Just wanted to let anyone paying attention still that I'll have some updates in the next couple of days. I've been working a little on the kick panel enclosure's for the midbass'. I'm cutting a nice large section out in the kick panel area and bottom floor area that is double walled. Pictures would do great here and I'll do my best to get some better photo's of the process.
I should also mention that the midbass drivers that I will be using are Exodus Anarchy's.
I'll bring you all up to the point where I'm at right now. Here are some photo's of what I'm working with down in the kick area on each side.
I plan on running the midbass' is sealed enclosure's and trying to get the most space possible will require me to cut into the floor. I also need to cut some metal to get some space for the Anarchy's. Below I've outlined the area which will be cut out. This area is double walled so I'm going to seal it off with some sheet metal to get the required airspace.
I had a chance to make the baffle for the passenger side already and do a few other things to it. I went and bought some 00 lead buck shot for reloading shot gun shells with the purpose of mass loading the midbass baffle's. I routed out the backside of the baffle in a few areas and mixed the buck shot with fiberglass filler and now the baffle weighs in at 4lbs. That ring is just sitting on the baffle, I haven't fastened it down yet. The grill will pop into it when all carpeted.
I'm sure everyone has seen them but here are the beefy Anarchy mids in all there glory.
With the change to the Anarchy's I needed to move to an amp that would move them with them being 8 ohm and the sensitivity being terrible. I picked up an Orion XTR 800.4 that will provide 200W to each if needed. It isn't a looker but it's going under the rear deck. I've already removed the trunk springs and installed gass struts.
I also noticed I never included shots of the backside of the sub baffle completed. I just made a simple board that is slightly elevated to allow wire to pass underneath to get to the Orion.
I'll bring you all up to the point where I'm at right now. Here are some photo's of what I'm working with down in the kick area on each side.
With the change to the Anarchy's I needed to move to an amp that would move them with them being 8 ohm and the sensitivity being terrible. I picked up an Orion XTR 800.4 that will provide 200W to each if needed. It isn't a looker but it's going under the rear deck. I've already removed the trunk springs and installed gass struts.
I also noticed I never included shots of the backside of the sub baffle completed. I just made a simple board that is slightly elevated to allow wire to pass underneath to get to the Orion.
I like all of this. I am contemplating changing over to IB and I would want it to look like this.
Managed to get a little more done on the passenger side kick today since it was a little slow at work today. I still need to do a little more trimming on the metal but most of the hard work is done. The massive motor on the Anarchy still hits metal before being fully seated. May not be much of a problem when the baffle is moved out slightly and fully secured. The way I look at it is that if I can fit an Anarchy down there, any 7" driver will fit that I'd ever want to try. Well, beside's that big ass Tang Band?
As you can possibly make out from the pictures the floor area is pretty much sealed. It has that one hole that goes straight out to the bottom as well as the area that vents into the outside frame rail. I already closed off the small hole to the outside with some plate steel. I will play around with a woofer tester to see if I need to vent to the frame or not.
Alright, the next thing I would like to do is say a big sorry to Erin. I had no intentions of making kicks that will look so similar. It's just the best way to go about it after doing some brainstorming.
Next thing on the to do list is to start working on the drivers side. I have to extend 14 wires so I can move 3 harness connectors out of the way.
Wish I could do the same in my Civ, but can't because of the clutch pedal and my quasi-Sasquatch stature.
I almost accidently put my foot through Erin's 18w Scans, just getting into the driver's seat.
Wish I could do the same in my Civ, but can't because of the clutch pedal and quasi Sasquatch stature.
I almost accidently put my foot through Erin's 18w Scans, just getting into the driver's seat.
Luckily I'm not a big guy and I never used the dead pedal so not much is lost. They seem to take up a lot of space right now just bare and exposed but from sitting in Erin's Civic they don't seem too obtrusive when all hidden.
Not a whole lot to report on today. I did trim out more metal and can now say the Anarchy fits in without touching any metal!
The only other thing I did today was move the hood release up higher since it would get in the way on the drivers side. I just used some random metal bracket I had in my toolbox and installed some riv-nuts and bolted it in to an existing bolt. Probably the easiest thing to do so far on the build.
