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Old 01-12-2012   #1
 
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Default 67 Camaro build/install

I had a thread some time ago about my install, but I got stalled and things changed. I am still in a full-blown restoration on my car, so the stereo install will be a bit slow. However, I should, cross my fingers, have the car finished within the next 3 to 4 months

Here's what I decided to do with my stereo. I sold off all the equipment I originally had and was going to install. I decided to simplify it a bit. I bought a pair of Exodus Anarchys and a pair of CDT ES-02's. That will be my front stage with no rear stage. I'll install a single 12" CDT QES 1220 in the center of the rear deck in a sealed box.

I built some boxes to install into my kick panels for the Anarchy's. It took a bit of designing and figure out how to get between .2 and .25 cu ft in the box. The boxes are built out of 16 gauge sheet metal and slide into the kick panel hole that I cut out. They will be welded into the kicks and flush with the face of the kick panels. The Anarchy's will be off-axis. I still do not know exactly where to install the tweets. I don't know if I should install them on the dash top firing into the windshield, make some pods and fire them across the dash at each other or install them in the kicks. I'm leaning towards option 2. What do you all think?

The amps are JL Audio 450/4 for the front stage and JL Audio 500/1 for the sub. The deck is a Clarion DRZ 9255 MC. Pretty cool deck. Also a Clarion CD changer, I'm old school. I would like to add something like an AudioControl DQXS or even better a RF 3sixty.3 if they ever come out.
Attached Images
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File Type: jpg 01-01-12_1000.jpg (60.1 KB, 426 views)
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Old 01-12-2012   #2
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Default Re: 67 Camaro build/install

Nice looking car! As far as where to install the tweets....I'd do that part last. Get the the other equipment in and making music. Temp wire the tweets and then listen to familiar music and try them in a few different locations. When they sound good, 'glass them in. Just my two cents. Good luck with the build.

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Old 01-12-2012   #3
 
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Default Re: 67 Camaro build/install

Thanks! Although the car isn't much to look at right now. I'm in the mockup and fabrication stage right now. All rust has been taken care of and she's straight, but just in primer. Anxious to get done with all the fab and m/up work so I can get some color on her and assembled for good!!!

The 3rd option is my least favorite, but the 2nd easiest to install. I'll play around with the tweet in different positions. I'm just afraid my leg and passengers leg would block the tweet down low as well as my sound stage would be low.
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Old 01-13-2012   #4
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Default Re: 67 Camaro build/install

REALLY nice fab work on those kick enclosures. She's going to be a beauty when you finish her up!

Try and place the mid-bass drivers as far forward or as close to the firewall as you can in your enclosures. And I agree with customtronic on the tweeter placement.

For the Kickpanel enclosures, is there enough room to wrap the entire exterior with 1/8"-1/4" Closed Cell Foam or Neoprene before they slide into the kickpanel openings you've created? This would work really well to isolate the mid-bass speakers from the car and prevent resonances and rattles. It would also sound deaden this area in general.

I would also line the interior of the kickpanel enclosures with a butyl mat product and then open-cell acoustical foam, "BlackHole 5" or similar, then add polyfill to help gain back a bit of the lost enclosure space and further damp the backwave of the mid-bass.

While you still have her gutted, really think about sound deadening/mass-loading the entire Firewall as far as you can up and under the dash to the base of the windshield, and down into the floor pan. The firewalls on this era of vehicles is really thin and transmits A LOT of road and engine noise compared to modern vehicles.

Treat the transmission tunnel, too. I actually lined the Exterior of the trans tunnel (under the car) on a Mini Cooper S that I had with a layer of butyl mat, then MLV, then Ensolite CCF covered with a reinforced aluminum foil/heat shield and it made a HUGE difference in road noise, along with a similar treatment to the wheel wells. This seemed to REFLECT a lot of the energy so that it wasn't even transferred to the car's sheetmetal (better than trying to damp the vibration/noise after the fact).

While you're at it, treat the rear deck, floor pan area, interior ceiling, and doors, too!

I realize that it's a lot of work, and expense as well, but if you haven't done this in the past you just can't imagine how much of an improvement it makes, and the car overall just "feels" so much more solid and substantial in general.

