BC 8NDl51-8 8" [Archive] - DIY Mobile Audio - Now with Violent Bass Air!!

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npdang
03-07-2007, 01:18 AM
http://diymobileaudio.com/pics/bc8ndl51/bc1.JPG
http://diymobileaudio.com/pics/bc8ndl51/bc2.JPG

A big thanks to Blair for donating the drivers.

First impression upon looking at these drivers is that they are meant for serious business. No fancy chrome or finishes, just a clean minimalist design. Surprisingly, although not designed for car audio it incorporates many nice features such as venting of the spider through the holes in the plate holding the motor beneath the spider, rather than the usual method of large open windows in the basket which may attract dirt and moisture. And rather than a pole vent, there's a series of 6 holes drilled about the rear of the motor. As a nice touch, there's also a mesh screen covering all the openings in the driver. The paper cone is also treated on both sides for stiffness. And thanks to the neo motor, the driver sits just about as tall as your typical 7" driver in a much more compact form. The basket is a solid cast aluminum. All in all, very well built.

http://diymobileaudio.com/pics/bc8ndl51/fr.JPG
http://diymobileaudio.com/pics/bc8ndl51/ts.JPG
http://diymobileaudio.com/pics/bc8ndl51/klippel.JPG

xmag: 6mm
xsus: > 8mm

Excellent Klippel results; among the best I've seen. Everything is well centered with an astonishingly low inductance variance and flat, extended plateau in the bl curve. Distortion performance is superb (not shown). Measuring the second driver in the pair showed similar results. Mechanical noise is low, although there is some lead slap. Although I don't have any measurements, I would suspect thermal performance is quite good given that this driver is marketed for pro audio, and the manufacturer's IEC power ratings.

Subjectively, I found the midrange performance to be good for an 8" paper cone driver... perhaps on par with the Seas CA18RNX. It's definitely warm sounding, and just taking a guess I'd say it's a result of poor energy storage performance in such a large, soft cone driver. FR gets a bit rough above 1khz as well, another indicator. Efficiency is quite good though, and definitely a strong point.

Overall, a well built driver with very low distortion. I'd suggest using it between 80-1khz ideally. Performance drops rather quickly beyond those limits. P-P throw is pretty limited around ~16mm, so you won't be able to get much low end output from this driver, but for midbass applications it should hit quite nicely in a car given the high efficiency.

MarkZ
03-07-2007, 07:42 AM
The FR looks a little odd on this thing. Am I right to assume that you're going to need some pretty heavy EQing if you want to use this thing down to 80Hz?

Whiterabbit
03-07-2007, 08:01 AM
looks to me like (on axis) a single wideband EQ cut strategically placed would relatively flatten the driver out to 2k easily. The rolloff seems pretty nice and predictable on the bottom end, making it ideal to match up to a subwoofer using a high crossover point.

I've noticed in many installs that a higher cutoff can ease subbass integration anyways.

I wonder if any EQ will be needed on the bottom end at all for this driver (unrelated to install conditions)

300Z
03-07-2007, 08:16 AM
Are you guys forgeting about the cabin gain effects? :p

oldschoolsq
03-07-2007, 08:21 AM
Great write up :) I am wondering how a JBL 2118H/J would compare to this driver :confused:

300Z
03-07-2007, 08:24 AM
I would expect the B&C to be a bit better considering the JBL is over 20 years older then the B&C... lol

oldschoolsq
03-07-2007, 08:37 AM
I would expect the B&C to be a bit better considering the JBL is over 20 years older then the B&C... lol


Older can be better ;)

300Z
03-07-2007, 08:40 AM
LOL... True.

bassfromspace
03-07-2007, 09:41 AM
NP,

If you have a pair of ribbons, try pairing them up with the 8's in car and see how you like it.

npdang
03-07-2007, 12:19 PM
Some EQ is definitely needed to get down to 80hz (you can see the driver drops -5db at that point), although this may vary with each car/install. Here's a comparison with some other drivers you may have heard... might help to determine whether or not eq is necessary for your personal tastes.

http://diymobileaudio.com/pics/7inchmidfr.jpg

npdang
03-07-2007, 12:21 PM
NP,

If you have a pair of ribbons, try pairing them up with the 8's in car and see how you like it.
This driver doesn't fit in my car. Personally, I don't think it'd mate well to a ribbon which should ideally be filtered above 2khz at the very least.

fhl
03-07-2007, 12:49 PM
This driver doesn't fit in my car. Personally, I don't think it'd mate well to a ribbon which should ideally be filtered above 2khz at the very least.

