Pin 1 (GND) goes to battery ground (or car body if you wish)
Pin 2 goes to +12V battery.
Pin 6 goes to miniDSP + supply
Pin 7 goes to miniDSP ground.
Do not connect pin 1 and 7. They are different, isolated.
Pin 3 & 8 are NC, no connection.
Make sure the pin 2 gets supply only when your HU is switched on. If it goes directly to battery, miniDSP will drain power all time.
For that, you will need another "remote turn on circuit". A relay basically can do the job.
Better if using a turn-off delay because miniDSP may create a thump when switched off.
Pin 1 (GND) goes to battery ground (or car body if you wish)
Pin 2 goes to +12V battery.
Pin 6 goes to miniDSP + supply
Pin 7 goes to miniDSP ground.
Do not connect pin 1 and 7. They are different, isolated.
Pin 3 & 8 are NC, no connection.
Make sure the pin 2 gets supply only when your HU is switched on. If it goes directly to battery, miniDSP will drain power all time.
For that, you will need another "remote turn on circuit". A relay basically can do the job.
Better if using a turn-off delay because miniDSP may create a thump when switched off.
Has anyone tried the new 2x8 MiniDSP? It looks like it takes 12v natively along with a remote turn-on lead. I'm curious if this helps the power/noise issue.
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2007 Ford Escape Hybrid - Massive Audio Nx5, 10W3v2, OEM ID 6's, Vifa NE25VTF, Pioneer Premier DEH-P880PRS
Yes, except the DSP is in the glove box so the ground is pretty far from the amps.
So I can grab a simple minidsp (just two way with crossovers, eq and TA) that $9 isolator, solder a tiny bit and tap into my headunit connections, have it accessible in my glovebox or under seat and no noise what so ever?
Sounds too good to be true.
And the remote turn on provides the power, not the 12 v right?
I see that are building them with a slick looking cover.
Confirmed on all counts. But there's one more hitch, which is the massive turn-off pop the DSP is likely to cause. I fixed this by creating a delayed turn-off circuit using a diode and a 4700uF capacitor.
Confirmed on all counts. But there's one more hitch, which is the massive turn-off pop the DSP is likely to cause. I fixed this by creating a delayed turn-off circuit using a diode and a 4700uF capacitor.
Has anyone tried the new 2x8 MiniDSP? It looks like it takes 12v natively along with a remote turn-on lead. I'm curious if this helps the power/noise issue.
Whoa, that's new! Very interesting. The standard miniDSP also takes 12V natively, but it looks like this one was designed with a nod toward car audio.
But uhm, 200mm x 300mm? That's about the size of a sheet of paper. Nothing mini about that. It's the size of a damn laptop computer.
Anyway I think I'm going to order one to try out, since I'm sort of a fanboy.
The 2x8 doesn't look that appealing... it's massive, it doesn't have a case, and is 3 times as expensive as a 2x4. Not only that, I believe that you can only run one plug in on any MiniDSP at a time, so you might want 8 outputs for a 3-way active+ sub setup that will have one plug-in for the mids and highs, then another for the subs and midbass. The 2x8 looks like it will force you to use the same plugin for all 8 channels.
I'm tempted to try it, but I'm still nervous about the line out voltage. I do like the fact that they included both balanced and unbalanced connections.
On a side note, does anyone running the mini's use a regulator on the PSU?
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2007 Ford Escape Hybrid - Massive Audio Nx5, 10W3v2, OEM ID 6's, Vifa NE25VTF, Pioneer Premier DEH-P880PRS
2x8 comes with its own specific plug in. When I inquired about the 2x4s I was told about the 2x8.. then I asked and got the following response:
With the 2x8 Kit is the plug in included? if not, what plug in will I have to purchase for it?
Thanks,
Jeff
Jeff,
The plug-in is included in the price of this special offer.
We'll update the website shortly with the datasheet of the plug-in and user manual. We'll point you out to the link once online.
Please stay tuned for more info.
Best Regards
miniDSP Dev Team
then they followed up:
The plug-in datasheet is now available online in the product page: miniDSP 2x8 kit | miniDSP
I like the idea of the 2x8 but it is too big of a foot print for me.. I was all set to order 2 2x4 but the noise kept me from it, but now with the Isolated DC-DC I am back to doing this and dumping my Passive Crossovers. still looking at two of the 2x4s though due to size
I really want to hop up on these and I did my research and theory but until someone comes up with a repeatedly tested, working, noise free procedure like this with all components needed:
Mini dsp
isolator
pac tr7 turn on and off delay
line driver
Then Im not going to take the risk as I have bad luck with adding any processors without lots of noise along with them. Only audiocontrol products seem to be noise free for me. Also the older PG crossovers to as they had switching ground type button as well.
Any fine details on the analog I/O stages of the new DSP?
That is one of the things holding me back. The manufacturer does not want to release design details that would be important to someone interested in SQ. I have requested schematics for input circuit and on board power supply but was politely refused. It would not seem to make sense to invest all the effort they have in the DSP design only to cut corners on opamps and input or output capacitors but Alpine did that on the H701.
The $100 entry price for mini-DSP is enough to be very tempting just to play with it. The $299 price for the new board requires some careful weighing of pros and cons. You could easily spend another $100 on software, enclosure, noise filters, fuses, etc. I picked up a used Zapco DSP-6 a couple of years ago for $500. I won't drop that coin on the new mini-DSP board until I know more about its analog design.
As far as the noise issue goes, Stinger makes a ground loop isolator that smply runs inline with the rca input. Wouldn't that be effective in taking care of any noise issues?
I got the 12v power isolator mentioned above and it works great with 0 noise regardless of the ground locations I tried. I already had found a setup of grounding that worked pretty well but I got the isolator unit just because it was cheap and I wanted to be able to post another attempt with it here to help the minidsp community.
i'm sorry i didn't read the entire review, or any of the 10 pages of posts. but i read most of the reveiew, but i seemed to miss if it requires to be powered up from the car to be programmed, if i'm using this strickly as a cross over, can't i just program it for the cross over points and plug it in?
ZED audio, Hybrid Audio, FI audio, M-Audio, Custom carputer
Quote:
Originally Posted by DIYMA
PS. Tell your boss to stop sending me pictures of his cock.
i'm sorry i didn't read the entire review, or any of the 10 pages of posts. but i read most of the reveiew, but i seemed to miss if it requires to be powered up from the car to be programmed, if i'm using this strickly as a cross over, can't i just program it for the cross over points and plug it in?
The miniDSP still needs a power supply to run. You can program it with the USB port serving as the power supply but when it is in the car it is just like any other active component; it needs power and ground.
When I am testing my miniDSP I just use a 9V battery as the power supply so there is no noise....this is not a long term option for using it in the car though.
Re: MiniDSP: An excellent alternative!
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