I've worked on a bunch of rod and classic car builds (my dad is a collector), and as much as I love to hear the awesome engine/exhaust "music", it's really tough to overcome this with the stereo, especially when on the highway where it's combined with road noise. I just want you to hear all of that SQ that your Clarion DRX-9255 is capable of!!! And all you have to do is roll down the windows to hear the sweet sounds of the engine and tailpipes again.

So if eliminating engine and road noise is a concern on this build, the firewall, wheel wells, and transmission tunnel make the most difference in my experience, and then the floor pan and trunk/rear seat back divider. And depending on the car, treating the ceiling can make a huge difference. The limiting factor on most classic cars is all of the thinner window glass and the door/window gaskets.

Also, filling cavities, pillars, and voids with 3M Automix Flexible Foam #08463 or 3M Automix Pillar Foam #08458
really makes a difference on these cars, too.

http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/3m-a...3-p-10858.aspx
http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/3m-a...8-p-10857.aspx

Anyway, sorry I turned this into another Sound Deadening thread, but it's just SO much easier to do when you're at this stage of the build!

Links:

Check out "Blackhole 5" or "Engine Liner Pro", "Dynaliner 2" and "DynaPad".

BlackHole5 at Blackhole 5 Enclosure Damping

Luxury Liner Pro and more at: Acoustic vibration Dampening Mat

Cascade Audio at Soundproofing Barriers for Car Noise Control

Dynamat: http://www.dynamat.com/download/auto...e_Standard.pdf

RAAMmat: RAAMaudio - Automotive sound deadening products

...and the hundreds of Sound Deadening threads already here, lol!

Keep it coming.

Last edited by bbfoto; 01-13-2012 at 03:31 PM.. Reason: additional info
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Old 01-13-2012   #5
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Default Re: 67 Camaro build/install

really looking forward to seeing more of this build. Very promising! oh and the last camaro I did had terrible resonance since its all sheet metal and deadener! Make sure you put some down!
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Old 01-13-2012   #6
 
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Default Re: 67 Camaro build/install

Quote:
Originally Posted by bbfoto View Post
REALLY nice fab work on those kick enclosures. She's going to be a beauty when you finish her up!

Try and place the mid-bass drivers as far forward or as close to the firewall as you can in your enclosures. And I agree with customtronic on the tweeter placement.

For the Kickpanel enclosures, is there enough room to wrap the entire exterior with 1/8"-1/4" Closed Cell Foam or Neoprene before they slide into the kickpanel openings you've created? This would work really well to isolate the mid-bass speakers from the car and prevent resonances and rattles. It would also sound deaden this area in general.

I would also line the interior of the kickpanel enclosures with a butyl mat product and then open-cell acoustical foam, "BlackHole 5" or similar, then add polyfill to help gain back a bit of the lost enclosure space and further damp the backwave of the mid-bass.

While you still have her gutted, really think about sound deadening/mass-loading the entire Firewall as far as you can up and under the dash to the base of the windshield, and down into the floor pan. The firewalls on this era of vehicles is really thin and transmits A LOT of road and engine noise compared to modern vehicles.

Treat the transmission tunnel, too. I actually lined the Exterior of the trans tunnel (under the car) on a Mini Cooper S that I had with a layer of butyl mat, then MLV, then Ensolite CCF covered with a reinforced aluminum foil/heat shield and it made a HUGE difference in road noise, along with a similar treatment to the wheel wells. This seemed to REFLECT a lot of the energy so that it wasn't even transferred to the car's sheetmetal (better than trying to damp the vibration/noise after the fact).

While you're at it, treat the rear deck, floor pan area, interior ceiling, and doors, too!

I realize that it's a lot of work, and expense as well, but if you haven't done this in the past you just can't imagine how much of an improvement it makes, and the car overall just "feels" so much more solid and substantial in general.

I've worked on a bunch of rod and classic car builds (my dad is a collector), and as much as I love to hear the awesome engine/exhaust "music", it's really tough to overcome this with the stereo, especially when on the highway where it's combined with road noise. I just want you to hear all of that SQ that your Clarion DRX-9255 is capable of!!! And all you have to do is roll down the windows to hear the sweet sounds of the engine and tailpipes again.

So if eliminating engine and road noise is a concern on this build, the firewall, wheel wells, and transmission tunnel make the most difference in my experience, and then the floor pan and trunk/rear seat back divider. And depending on the car, treating the ceiling can make a huge difference. The limiting factor on most classic cars is all of the thinner window glass and the door/window gaskets.

