips
20 Tint
AEM UEGO wideband
autometer boost guage
accessport with custom tdc/harmann map
GFB BOV at 50/50
Kosei K3 18x7.5
General Exclaim 225 40 18
Debadged with L7 badge ont he back i made
mesh grille
cleared headlights
4500 HIDs
engine cover and bracket delete
urathane control arm bushings
two large cracks in the windshield curtesey of cali highways lol
all told about 400hp/450tq at crank, 300-325 awhp depending on mustang or dynoject

may have mised a few things here and there













 
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#90 · (Edited)
So awesome to see someone else doing a Subie Wagon!

On the front weather tech floor mats, did you cut them to fit under the kicks?

What is the model # of the Denford Cd player? I've never really seen one before.

*edit* I figured out the Zapco/Audio Control thing... DUH... brain fart

I have enjoyed all your posts Bing.. awesome stuff. Always soo clean & straight forward.

Hoping I can start a log next month on my WRX Wagon.

Rob
2004 WRX Wagon
 
#92 ·
its hte 8250...one of two i think denon made RF units back in the day, the other being the slightly cheaper, lower pre-amp output 8150.

as far as going to the top of the scales without clipping, most of the units in the same field should be able to do that, such as the cd700, the z1, 9255, c90/901...i think even the cheaper cd45Z can pull it off :)

its nothing that special i would say, i chose it mainly beucase one, all i needed was a clean deck with no features, and two, it matched well with the dash :)
 
#93 ·
I was just reading the manual for the Zapco DSP6... interesting piece... I have been so stuck in PXA-Land for the last 3 years... I missed it...

So in your set up, you are going Symbolink back to the DSP6, converting to RCA for input? then reconverting back to RCA after the DSP6? So you have 6 of the link-to-RCA converters? Am I getting that right? I understand the noise rejection/output level benefit..

Have you tried the DSP-SL controler? I know you don't have a place for it in the LGT.. I was just curious how it functions...

Rob
2004 WRX Wagon
 
#96 ·
you are looking at, i am assuming, the dsp6 manual off the website, that is way outdated, and shows the old version dsp6. the current version has 3 simblink inputs and 3 outputs, no rca level anymore :)

so its simblink in, (the 8250 has the same style output jack), and simblink to rca output to amps

b
 
#94 ·
Absolutely amazing build. Can't believe I have missed it up until now. I have always considered myself a little odd, Fast 4-doors trump fast 2-doors in my book, and fast wagons trump both :D (fast trucks are right up there too though, but thats besides the point lol.) Love the car and love the build for sure. Simply overall yet done absolutely perfect. Giving me plenty of ideas for my truck some day.

Top notch build just like all your others. Truely inspirational :D
 
#98 ·
Really great, clean install.

I have an '05 Legacy GT Vagoon myself and am about to take on the audio system. What JDM kit did you use, the navi or the single din (both look the same to me on their website). Also, how difficult was it to take out the cubby?
Finally, did you use a forward and reverse harness for the install to keep the OEM HU installed?

Thanks for the ideas.
 
#103 ·
Nice work my friend. I'm curious as to how you work with plexiglass. What do you use to cut it? A router? If so what rpm and bit type if it matters. I'm also curious as to what your method of getting your logo on the plexi is as well.

Finally I'm wondering what the deal is with the kicks. They just have an opening on the back and vent straight into the carpet like that? Do they have much midbass output and power handling capability in that configuration? Thanks!
 
#104 ·
1. i used to use router and plexi bit, now i hate the smell and debris so i just have my local plastic shop route to match a jig i give htem.

2. i always vent kicks, everyone of my installs, provides less midbass coloration. as for midbass and powerhandling :) i have 250 per side, and as much as 500 per side in some installs, and midbass is pretty good :) as anyone who has heard my car can atest to. much better than if you just seal it fully, cuase unless you can build a huge kick, the coloration that it adds, and the resuling need to turn it down, really makes it hard to tune and reduce your overall midbass impact IMO
 
#106 ·
When you say you "vent all your kicks," are you talking into the cavity behind the kick panel or just a hole in the back of the fiberglass directly into the carpet?

I seem to remember (in some of your installs) you left the back of the kick open, but I don't remember seeing anything "vented" into the cavity behind them. And since I have to leave for work in a few, I don't have time to double check.

Thanks,

Jay
 
#108 ·
im going to try to replicate those tweeter pods, thanks for the ideas! so do yo feel the location is good sonic wise?
 
#117 ·
how do you like this setup compared to your old DLS front stage? is that the optimal location for the tweeters in the LGT?

im racking my head on what i want to do to my LGT, i dont have the space really (MT) to put big kicks. Was thinking of using the door (for the mids) location and angling them as much as possible...
 
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