Here is what the hole looks like now after doing a little more trimming.
Here is just a mock up of the baffle and speaker together.
These photo's of the cable may not be the best due to the angle and all but I tried my best.
Are those baffles curved? How did you get the wood to do that?
" You don't appreciate a lot of stuff in school until you get older. Little things like being spanked every day by a middle-aged woman. Stuff you pay good money for in later life." ~ Elmo Phillips
Are those baffles curved? How did you get the wood to do that?
No, the baffles are completely flat. Your eyes may be playing tricks on you. I'm guessing your looking at the upper edge that sits against the firewall?
I'm feel like I'm making some good progress now. I managed to get all the wiring extended this afternoon while at work. I had to extend 14 wires in all to move 2 plugs up and clear the baffle. The blue plug pictured below already had enough slack in it.
In all I extended each plug around 7-8 inches. It was more then needed but I didn't want to have to do it twice. Everything was properly soldered and heatshrinked. The main thing I was concerned with was a big bundle of heat shrink in one spot so I had to stagger where the solder joints were.
Here is an earlier shot of the connectors in question. Like I said above, only the 2 white connectors need to be extended. The blue one has plenty of slack to just be moved already.
Here we are with both harness' extended and taped up.
This is what the area looks like all buttoned up and pretty now! Were ready to make the baffle for the drivers side now.
In the following photo you can see where I have the connectors now. You can see the 2 white one's and the blue connector is behind them and up further.
Tomorrow I plan on making the baffle for the drivers side and making some brackets to mount the baffles to the chassis. I'm tired of driving around with no tunes. If I have the chance I need to find out how much space I'm working with and measure the enclosures.
I didn't get as much done today as I was wanting. I did get the drivers side baffle mostly done and had to rearrange the wiring on the drivers side.
Here we are with the final resting spots for the wiring. As you can see I separated the wiring I extended to go all the way to the fire wall. The other harness goes to the fuse panel and has close to 20 wires in it and I'm not extending those!
Here is a shot of the baffle just in mock-up stage. I used the passenger side template and flipped it over and made minor adjustments to fit around the wiring. The best part is that I took a little more time deciding where to place the hole for the driver and the damn thing almost fits without having to cut out the hole in the floor. I'm still cutting the hole though!
To install the lead shot in the backside of the baffle first I routed out around the backside of the baffle probably 1/2" deep.
I only had about 1.5lbs of lead left but wanted to go ahead and use it up. I just mix the lead shot with fiberglass filler and spread the mixture into the routed out part. 5lbs. boxes are available at Sportsman's Warehouse locally in the reloading section for $24.99.
Nice build here!
OT - do you still have your 750.2? Pm me with your plans for it.
Sorry, The Zapco amps are long gone. Someone got a smoking deal on them.
I was contacted by another member asking for some measurements down in the kick panel a few days ago and figured I'd share them with all. I have yet to take measurements of volume but should have that in a few days.
I did have some free time today to go ahead and cut the drivers side so all measurements will be from that side.
This is the bottom inside edge from the floor down to the cavity. Just a little under 2"
This is the outside edge in the same area, floor to bottom of cavity.
Now on to the measurements from the baffle to the floor. This will give you an idea of mounting depth. The hole diameter is a hair over 6" which would allow me to use any 7" driver on the market at the moment, Scan-Speak Illuminator included.
First one is from the right side of the driver cutout. Looks to be around 5.5"
Now for the left side of the driver cutout. Around 4.25"
Bottom side of driver cutout. 4.25" again.
Top of driver cutout. Looks to be around 3 & 3/8"
Now I tried to eyeball the middle of the baffle and take a depth measurement but it is somewhat close. Possibly around 5.5" or so.
Now, I'm sure you could fit an 8" driver down there if you played around with location and made a few baffles. All the 7" and 6.5" gives you more options to chose from. The motor size is a big factor as well, I could fit a deeper driver than the Anarchy if it had a neo motor for sure.
I found out that the area I cut into had a few more holes to the outside as well. It has one at the upper inside corner of each side. The other is at the bottom inside corner. I just filled the area with more construction adhesive to seal it right up.
If anyone needs anything else I'd be more then happy to assist them.
