Well, I'm at it again. The old Lancer is gone and now I'm working on the Mazda 3 hatchback install. I'll update this thread with pics as I go along, just like the old thread.
My goal is to do a 2-way front stage (midbass plus wideband driver) with a sub. Im not sure yet if I can get one up front, but that will be the goal if possible. I plan to (and have started) fiberglass the a-pillars for the widebanders and make some baffles to squeeze 8" midbasses into the doors like I had on the Lancer.
Here is the list of equipment so far that I will have available to use:
Peerless XLS 430891 8" old XLS midbasses
Tang Band W3-1364SA bamboo coned, neo 3" fullrange
JL Audio XD600/6 amplifier
Arc Audio 4150-CXLR amplifier
Pioneer DEH-80PRS source unit
I'm undecided on the sub right now but I have a few ideas brewing. I would love to install up front, possibly in the passenger footwell, but I need to check my space and figure out what I have to work with first.
Just a few pics to kick off the thread here as Ive started glassing the pillars already...
I also started laying down some Rage Gold but didnt get pics of that yet. Will probably be another day or two before I have some more updates. Oh, and for reference- These are aimed on axis to the driver...I dont care about a "2 seater" listening experience. Since Im the only one in the car about 98% of the time, It doesnt make any sense to me to do it any other way. And I don't believe that firing drivers across at each other is the best way to get a good tune either...in fact it sounds absurd to me, but anyways...I digress.
damn, I wish I knew how to do fiberglass. I really need to get into that....
Looks like it's coming well. I'm curious to see how those 8" drivers will look in the door.
You and me both brother! I'm hoping it wont require as much crazy modification as it did with the last install...otherwise Im going to have to drop down to a 7"er. (You can see the last build using the link in my sig...)
As long as they have the clearance behind the panel, I should be good to go.
A few more pics and updates. I got a little more Rage gold on the pillars toay in between taking my door apart and scratching my head...
For those that haven't done any fiberglassing before, the reason why I drilled the holes in the pillr panels is so that the resin can pass through the panel and create a stronger bond from the front to the back of the piece. It doesnt typically bond very hard to some plastics, especially if they are bendable.
And on to the doors... I guess I should have expected it to be a nightmare, eh?After taking the door panel off, there is a molded inner cover panel instead of a complete steel panel. I guess this is becoming more typical of newer cars? Anyway, it's going to make for more work for me for sure to be able to get a good solid mount point for the baffles and drivers. I cut a section out and will end up having to cut baffles anddo some fiberglassing to mate it to the door panels. And to make it more interesting, with the window down, i have limited mounting depth so hopefully there is enough clearance once I get the baffles and drivers behind the panels...
I also started laying down some Rage Gold but didnt get pics of that yet. Will probably be another day or two before I have some more updates. Oh, and for reference- These are aimed on axis to the driver...I dont care about a "2 seater" listening experience. Since Im the only one in the car about 98% of the time, It doesnt make any sense to me to do it any other way. And I don't believe that firing drivers across at each other is the best way to get a good tune either...in fact it sounds absurd to me, but anyways...I digress.
Unless the car is like a Honda Fit, Prius, or similar I really dislike on-axis A-Pillar installs. No matter how discrete you try to make them they still look like tumors. I'm not that into sound to compromise the appearance in that way. But to each there own.
Its nice to see another 3! Can't wait to see how you resolve the doors.
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Unless the car is like a Honda Fit, Prius, or similar I really dislike on-axis A-Pillar installs. No matter how discrete you try to make them they still look like tumors. I'm not that into sound to compromise the appearance in that way. But to each there own.
Its nice to see another 3! Can't wait to see how you resolve the doors.
Some of the A-pillar builds are way over the top and really do look like tumors
Last edited by trojan fan; 05-09-2012 at 11:26 PM..
Unless the car is like a Honda Fit, Prius, or similar I really dislike on-axis A-Pillar installs. No matter how discrete you try to make them they still look like tumors. I'm not that into sound to compromise the appearance in that way. But to each there own.
Its nice to see another 3! Can't wait to see how you resolve the doors.
Thanks Johnny. If they are integrated well, I think they can look "ok". But honestly, if you're doing them in the pillars firing across from each other, why bother?