Any ideas on a tweeter that could work?

Frode

Tommythecat
03-08-2007, 09:49 AM
A horn, otherwise use as midbass.

SSSnake
03-08-2007, 04:39 PM
I've been running these in my car for about 1 yr now and I have been very pleased. With equalization these speakers perform very well down to 80Hz. I also have a pair of the 6MD38s that I am using as mids. If used with the 8" they are a very competent combination.

oldschoolsq
03-08-2007, 04:59 PM
I've been running these in my car for about 1 yr now and I have been very pleased. With equalization these speakers perform very well down to 80Hz. I also have a pair of the 6MD38s that I am using as mids. If used with the 8" they are a very competent combination.

Are you using them with horns ? This is the exact setup I have been thinking about using , any negatives :confused:

SSSnake
03-08-2007, 09:09 PM
I am using them with:

Alpine DVA9860
Alpine H701
MB Quart QTD-25
B&C 6MD38 6.5" Mid
B&C 8NDL51 8" Midbass
IDMAX 12 D2V3 (3)
MTX 81000D (3)
MTX 8302 (2)
MTX 6304 (2)

I tried to go with horns but I never could get the high end (above 10K) to sound like I wanted it (I loved the in your face tone of the upper midrange tones but counldn't get them to go low enough to use as a mid or high enough to use as a tweet). If you are running horns that will get down to 1Khz or lower then you would only need the 8"s.

The only negatives is that to get the 80hz output where I needed it I had to tone down the higher freqs. If you are using horns I would try to see if you can get these in a ported enclosure (.35 cubes tuned around 75hz models very nice). I have been debating about trying to port mine. The driver's side would be easy but the passenger side would be VERY tough. Also, I am worried that the tight response could get a little more sloppy.

ca90ss
03-08-2007, 09:13 PM
If you're looking for a horn driver with good upper end response the BMS 4540nd has response up to 30khz although I wouldn't cross it lower than 1.6k.

SSSnake
03-08-2007, 09:24 PM
My problem is that I LOVE horn MIDS. If you find one that gets down in the 500Hz range it doesn't get to 20Khz. If you find one that gets to 20Khz it doesn't get to 500Hz. I know that some of the ID team members claim 500 Hz to 20Khz but I was not able to achieve this.

ca90ss
03-08-2007, 09:31 PM
Have you considered one of the larger coaxial horn drivers?
http://www.bmspro.info/index.php?show=item&usbid=10279&id=5059986
http://www.bmspro.info/index.php?show=item&usbid=10281&id=54369
http://www.bmspro.info/index.php?show=item&usbid=10281&id=54370
300hz-22khz

thadman
03-10-2007, 12:09 PM
I find it EXTREMELY hard to believe you could fit a true 300hz in a horn...even a 600hz horn sounds wildly impractical. The horn becomes so massive at that point that proper CTC spacing with the midbass is impossible. A 1.6khz horn body seems like it may work, but remember once the wavelengths overcome the horn they begin to refract all over the place and it loses its efficiency.

Ideally, you'd want a shallow wide horn as opposed to a deep oddly shaped horn otherwise you are going to mutilate your transient response and experience the horns refracting wrath at the edge of the mouth. This of course is impossible in a car, so I'd advise against using them completely.

DS-21
03-10-2007, 12:13 PM
I find it EXTREMELY hard to believe you could fit a true 300hz in a horn...even a 600hz horn sounds wildly impractical.

One could always rebuild the dash to incorporate the windshield into the flare, or do something like John van Ommen's really cool work with Unity horns in car. (Impractical from an aesthetic and theft-prevention standpoint, perhaps, but probably the only really interesting thing going on in car-fi right now.)

Otherwise, you're right.

dBassHz
03-10-2007, 01:12 PM
Patrick Bateman is working on a unity waveguide that uses 2 2" Tang Band wideband drivers in 4th order bandpass enclosures coupled with a Alpine XT19 tweeter. He was previously using a BMS 4540nd and 3 Aurasound whispers but it was too large. He fabricated an eliptical waveguide that incorporates the dash, windsheild, and side windows as part of the flare. I'm still waiting on his results...

Check out his thread: http://www.audiogroupforum.com/csforum//showthread.php?t=62789

SSSnake
03-11-2007, 10:22 PM
If the horn bodies are mounted correctly to the bottom of the dash you can have freq responses that extend down to 500 Hz. Also, horn depth should not be considered a large issue, delay within the horn is miniscule (to the point many assume 0 delay).

