Snaking wires through the door

[Vestax]

How to snake new wires through your door..... a question that came up quite frequently recently, so I thought I did a little tutorial on how to do it.

Disclaimer:
(Obviously, every vehicle is going to be different. The vehicle I'm using as a demo is a 6th generation Honda Accord, a somewhat average car in difficulty. Other vehicles require you to drill a hole in the inside because there's actually a double firewall before it gets to the inside. In some german cars, like VW's, will have a molex plug stopping you from running the wires in. In that case, you would have to drill a hole from there. From there you would need a skew driver or an offset drill bit. If you ever give up, you can always ghetto rig it and drill a new hole. Make sure you use a grommet and a conduit to protect the wires.)

1.) First step is to obtain tools. You can use either a pick up tool with claws at the end, or an antenna or huge zip tie with electrical tape to snake the wires. You can use a coat hangar but I tend not to because it can easily strip a wire in the door jamb. Fixing these wires will be a bitch. You can use any tool that follows this concept: a long bendable tool (not too bendable) with something to hold the wires as it goes through the door jamb.

In this tutorial, I'm using my old antenna and electrical tape.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l243/vestax05pro/Madison023.jpg

Now it would also help to have a panel popper with a long neck or a flat screw driver. So you can pop off the molex plug or door jamb off.

2.) Roll up your windows, take off your inner panel door, take off your speakers, and your kick panel (and running boards if necessary). Most cars are really easy to do but if you ever get stuck, you can always go to www.carstereohelp.com.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l243/vestax05pro/Madison025.jpg


3.) Pop off the door jambs. The one that attaches to the door, you can easily put your hand through the speaker hole, reach towards the inside, and pop that one off. The one that connects to the car, you should a panel popper to pull that one off.

http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l243/vestax05pro/Madison024.jpg

Here's the panel popper pulling on the door jamb...

http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l243/vestax05pro/Madison026.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l243/vestax05pro/Madison027.jpg

4.) Now that you have the door jamb off. You will now use your snaking tool. I like to tape the 16 awg wires so that there is no "flap" onto my snaking tool. This way, it goes through the door jamb smooth. In this demo, I'm wiring 2 pairs of 16awg through the door jamb. I don't want to wire both at the same time, because knowing my car, there are literally already 12 wires going through the door jamb. So what I do is wire only 1 set of wires through. After I have snaked it, I would tape the new wire so that it "follows the leader".

Here's what it looks like when you have successfully snaked the wire through the door jamb:

http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l243/vestax05pro/Madison028.jpg

5.) After you have snaked it through the door jamb. You now want to pull the wire all the way through until you have enough slack to leave inside the door. Then with the same concept, you should snake the wires through the hole that leads inside the cabin. You should be able to pull the wire from the inside. If you can't find it, then it's because of the disclaimer I listed above.

After you have successfully snaked the wires, put back the door jamb and start on the other side using the same methodology. ;) Easy as 1,2,3 isn't it? ... :blush:

:D

[corrado]

good post.....this should be a sticky....

[alphakenny1]

nice i actually bypassed the door jamb :(. i didn't have any tools to get through the door jamb. i guess i should go get a snaking tool.

[Pseudonym]

all i did was split the gromet the wires go through enough for my wire to fit through and sprayed some wd40 so the wire would slide through and voila. done.

then again, i have a jeep cherokee with a straight-through design between the doors and the cab.

[bobditts]

thats good info but i had to drill a hole when i ran my new wires. At the time I didnt know how to use the extra slots on the molex. damn koreans

[OldOneEye]

Great write up, a few things I would add:

Sound deaden after you run the wires, it will make it easier.

Also, if you don't have a snaking tool, you can use a coat hanger In fact in some applications it might work better (you bend it to where you want it to go, in some cars getting the wire past the double metal in the Kick panel can't be done with that snaking tool).

Juan

[Pb2theMax]

This flexible snake comes in real handy for running wires through the door jamb and other areas. It's flexible, but stiff enough to push through grommets and stuff.

