My previous Corolla had a full Audison setup so I'm transitioning over to JL Audio for a fresh new change since I love the W7's so much. I kind of like JL more and more as more people ride theJanis Ian DIY speaker train and continue being too snobby to like JL. I used to go to audio meets all over the place so I'd like to go back to some .... with a new system.
Equipment (so far):
Front stage: JL Audio C5-653 3-Way Set
Rears: Disconnected my stock rears (none)
Sub: JL 13W7AE
Amp: Audison LRx 5.1k
The goal is to have a nice stock looking modest setup versus my previous super flashy Audison Thesis setup I had. The 6.5" woofers will be installed in the stock locations in the door. The tweeters will be installed in the A-Pillars around eye/ear level. I'll be upgrading the stock center channel to the 4" JL Audio Midrange so I will have a spare 4" Midrange left over as a backup. Subwoofer will be in an angled box in the trunk and I still havent figured out how I'm going to mount the amp or if I'm building a false floor with a smaller W7. Lots to think about here!
Anyways, to give a heads up, I DID try a JBL MS-8 off Crutchfield at first since it offered center channel support, but I felt I couldn't ever fine tune it to my liking. The auto-tune calibration was also way too sensitive, as it kept picking up my amp fan sounds and thus skewing some of the midbass/bass transition in addition to a host of other problems (the first one I received had a DOA output section). I've always preferred manually tuning and time aligning so I will NOT be using the MS-8 or any EQ until I get an Audison Bitone or maybe a Mosconi DSP6to8 (if i ever do get an EQ).
A few people were asking where they could route wire in the A/T 2013, it's in the driver side firewall. Notice how the stock sound deadening is actually pretty sweet for a Hyundai! I had to rip a few layers to even get to the sheet metal.
Exterior underneath hood (near ECU)
Adding door speakers was not hard. The hardest part was taking those damn rivets off the door to get the stock brackets out. They can take forever because there are wrapped in plastic. I tried to rip the speaker out and use the stock bracket, but the JL Audio midbasses were a little too big too fit in the bracket. I had to use birch baffles instead. 7.5" Outer Diameter with a 5.75" inner diameter seemed to work perfect, with little to no interference from the stock door panel. I thought about routing new wire until I saw a full molex on both sides. Didnt' want to drill a new hole or route a new grommet. The stock wire will do just fine haha.....(it better ).
Depth to window without bracket on top side of hole
Depth to window without bracket on left side of hole (even shallower)
I was a bit concerned about how close the speaker would be to the door panel in addition to the midbass magnet hitting the window when it rolls down. The stock brackets are a little over 1.5" deep. To compensate for this I used two layers of weather stripping so that it would compress when i drilled the baffle in and be just under 1.5" and also air/water tight with plenty of room for excursion for the woofers without slapping the door panel.
Second strip with baffle
Feel free to ask any questions!
More to come!!