So I have a simple setup, not wanting to be too complex but I do need some processing and would love to start learning on my own. I just run one 4 channel amp, 2 Bridged to my sub, and the other 2 channels are split to my passive crossovers.
If I am looking at this right...then I can just get the one mini DSP in the alum box with 2 input RCAs and 4 output RCAs. Then the 4 output RCAs from the mini DSP get split for the inputs on my amp with 2 for my sub channel on the amp (rear) and 2 that go to my crossovers (front).
I understand the rest with the plugins, I just want to make sure I'm thinking about the setup practically in my head. I'm a newbie so I dont want to screw something obvious..
Here's a really good walkthrough of someone setting it up and doing mic sampling in their home. The same process would apply in a vehicle. I don't know if it had been posted yet but I found it on their website. I think I'm going to order one of these real soon.
Last edited by TAMUmpower; 12-28-2010 at 12:46 PM..
Not sure. I'm open to suggestions. I read a thread about midbass arrays and I don't have the room for it. However, I have plenty of depth in my rear door locations.
I was thinking about for the L-R surround channel. Using the 10w amps they had, I was looking for something with a ton of efficiency (which I erroneously thought wideband had), which would require a bunch of drivers and more than likely not be the best choice. Maybe something like the Tang Band W4-1805S might be more appropriate.
While my default preference is to mount NOTHING in the rear doors, I don't really have an opinion on what you should put there. I have been around the Speakerworks folks who have successfully used rear/side mounted midbass, and I've read the articles about multiple midbass locations along the 'cone of confusion' here. I have not had a lot (any?) of success with using rear side locations, but I think the problem is me and my lack of experience with digital time delay. That and I started doing this when such a device didn't even exist so your only choice was to get the path lengths right, which is still my primary choice.
What has changed my mind is the stock stereo in my 2010 GMC pickup uses the rears in what I assume is a L-R configuration as an image enhancement device, but they go a step further and use it for tonal balance to augment the midrange. While far from perfect, the truck sounds pretty good with far from optimal positions and absolute garbage drivers.
Which makes me scratch my head over why my wife’s Toyota sounds so bad, even with a 701. My working theory is I have no idea what I’m doing in tuning it.
I was thinking about for the L-R surround channel. Using the 10w amps they had, I was looking for something with a ton of efficiency (which I erroneously thought wideband had), which would require a bunch of drivers and more than likely not be the best choice. Maybe something like the Tang Band W4-1805S might be more appropriate.
While my default preference is to mount NOTHING in the rear doors, I don't really have an opinion on what you should put there. I have been around the Speakerworks folks who have successfully used rear/side mounted midbass, and I've read the articles about multiple midbass locations along the 'cone of confusion' here. I have not had a lot (any?) of success with using rear side locations, but I think the problem is me and my lack of experience with digital time delay. That and I started doing this when such a device didn't even exist so your only choice was to get the path lengths right, which is still my primary choice.
Strictly speaking, since you're creating a center channel, I don't see why more speakers would be better. You seem to be alternating topics between midbass and L-R rear fill. Rear fill should have a higher frequency range than midbass so the "Cone of confusion" wouldn't apply.
I am trying to pick up 2 of these right now but it looks like their shopping cart is broken. I emailed them, but basically it just keeps telling me there is an error and that I need to select a different shipping method...however it only gives me one shipping option to choose from lol
Somehow we are having a miscommunication here. Don't know how we got there but we did. Sorry about that, I'll try to clarify.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ludemandan
Strictly speaking, since you're creating a center channel, I don't see why more speakers would be better.
I have room for a center channel (it's the only stock location in the car), but I'm not planning on using one in the new project. Either seven or nine speakers, JBL 2118 and a ScanSpeak tweeter (I think) in the front, 3 12" subs, and MAYBE a pair 4" in the rear deck as a L-R surround. If I was going to do an MS-8 it would be a no brainer.
I have three NIB antique surfboard Arc Audio 2500CXL amps, and I need some extra amplification to run the surround channels (planning on doing an all active system). I though about using the unit with the 4x10w amp to drive them but I'm kind of resigned to finding another solution. The problem is hiding it in the install, adding a third chassis the size of the processor would be kind of handy since I have to use two units to get six channels of control. Using multiple drivers ganged together in the surround was just an effort to leverage the 10w amp for output.
Quote:
You seem to be alternating topics between midbass and L-R rear fill. Rear fill should have a higher frequency range than midbass so the "Cone of confusion" wouldn't apply.