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=365-546

[cvjoint]

I ran 4 pairs/door of wires through my sith gen. 3 pairs being 12 awg and the other a fat monster cable 16 awg. I used soap instead of the wd40 and unscrewed the 'door retainer' (from a lack of another definition...it's in the center of the last pic in your demo), it alows the door to open fully and access the door jamb a lot easier.

[foley316]

Another snake option is solid core wire from home depot. You can get a thicker gauge and it will hold up better when spots are tight. The only negative is to get it straight again you will need a vise.

[FoxPro5]

Nice how-to.

I've pulled two pairs or 12 awg through mine. The pain is cutting out the unused slots in the plasic plug. You need a good exacto-knife, Dremel, or a sharp drill bit. Time consuming but worth it.

[jschrauwen]

Thanks for the How-To!!

[poochieone]

excellent post indeed!
can't stress enough the need for lubricant (vaseline, silicone spray, WD40 or equivalent) for those tight spots. sometimes you may need to spray some into the passage way and onto the wire/apparatus. only apply when you are ready to snake through... makes it easier to handle before hand.

[amator]

great heads up mate ;)

[stormtrooper]

Good how to , thumbs up

[Whiterabbit]

guys, check your cabling closely. I noticed in a Tundra that ALL cabling through the door terminated inside the kickpanel to two molex plugs.

pop those off, and the grommet was maneuverable to the point where I could fish anything through the grommet by hand from speakerwire to RCA heads or more. no tools necessary.

I couldn't believe how easy it was.

[fit_tuner]

camry's are a bitch...

[apt]

the guy in this thread suggests using soap and water for lubrication as opposed to WD40. i would just to be safe.

http://g35driver.com/forums/showthread.php?t=53660&page=2&highlight=molex

[Megalomaniac]

old thread i know, but this is a great how-to. thank you :)

[WrenchGuy]

I use an old bicycle brake cable jacket it works awesome. A little vasoline on it and its a breeze!

[Thumper26]

i think suburbans are one of the easiest. they have a 3" diamater boot going from door to cabin, and only 1/2" bundle of wire. it's a big open hole on both ends. you don't even have to take the boot out. i cursed my civic after helping a friend install a stereo in his suburban.

[hibuhibu]

Spray some grease into the grommet and you can run your new wire fairly easily especially when the space is very tight.

[6APPEAL]

Great write up. I use an old wire clothes hanger. I cut the hook off and curl one end into a tight hook on the wire. I then wrap a little electrical tape around it to hold the wire in the hook. A little liquid dish washing soap works wonders.

The back doors of my truck use a molex plug in the door jamb, major PITA.
John

[OldOneEye]

Spray some grease into the grommet and you can run your new wire fairly easily especially when the space is very tight.

Not sure you want to do that. Not sure the jacketing on your wires wants to be covered perpetually in a petroleum product.

Juan

[hibuhibu]

Not sure you want to do that. Not sure the jacketing on your wires wants to be covered perpetually in a petroleum product.

Juan

Never had a problem myself, but if you are worried I guess a dishwashing soap and water will do wonder.

[Unrthdxdream]

i always just use a coat hanger... works for me.

[redcalimp5]

Thanks for the information, it's really helpful!

[Vestax]

Guys try to avoid running wires like this. (see pic below). I had another installer show me this. This was done at a local big box (not gonna say who.)

http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/3830/awesome1ie2.jpg

[Whiterabbit]

professional. http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb3/images/smilies/freaked.gif

[Vestax]

professional. http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb3/images/smilies/freaked.gif

What's even worse? The installer was trying to get power locks through the doors...... which could've been tapped inside the cabin. :confused: :confused:

[dBassHz]

professional. http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb3/images/smilies/freaked.gif

That picture makes baby Jesus sad :(

What I'd like to figure out is how to properly run power cable from the engine bay to inside the car. The boot that covers the hole has no access point. And how do you use those little grommets?

