Non-Hardening modeling clay looks melted and oily??

[mikey7182]

So after my install about 2 months ago, I sold the SPX-17PROs and the amp I had, and I had used some non-hardening modeling clay on my door pods. I think I got it at a craft store. Anyway, I am preparing for a new install, and I pulled the door panels off and the modeling clay that was left on the pods has an almost oily texture and feels partially melted. Granted I am in AZ, but it has only been there for a month or two and it hasn't really gotten that hot yet. Any idea what causes this, and is there something I can use in place of the clay that won't react this way to the heat? I don't want this crap melting all over my new MBQ QSDs!

[npdang]

What kind of clay are you using?

[mikey7182]

I don't remember the brand, but it is off-white, and came in a small brick sort of package, and was partially cut into 4 sections. Overall size was about 4"x2"x2" and I bought it at Michael's crafts. It said "non-hardening modeling clay" on it, but other than that, I don't recall the brand. I can find out I suppose. Is there a brand you'd suggest I use in case it isn't the one I used last time?

[npdang]

Let me check, because I think I know which one you are talking about and that is NOT the one I use.

I've been thinking of using rubber sheets and sandwiching them between the mdf/sheet metal, and between the speaker/mdf. Should help, and not have to worry like the clay.

[unpredictableacts]

I hate clay being used, especialy if you are the reciever of a pair that was used with clay.......silicon comes off alot of time in one peel.

[bobdole369]

The vertical lines in the clay identify it as "Sculpey" brand non-hardening modeling clay. My wife and I go to Michaels all the time. I was considering just that as the type of clay to use for my new 6 1/2"s, but based on this, maybe I need to search around and find the right stuff.

[Lsmkenpo]

I've been using the black non hardening modeling clay from Michaels and haven't had any problems with it melting at all.

[mikey7182]

Yeah, I wouldn't recommend it based on my findings now. As far as effectiveness, I think it did a great job killing the resonance of the mid and helped seal everything off, but from a user-friendly standpoint, I will probably clean it all off and use something else.

[Thumper26]

i have a box of that same clay sitting beside me right now. I was going to use it between the mid, but then put a strip of deadener down to help seal it in there and not let it run.

other than the texture, is it still soft?

[mikey7182]

Ya, it didn't harden at all, so in that regard, it held up to its name. And if you live somewhere where it doesn't get about 80*, you'll probably be fine. I guess I just didn't think it would melt the way it did. We've only had one or two "hot" days in the last few weeks, like barely hit 90* in the middle of the day. I can only imagine what 115* will do to the stuff, so I'm glad I found it now.

[npdang]

I'm really certain you've got the wrong clay. My car sits for 9 hrs a day in the sun with 90+ degree heat all the time and the clay looks brand new after all these years.

[OgreDave]

Leave the clay in your car on a hot day and see what happens to it .. if it stays solid, then it's safe to use in your car ..

[miztahsparklez]

i used some i got at tap plastics.. seems to work fine. they come in single solid blocks.

[Rudeboy]

Originally Posted by OgreDave

Leave the clay in your car on a hot day and see what happens to it .. if it stays solid, then it's safe to use in your car ..

That's actually not quite enough. Inside the doors can get MUCH hotter than the air inside the car - especially if the car is dark or the door card is dark and gets hit by the sun. I've measured close to 180°F inside the doors in my light silver car after a few hours in the Maryland sun on a 90° day.

Since this is such a commonly reported problem, I wouldn't use it myself, but if I wanted to, I'd test it in an oven set to 200°F-220°F for 4 hours or so. If it looked OK after that, I'd be fairly confident. This wouldn't account for humidity, which may or may not be a factor.

One of the problems with using materials like these for purposes other than those intended by the manufacturer is that the formula can be changed between batches that don't effect its specified functionality but might drastically change its heat tolerance. Identifying a particular brand as suitable for this use is no guarantee that the same brand will still be suitable in a month. Test every batch.

[FoxPro5]

I use a wax-based modeling clay that stays true to form and doesn't get hard, doesn't melt (at least it hasn't yet), nor does it stick to your hands. I've used the craft store stuff for kids and this is way better.

I pay $4.50/lb here locally, but you can get it online too. http://www.yaley.com/molds/Miscellan...x_Products.htm




Just a shot of it installed. I wouldn't expect this to change after -20* to 95* F temp swings...

[HondAudio]

I live in AZ too, and I'm fairly certain that Sculpey stuff isn't what you're supposed to use. It might say "non-hardening", but it's for little crafts and figurines. I think you can put it in an oven to harden your project up when you're done, so it's probably bad for our application.

[mikey7182]

Have you had any luck with anything else?

[foamerdave]

OK I have to ask. I have heard/read a ton that saids to use clay to separate speakers from the doors ( do get the good of that) But why use something that might melt or freeze and crack? Why not just use silicone or RTV gasket maker. It is ment for much harsher invierments then in a door. I am at a loss on this one. Its cheep sets fast will stay felxabel longer the your speaker ever will.

Disclamer: One is I am a newbie. Two is there are enough of you that clay seems to work for. So it must not be all that bad. Just want to know why clay?

[npdang]

Clay has a good heft to it, and it's pretty good at dampening. I'm not familiar with those other products you mention, but I don't think silicon would do quite the same trick.

[HondAudio]

Originally Posted by mikey7182

Have you had any luck with anything else?

Haven't tried yet

[mikey7182]

One of the problems with silicone/RTV is that is is messy initially. It would have to dry completely before installing the speakers. Although the end texture is pretty good I'd have to say.

[ArcL100]

Just stack up a few layers of deadener - there will be enough elasticity there to decouple and also seal.

-aaron