I know, I was just pointing out I had poor results running multiple midbass locations and I'm not sure why. I did have good luck crossing them over higher and using them as an "image enhancement device".
MiniDSPs website is still killing me. You cant complete your purchase because the shopping cart gives you an error when you try to get past the shipping screen.
I've sent them 2 emails not and posted on their forum but havent gotten any support yet...you think they would notice that you cant buy their products...
*edit* I finally got an email. Looks like I'm going to have to paypal them since I can't make their shopping cart work.
Last edited by TAMUmpower; 01-10-2011 at 07:41 AM..
Can anybody tell me what plug-in I should be looking at? I want a simple 2-way active xover, with EQ/DSP stuff. From what I'm seeing, I can use the Stereo crossover PEQ plug-in, but it only gives 6 bands of adjustment in the PEQ. Are there any other plugins that offer more EQ adjustment bands, yet retain all of the bandpass xover functions?
Advanced 2-way does all that. It's confusing because their programs are so similar, but if you look at the datasheet for each one it shows you a flow chart of the functions.
Advanced 2-way does all that. It's confusing because their programs are so similar, but if you look at the datasheet for each one it shows you a flow chart of the functions.
I can't really tell the difference, what is the difference between the Advanced 2-way, vs the Stereo Xover PEQ???
I can't really tell the difference, what is the difference between the Advanced 2-way, vs the Stereo Xover PEQ???
IIRC, "Advanced" means is accepts the biquad filters imput. So if you ran REW and let it auto EQ, the way it tells MiniDSP how to program the crossovers and parametric eq is through this biquad code/program thing. I dont actually understand how it all works I just know you can either adjust the filters manually or if you get an advanced option which allows both manual or biquad options.
They have links on the site that explain it further
IIRC, "Advanced" means is accepts the biquad filters imput. So if you ran REW and let it auto EQ, the way it tells MiniDSP how to program the crossovers and parametric eq is through this biquad code/program thing. I dont actually understand how it all works I just know you can either adjust the filters manually or if you get an advanced option which allows both manual or biquad options.
They have links on the site that explain it further
I've read them, I still don't quite understand it though, LOL. What is REW?
I've read them, I still don't quite understand it though, LOL. What is REW?
It's a measurement program. Room EQ Wizard. You buy s nice microphone and preamp to hook into your laptop do that you can measure the frequency response of a specific listening environment.
It has an automatic equalizer that can automatically convert this information so that MiniDSP can use it to setup the parametric EQ. You have to buy an ADVANCED plugin option to be able for REW to be able to auto EQ your MIniDSP
I'm not sure you can auto EQ a miniDSP yet. There are posts on their forum about how there's some link in the process that they haven't programmed yet, so you would have to take the reading and make the correction manually. Then again, I don't have REW and I haven't tried to do this.
I'm not sure you can auto EQ a miniDSP yet. There are posts on their forum about how there's some link in the process that they haven't programmed yet, so you would have to take the reading and make the correction manually. Then again, I don't have REW and I haven't tried to do this.
I have REW and after taking a measurement you just select it to apply recommended filters to miniDSP. It shows the 6 parametric EQ Banda and the biquads inserted. My MiniDSP is still in the mail but if it spear auto load you could still enter the biquad characters in manually and use the recommended auto EQ adjustments. Seems simple enough to me
Got my 2 units in a few days ago and I had a chance to play with them a bit tonight. I havent converted to active yet so I just hooked one up to the passives of my system to try out the PEQ.
First impression. The output voltage is more than sufficient. To be honest it sounded at almost the same volume as my system used to be, maybe 10% less. I believe my Becker Traffic Pro has 3v preouts so realistically if the MiniDSP has 2v then its pretty close anyway. I cranked the volume up to 85% and it was more than loud and clear without having to turn up any gains on the amp.
That being said my sub isnt in the car at the moment so maybe they gain may need adjusting for that but overall I was very happy with the signal strength.
The parametric changes happen in real time so its pretty fun to play around with the settings. Its my first time using a DSP so I'm pretty excited. Once I get my new amp rack built I'll go ahead and take some measurements to help me make some effective EQ changes.
Just throught I'd share about the output voltage since a lot of people were wondering
I just set up a neat experiment with a DSP and the Invert function. I plugged it into an amp on the bench, and the amp to a pair of speakers, put the speakers next to each other and played a midbass tone. Then hit invert on one of the channels and lo and behold, active noise cancellation! Beautiful.
Re: MiniDSP: An excellent alternative!
Linear Mode