[dawgdan]

Not sure you want to do that. Not sure the jacketing on your wires wants to be covered perpetually in a petroleum product.

Juan

Never had a problem myself, but if you are worried I guess a dishwashing soap and water will do wonder.

Use lube. :) I had some free samples of some cinnamon stuff that we never used. Water soluble, so it's safe on rubber. ;)

[Thumper26]

lmao.

"honey, do you know where the KY is?"

"oh my, in the middle of the day? wait, where are you going???"

[low_end]

That picture makes baby Jesus sad :(

What I'd like to figure out is how to properly run power cable from the engine bay to inside the car. The boot that covers the hole has no access point. And how do you use those little grommets?

a punch and a drill are your best friend. i have drilled through the firewall a couple times and its a pain without the right bits. i believe ive seen someone mention a step bit set i believe it is called.

but anyway, you can use the existing wire routes as a basis as to where you can drill safely. afterall you want to be very careful. to be sure you can take a punch and hammer an indent and if its visible on the opposite side of the firewall your good to drill.

also, what little grommets are you referring too?

[dbTroy]

lubing up the doors.. you guys crack me up

[drocpsu]

That picture makes baby Jesus sad :(

What I'd like to figure out is how to properly run power cable from the engine bay to inside the car. The boot that covers the hole has no access point. And how do you use those little grommets?

My car had another rubber boot running from inside the engine compartment through the firewall and into the cabin up in the dash (behind the glove box). The engine bay side was completely closed off because it was connected directly to the plastic wire condiut that covers the wires in the engine bay, but i was able to cut a hole in the boot just large enough to feed my power wire through.

I was able to use the existing wire passthrough in the firewall, so I didn't have to cut any new holes.

[OldOneEye]

They ran wire through the drain hole?

Juan

[NeverEnuffBass]

For getting wire into the doors I use one of the big 3ft zip ties from home depot. Cut off the locking end, drill a hole in it and tape the wires to it, saved me a lot of time and it won't puncture a door boot.

[Zakerid]

I like to use Windex when running wires. It lubrucates, after a few minutes it dries. I also use a wire hanger when running wire through door jambs , just bend a tight loop on the end you are pushing to prevent scratching insulation or peircing the grommet.

[n2audio]

I had a real hard time with my Contour. It has the boot that's terminated at the door. I had to drill a 3/8 hole right through the center of the connector being careful not to damage any of the contacts that were on about a 3/4" diameter. Luckily it worked out.

[keithace]

screw my civic (97)...had to run door locks and speaker wire...i am not looking forward to running the power window wires...driver side...easy...passenger side...no good...

[Unrthdxdream]

lol and thats why you don't buy imports.... my truck has identical conduits on both sides...

[vmaxnc]

I didn't read every post on here but I saw someone mention WD40 as a lubricant. I've always used Windex. Compared to WD40, it's cheaper, smells better, actually helps in cleanup, and evaporates much more quickly. You can also get some traction on the wire even where it's been sprayed-can't do that with WD40 or any petro-based lubes.

[goodstuff]

How would you handle something like this....it's not a normal boot as you can see...there are big plastic boxes with tape at the end on top of the boot...I'm sure I could get the tape off but could never get it wrapped around the bottom of the boot the same way again...they go way further into the doors than I can reach which I'm not sure is obvious from the pics....I'm going active and I need another set of wires for my tweeters...that's the only reason I want to do this....anyways here's the pics ,the first two are tilted sideways///thanks.

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e394/damagedd/S5030260.jpg
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e394/damagedd/S5030259.jpg
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e394/damagedd/S5030246.jpg
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e394/damagedd/S5030245.jpg

[vmaxnc]

How would you handle something like this....it's not a normal boot as you can see...there are big plastic boxes with tape at the end on top of the boot...I'm sure I could get the tape off but could never get it wrapped around the bottom of the boot the same way again...they go way further into the doors than I can reach which I'm not sure is obvious from the pics....I'm going active and I need another set of wires for my tweeters...that's the only reason I want to do this....anyways here's the pics ,the first two are tilted sideways///thanks.

