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2012 Subaru Forester Install - JL Audio, Tidal, and Helix

28K views 141 replies 24 participants last post by  chithead 
#1 ·
I swore this time it would be a, "Wait until it's finished, and THEN do a build log" - but just can't resist posting this up for the interested Subaru owners out there.

We recently acquired a 2012 Subaru Forester, and even my wife admitted during the test drive that the radio, had to go. Since I had quite a bit of items left over from the WRX build that wasn't ever completed, it was decided to try and incorporate most into this build. After multiple listening tests, back and forths, and a few stalls - it is decided. The list of equipment being used, is as follows:

Eclipse CD8443 as the source unit, with CH3083 8-disc CD Changer
JL Audio C3-650 Component Set
JL Audio C2-650x Coaxial Speakers
JL Audio XD-PCS4-2B Dual amplifier Wiring Kit
JL Audio XD-PCS4-1B Single Amplifier Wiring Kit
JL Audio XD-BTS Battery Connector with red logo for positive terminal
JL Audio XD-BTS Battery Connector with black logo for negative terminal
JL Audio XB-CLRAIC2-18 RCA Interconnects (three of these)
JL Audio XA-CLR9CON-20 9 Conductor Speed Wire
JL Audio XA-SWA-SX16 16ga Speaker Connectors
Tidal Audio MB-S5800 Five-channel amplifier
Helix Esprit E12W 12" Shallow Mount Subwoofer

The plan is to install the coax in the rear doors using Birch baffles, the C3 mids into the front doors with Birch baffles, and then mold the C3 tweeters into each front door sail panel.

The amp and subwoofer will be installed into a false floor enclosure, replacing the underfloor storage tray above the spare tire. Keeping the spare tire is a must, no compromises here.

I will be using Sound Deadener Showdown Products as much as possible during this build. Don has always treated me right, and his products have never done wrong by me.
 
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#86 ·
Good looking sub, did you ever find out what was the deal with the flat sound and where it was install related? Would be very interested to know.
 
#88 ·
Phase could be a possible cause. It's definitely one of the items that will be addressed in the final install.

I want to take another look at the sail panel area, and see what can be done to tame those reflections. That was definitely the better spot for the tweeters, so fine tuning from there will help button everything up.
 
#89 ·
Worked on some of the wiring this weekend - wanted to correct a grounding issue that I "might" have caused when changing the factory terminals to the JL Audio pair. :D:D:D

Ok yes, I caused it. But at least it's being admitted! And it's fixed now. So :p

Shot of the JL terminal and an additional ground wire:



Ran that additional wire over to the stock bolt on the fender:



Added another wire from the firewall down to the block. Found a good location here under the intake:



Blurry picture, but you can see the additional block to firewall wire next to the factory ground wire. Quite a big difference (and I only used 8ga wire):

 
#90 ·
Started on a new wiring harness last night. Wanting to lose those spade connectors, and go with something a bit more "installer friendly". Also printed out labels for the wiring, ordered new Techflex, 4ga. lugs... things are finally in motion!!!

A replacement head unit has been decided upon, so need to secure a PAC TR7 and Metra Axxess ASWC to install it. Modifying the wiring harness though to make provisions for these.

More details soon :)
 
#91 ·
Ran into a slight "hiccup" when modifying this replacement harness - the Metra Axxess ASWC require tapping into a few wires for steering wheel control retention. Since I did not want to modify the factory wiring at all on this build, there were some unused wires on the aftermarket harness. Pulled them, moved over to slots 4 and 13, but still needed pin 14 for a ground.



Had to get really creative on this one, and hope that it works. Lets just say I spent a lot of time with a paper clip and sandpaper getting it to the right shape as the other pins. Voila! Pins 4, 13, and 14 have been added in order to add the Metra ASWC and not cut or piggyback off any factory wires.

Had to order more heatshrink, and also some heat shrink solder connectors. A friend at work told me about them, and since the wire lengths I'm working with are so short, they seem like a perfect solution for this harness. Waiting on them to arrive and will of course update with details and pictures.

Metra Axxess ASWC and PAC TR7 have been ordered also.
 
#94 ·
If i were you, look in to processor and go active... you will notice big huge jump in sound quality,.
I never though i could get so much more control over my speakers when i went Active... I"m using Alpine H800 and lovin it..
 
#96 ·
A little late but Im using this harness, already has the extra 3 wires on it.

Radio Wiring Adapter (Harness) for Subaru Impreza and Forester
I may have to do some more thinking on that harness. Plan was to just try and make my own, but it's not as "tidy" as had hoped. Doesn't matter if you never see it, I like a clean wiring job. Thank you for giving that tiny push for me to just go ahead and do it correctly :D

Oh, the PAC is a e-brake bypass for an Alpine head unit, in order to be able to adjust the settings in the head unit without having to be parked.

If i were you, look in to processor and go active... you will notice big huge jump in sound quality,.
I never though i could get so much more control over my speakers when i went Active... I"m using Alpine H800 and lovin it..
I'll definitely be going active, but in another install. This is just a "basic" daily driver build, with a few twists ;)

How are you liking that H800? Heard many good things about them.
 
#97 ·
Ive used his harnesses on my last Subaru and they work great.

