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#1 (permalink) |
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Hi all,
I have a 2005 Nissan Armada with the factory stereo. All I have done so far is add an amp and a JL 12w3. I'm in the process of figuring out the upgrades to the rest of the system. The current plan is to keep the factory head unit. I'm undecided on the front & rear speakers, but am leaning toward the Pioneer Premier TS-C720PRS up front & some coax in the rear. Wanting to replace the JL 12 with a shallow 10" under each front seat. Thinking about either a PDX 5 or a PDX 4.100 & 1.600. Anyway, my problem is this. The factory head unit has bass, mid & high level controls. There are a number of songs where the bass is too strong & overpowers the rest of the music, even when turned all the way down. Turning the bass all the way down also creates another problem - NO MID BASS!. The systems I've had in the past utilized a 1/2-DIN (12 or 15 band) EQ with sub level control. This gave me a great deal of control over the sound of the system as I had 3 different ways to control the bass output - head unit, EQ, & sub level. I'd like to have this kind of control again, but I'm not finding very many 1/2-DIN EQ's out there, and most of what I do find are only 4-band. Don't think that will give me the kind of control that I want. Is a 3Sixty the answer? I'm kinda looking at this: Clarion EQS746 but that looks like I'd need to go the 2 amp route. I'm very open to suggestions at this point. Thanks for any advice anyone can give. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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one of these are simple, cheap, and effective for remotely controlling amp levels...
http://www.installationproducts.com/...2&category=148 |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Thanks for that. Does that unit affect only sub bass, or any/all signals fed to it? The description is really short, so hard to know for sure. Would this be a solution if I go with the single PDX 5? The single amp would be my preference (easier install & cheaper than the 2 amps).
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#4 (permalink) |
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it will controll the volume of any signal that is fed through it. it goes, head unit>LC1/2>amp. so ya just hook it up to the sub channel of the H/U, and theres your sub volume control. the LC1 is rca in/out, while the LC2 is speaker level in/ rca out.
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#5 (permalink) |
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dumping sub level control was one of the best things ever done in my car.
if the gain too loud means subbass is too overwhelming, and gain too low means the midbass is anemic, that tells me you have other problems that need to be dealt with first. Two starting points for examination are the subwoofer enclosure and both crossover cutoff points/slopes used for the subwoofer and midbass. Fixing these will go a LONG way to eliminate your problem. |
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#6 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
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#7 (permalink) |
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I'll be the first to admit that there are several problems with the existing setup. As mentioned in the opening post, the system is all stock except for the addition of an amp & sub.
I have yet to upgrade the factory speakers & add an amp for those. I'm sure just doing that will help a great deal, and that's my next step (including sound deadening). Having said that, I'm sure I'll need /want some sort of equalization in the system. Stock H/U that I'm planning on keeping does not have a sub out, so I'm not sure that part referenced above will help. Please explain why you feel removing sub level control was the best thing you've done for your system? I'm probably in the minority on this site, but I don't strive for total accuracy in my car audio system. There are just some songs where I'd like a bit more bass than what's in the original recording. There are also some songs where I think the bass is a bit overwhelming & wish to trim it back a bit. That's why I'd like a sub level control. I admit, I've got a bit of boomer in me. But I'm of the different strokes for different folks bent. Different people want different things in their systems. |
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#9 (permalink) |
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this would do what you want:
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_c...hp?prod_id=446 |
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#10 (permalink) |
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where is you sub amp getting its signal from? just put one of the volume controls i listed above in line between signal and amp... it doesnt neseccarily have to be a "sub out" to work...
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#11 (permalink) |
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Sub amp is currently getting its signal straight from the head unit. It's got RCAs coming in, so I assumen they put a Line Level Converter of some sort it. I had a reputable shop do it, and I honestly don't remember.
So with the JL Audio CL-RLC, it looks like it has 2 ins, 2 outs that are not affected by the knob, & 2outs that are affected by the knob for controlling sub level. If I want to have rear speakers for the kids, and fader control, I'd have to use 2 of these, correct? (1 for fronts & sub, and 1 for rear) Also, looks like it has RCAs on the inputs, so I'd need to put RCA ends on what's coming out of the factory head unit, yes? Can someone describe how to do that? I'm guessing spkr- to outside & spkr+ to inside of the RCA? Thanks for all the input guys, I really appreciate it. |
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#12 (permalink) |
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ok so it sounds like all you need is the LC-2. it will replace the line output converter that the shop installed, since it has speaker level inputs, and rca outputs. thats what i would do, simple and cheap.
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#13 (permalink) |
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Has anyone tried the JL Audio CL-RLC? I have been looking for a good, simple line driver for my subs to hopefully get some more volume out of them...
-Matt |
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97 Nissan Maxima / Alpine CDA-9887 / DLS 6.3 Midbass & Seas 27TFFNC/G tweets - ECLIPSE XA4000 / TC Sounds TC2000 - Eclipse XA4000
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