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e394/damagedd/S5030260.jpg
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e394/damagedd/S5030259.jpg
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e394/damagedd/S5030246.jpg
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e394/damagedd/S5030245.jpg

Three options-

Use the grommet in the pic to run the wire through. Be sure the wire can't be crushed due to it's position on the door frame.

OR

Go through the kick panel, pull the molex connector either into the kick panel or push it out so it's between the door and the car. Most of the time you can then drill through it, then fish your wiring through. You may have to use a Dremel tool in the tight space of the doorframe. It's tedious but can be done.

OR

If you're really lucky that harness disconnects at the car side. It's been years since I did any install but I remember some Hondas, for instance, where the door could be competely taken off the car in about 5 minutes, since they used modular harnesses.

As I said this will take some time but it can't be done and it will all go back together.

[goodstuff]

You know, I never thought about that grommet because I see it every single day and I guess I didn't think of it as being an option. I think I will go that route first...

Oh and if I posted this in the wrong section I apologize...it seemed relevant to the discussion at hand.

[vmaxnc]

You know, I never thought about that grommet because I see it every single day and I guess I didn't think of it as being an option. I think I will go that route first...

Oh and if I posted this in the wrong section I apologize...it seemed relevant to the discussion at hand.

Just be careful of where the wire ends up. Will it get crushed in the door? Will it be visible? Will it get stretched every time you open and close the door?

[pikers]

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e394/damagedd/S5030245.jpg

I was thinking in this case one could simply poke their finger through a rust hole and run the wire through there.:o :D

[OldOneEye]

Might be talking out of turn (or based on way old knowledge) but when I did my acura back in the day, I looked at that and wondered why they did it that way.....

To make it easier to put the car together. Conversely, I would imagine you could probably unplug it as well (might have to pull your front tire though and pull down the splash shield in the wheel well to do it).

I would vote for using what the factory already has first, even if its more work.

I would also suggest cutting off that dynamat that pokes out from around the door panel.

Juan

[88sinz]

looks nice. do i have 1 post yet? lol i need to ask a question. grrr lol

[wowthatnice]

How to snake new wires through your door..... a question that came up quite frequently recently, so I thought I did a little tutorial on how to do it.

Disclaimer:
(Obviously, every vehicle is going to be different. The vehicle I'm using as a demo is a 6th generation Honda Accord, a somewhat average car in difficulty. Other vehicles require you to drill a hole in the inside because there's actually a double firewall before it gets to the inside. In some german cars, like VW's, will have a molex plug stopping you from running the wires in. In that case, you would have to drill a hole from there. From there you would need a skew driver or an offset drill bit. If you ever give up, you can always ghetto rig it and drill a new hole. Make sure you use a grommet and a conduit to protect the wires.)

1.) First step is to obtain tools. You can use either a pick up tool with claws at the end, or an antenna or huge zip tie with electrical tape to snake the wires. You can use a coat hangar but I tend not to because it can easily strip a wire in the door jamb. Fixing these wires will be a bitch. You can use any tool that follows this concept: a long bendable tool (not too bendable) with something to hold the wires as it goes through the door jamb.

In this tutorial, I'm using my old antenna and electrical tape.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l243/vestax05pro/Madison023.jpg

Now it would also help to have a panel popper with a long neck or a flat screw driver. So you can pop off the molex plug or door jamb off.

2.) Roll up your windows, take off your inner panel door, take off your speakers, and your kick panel (and running boards if necessary). Most cars are really easy to do but if you ever get stuck, you can always go to www.carstereohelp.com.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l243/vestax05pro/Madison025.jpg


3.) Pop off the door jambs. The one that attaches to the door, you can easily put your hand through the speaker hole, reach towards the inside, and pop that one off. The one that connects to the car, you should a panel popper to pull that one off.

http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l243/vestax05pro/Madison024.jpg

Here's the panel popper pulling on the door jamb...

http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l243/vestax05pro/Madison026.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l243/vestax05pro/Madison027.jpg

4.) Now that you have the door jamb off. You will now use your snaking tool. I like to tape the 16 awg wires so that there is no "flap" onto my snaking tool. This way, it goes through the door jamb smooth. In this demo, I'm wiring 2 pairs of 16awg through the door jamb. I don't want to wire both at the same time, because knowing my car, there are literally already 12 wires going through the door jamb. So what I do is wire only 1 set of wires through. After I have snaked it, I would tape the new wire so that it "follows the leader".