Also, filling cavities, pillars, and voids with 3M Automix Flexible Foam #08463 or 3M Automix Pillar Foam #08458
really makes a difference on these cars, too.

3M 08463 Automix Flexible Foam
3M 08458 Automix Pillar Foam

Anyway, sorry I turned this into another Sound Deadening thread, but it's just SO much easier to do when you're at this stage of the build!

Links:

Check out "Blackhole 5" or "Engine Liner Pro", "Dynaliner 2" and "DynaPad".

BlackHole5 at Blackhole 5 Enclosure Damping

Luxury Liner Pro and more at: Acoustic vibration Dampening Mat

Cascade Audio at Soundproofing Barriers for Car Noise Control

Dynamat: http://www.dynamat.com/download/auto...e_Standard.pdf

RAAMmat: RAAMaudio - Automotive sound deadening products

...and the hundreds of Sound Deadening threads already here, lol!

Keep it coming.
Yeah, the midbasses are as far forward as they can possibly go and still be able to install kick panel covers. There is still about an inch of space left forward. I did not go that far because the area I was working with is raised and that last inch is lower than the rest of the area. The enclosures will be welded in and that lower area posed a bit of a problem.

As far as sound deadening...I didn't mention in my OP, but I do have several bulk boxes of Dynamat Xtreme along with several yards of Ensolite CCF. I can't rap the exterior of the box before install because it is a tight fit into the opening I cut out. It's necessary I keep it a tight fit so I won't have problems dealing with the box not fitting right when I start welding it in. I am, however, going to lay a piece of deadener in the back of the opened kick area before I install the box. I will also line the interior of the box with the deadener as well. I can't put any spray foam into this area because GM designed this area as a water drain from the cowl area. I had to account for all of that when I was designing these boxes. I hit my target of the size I was going for, which is in the range of .2 and .25. It's difficult to get an accurate size, but the box is within those specs. The mids will live happily in this size box. I intend to play around with polyfill to see if it is really needed.

I decided not to use MLV because of its thickness. With the carpet, it would be just too thick. I have installed weld in subframe connectors that cut into the floor, so I'm already going to have problems even getting carpet to fit well there. Also, my console, in the pic, which I am fabricating myself, will not allow me to use MLV. I could barely accomodate the thickness of the Dynamat there, which is a must on the trans tunnel.

I also intend to line the back of the dash with the Dynamat and the CCF. I will also, when all said and done, build a panel to closeout the dash area from the rest of the car in hopes of keeping any of the midbass from traveling behind the dash.

I have a long ways to go and a short time to get there with this build. I have set a completion date for this May. That means paint and all. However, this will be phase one of the build. Phase two, after I am driving the car, will be a complete upgrade of the suspension and wheels and tires. My budget at this time will not allow those items and allow me to meet my May deadline. This car has been a 10 year restoration so far and I have to get it together at this point. No more delays!!! It does have Hotchkis suspension on it now though.

Anyway, thanks for the kudos and tips guys. Keep em coming!
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Old 01-13-2012   #7
 
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Default Re: 67 Camaro build/install

I love the GenI Camaro's! It's always good to see more '60s and '70s muscle cars on the board. We are building up a '72 Chevelle. Went a little different route for the front drivers and tweeters. The trunk is framed out for a single 10" JL, bi-amped, and a false bottom in the trunk to hide the hardware.






The sub box will be behind the back wall with just the face and grill exposed.


Looking forward to the rest of your build!
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Old 01-13-2012   #8
 
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Default Re: 67 Camaro build/install

Nice build! You have sooooo much more room to play with than I do. I originally was going to install a 3/4" angle bracket that I made and them use a wood baffle and glass the rear in, but that would require me to remove my foot operated ebrake and install a hand operated ebrake. I just couldn't incorporate a hand ebrake into my console design. My console is a retro version of the original 67 console. I'm actually using the chrome sides of the original console on my new console. My setup now is still going to be tight with the foot operated brake, but it does clear!!

