Future plans are to redo the boot install so everything is under a false floor (currently the amp/processor are mounted under the parcel shelf) and install the MB Quart amp, then maybe go 3-way with Fountek FR89's on the A-pillars. I also plan to get rid of the standard headunit, hopefully replacing it with a car PC.
The minidsp set me back about $180aud including the enclosure and minidc powersupply board. I've got a second minidsp board ready to go in. It'll fit in the enclosure above the first one, which will allow me to run 4 way active (3 way + sub).
Originally Posted by FrankstonCarAudio
Looks good (seen it on MEA numerous times )
Will we see the car competing at MEASQ Round 3 on March 31st?
Measured Frequency Response (Right, Left, Combined)
Pretty happy with this for a daily tune.
Next step is to come up with a tune for competition which isn't so bass heavy and listening position dependent. If you move a few inches it measures completely differently hah - i'll probably meter it from a few different listening heights and come up with a 'jack of all trades' tune of sorts.
I'm also experimenting with pulling out some time alignment from the passenger side as that seems to help kill sibilance - i guess because the sounds become staggered (+3dB) rather than coherent (+6dB).
MDF boot floor, this gives me something to solidly mount my amps/sub to:
Modified my old sub box with a big 100mm PVC port for the lolz and entered it in an SPL competition. Got 131.4dB @ 42Hz on 340watts, not bad at all for a little 10" on barely any power haha
Pulled apart a brand new 1200w Option Audio monoblock and changed the LEDs to white to fit in with my theme, also flipped the heatsink around so the writing is facing the right way for how i'm going to mount it.
Unfortunately, I dont see a "height" measurement listed for the standard dsp boards so I had no idea what hieght box to look for. Can you tell me what they measure? How tight of a squeeze is it in the project box for the two boards on top of each other?
The only thing I don't like about those is they are fully enclosed except for the end caps. I like that version that I put in the link above which is just what the OP used. It allows the top and bottom halves to come apart for easy connection and maintenance. Good stuff!
Just some white noise in the background. There are quite a few opamps in the crossover/input stage of the amps, ch1&2 has 5, ch3&4 has 7, i guess they all add up to a bit of noise. The gain control is implemented after all the crossovers etc so by turning the gain down it also shuts up the noise but then my input signal isn't strong enough to max out the amps.
I changed the opamps in one amp from the crappy JRC4558s to LM4562s (free samples ftw!), and added 0.1uf ceramic caps across the powersupply to all the opamps. The noise changed to a smoother character but it's still just as loud. It's probably just down to the circuit design and PCB layout. I was tempted to bypass all the crossovers/bassboost/etc since i don't use them, but i think most of the noise is coming from the opamps that are on the main PCB (as opposed to a daughter board), and those ones can't be bypassed easily.
The treble is noticeably crisper after the opamp swap so it wasn't a complete waste of time
With some line drivers i should be able to turn down the gain on the amps to minimum, eliminating the noise. Hopefully my line drivers don't add just as much noise...