Like I said earlier Im anxious to finish my Impreza and start on my wife's 2012 Forester next after looking at your build.

How do you like the JL C2 coaxes for the rear as im gonna need something in the back doors on her Forester.
 
#98 ·
Thank you for that, I used his page for modifying mine, but didn't even consider just buying the harness. SOOOO much easier to just do that.

Those C2 coax really surprised me. They are currently installed in the doors of our Ram for break-in, and the midbass output is VERY strong.

Hopefully things will fall into place and get back started on actually installing these pieces, so we can bounce more ideas off each other (and hopefully get a direction for your Forester build as well).
 
#99 · (Edited)
Have you ever seen these threads before?
Installed: 8" sub on BOTH sides of the hatch (Merged) - Subaru Forester Owners Forum

http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f77/install-8-sub-stock-location-3540/

I just recently picked up a 2003 forester and I'm planning on installing 2 sd-2 8's in the same area. Hopefully I'll start on them tomorrow. The guy in the thread just used mdf and deadener, I plan on glassing them in. Since you were satisfied with the 2 sa-8s I figure you'll probably be satisfied with the output of the sd's. I have to get in there and look but I think the sd 8's will fit perfectly. I'm just a little worried about the large surround on the sd 8's but if I have to I'll just cut a little plastic and add an external grill and I should be fine. I'm not sure if your newer forester is built like my 2003 forester but I figured it wouldn't hurt to show you the idea.
 
#101 ·
Have you ever seen these threads before?
Installed: 8" sub on BOTH sides of the hatch (Merged) - Subaru Forester Owners Forum

Install: 8" sub in stock location - Subaru Forester Owners Forum

I just recently picked up a 2003 forester and I'm planning on installing 2 sd-2 8's in the same area. Hopefully I'll start on them tomorrow. The guy in the thread just used mdf and deadener, I plan on glassing them in. Since you were satisfied with the 2 sa-8s I figure you'll probably be satisfied with the output of the sd's. I have to get in there and look but I think the sd 8's will fit perfectly. I'm just a little worried about the large surround on the sd 8's but if I have to I'll just cut a little plastic and add an external grill and I should be fine. I'm not sure if your newer forester is built like my 2003 forester but I figured it wouldn't hurt to show you the idea.
Actually his enclosures prompted me to try out a pair of 6.5" subwoofers back there, then the Sundown SA-8" subwoofers - and yes, there are MOST impressive. I would recommend those to anyone looking for an amazing subwoofer for a super price, and with minimal space requirements. Definitely excited to see what you come up with, and your impressions of the SD-2 8"

I have run my Eclipse AVN6620 for years in 2 different comp cars and love it .. I swapped it out for a alpine w505 and the Eclipse went right back in lol .. There amazing head units.. Great build man..
No doubt, Eclipse makes fantastic head units. Shame they aren't releasing into the US market anymore, but the ones you can get floating around out there are worth every dollar. Thank you for the kind words!

PAC TR7, Metra Axxess ASWC, the heatshrink, and a few other goodies arrived. Still a few more details to address before the harness can be completed, and re-installation of all the pieces can commence.
 
#100 ·
I have run my Eclipse AVN6620 for years in 2 different comp cars and love it .. I swapped it out for a alpine w505 and the Eclipse went right back in lol .. There amazing head units.. Great build man..
 
#103 ·
The Eclipse did just have a single wire for bypass, but an Alpine is making it's way into the Forester now. Looks like a few more wires to hook up, but nothing too terrible!
 
#106 ·
JX250/1 arrived, along with quite a few other install items. Ordered some more harness/adapters for the Subaru. Just waiting on them to arrive now. Started on some more of the wiring to pass the time:







Took some measurements yesterday to make sure the false floor idea was going to work. Still not one hundred percent certain there is enough room for everything, but going to try anyways.
 
#108 ·
Tried to find a font that matches the JX lettering on the amps as close as possible, printed out on just regular paper, and then ordered clear heatshrink from RadioShack - 1/2" slips right over the connections. The 3/4" I ordered is WAY too big.
 
#109 ·
Worked on the new harness a bit tonight. The 9-wire bundle is tied into the adapter from AE64, and I added a 6-pin plug in order to be able to remove the replacement head unit, without using those spade connectors anymore. Should make for a much easier plug and play setup, and definitely looks a lot cleaner inside the dash :)



 
#110 ·
To put more into perspective why I added the additional 6-pin plug - the 9-wire bundle runs from the four channel amp up the adapter from AE64, and then ties into the factory speaker wiring. The added plug allows disconnection of the head unit away from the adapter.

Here is a view of the entire assembly:



Also worked on the power wire from the under hood fuse back to the distribution block near the amps:



And two more goodies from AE64 - the 16-pin adapter that allows retention of the factory 3.5mm input jack, and also the USB adapter. Part of getting permission from my wife to delve into the install was that everything remain as factory as possible... so these extra adapters will be well worth it:

 
#112 · (Edited)
After some more measurements - just couldn't quite figure out how to get both amps and the subwoofer into the rear storage tray area.

So consulted with a friend about how to even construct it should all three items even fit. And that's when the lightbulb lit brightly.

Took all four pieces of the "tray" out this morning:



Which revealed this much space above the spare tire, and beneath the flooring:

 
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