Did just a little work today before I permanently mount the baffle in the car. I went out and bought another 5lbs. of lead shot but in #4 size, which is smaller then the 00 I was using and some non-hardening modeling clay. The goal is to line the kick panel area with a layer of the 2 mixed together to hopefully reduce any panel/enclosure resonance from the metal.
As of now all I've gotten done is the cavity lined with a 1/4" layer. A layer of Rammat will sit over the clay to hold everything together and another layer of dampening.
Since I never posted a shot of the drivers side hole, here is one below. Have some dampening around the edges so I don't cut a finger off!
I can't take credit for this next idea. I saw it at Erin's GTG last year and loved it, I can't remember who's car though. Someone had a charger set-up for their vehicle and it was set-up on a little dolly to roll it around. I bought an Iota DLS-55 a few months ago and used a spare distribution block I had. I still need to make the leads that connect to the car and make the leads for the vehicle side as well.
I spent the day today finishing up the sound deadening for both sides. I also attempted to mount the drivers side baffle, didn't work out as planned but more on that later.
As with the passenger side I lined the inner cavity with a mixture of clay and lead shot. I then put a layer of cld over that and covered the area where the baffle with eventual sit with multiply layers of CLD. There are areas where the cld is 4-5 layers thick.
Here's a shot of the passenger side after all the deadener has been applied.
As for the failure of mounting the baffles? I made some brackets from aluminum, which took forever(almost 3 hours). Go to install the Anarchy and the damn thing won't go in all the way! It hits the CLD and modeling clay, shit! I take a break and remove the brackets and lay the baffle in another way and it still fits. The brackets I made move the driver in a way that it won't fit. Back to the drawing board tomorrow.
I was also wondering if anyone that has used the Anarchy in a sealed enclosure could speak up. I'm curious as to how big the enclosure was. I took some time the other night and measured the passenger side to be around 4.5-5L which doesn't model that great and overall Q is higher then I'd like so I'm thinking of venting them into the chassis.
Cant help you with the dirver not fitting or in a sealed enclosure. However, thats some impresive treatment to those kicks.
No worries, I have made new brackets and the baffle is mounted and driver is mounted. Need to seal up the edges and do all the finish work to make them look all pretty! I'll have pictures sometime tomorrow.
Got the baffles mounted on both sides and all sealed up around the edges. I have to apologize for photo's of them and all. I was rushed for time and my hands were a little messy from the expanding foam used to seal around the edges. Yes, both the Anarchy's still fit without issues, thankfully!
I ran the wires for the midbass and dash mounted full ranges before I applied the foam. I still haven't decided on how I'm going to finish these cosmetically. I've thought about carbon fiber but have never messed with it, so it would be uncharted territory. I need to get some ideas. I'm buying new carpet which will be black since the tan gets dirty so easily so I have to keep that in mind.
I'm actually starting to see an end in sight. I've had no carpet and most of the interior out of the car since I bought it back in September of last year! I'm a slacker, yes. Tonight I wanted to lay down the CCF and MLV I already had measured out but was waiting to determine the kick location. I also covered the floor ducts with CCF to prevent any rattles against the MLV. These photo's aren't that great as I had no sunlight. The entire floor is now covered with CCF and MLV, just haven't gotten any shots of it yet behind the front seats.
I'm waiting for my new carpet and the carpet for the kicks to get here and decided to start something I originally planned. A filler plate that will block the sound wave traveling up through the dash on the drivers side. Here is the area as it sits right now.
I used a bunch of cardboard to make a template. I had to work around the brake and gas pedal, fuse panel, steering shaft and A/C duct. The OBDII connector is also down there so I had to make sure not to cover it up. Here is the template.
Then transfered that to some 1/4 plywood that I had.
Here is a idea of the board just taped in place. I still need to make some brackets to mount it which is going to be fun as there aren't a whole not of places down there for brackets. I plan on covering it with some acoustic foam and then grill cloth or something.
Damn, just noticed the hood release in the picture below! I'm going to have to figure something out about that. May just devise a way to fasten with some plastic panel clips
Re: Another Civic build! - '08 LX sedan
I am contemplating changing over to IB and I would want it to look like this.
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