I love the old metal. Give me old school any day over anything new
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Old 01-13-2012   #9
 
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Default Re: 67 Camaro build/install

Quote:
Originally Posted by jebcamaro View Post
Nice build! You have sooooo much more room to play with than I do. I originally was going to install a 3/4" angle bracket that I made and them use a wood baffle and glass the rear in, but that would require me to remove my foot operated ebrake and install a hand operated ebrake. I just couldn't incorporate a hand ebrake into my console design. My console is a retro version of the original 67 console. I'm actually using the chrome sides of the original console on my new console. My setup now is still going to be tight with the foot operated brake, but it does clear!!

I love the old metal. Give me old school any day over anything new
Definitely more room. A buddy of mine is getting ready to start his '68 Camaro build and was over looking at our ebrake clearance. It's tight but workable. I've had this old muscle since I was 15. Got me through high school and college. Parents bought it new so I know everything that's been done to it. Good and bad...

Love your console. We went more traditional with a repop, but I see a custom in our future. No place to put my Starbucks
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Old 01-13-2012   #10
 
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Default Re: 67 Camaro build/install

Cup holder and arm rest was a must for me. Hence the reason for the custom console. Its not difficult to do if you have some fab skills, but it is time consuming
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Old 01-14-2012   #11
 
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Default Re: 67 Camaro build/install

I got out in the garage today and tinkered around a little bit. I didn't really get much of anything done other than tack welded the boxes into the kicks and mounted the Anarchy's. Of course, I had to break out the deck and amp and play around a little bit. I was highly impressed with the sound. It was a lot more than what I was expecting without any type of sound deadener installed or any interior. I needs work, but it was just a mockup sound test. I played around with tweeter placement and I found that I liked them in the kicks best. The sound isn't as low as I thought it would be. From the way it sounds now, though, it needs rear fill. Guess I'll revisit that when I start getting some deadener and interior in the car.

Anyway, here's a few update pics and just a few I thought I'd throw in for


Oh yeah, I told a fib in my OP. I don't know why I was saying I had a drz 9255. The deck I actually have is a dxz 955 mc
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File Type: jpg DSC_9219.jpg (48.9 KB, 410 views)
File Type: jpg i-IMG_0857 (1024 x 768).jpg (58.0 KB, 304 views)
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Old 01-14-2012   #12
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Default Re: 67 Camaro build/install

Holy sheit! Everything looks beautiful, man...You are doing it right, brother! Awesome to have that rotisseree...too bad she's not still up there...would've shot the entire underside and wheel wells with primer then rubber undercoating and applied firewall liner on the engine side.

That V8 looks awesome as well! Balanced & blueprinted, crate engine, bore & stroke, ported the heads, forged pistons & rods, what cam you running???!!! You mentioned suspension, too...what are you going to run? Disc brakes? Trans? Rear diff? Too many questions, sorry, haha!

Nice compressor you got there, too...makes life so much easier when they can keep up with your tools and run multiple at the same time.

If you can, try and make some under-dash sound-absorbing panels that flush out from the outer edge of the lower dash back to the firewall. With your skills you could probably fab these from a wire frame with wire mesh. I've been using CoroPlast corrugated plastic sheets for this lately...it's lightweight and ridgid (what sign shops use for temporary real estate and politician's signs). I usually use cardboard or armature wire to get the shape for the frame/template. Apply acoustical foam and then cover with grille cloth or carpet. This finishes off the footwells/under dash areas nicely. Use velcro to keep them in place but make them easily removable.

Those kickpanel enclosures are recessed in to where the original fresh-air vents were, right?

Looks like you've got everything very well under control on this build. Will be watching this closely.

P.S. You can get rid of that foot brake assembly by using a linear actuator if you'd like.

Last edited by bbfoto; 01-14-2012 at 09:50 PM..
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Old 01-14-2012   #13
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Default Re: 67 Camaro build/install

And if you've got room, fab a battery tray for a "DieHard Marine Battery, Platinum PM-1 Group 31M" under the hood or in the trunk. Item # 02850131000.

Link:

http://m.sears.com/productdetails.do...00P&sid=&psid=

Last edited by bbfoto; 01-14-2012 at 10:06 PM..
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Old 01-15-2012   #14
 
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Default Re: 67 Camaro build/install

I had a 69 Camaro that I was going to build as well. I had all the body parts to redo the body and a motor and trans for it. I scrapped the build when the economy went south and my business suffered from it. So, I started selling off everything for it. A guy came by and spotted my rotisserie and made an offer I couldn't refuse. Good thing is, he's going to let me borrow it in a few weeks so I can get the bottom side finished out.

