Truck bed coating as deadener?

[HondAudio]

A guy at an audio shop [a fairly good one, I might add] told me that he sometimes uses spray-on truck bed liner to deaden doors instead of messing around with mat materials. Is this a good idea? Will it have any deadening properties? Will it add a lot of weight?

To be specific, I found that Dupli-Color makes a spray that isn't too expensive and might do the job.

:confused:

[02bluesuperroo]

A guy at an audio shop [a fairly good one, I might add] told me that he sometimes uses spray-on truck bed liner to deaden doors instead of messing around with mat materials. Is this a good idea? Will it have any deadening properties? Will it add a lot of weight?

To be specific, I found that Dupli-Color makes a spray that isn't too expensive and might do the job.

:confused:

I've used the duplicolor stuff on my trunk floor in my WRX. The cans are cheap, but you would need to spend as much as you would on any other liquid deadener on about 25 cans for it to be comparable to the weight of one layer of RAAMmat or on other liquid deadeners.

Edit: I didn't use the duplicolor stuff, I used a more generic "truck liner / sound deadener" spary from Autozone. I was actually supposed to be sound deadener, unlike the duplicolor.

[tyroneshoes]

Better off getting the cascade spray on deadener PE sells. Works pretty well in my experience and not much more money.

I use spray on bedliner inside my sealed box to seal it well but for deadening, might as well do it right.

[bchandler]

What about spraying the outside of the fenders (up under the car) to further deaden the panels? I know I've heard of this done with great results, but don't remember if it was with bed liner or real deadener... anyone know? Thinking about doing this myself.

[AzGrower]

Better off getting the cascade spray on deadener PE sells.

exactly my thoughts as well

[internecine]

so its really better? you have done tests that show that using somthing that says deadener on it works better than spray on liner? hmm, lets see this data. or are you just talking out of your ass.

[HondAudio]

The Cascade stuff is ~15 per can and the Dupli-Color is ~10 per can. It might be worth it to get the dedicated stuff... more research is needed.

Keep those replies coming, people. :)

[02bluesuperroo]

so its really better? you have done tests that show that using somthing that says deadener on it works better than spray on liner? hmm, lets see this data. or are you just talking out of your ass.

This better not be aimed at me? :confused:

Both of them are regular old spary on bed liner. I have not used the duplicolor as a deadener. I have used it on other things. I have also used 3m spray bed liner on the roof rack for my fj. I used the third kind they sell at autozone in an attempt at actually using it as a deadener. It is the only one that was advertised as a deadener. They were all the same thing. A spary on liquid slightly thicker than paint, with a little bit of texture grit type crap in it. Your comments are weak and totally un-helpful. :rolleyes:

[$NotEnough$]

Better off getting the cascade spray on deadener PE sells.

Ummm....this might be a dumb question but what does PE stand for?

BTW, I have heard that the paint on stuff eD sells is good? Anybody else have an opinion?

[demon2091tb]

Better off getting the cascade spray on deadener PE sells.

x bla bla, thats stuff is good, smells like a mofo when you put it on but talk about being dead. Used it inside of my FG subbox, sounds solid as all be it now, with a combination of 1/8" of Quiet Kote, layer of ensolite, 3/4" layer of Acoustic eggshell foam.

Definently going to be using the Quiet Kote inside my HT towers when the build gets going.

PE is parts express. www.partsexpress.com DIY website of raw drivers/materials/etc, anything you can think of for electronics...

[internecine]

This better not be aimed at me? :confused:

Both of them are regular old spary on bed liner. I have not used the duplicolor as a deadener. I have used it on other things. I have also used 3m spray bed liner on the roof rack for my fj. I used the third kind they sell at autozone in an attempt at actually using it as a deadener. It is the only one that was advertised as a deadener. They were all the same thing. A spary on liquid slightly thicker than paint, with a little bit of texture grit type crap in it. Your comments are weak and totally un-helpful. :rolleyes:

not you

[HondAudio]

bumpitybump

[$NotEnough$]

x bla bla, thats stuff is good, smells like a mofo when you put it on but talk about being dead. Used it inside of my FG subbox, sounds solid as all be it now, with a combination of 1/8" of Quiet Kote, layer of ensolite, 3/4" layer of Acoustic eggshell foam.

Definently going to be using the Quiet Kote inside my HT towers when the build gets going.

PE is parts express. www.partsexpress.com DIY website of raw drivers/materials/etc, anything you can think of for electronics...

Oh, thanks! lol, I already know about Parts Express.

[Kuztimrodder]

What about spraying the outside of the fenders (up under the car) to further deaden the panels? I know I've heard of this done with great results, but don't remember if it was with bed liner or real deadener... anyone know? Thinking about doing this myself.