Here's what it looks like when you have successfully snaked the wire through the door jamb:

http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l243/vestax05pro/Madison028.jpg

5.) After you have snaked it through the door jamb. You now want to pull the wire all the way through until you have enough slack to leave inside the door. Then with the same concept, you should snake the wires through the hole that leads inside the cabin. You should be able to pull the wire from the inside. If you can't find it, then it's because of the disclaimer I listed above.

After you have successfully snaked the wires, put back the door jamb and start on the other side using the same methodology. ;) Easy as 1,2,3 isn't it? ... :blush:

:D

Thanks, this guide help me alots.

Do you have any instruction how to run the amp power-cable thru firewall for Honda Accord as well?

[goodstuff]

I was thinking in this case one could simply poke their finger through a rust hole and run the wire through there.:o :D

It's dirt, not rust, that's in the fenders...lol. I ran the through a hole in the door and then fished it though a hole I found under the carpet the kick.

[8tz]

any ideas on how to bypass that molex connector and drill the wires thru the doors instead? i'm needing to waterproof the drilled holes and haven't a clue what to do. i don't have room to drill thru the molex, there's no empty space.

[vmaxnc]

any ideas on how to bypass that molex connector and drill the wires thru the doors instead? i'm needing to waterproof the drilled holes and haven't a clue what to do. i don't have room to drill thru the molex, there's no empty space.

The molex connectors will pop out of the doorframes,maybe that will give you enough room to drill through. They may already have holes in them, so all you'd have to then is get the wiring through the rubber boot.

[arrivalanche]

What i do for cars that have a decently small rubber track is squirt a little WD-40 into the end that im starting from and the wires slide through VERY easily. try it some time.

[arrivalanche]

any ideas on how to bypass that molex connector and drill the wires thru the doors instead? i'm needing to waterproof the drilled holes and haven't a clue what to do. i don't have room to drill thru the molex, there's no empty space.

you can usually use a dremmel or something to trim a notch in the side of the plug giving you a little room to get it through. You wont be able to run anything too big, but thats just how it goes.

[tr0y_audi0]

Same Teq just drill a hole & pop a gromit
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/7/web/2755000-2755999/2755849_21_full.jpg

[CRD]

Damn , you guys had it easy compared to the Mazda molex connector.

I had to drill a exact hole to pass the wires thru the plug. This female plug connects to a male plug on the frame of the car. no way around it. Making the plug CLICK was the hard part.

So far this was the most time consuming mod I had to do on my install. But WORTH IT :D

http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/5128/dsc1314mediumed1.jpg

http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/2408/dsc1319mediumhs2.jpg

[tr0y_audi0]

Damn , you guys had it easy compared to the Mazda molex connector.

I had to drill a exact hole to pass the wires thru the plug. This female plug connects to a male plug on the frame of the car. no way around it. Making the plug CLICK was the hard part.

So far this was the most time consuming mod I had to do on my install. But WORTH IT :D

http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/5128/dsc1314mediumed1.jpg

http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/2408/dsc1319mediumhs2.jpg

yeah played with that one too..
good fun..

[capnxtreme]

Mad props on the molex.

[Greg_Canada]

Guys try to avoid running wires like this. (see pic below). I had another installer show me this. This was done at a local big box (not gonna say who.)

http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/3830/awesome1ie2.jpg

LMAO, on my buddys car (who just wanted it done, it was a POS he didnt care about) we just drilled holes in the door panel and in the kick panel and left alittle extra wire as slack when the door opened. when the door closed, you wouldnt notice at all. (yes it was a $500 beater)....
no problems.. lol...