The motor is not too special. However, it is blueprinted and balanced. The cam was degreed as well. The heads are Edelbrock E-Tec 200's. Only thing done to them was the ports were slightly cleaned up from casting flash. These heads come from the factory already pocketed ported and CNC'd intake and exhaust ported openings. I upgraded the springs in them along with ARP rocker studs. I also installed 10* titanium valve retainers. I installed Comp Cams ProMagnum 1.6 full roller rockers. It has a Howards hydraulic roller cam in it that is in the lower range of the medium range cams. This is a street car, so I wanted to keep the cam a bit small.

The bottom end is all forged. Forged crank, forged h-beam rods and forged flat top pistons. The block is a brand new GM 4 bolt main and factory clearanced. It has a stock looking oil pan that is called a cheater pan. It has a bolt in windage tray, trap door and 2 crank scrapers. A Z28 oil pump along with a SFI balancer and flexplate. All the bolts on the motor are ARP. Nearly all of them are polished stainless steel. The induction is a polished Edelbrock Air-Gap for vortec style heads, which the Eddie heads are. My tried and true Barry Grant Speed Demon 650 DP tops off the motor. I had it powder coated to match my red color scheme. I originally polished it, but the BG's have too much magnesium mixed in the aluminum. So the polish doesn't last long. Plus, it was just showing too much aluminum. I wanted to break it up a bit for more contrast. I also painted the aluminum water pump with the motor as well. The exhaust is handled with a set of Dynatech 1 3/4" stepped headers flowing into a 2.5" Magnaflow stainless steel exhaust system containing a x-pipe.

The transmission is a fully built, upgraded, 4L60E automatic. The carbureted motor caused a problem there, so I outsourced a computer to control the transmission along with giving me full tuning capabilities on the fly. I am awaiting a Lokar billet floor shifter to install. It will be here Tuesday. However, I do have a Twist Machine paddle shifter to utilize on the car as well. To complete the drive train is a factory 12 bolt rearend with the factory Eaton posi and factory 3.73 gears. I went through the rear end and replaced the axles with Moser axles and replaced all the seals and bearings. I also added a Jegs aluminum diff cover and ARP carrier studs. I have yet to order a driveshaft. I'm still waiting to drop the motor and trans in the car so I can fab up my trans crossmember and plumb the motor. I can then measure to have the driveshaft made. It's aluminum though

The suspension is Hotchkis 2" drop coils in the front and 1.5" drop leafs in the rear. I have installed tubular upper and lower control arms that use Del-Rin bushings instead of poly or rubber. Wilwood front and rear disk brakes with integral parking brake will take care of stopping this old muscle. I am, at the time, running GM factory 15" rally wheels with BFG 235 front tires and 255 rear. For me to put this car on the road, I'm forgoing the suspension I really want and larger aluminum wheels and tires. I wanted to make sure there was enough in my budget for all the other stuff I wanted first. Those aforementioned other items can come in the near future though.

I am running Vintage Air Gen IV climate system, so the fresh air vents were going to be no longer utilized. I took care of that void

I already have a yellow top Optima with billet tray. Its to be installed in the trunk. I just haven't nailed down its exact location yet.

Thanks for the compliments and tips. I do plan to try to install some sort of closeout under the dash. However, it may pose to be very difficult to do.
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Old 01-15-2012   #15
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Default Re: 67 Camaro build/install

I really like your fab skills on the sheet metal enclosures. Nice work. I would still see if there is any to incorporate some mlv into the build. Subscribed for more!
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Old 01-15-2012   #16
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Default Re: 67 Camaro build/install

My first car was a 69 so I'm definitely watching this one with great interest. I really like the kicks, nice fab work there.
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Old 01-15-2012   #17
 
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Default Re: 67 Camaro build/install

Thanks...My plan right now is to stick to what I have going right now. I do plan to revisit that at a later date though. I know the MLV will be an even bigger improvement. The carpet kit I have, which all of them are like this, only has a tad bit of excess when fitting it in the car. With the extra thickness of the MLV, I'm afraid I would be short on carpet. I'm not liking the carpet kit I have right now, though. This summer, when I plan to get the seats reworked and recovered, 2000 Trans Am seats, I'm going to discuss the carpet issue with the upholsterer. I'll be able, then, to incorporate the MLV into the car.

