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blk4est
04-12-2007, 04:28 PM
I just picked up my first router and was wondering now that I have this can I use a straight edge and a router to make my straight cuts through 3/4" Mdf. I just thought if I could keep it to one saw and if I had the right technique why buy jig saw, circular saw if I'm barely going to use it. Any input how you can do this accurately would be appreciated.

Daniel

60ndown
04-12-2007, 04:35 PM
attach (clamps or screw) a straight piece of wood or metal to the material you want to cut and use that as a guide for your router.

khail19
04-12-2007, 04:51 PM
I just picked up my first router and was wondering now that I have this can I use a straight edge and a router to make my straight cuts through 3/4" Mdf. I just thought if I could keep it to one saw and if I had the right technique why buy jig saw, circular saw if I'm barely going to use it. Any input how you can do this accurately would be appreciated.

Daniel

It's possible with a router, but doing it all in one pass is not recommended. I usually do 3 passes with 3/4" MDF when I'm cutting circles. A circular saw or tablesaw is faster, easier, and creates much less dust. Router bits aren't cheap either, and MDF is hell on router bits.

blk4est
04-13-2007, 12:01 PM
I was wondering if it was worth buying another saw as I'm not sure how much I will use it and if getting by with a router is feasible.

Daniel

STI<>GTO
04-13-2007, 12:12 PM
Do you already have a jigsaw? If so, use that to rough cut, within ~ 1/8" of your cut line. Then use a template or clamp a guide to the piece you want to cut, and finish it off. Your bits will last longer this way. And khail is right, you are going to create lots of dust, better get you a good respirator.

Check craigslist for a used tablesaw. Get something cheap for now, until you learn how to operate it safely. You can get a new Ryobi for $100 at HD, not a great saw, but a good start, and it won't take up half of your garage.

chuyler1
04-13-2007, 12:18 PM
Don't waste money on a cheap table saw. You will find out in minutes that it can't make a straight/square cut and it isn't big enough for cutting subwoofer box sized pieces. Instead, get a decent circular saw and a guide system.

STI<>GTO
04-13-2007, 12:24 PM
Don't waste money on a cheap table saw. You will find out in minutes that it can't make a straight/square cut

Why?

blk4est
04-13-2007, 12:24 PM
I'm leaning toward a decent circular saw, or just using a jig saw and finishing it off with my router. I just know realistically I won't be using it alot, so spending money on a couple different tools doesn't make sense to me. I have a good respirator though, being I'm a Home Inspector and spend alot of time in attics.

Daniel

geaugafletcher
04-13-2007, 01:27 PM
Why?

Questions to ask about your table saw:

Just how flat is the table? Does it flex?
Is the fence made sturdy enough with good clamps/mounting such that it's even capable of being exactly parallel with the blade?
Is the fence perpendicular with the table?
Will the fence and all other adjustments stay in place for a reasonable length of time?
Is the motor strong enough to put a good blade through a 3/4" sheet of MDF well?
And so forth...

It's hard enough to make straight and square cuts with a circular saw and good guides. Working with inaccurate tools is agonizingly frustrating.

STI<>GTO
04-13-2007, 01:46 PM
Questions to ask about your table saw:

Just how flat is the table? Does it flex?
Is the fence made sturdy enough with good clamps/mounting such that it's even capable of being exactly parallel with the blade?
Is the fence perpendicular with the table?
Will the fence and all other adjustments stay in place for a reasonable length of time?
Is the motor strong enough to put a good blade through a 3/4" sheet of MDF well?
And so forth...

It's hard enough to make straight and square cuts with a circular saw and good guides. Working with inaccurate tools is agonizingly frustrating.

That question was directed at chuyler1. I'm well aware of what makes a good tablesaw, I wanted him to explain why they cannot cut a straight line, as he so matter-of-factly stated. Maybe in his experience. However, spending a little bit of time dialing a cheap saw in can net good results. I used that same cheap Ryobi for about a year, and didn't have any trouble squaring panels up. I spent about 30 minutes making an extension table to the right of the blade to increase the cutting capacity up to 25", and that saw served me well while I had it.

Rick

geaugafletcher
04-13-2007, 02:11 PM
Gotcha! :)

Which cheap Ryobi did you have? Home Despot has several...and if there's one that acutally works...

