I'll be the first to admit, this forum can be very intimidating for the novice. The level of work presented in some of the builds on here is impressive to say the least! With that said, this won't be one of those show stopper builds, but I don't see many classic/muscle car builds so I'll throw some details out for our build and see if there is any interest.
The install is for our 1972 Chevelle. The car was purchased by my parents new and Iíve had it since high school in the mid 80ís. We are doing an extensive frame off resto-mod with new suspension, engine, transmission, and all the goodies. Further details can be found on our website.
The plan for the audio build is a clean non obtrusive install with good sound quality. The entire interior has been lined with Second Skin Damplifier Pro and topped with Second Skin Luxury Liner Pro and Heat Wave Pro above the headliner. The bottom of the car was sprayed with an undercoating while it was on the rotisserie.
The equipment line-up looks like this (So Far);
Retrosound Model One Head Unit (Couldnít cut the brand new dash yet. Iím prepared to swap out for a better HU in the glove box if needed.)
JL Audio C2-600 Separates in the kick panels
JL Audio C2-690TX in the rear deck
JL Audio 10W3v3 (Sealed enclosure)
JL Audio JX250 Mono for the sub (Could be more for the W3)
JL Audio JX360/4 for the front and rear
145Amp alternator (Radiator fans pull almost 60amps alone)
2-Farard Cap (Overkill)
The first step is to figure out the kick pods. The stock dash had perf in the vinyl for small 4x5 speakers, but when we rebuild/recover the dash, I donít want to add the perf, so kick pods are the solution. We purchased a set of repop panels and started building the speaker rings for the C2ís. After some research on this site, we grabbed a slab of MDF and started making dust. For a first attempt, I think they turned out well, but we made it harder than it needed to be.
Park brake lever clearance is always an issue for these kick panels. By recessing the speaker into the ring, we clear the park brake without relocating the mounting brackets.
Ultimately, I would like for the drivers and tweeters to have better directional presence towards the cabin of the car, but in this configuration, they are tucked up tight and out of the way. If they don't sound good, we will regroup. Next step is to pick up some fleece, resin, and body filler to get the panels molded and prepare for covering with black vinyl.
Might look into electronic parking brake to give you more room to build the kicks. Also, chop that dash...lol. Joking, only the owner knows how that will feel to cut something like that.
I hear you on the dash. I had the template cut and was ready to go after the dash but just couldn't do it. I figured I can always come back and cut it when I don't like the HU, but once it's cut, it's CUT!
Not much progress tonight. Second coat of resin applied. I need to get faster at spreading resin and need to buy more disposable brushes...
The process hasn't been as smooth as I had planned, but that tends to happen the first time you try anything.
We ended up with a layer of fleece, two layers of resin, a layer of non-directional matt, three more layers of resin on the front, and backfilled some of the areas with more resin. Everything was going along great until we did the final test fit. Sure enough, all the build-up on the drivers side wouldn't let the pod clear the e-brake bracket. Out came the saw, more glass, more resin, more body filler, and it was time to stretch the vinyl.
As if the project wasn't fighting us enough, the first attempt at laying vinyl became a disaster. I cut a relief cut too deep and it tore exposing part of a radius I was trying to cover. After tearing all the vinyl off, we found it left some of the vinyl backing in splotches which would show thru the new vinyl. The details get ugly, but an hour with lacquer thinner, stripper gel, and a bondo scraper brought us back to where we started.
After all was said and done, we have our first pod covered. There is a very minor wrinkle at the bottom radius I can't get out, but it's barely noticeable. Chances are the perfectionist will take over and I'll end up peeling this one again. It depends on how the driver side goes. Anyway, here is the first one.
They look good man. Fiberglass takes practice and most people don't get it right the first time or think they could have done it better. With the floor carpet in and some clean up they should blend in really well.
The car is still being assembled, but since you asked, here are a few snapshots. There are a ton of images on our website if you are interested. This is a one-family car. My parents bought it new and handed it down to me in ~1983 when I turned 15.
First day home after 9.5 years in storage
Originally Posted by trinity_rush2001
I'm curious as to what you used to cut your rings. I've never seen a drill bit like that
It's called a circle cutter. I think I got mine at Woodcraft ~$35. It works good, but won't do much beyond an 6.5" ring.
I still used a router and flush trim bit, but in hind-sight, it wasn't really needed.
Don't Don't Don't cut the dash, put one of those plastic pods under the dash they look good and there easy.
No worries, I can't see myself cutting the dash. I'm not a big fan of the under dash pods so if I can't make the HU that's in there work the way I want, I'll put a HU in the glove box and route a remote sensor into the cabin area. I can't believe I threw out my old Kenwood when I did the tear-down. It must have made it into the wrong box.
Very nice restoration !!! I had a 67 Chevelle back in the day ... Wish I had it back ...
I think those pods will sound GREAT !!! Just as good as they look ...
I love the 67 Chevelle's. I have to give credit to my wife. She is the one that wouldn't let me sell our Chevelle for so many years.
Originally Posted by iroller
Nice looking motor you got alot into that.
Nothing to extreme in there. Dyno turned in numbers of 393HP and 454lb-ft on pump gas. It's tied to a built-up non-locking 700R4 and posi out back. Should make for a nice cruiser.
Originally Posted by underdog
I see many install head units in the glove box.
I have an old secret audio unit here i used on one build.
Anyway looks good.
Hope your friend gets well soon
I looked at the Secret Audio system, but the Retro Sound unit mouted up in the original dash location and has a built-in docking pod for SD cards and an iPod jack. It would be ideal, but I'll have to see.
On a side note, I've already started upgrading the equipment plan. I shipped back the JX250/1 in favor of the JX500/1. I had been second guessing the JX250 since I bought it and after picking up a JL 10W3V3-2, I figured we wouldn't regret having the JX500, but we may regret having only the JX250. The 2-Farad cap and added overhead of the amp with the remote gain will be nice if we need it.
Jester - Let's see some pics! You went much bigger than I did! In it's hayday (High school) this car ha 3-amps, active crossovers, and 12 speakers. I'm confident the system we are building today will sound and look 10x better.
Last edited by schmiddr2; 07-21-2011 at 03:09 PM..
This was a LOOONG time ago, but if I remember correctly, it's not too difficult to 'hang' a mounting cage just under the dash. I forgot what it screwed to, but some backstrap brazened onto the mounting cage of the HU and a few screws later & the radio was installed. Did not cut a thing nor did it get in the way of the console.
I have no idea if I have pics...I'll see if I can dig some up.
oh, not thread jacking sorry, it's relevent to the thread still
but that seems like a rather simple solution. how hard of an install is that? i'm a rather machanicly inclined person, but cars and me are uhm yeah. not the best of friends, car audio is one thing, wiring is second nature to me. i say simple solution becuase i googled up some stuff and i found this one