Off to the garage for the day to see what I can get done! More pics to come
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Old 02-16-2012   #18
 
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Default Re: 67 Camaro build/install

Nice 69. I've got a 69 Firebird I'm trying to fit some sound to now. Are you on Protouring.com? If not, get over there, great bunch of guys who'd like to see your build.
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Old 02-16-2012   #19
 
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Default Re: 67 Camaro build/install

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Nice 69. I've got a 69 Firebird I'm trying to fit some sound to now. Are you on Protouring.com? If not, get over there, great bunch of guys who'd like to see your build.
69?! Everyone knows wings makes your car fly. My car has wings. It's a 67. That is just sacrilege to mistake the real Camaro to a 69 haha! Thanks for the compliment

I'm on all the sites. I've been a member on them for around 10 years now. I do have my build over on pt and team camaros. I haven't had much time lately to get much done. I have changed directions on one aspect of my build. I went ahead and decided to put 18"s on the car with some Nitto NT 05's. I am also putting the Ridetech AirBar rear tri-4 link with the Speedtech/ATS Chicane front coilover mount conversion. I'm going coilovers on all 4 corners. My wheel choice has forced me to have to do a slight minitub on the rear. 10.5" rear wheels with 295/35r18's. I am going to start the minitub this weekend and finish it up next weekend as well as, hopefully, get the rear 4 link installed next weekend.

Here's a shot of my new wheels. This is of one of the rears.
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Old 02-16-2012   #20
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Default Re: 67 Camaro build/install

Nice build, both of you! My first car audio install was in my 72 Chevelle that I drove in high school. Nothing like you guys are doing though. Was just front/rear speakers, two 12's in the trunk with 2 amps and an Alpine 2 knob tape player. I had the stuff in for about 2 years and once I built a new motor/trans I took it all out. Only left the 2 knob in and put some 6x9's in the rear deck just so I had some sound. I actually still have the car but it hasn't been on the road since 1996

1996 Blazer (SOLD) Currently looking for a newer vehicle....
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Old 02-16-2012   #21
 
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Default Re: 67 Camaro build/install

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Nice build, both of you! My first car audio install was in my 72 Chevelle that I drove in high school. Nothing like you guys are doing though. Was just front/rear speakers, two 12's in the trunk with 2 amps and an Alpine 2 knob tape player. I had the stuff in for about 2 years and once I built a new motor/trans I took it all out. Only left the 2 knob in and put some 6x9's in the rear deck just so I had some sound. I actually still have the car but it hasn't been on the road since 1996
Get'er back on the road!
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Old 02-16-2012   #22
 
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Default Re: 67 Camaro build/install

Tail shot with one of my new wheel/tire on the drivers side. Its just sitting in the wheel well. It's too wide to fit completely. Gotta minitub it. Also my new billet/led tail lights and billet locking gas cap
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Old 02-17-2012   #23
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Default Re: 67 Camaro build/install

WOW! This is going to be so sick! Your skills are definitely to be admired.

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Old 02-17-2012   #24
 
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Default Re: 67 Camaro build/install

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69?! Everyone knows wings makes your car fly. My car has wings. It's a 67. That is just sacrilege to mistake the real Camaro to a 69 haha! Thanks for the compliment

.
I have no idea why I said that, i know your is not a 69. Very different car. Brain fart I guess.
I'm curious about the sub install particularly. I see it's sealed facing to the back. What is your rear deck like? Do you have a fold down seat? I am wondering about the bass getting into the cabin. Mine has a pretty solid fold down and there will be 6x9s in the deck so I'm still not sure where I'll put the sub. Trying to gather ideas still.

FYI on the minitub, I guess if I was in your stage of building I would do it too. May as well make more room in case you want to go really wide later. However, if you don't want to mess with all the work and potential seat fitment problems, the PO of my car was able to fit 275s on 18x10 rims in the back with just careful backspacing. It looks pretty wide from the rear. Just a thought. Like I said, I would have done it at that stage, and the PO of my car actually regretted not doing it too, so...
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Default Re: 67 Camaro build/install

Forgot to ask, how did you attach your closout panels? Did you just bolt them down through the trunk floor? Are the sides removeable? I'm thinking of at least the one corner on my car where the battery sits. I'd need that to be serviceable.
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