Canyon Install Part1 Deadening and Components [Archive] - DIY Mobile Audio - Now with Violent Bass Air!!
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Spooky
05-13-2006, 02:08 AM
Started on the install this weekend I got the a/d/s concept tweets and Seas w18NX's in and the doors deadened for the most part. I still have to put some more damplifier on the passenger dooor skin but other thatn that I'm done.

Here are some Picys.

Door panel with damplifier
http://www.adventureidaho.net/images/deaddoor1.jpg

Door Panel with overkill closed cell foam
http://www.adventureidaho.net/images/doorfoam.jpg

Door with Damplifier
http://www.adventureidaho.net/images/Truck-door-Before.jpg

Seas W18NX-001 with 23/32" spacer
http://www.adventureidaho.net/images/LowerSpeaker.jpg

a/d/s Concept PX tweet
http://www.adventureidaho.net/images/UpperSpeaker.jpg

Everything sealed back up
http://www.adventureidaho.net/images/TruckDoorAfter.jpg

My Truck
http://www.adventureidaho.net/images/Truckalaskabasin.jpg

I'm still waiting on my W-200 to come in so I have the comps hooked up to the factory deck for now. I'm about ready to burn down the Alpine Dealer I was promised the deck at the end of April.

I'm suprised at the output I'm getting out of the Seas off the factory deck should be great once I have the Ar4150XXk hooked up and some processing.


Got the 4150XXK and the H701 in today

A bad Pic of the Amps and H701
http://www.adventureidaho.net/images/Amp.jpg

The Arc 4150 XXK installed under the passenger seat
http://www.adventureidaho.net/images/Amp4.jpg

The H701 installed under the drivers seat
http://www.adventureidaho.net/images/Amp2.jpg

The Arc was a tight fit and a had to modify a couple of brackets under the seat and relocate a plug. I was going to mount the 1500XXK under the drivers set but there is a pice of electronics under the carpet that prevents it from fitting so I'm thinking of mounting it between the 2 DIYMA 12's on the back wall when I get them in.

I've gone as far as I can go with out the head unit. Hurry up Alpine get some units shiped!
cam2Xrunner
05-13-2006, 02:22 AM
Nice work man!!

How are you getting the 2 DIYMA subs in there?
Spooky
05-13-2006, 02:37 AM
This thing has a ton of leg room for a midsize truck and a fair amount of room behind the seats when they are all the way back. They should fit in a traditional wedge style enclosure no problem. I ought to be able to get away with a 1 cu ft per driver with the seats up only a couple of clicks if any.

I wanted to do a downfiring enclosure but thats out I'd be eating the steering wheel.
This guy did one for 10's that would be bearable but the magnet width and basket shape on the DIYMA 12's make it impractical for me.

http://streetneeds.com/uploads/auser/101_1514(Medium).JPG
npdang
05-13-2006, 06:37 AM
Beautiful install. Those drivers just look amazing. How about a review on those mids when you get your amp in :D
FoxPro5
05-13-2006, 09:46 AM
Nice work man. Interested to hear your review as well. What made you decide on that tweeter location??
Spooky
05-13-2006, 03:30 PM
Cosmetics and lazyness, but mostly lazyness. It was the stock tweet location and I did not want 2 sets of tweet grills. I'm going to band aid it with some TA. thanks for the compliments.
nickgonzo
05-13-2006, 06:31 PM
I love those trucks, great job man
ocuriel
05-13-2006, 06:59 PM
Nice install. Tweets look sexy!
Spooky
05-15-2006, 02:13 AM
Cant edit the title for some reason anyone know how?
chuyler1
05-15-2006, 08:05 PM
Nice install...

...but you shouldn't use drywall/wood screws to secure your drivers. You should use something with a button head. A button head puts equal pressure on the frame over a larger surface area pulling it towards the baffle without damaging the mounting hole. A drywall/wood screw puts pressure on a small edge of the frame, can loosen over time, and if you screw them down too much you can damage the frame. If the hole isn't perfectly aligned it will pull the driver and/or baffle unevenly. Yuck.
FoxPro5
05-15-2006, 09:27 PM
Nice install...

...but you shouldn't use drywall/wood screws to secure your drivers. You should use something with a button head. A button head puts equal pressure on the frame over a larger surface area pulling it towards the baffle without damaging the mounting hole. A drywall/wood screw puts pressure on a small edge of the frame, can loosen over time, and if you screw them down too much you can damage the frame. If the hole isn't perfectly aligned it will pull the driver and/or baffle unevenly. Yuck.

:o I love my drywall screws :rolleyes:
chuyler1
05-15-2006, 10:27 PM
They will actually bend stamped metal baskets and amplifier mounting feet. If youv'e bought used equipment I'm sure you've seen feet that were beat up from the previous owner using wood screws.

Of course, if you are a true die-hard DIYer you will buy hex security screws with T-nuts.
Dangerranger
05-15-2006, 11:32 PM
Beautiful install. Those drivers just look amazing. How about a review on those mids when you get your amp in :D

^^x2

While for more critical listening I prefer the mag cone drivers, the W18NX can sound good playing nearly anything, recorded well or not. Not to say that it doesn't sound fantastic playing reference material as well ;)

Probably the best all around midbass driver I can think of :)
couchflambeau
05-16-2006, 04:20 AM
I'm with Chuyler on this one... I'd use something with a better footprint than a drywall screw....
Spooky
05-16-2006, 05:58 AM
^^x2

While for more critical listening I prefer the mag cone drivers, the W18NX can sound good playing nearly anything, recorded well or not. Not to say that it doesn't sound fantastic playing reference material as well ;)

Probably the best all around midbass driver I can think of :)

Thats why I picked the W18NX over the RW165 lotus even though it was 4 ohms. I prefer a warmer more forgiving driver. A lot of the recordings I like are less than optimal. The descriptions I've read of the w18's midbass output was also very appealing factor to me.

I can already tell its a much more accurate midbass driver than my OZ 200l's were in my last install. I absolutely loved the 200ls but the w18's do a much better job of acuratly reproducing ceartin bass lines and drums that the 200ls would struglle with at least with the moderate power I have coming from my factory deck. I'm not sure yet if the w18's will be more or less forgiving than the Oz's were. I do miss the output I had with the 8's I hope my W200 gets here soon and that output will be close.

Sorry guys the drywall screws stay. I've been using them for years(my first install was in 1990) with out any problems or adverse effects. This is not a show or competition truck just strictly for my listening pleasure.

Thanks for the compliments.