The BMS products look interesting but there is VERY little detail to substantiate their claims. Do you have any personal experience and can you provide and measurements (I'm not doubting you but measurements help me tremendously)?

ca90ss
03-11-2007, 10:48 PM
The BMS products look interesting but there is VERY little detail to substantiate their claims. Do you have any personal experience and can you provide and measurements (I'm not doubting you but measurements help me tremendously)?

I don't have any measurements but from my experience with the 4540nd's and 4552nd's they are very nice drivers. I also believe Chad has used them in some of his pro sound work and he had good things to say about them. Maybe he can shed some light on the subject.

Patrick Bateman
06-23-2008, 08:33 PM
One could always rebuild the dash to incorporate the windshield into the flare, or do something like John van Ommen's really cool work with Unity horns in car. (Impractical from an aesthetic and theft-prevention standpoint, perhaps, but probably the only really interesting thing going on in car-fi right now.)

Otherwise, you're right.

Eek, how did you know my real name?

I try to keep that on the down-low, since I'm semi-well known in my "real" profession. (audio is just a hobby for me, software pays da bills!)

Patrick Bateman
06-23-2008, 08:36 PM
Patrick Bateman is working on a unity waveguide that uses 2 2" Tang Band wideband drivers in 4th order bandpass enclosures coupled with a Alpine XT19 tweeter. He was previously using a BMS 4540nd and 3 Aurasound whispers but it was too large. He fabricated an eliptical waveguide that incorporates the dash, windsheild, and side windows as part of the flare. I'm still waiting on his results...

Check out his thread: http://www.audiogroupforum.com/csforum//showthread.php?t=62789

The new unity is documented over on diyaudio, since audiogroupforum seems to be kinda dead these days.

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=117537&perpage=25&pagenumber=1

The inventor of the real Unity chimed in (Tom Danley.)
Earl Geddes, world renowned expert on waveguides has posted in the thread.
Mark Seaton, former coworker of Danley's is there too.
Jean Michael Le'Cleach, a well known horn expert from France has give his two cents also.

mitchyz250f
07-22-2008, 10:03 PM
I tried plotting these on WinISD beta for a ported box, they were flat to 100hz, but the 'vent mach' showed 'Qes/PE' instead of having a number, what does that mean?

trebor
08-17-2008, 01:08 AM
Could anyone that has this driver be kind enough to tell me the diameter and height of the neo portion of this driver? It's not mentioned anywhere in B&C's literature and it could mean the difference of whether or not it will fit in my door due to the position of the cross brace in there.:rolleyes:

a$$hole
08-17-2008, 02:02 AM
Could anyone that has this driver be kind enough to tell me the diameter and height of the neo portion of this driver? It's not mentioned anywhere in B&C's literature and it could mean the difference of whether or not it will fit in my door due to the position of the cross brace in there.:rolleyes:

Overall Diameter 225 mm (8.8 in)
Bolt Circle Diameter 210 mm (8.3 in)
Baffle Cutout Diameter 187 mm (7.4 in)
Depth 90 mm (3.5 in)
Flange and Gasket Thickness 11 mm (0.4 in)
Net Weight 1.8 kg (4 lb)
Shipping Weight 2.2 kg (4.8 lb)
Shipping Box 300x160x180 mm
(11.8x6.3x7.1 in)

50 mm (2 in) copper voice coil
70 – 3000 Hz response
94 dB sensitivity
Neodymium magnet allows a very light yet powerful motor assembly
Shorting copper cap for extended HF response
400 W continuous program power capacity
Ventilated voice coil gap for reduced power compression

trebor
08-17-2008, 07:16 AM
A valliant attemp Mr H, thank you but how about that diamater and height? ;)
It's not the overall depth and diameter I'm looking for, just the neo portion at the back, I haven't been able to find that info anywhere unfortunately. Can't figure why car manufacturers would want to put any obstruction where clearly a large speaker should go.:p

ClinesSelect
08-17-2008, 10:23 AM
If I am understanding what you are looking for, the machined "bump" is 1" tall and just under 3" across. If that is not it, let me know as I can measure what you need.

trebor
08-17-2008, 10:30 AM
Thats exactly what I'm needing, thank you sir!

sundownz
08-21-2008, 04:42 PM
I think I will be using these in my car :)