[Illusus]

I did my mazda3 last month; it went pretty smoothly...but, anybody get their arm stuck under the dash when installing? This was the second time that had me convinced I was going to have to yell for help.
I didn't have enough room to get my hand to the angle I needed so I folded my wrist, did a little shoulder roll thing, slid my elbow along the floor and pop! my hand was just where I wanted, but then... I shifted my body a bit and must have thrown off the geometry enough that I couldn't get my arm back out, no-matter how slowly and methodically I tried and, I was getting pretty fucking uncomfortable. I looked around for something I could remove with a flat or phillips screwdriver, they were the only thing near me but, nothing. Finally, a deep breath, hard tug and a bad bit of rugburn and I was a free man.

The other time I was wearing a wristwatch while giving the dash a little reacharound.

[pikers]

LMAO, on my buddys car (who just wanted it done, it was a POS he didnt care about) we just drilled holes in the door panel and in the kick panel and left alittle extra wire as slack when the door opened. when the door closed, you wouldnt notice at all. (yes it was a $500 beater)....
no problems.. lol...

No excuse for such activity :D

[satsloader]

I haven't tackled my new Mini yet, I didn't realize there would be a Molex connector on one of the ends of the insulation boot. Is the Molex connector typically on one side or the other? My boot has the small round end on one side, and the big rectangle end on the other. I'm guessing the Molex is on the big rectangle end?

I just got my order from Knukoncepts. In it was 40 feet of the 12ga. twisted bi-wire speaker cable ( 4x12ga. ). With the nice thick clear insulation, this stuff is like 2.0 power wire. I don't think even Astro-Lube is gonna help :o.

I imagine I'll have to strip the insulation just short of the boot, and snake each pair individually?

Bill in P.G.

[Lothar34]

What I'd like to figure out is how to properly run power cable from the engine bay to inside the car. The boot that covers the hole has no access point. And how do you use those little grommets?

Something like this?:
http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage.cfm?&Webpage_ID=3&CAT_ID=35&ObjectGroup_ID=738&SO=2

[What?]

2004-2008 F150's are built in multiple plants. Some use traditional rubber boots. Others (where mine was made:mad:) use molex connectors. Just depends upon where it was built. The 2008 F250/350 also have molex connectors. We removed the doors to run wire through a hole we drilled in front of the molex connector. Drilling the molex plug is a great option when it can be done.

[Ge0]

Anyone ever snake a wire from passengers compartment into the door of a 2nd generation Durango (2004 to 2008)? I looked at this when I first got the vehcile 2 years ago and said fuck it. I ended my cable near the door jam and use the factory wire to pass into the door and make connection to the speaker. Lazy but somewhat effective.

This has been bugging me lately. The only speakers in my system that do not have cabling I would be proud of are the damn midbasses. So, I took another looksie today. I don't see how the fuck they ever fished wire through there to begin with. I've done perhaps 20 cars in my carrier and have never seen anything ike this. I might have to drop the fuggin dash just to get at the entryway into the door grommet.

I'd come through from the door side, but, I was an idiot and sealed that sucker up with multiple layers of sound deadener a year ago.

Suggestions?

Ge0

[borgs]

Planning to install a 8awg speaker cable to the door.Any ideas how to do it?

[Vestax]

Planning to install a 8awg speaker cable to the door.Any ideas how to do it?

In most cases, this would be extremely difficult. It would be better to make a new like-door jamb hole and connection. What car is it? 8awg is already overkill for even subs...why do it for speakers? Unless you're putting high powered subs in the doors?

[Vestax]

To all wanting to upgrade speaker wires to the doors, keep in mind, you probably won't hear the difference audibly for most drivers as stock wiring is often sufficient. If you think there's a difference... try connecting new speaker wires directly without going through door. If you're picking up an extra 1db at 80hz... good for you.. but all that effort isn't worth the pain.