STI<>GTO
04-13-2007, 02:20 PM
The cheapest benchtop model. About $100. Certainly not a fantastic saw, but it got me by for a while.

chuyler1
04-13-2007, 04:02 PM
For a while. Which means you are ready to move on right? The Craftsman I have has the worst fence ever. It is only good for cutting about 11" wide pieces and even then it doesn't lock down straight. The parallel feeder/guide (not sure what you call it) is only good for very small pieces also because it doesn't stay flat in its guide slot unless the entire guide is on the table. I have used better saws before and I was very disapointed in how utterly useless my saw was at making precision cuts. I use my router for anything I need to be precise and I save the table saw for quick cuts that don't have to be perfect.

STI<>GTO
04-13-2007, 05:46 PM
For a while. Which means you are ready to move on right? The Craftsman I have has the worst fence ever. It is only good for cutting about 11" wide pieces and even then it doesn't lock down straight. The parallel feeder/guide (not sure what you call it) is only good for very small pieces also because it doesn't stay flat in its guide slot unless the entire guide is on the table. I have used better saws before and I was very disapointed in how utterly useless my saw was at making precision cuts. I use my router for anything I need to be precise and I save the table saw for quick cuts that don't have to be perfect.

I moved on a long time ago.... But not because it couldn't cut a straight line. Cutting 8/4 walnut takes a little more power than a benchtop model.

Your first car didn't do everything just right did it? What about your first stereo purchase? First girlfriend? My point is, just because it's not perfect doesn't mean it's not a good start. Making absolute statements, that people may take as fact, don't do any good if it's your opinion. Spend some time cleaning and aligning your saw, get a decent blade, and give it a shot again. You may be surprised.

khail19
04-13-2007, 06:08 PM
I have a cheapy Craftsman in my shed, probably similar to chuyler1's. It sucks, just as he described. Fence is worthless, and even the motor is very weak. It's been cleaned, aligned, and the blade replaced, but it still sucks. I've played with the Ryobi ones at Home Depot and the fence is much nicer. I have no idea how strong it is though. I'm now using my Dad's old saw, I have no idea what brand it is but it is nice. Fence is nice and straight (and adjustable), it goes out to 24" and the motor has never slowed down through MDF.

I do agree with Rick about making absolute statements though.

biggerrigger
04-14-2007, 06:15 AM
Ditto on the rip it first then tru it up with the router. I would not try and rip with the router as the bits are not designed for this. A better type bit for ripping would be a spiral type bit like a rotozip bit as this is designed to remove the waste from the kerf not keep spinning around in the waste material causing added friction and burning up the bits. For a spiral type bit to fit your router that will do the job and is cheap check Harbor Freight for there 1/4in carbide double ended end mill. IIRC I paid around $6.00 for this bit and have used it quite a lot. and its double ended so when you dull one end just flip it over and use the other end. And its designed for bottom cutting so you can make plunges with it.
Aaron

chuyler1
04-16-2007, 01:53 PM
I have a cheapy Craftsman in my shed, probably similar to chuyler1's. It sucks, just as he described. Fence is worthless, and even the motor is very weak. It's been cleaned, aligned, and the blade replaced, but it still sucks. I've played with the Ryobi ones at Home Depot and the fence is much nicer. I have no idea how strong it is though. I'm now using my Dad's old saw, I have no idea what brand it is but it is nice. Fence is nice and straight (and adjustable), it goes out to 24" and the motor has never slowed down through MDF.

I do agree with Rick about making absolute statements though.
Ok...so khail19 and I agree, if you are going to buy a cheapy, make sure it isn't a craftsman. I can't speak for the Ryobi since I don't own one but I do have a Ryobi router and jig saw. The router is great for my needs but the jig saw doesn't hold a 90 degree angle for more than 15 seconds. Oh well...it was cheap and I don't use it for precision so it is fine for me.

tdicola
04-16-2007, 03:30 PM
Would a nice jigsaw and smaller trim router be sufficient for basic cabinet construction? Bosch makes a nice jigsaw (http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-1590EVSK-6-4-Handle-Jigsaw/dp/B0001X21RG/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1/102-6115108-9478524?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1176754048&sr=8-1) and trim router (http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-PR20EVSK-Horsepower-Variable-Router/dp/B000ANQHTA/ref=pd_bbs_1/102-6115108-9478524?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1176753956&sr=8-1) that look like they would do the trick, the jigsaw for rough cuts and the router to smooth out edges. I don't have a lot of space for construction (just a back porch), and dust & noise are a concern for me too.