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Cheap, adjustable, easily replaceable tweeter pods

332K views 347 replies 166 participants last post by  ScaryfatkidGT 
#1 · (Edited)
Do you buy tweeters and swap out tweeters regularly? Do you want a way to be able to easily mount tweeters on-axis and make them look nice? Do you want to mount tweeters up on your A-pillars to avoid as many diffracting surfaces as possible?

If you answered yes to any one of these questions, I have just the solution for you!! My friend Glenn (GLN305), has come up with a very inexpensive solution for tweeter mounting that allows for easy swapping out of tweeters, makes it easy to mount tweeters on-axis, provides a certain degree of adjustability, and makes the mounting look nice. Glenn was kind enough to install a pair of Scanspeak Illuminator 2004-6020 tweeters in the A-pillars of my Mazdaspeed 3 and so I took pictures so that I could share his very innovative design with others on the forum.

Parts: (1) 2 x PVC end caps (find ones that fit your tweeters, the ones in the picture are 1.5" diameter; some tweeters may need bigger end caps), (2) threaded pipes (in Home Depot these are called steel nipples. Yes, the jokes about nuts and nipples are endless) these are threaded and used in lamps to thread the power cord through), (3) hex nuts, a (4) a can of bed liner to create texture, and (5) optionally, a can of spray paint in a color that matches your car.
 
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#79 ·
I have tried a 4" I.D. PVC elbow with a 5.25" mid when I was experimenting with rear fill. I would estimate the length of the PVC pipe, taking into account the elbow, maybe 10". I had the mids bandpassed and the elbows placed on my rear deck. Didn't like the sound at all, they needed more room to "breathe". Might not be as much of an issue with a 3" driver which isn't handling frequencies as low though. Another option may be instead of closing the other end of the PVC pipe, funneling it inside your dash or A-pillar to effectively make it an IB setup.

You might want to check threads from CaptainObvious ... he has had some good experiences with PVC pipes and small drivers.
 
#81 ·
sorry if i sound retarded....but i it's just press fit in right?...nothing to really secure it besides pressure?
 
#84 ·
You mean securing the tweeter inside the pod? If the tweeter doesn't fit snug, use some electrical tape or the cloth side of a velcro strip arounnd the tweeter (or the inside of the pod). Also, if you pull any slack from the speaker wire to the tweeter, it will prevent the tweeter from moving as well.
 
#83 ·
so what kind of improvements in sound did u hear?

id imagine they woul dbe pretty strong on axis like this...
 
#85 ·
The stage was quite nice. The best thing is to try different angles until you find one that works best and then use that. The pods can also be used in other locations besides the A-pillars. For example, you can use the pods with sail panels as well.
 
#86 ·
I got mine done today.

First, I made some rings from a cheap cutting board, using a 2.5'' and a 1.75'' hole saw, and attached my tweeters to them with some small allen head screws.




I drilled three countersunk holes in the side of each cap, and used those holes to drill pilot holes in the rings.


The screws that hold the rings in place are some spare pickguard screws from a guitar project from a while back.


A few coats of semi-gloss black, and in they go.




 
#92 ·
It wouldn't be hard to glue them in if you wanted to... someone posted some glue that is supposed to work really well with plastic that just came out recently - if you have plastic bodies. I made pods like this several years ago but used hole saws, a dremel and a router to make them out of oak... they worked great for a two way. Not all tweeters are going to sound good on axis and up top - as someone mentioned, in your face. You may want to expirement with your tweeters prior to cutting the cups and try facing them directly toward each other, slightly off axis and on axis before locking them in.

Nice time saver going with the cup - another idea straight out of a twisted mind like mine (only better). I was actually looking at PVC angled tubes that were 6" wide and toying with mounting mids in them until I came to my senses!

Ultimately, I ended up going three way though and the mid and tweeter need to be near each other for good imaging in a three way. Thankfully a friend shared a little info with me and I'll have some new options here soon that I expect to yield great results.

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#95 ·
This is going to sound like a really stupid question but:

How are the pods mounted to the actual a-pillar?

I realize the threaded pole extends into the a-pillar and I figured you guys were just putting another nut on the end, but in the original poster's pictures it looks like the threaded poles were also covered in bedliner/spray paint, which I'm assuming would make it impossible to thread a washer on?
 
#128 ·
No - the threaded poles are not covered with bedliner. If they were, they washers would not go one. Use masking tape etc. Glenn is very skilled with bedliner so he didn't get any on the threads. The threaded nipples go through the A-pillar and are secured by a washer to the A pillar. Glenn has mounted large format 4" tweeters this way.
 
#98 ·
So are the majority of you guys aiming the driver's side pod at the driver and the passenger side at the passenger, or "cross-firing" them so to speak?

Also, some HAS to have tried running two pods per side by now?

This would be a sweet way of mounting a TB W3 bamboo full range driver on axis, and I'm wondering how it would look to run a pair on each side, (one driver pointed at the closest listener and one cross firing to the other listener).
 
#100 ·
This is a great time saver for sure! A pat on the back needs to be given to Glen for thinking with an open and creative mind. Also good job to all that posted pics of thier results with this method.
Anthony
 
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