That's where undercaoting comes in, preferably rubberized. Something to realize about bed coating especially vs rubberized undercaoting is that undercoating adheres much better with less prep work. Allow me to elaborate. Say you want to do the insides of your doors. You want to clean them of dust and or oils. It's not always easy to reach inside the door to do this. Undercoating will adhere pretty well to an inner door that is just wiped clean with a cleaner(or spray clean with something like carb and choke cleaner...dont worry, it'll run out the drain holes and wont hurt the paint...it also drys quickly). Bed coating doesn't do so well here. For it to adhere its best you would need to also scuff with scotchbrite or whatever abrasive you prefer. Again, not so easy, and even harder than cleaning. I dont know if bed coating is better than rubberized undercoating but it has always worked well for me inside doors. A big reason for this is that most doors have a side impact/stiffener glued to the outer door skin witch aids in resonance reduction. The undercoating is just enough to take this a step further and adds mass and density to the skin thus giving it that deadened "thud". When I use rubberized undercoating, I do 3 medium/heavy layers. I would do the same if using bed coating.

[bchandler]

Thanks for the tips. If I were to spray this under my fenders, though, I would have a fat chance of getting the metal as clean as new.

Does the rubberized undercoating work well for you?

[Kuztimrodder]

Thanks for the tips. If I were to spray this under my fenders, though, I would have a fat chance of getting the metal as clean as new.

Does the rubberized undercoating work well for you?

You dont really want anything hard or brittle under your fenders if you are going to drive the car at all (I mention this because I've done show cars with painted fender wells but those cars are never driven more than show area cruising). It will chip, crack, and fall off. Worse, if it just chips but stays, you will have a starting point for rust if that part is metal. The rubbery rubberized undercoat deflects most things that would chip something more brittle including paint. It's also alot cheaper. I have also used it inside enclosures with good results.

I've had great luck and saved some money using it inside doors. I wouldn't recommend it for inner doors but I do think it's possible to get good results. The greatest concern with inner doors is sealing. Though filler panels are used to seal large holes, butyl sound deadening sheet/mat seals all of the small holes while doing it's intended purpose of deadening. Two birds, one stone. It also adds more rigidity to the entire door.

[demon2091tb]

Just wanted to say that as far as putting it in fender wells, i think it would work great, imo. The Cascade material when dried is like a semi squishy rubber type compound, don't think it would chip etc like paint would.

Can is about $20 or so and i used a can-1/2 on my sub box alone, definite overkill but well worth it. Not sure how many i will need but thinking 4 total for the Towers i'm building, 2 per tower, 1 per enclosure airspace.

[tyroneshoes]

so its really better? you have done tests that show that using somthing that says deadener on it works better than spray on liner? hmm, lets see this data. or are you just talking out of your ass.

Ive used spray on bedliner to finish enclosures and amp racks and used the left over for some deadening. Ive also used the cascade but only for deadening. I believe theres pics of me doing this if you search.

The bedliner dries hard but light and somewhat brittle while the cascade dries a more rubberized heavy finish.

As far as the data, I do present this equation I stumbled upon while doing my longitudinal research:

x=(cascade/bedliner)y(your mother's a prostitute)3

Ive decided your mother is a prostitute and the spray on cascade would be a better sound deadener than bedliner.

[HondAudio]

I bought a can of the rubberized Dupli-Color "sound deadener" today. $5.99 at Autozone. Kinda messy, very smelly even hours after it's supposed to be dry. In a few days I need to sit inside my xB so I can spray into the tailgate without doing it over my head :o I'm still going to stuff seat cushion foam in there.

WHY IS SOUND DEADENING SO HARD :mad:

[Rudeboy]

Spray on bed liner will add mass and therefore have some beneficial effect, but no where near as much as a dedicated sound deadener. The better liquids not only are fortified with heavy fillers, they also cure to the rubber like consistency noted by others which contributes a vibration damping mechanism completely different than mass loading.

I'd also suggest avoiding rattle cans for anything but very small sound deadening projects. You need to build up a mm or two and that is going to take several coats. Much less expensive to use a compressor and schutz gun or just a brush if you don't have adequate spraying gear.

The fact that you need multiple layers make mats easier for a lot of people. Liquids need drying time between coats so the entire process can take a considerable time. Then you want to wait another 24 hours for things to set up before you re-assemble the car. Mats are ready to go as soon as they are applied. Liquids will be somewhat less effective per comparable unit of mass or thickness since they don't have a constraining layer that contributes to the effectiveness of foil clad mats.

ED's liquid eDead formulas are both fairly old technology that has been passed by. Cascade, Second Skin and LizardSkin offer more advanced products. The new version of Second Skin Spectrum is quite impressive. Liquid eDead may have the cheapest price per liquid unit, but it has a higher water content than the others making it a relatively poor value - more expensive than the others when you compare cured results.

Several of these products claim to be effective when used as undercoating. I have no information about their durability when used this way. I have had good results using them on the exterior of wheel wells when covered by a plastic liner.