Seeing those BMW's with 8" speakers under the seat left me wondering if it would be feasible to install horns under the dash and midbass under the seats. Would they be able to play up to 700Hz or 800Hz and still sound good?
As we know, in the past folks have installed midbass in the rear quarter panels with good results so that leads me to believe it's not necessary to have them in the kick panels or doors. But under the seats? I'm not so sure.
How would something like these do under a seat and if they would be ok what size box would I need? They would be going under the seats in a chevy 2500HD so the truck it's self is very wide.
I am just not sure how big the box should be for 6.5's never built one.. LoL Is there TS specs any where online for these? I know it's a long shot but I have not been able to find any..
I think you should just give it to me. Those things are crap! Hahaha! Just kidding man. Theyd work for IB use. They should work well on the doors. The box requirement according to Bass Box Pro is about 1.063 cu. ft. so its kinda big. Try aperiodic for that. I have a 4incher that id wanna use someday. Too bad the tweeters are out of reach.
It depends on how big of an enclosure you can fit. 1.063 is a big enclosure. You could try targeting a box size with a qtc response of .8 then slap in an aperiodic membrane or a scan airflow resistor to bring down the box Q. I have a floor mounted midbass setup just in front of the seats in my car. I have the mids in a 0.2cuft enclosure...for most people, that enclosure is quite big already. I don't know how you could make the OZ work...they are much more suitable for freeair or in large sealed enclosures. If you are going to try, start finding drivers that can work in small sealed enclosures. It's hard if you are going to use a high qts driver in a small enclosure...you will have enclosure resonance problems.
Ok would these be better then say a set of DDMB? Thats what I have in my doors now. I really don't do SQ much more SPL but I have always been a huge OZ fan, trying to find a way to fit them in, if I have to grab another pair I can if they would "louder" but cleaner then my DD's I have now.
It's not a good idea to mix mids right like DD's in the door and the OZ's some where else right, I should stick with one brand all OZ or DD correct or is that not true?
Found this old thread and I have a question...
Since I have some door rattles (no matter how much dynamat I've been used!. I lower my mids up to 70's, and when play loud I allways get some kind of rattles), I have been thinking about put a mid bass driver down passenger seat (a good one, maybe a shallow 10" elate) in a sealed enclosure.
This way I could free some low freqs from my doors and avoid those anoying rattles.
My question is: Would this work if I run just one driver in mono, bandpass crossed from 70 to 100 hz? (or need a stereo signal and L/R drivers to get good results?
Found this old thread and I have a question...
Since I have some door rattles (no matter how much dynamat I've been used!. I lower my mids up to 70's, and when play loud I allways get some kind of rattles), I have been thinking about put a mid bass driver down passenger seat (a good one, maybe a shallow 10" elate) in a sealed enclosure.
This way I could free some low freqs from my doors and avoid those anoying rattles.
My question is: Would this work if I run just one driver in mono, bandpass crossed from 70 to 100 hz? (or need a stereo signal and L/R drivers to get good results?
Actually great point. I am using this as a starting point since its what I figured they were previously setup as. I am definitely going to try some options.
Nope, the 3 circle holes I have now are like less than 2 inches each all around the bottom of the speaker magnet area, then the enclosure and speaker cover it up from there. So I think its just enough for it to breathe and should still be quiet.
Crossing from 70-100 is only a 30hz span. It will make sound yes but sound good??? That will be tough.
With a 1st order filter on both sides yeah maybe with a steeper slope the majority of what you hear will be delayed roll off and out of time with the 30hz span. By itself no that bad when when you have speakers on both sides of the crossover it won't sound smooth. It will get loud and full the null just fine but smoothness will be a tough go to say the least.
Now get the under seat box to not have a HPF and could work very nice . Use the same exact crossover as sub and play them both to 100 and should be nice. Use eq to tame any peaks individually and can be very good
Well since you guys resurrected this old thread, I'll chime in with my 2 pennies worth. I heard Scott Buwaldas BMW 135 at Knowledgefest a couple of months back. He's running L8SE's from 45-250Hz in the stock locations, but opened up to the outside, like AudioNutz's 10's. This car sounded phenomenal.
Well since you guys resurrected this old thread, I'll chime in with my 2 pennies worth. I heard Scott Buwaldas BMW 135 at Knowledgefest a couple of months back. He's running L8SE's from 45-250Hz in the stock locations, but opened up to the outside, like AudioNutz's 10's. This car sounded phenomenal.
I listen to a lot of rock and metal…for quick double-bass kind of stuff…nothing has been better.
I have them disconnected at the moment due to a limit in movement to the drivers seat…so that box is out at the moment pending some adjustments.
They are powered via the sub channel of a JL 900/5…so they see 250rms each.
Boxes are .2 cubes each sealed…punchy, accurate and keep the impact right where I want it.
Will be adding a TC Sound TC1000 15 for the sub so I haven't quite finished the tuning…by they'll be crossed somewhere around 40hz-150hz…basically to do the 'heavy lifting' in the mid-bass region.
Malibu ski boat has a Solo Baric under the helm, right at my feet.
The 328 comes with 8's under the seat but they're used as little baby subs and don't sound that good. Replaced them with Jehnerts and added a 12" to the trunk. Certainly the bass improved but not the midbass. Then I added the GB40. Holy cow!
Looked for a similar approach on the TR8. Baffled the floor pan under the seats and added 10" shallows. Running them up around 125hz. Very nice.
Said to myself "OK, so that worked" while looking at the XC90. Wound up removing the middle row seats entirely and installing two GB12D4's down firing into the footwells.
I've done midbasses under the seat quite a few times.
At low frequencies, our perception of location is based on phase. Due to that, you'll want the midbasses to be as wide as possible.
I like doing bandpass boxes. Here's why:
Our car is about six feet wide. With a conventional box under the seat, we can separate the drivers by about four feet. If you go with a bandpass box, you can put the ports on the side. That allows you to separate the two sources by about five feet. That widens the stage by 25%. (From four feet to five feet.)
I've used 10" subwoofers under the seats before with ok results (was new to this and didn't have them aimed properly, enclosure way too small, etc.
My most favorite setups so far though, were a pair of Diamond CM3 8" subwoofers mounted under the dash of a Dodge Ram, and then this 2005 Subaru Outback we have come with the factory optional underseat sub. While that 6.5" sucks at bass, the midbass in the car is incredible!!! I mean, real, true, kick you in the chest stuff.
The Ram with those 8" subs was beyond realistic. Just effortless with plucks and kicks, easy to tune, and sounded so natural. Paired with Diamond Hex 5.25" woofers, was the first time I, "felt" the guitar on Van Halen's Eruption. Nirvana's Lithium, that intro would make you giggle like a kid. But then toss in Fanfare For the Common Man or Toccata and Fugue, and it was like a concert hall.
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