Better to stay away from the pillars all together at that point. In this instance, I have more pillar/dash space than I did in the old Lancer, and I knew I liked the sound much better on axis and up on the dash so I decided that was the route to take. Hopefully I can make them look presentable, but Im more concerned with the sound really. And it's only a single 3' speaker so it shouldnt be too crazy. The doors will definitely be a challenge though!
Can you replace the plastic inner door skin with a fibreglass one? It looks to have enough curves to be stronger than the plastic without being too bulky and you could reinforce the back if necessary.
Should provide a strong surface to mount the door driver.
Can you replace the plastic inner door skin with a fibreglass one? It looks to have enough curves to be stronger than the plastic without being too bulky and you could reinforce the back if necessary.
Should provide a strong surface to mount the door driver.
Can you replace the plastic inner door skin with a fibreglass one? It looks to have enough curves to be stronger than the plastic without being too bulky and you could reinforce the back if necessary.
Should provide a strong surface to mount the door driver.
I agree with Trojan Fan. The panel itself is fairly sturdy actually. Its at least a 1/4" thick and is a molded plastic composite. I think just cutting out the section needed, and then glassing to the panel to bond should be pretty good. (Of course more goes into it than just laying glass in the panel...drilling holes so it will bond, etc) I'll also use some material on the plastic card to deaden if it shows resonance issues. I didnt have any noticeable with the stock speakers which did have surprising output. That said, they'll be moving nowhere near as much air as the midbasses I'll install.
Worked on getting some baffles/rings cut out yesterday. Need to trim them at the corners to fit behind the stock door panel and then test fit before fiberglassing. I'll probably just use some popsicle sticks and hot glue to hold them in place.
I agree with Trojan Fan. The panel itself is fairly sturdy actually. Its at least a 1/4" thick and is a molded plastic composite. I think just cutting out the section needed, and then glassing to the panel to bond should be pretty good. (Of course more goes into it than just laying glass in the panel...drilling holes so it will bond, etc) I'll also use some material on the plastic card to deaden if it shows resonance issues. I didnt have any noticeable with the stock speakers which did have surprising output. That said, they'll be moving nowhere near as much air as the midbasses I'll install.
The panel is really stiff; the only area that is 'weak' is at the top of the door aft of the centerline. There is this translucent patch of super thin plastic. I think its an access hole of some sort. The only other area is where the wires go in towards the sheet metal. Its a think piece of foam tape-like material. I covered both of those areas up so no air will leak out.
I always seemed to have trouble getting good response from mid-basses in my doors. NOt sure why. They are deadened really well...maybe too well?
On this next round I'm might try some SLS's possibly with maybe an Aura Widebander in the sail panels.
What I have noticed in this car is the road noise; its really noisy. Hopefully the ensolite in the doors will help cure some of this. NExt step is MLV on the floors, wells, etc.
I create high quality system diagrams for both the competitor and enthusiast alike. Contact me if you want one done!
Last edited by jonnyanalog; 05-11-2012 at 03:06 PM..
Well... it looks like I'm into more work than I had hoped. The XLS midbasses are a little oversized (bigger than the SLS) and requires more clearance to (a) allow the door card to go back on, and (b) to not hit it from the inside.
So that means... CUTTING the panel. Jeez, feels like dejavu here...
This door build should be quite a bit easier than the last one though since I can cut out a nice sized spot and then just build frames and grills to attach to the door skin after. The tougher area is inside the door where I will need to mount the baffles and secure them/fiberglass to the existing structure.
I got the panels cut with the rotozip yesterday and trimmed the baffles down a bit more to fit better. Next up, I need to screw the baffles into place just enough to get the fiberglass mold going. I'll mask off the door and lay it up, then when its done, I'll secure the mold and baffle with screws to the door metal frame.
Here's the panel sitting over the existing speaker on the passenger side.
Baffles/Rings glued up and trimmed.
I also am making some progress on the A-Pillars. Getting more material layed on and sanded down until they look like I want them to. I will most likely wrap them with some sort of fabric once they're ready.
2005 Mazda 3 Hatchback SQ Install
Re: 2005 Mazda 3 Hatchback SQ Install
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