So, another car, another build thread. My other/main project can be viewed here: VW Passat -00.
I have a ton of stuff just collecting dust on the shelf and I'm tired of driving a car without proper sound during the entire winter season. I wanted a car that was easy to modify and work with and a Golf mk3 was almost ideal for this. Most of the gear isn't super high-end and flashy but it will do the trick with proper install and setup. I will probably need to buy some gear anyway but I'll try to keep costs to a minimum. What I'm trying to archive is competition-grade SQ system by the use of measurement gear through the entire process. I will to get the most of every part in the system and avoid as many issues as I can in the process. This build might get technical, theoretical, weird and it's very probable it never will be completely finished. Think of it as infinite ongoing or something as I will try out lots of the stuff that were to troublesome to implement in my main build.
Equipment list (so far):
HU: Sony CD/MP3/AUX-in (dunno model nr yet - not new model)
DSP: Behringer DCX2496 (as I write this, not yet modified for 12V)
Amplifiers: Soundstream STEALTH (2x 4ch) (1x mono)
Sub: ? (Got several subs)
Midbass: Seas L18 H1224
Midrange/Widebanders: ? (Maybe Dayton RS125)
Tweeters: ? (I have 3 candidates)
Power: Banner Running Bull 70Ah AGM - Stock 90A alternator.
Cables - Power: 0GA (50mm²) Main Power cable - fused 200A.
Cables - Signal/Speakers: Audison or DIY / OFC 2,5 - 4mm² to all drivers.
Ok. I got 3 tweeters, one pair of "Amega QW1" - Swedish car audio brand. Moderately expensive kit. I have 1 pair of Peerless HDS large flange drivers and 1 pair of Vifa BC25 (horn loaded/waveguide version). The Peerless drivers are probably the best performing overall, however the size is a drawback. The Amega drivers have high Fs (resonance) of 1500Hz and sound best above 4000Hz or so, the Vifa's goes slight lower - I'd say ~3kHz with a steep crossover slope.
The tricky part is that the DCX has 6ch output which means passive crossovers between midrange/tweeter. The driver with the cleanest bottom have an edge over the others if I were to use a simple cap in series for a 6dB/oct electical filter (which might not at all have to mean a 6dB/oct acoustic slope), it's important to differentiate the two. Crossovers will be determined my measurements of both driver and environment and modeled in LEAP speaker design software to get optimal crossover component values.
Midranges: Got a pair of Dayton RS125 and RS52 domes. Also some TB w3-871s widebanders, a pair of 2" Cambridge kevlar OEM widebanders (decent drivers). Also a pair of 4" Canton midranges (plastic cone?). The OEM dash speakers measure 3,5" so any driver with a flange of 10cm(4") will fit there (IF I where to place them there, that is). A pair of Vifa TG9 would be perfect, sold those drivers a year ago unfortunately, would have to buy another pair. I'm leaning towards the Dayton Rs125, they have an exceptional lower midrange.
Sub(s): Got like 12 subs in my little stash. Leaning towards my old Atomic 12" sub, it's like 20 years old but still in excellent condition. Slightly high Q (0,55) limits the enclosure alternatives to IB/Sealed/AP. I have two TB w8-740s, mid Q drivers around 0,4 - they will work in vented enclosures as well as BP enclosures and more exotic designs like tapped horn/TL. They are 8" drivers with "standard" X-max so output will be limited in sealed/IB. Also have a 12" MacAudio STX sub, an old Pioneer 12", an Atomic 10", two Canton OEM 12" drivers, a TB w10-8...? driver, some MDS Audiophile 12" and two unknown PA 12" drivers... Suggestions?
*I might get some HU with iPod support, IF I buy a HU it will probably be an Alpine or a Pioneer 80PRS.
*Might buy another widebanders/midranges if the price is right and it's good for my application. Vifa TG9, Dayton ND-series, Vifa NE-series perhaps?
*Before I even start with drivers I must determine the acoustic response at different positions in the car. The Schroeder frequency (the transition to the modal lower frequencies) and the lower octaves highest modal peak (should occur around 50Hz in this car). How the cabin gain looks is important for modeling enclosures and get the response to match as good as possible towards my target response.
-- The amps are custom anodized by Grizz Archer, bought them from him some time ago, shall be fun testing these amps. They are not available in Sweden as far as I know so they are kinda rare over here --
I have a ton of stuff just collecting dust on the shelf and I'm tired of driving a car without proper sound during the entire winter season. I wanted a car that was easy to modify and work with and a Golf mk3 was almost ideal for this. Most of the gear isn't super high-end and flashy but it will do the trick with proper install and setup. I will probably need to buy some gear anyway but I'll try to keep costs to a minimum. What I'm trying to archive is competition-grade SQ system by the use of measurement gear through the entire process. I will to get the most of every part in the system and avoid as many issues as I can in the process. This build might get technical, theoretical, weird and it's very probable it never will be completely finished. Think of it as infinite ongoing or something as I will try out lots of the stuff that were to troublesome to implement in my main build.
Equipment list (so far):
HU: Sony CD/MP3/AUX-in (dunno model nr yet - not new model)
DSP: Behringer DCX2496 (as I write this, not yet modified for 12V)
Amplifiers: Soundstream STEALTH (2x 4ch) (1x mono)
Sub: ? (Got several subs)
Midbass: Seas L18 H1224
Midrange/Widebanders: ? (Maybe Dayton RS125)
Tweeters: ? (I have 3 candidates)
Power: Banner Running Bull 70Ah AGM - Stock 90A alternator.
Cables - Power: 0GA (50mm²) Main Power cable - fused 200A.
Cables - Signal/Speakers: Audison or DIY / OFC 2,5 - 4mm² to all drivers.
Ok. I got 3 tweeters, one pair of "Amega QW1" - Swedish car audio brand. Moderately expensive kit. I have 1 pair of Peerless HDS large flange drivers and 1 pair of Vifa BC25 (horn loaded/waveguide version). The Peerless drivers are probably the best performing overall, however the size is a drawback. The Amega drivers have high Fs (resonance) of 1500Hz and sound best above 4000Hz or so, the Vifa's goes slight lower - I'd say ~3kHz with a steep crossover slope.
The tricky part is that the DCX has 6ch output which means passive crossovers between midrange/tweeter. The driver with the cleanest bottom have an edge over the others if I were to use a simple cap in series for a 6dB/oct electical filter (which might not at all have to mean a 6dB/oct acoustic slope), it's important to differentiate the two. Crossovers will be determined my measurements of both driver and environment and modeled in LEAP speaker design software to get optimal crossover component values.
Midranges: Got a pair of Dayton RS125 and RS52 domes. Also some TB w3-871s widebanders, a pair of 2" Cambridge kevlar OEM widebanders (decent drivers). Also a pair of 4" Canton midranges (plastic cone?). The OEM dash speakers measure 3,5" so any driver with a flange of 10cm(4") will fit there (IF I where to place them there, that is). A pair of Vifa TG9 would be perfect, sold those drivers a year ago unfortunately, would have to buy another pair. I'm leaning towards the Dayton Rs125, they have an exceptional lower midrange.
Sub(s): Got like 12 subs in my little stash. Leaning towards my old Atomic 12" sub, it's like 20 years old but still in excellent condition. Slightly high Q (0,55) limits the enclosure alternatives to IB/Sealed/AP. I have two TB w8-740s, mid Q drivers around 0,4 - they will work in vented enclosures as well as BP enclosures and more exotic designs like tapped horn/TL. They are 8" drivers with "standard" X-max so output will be limited in sealed/IB. Also have a 12" MacAudio STX sub, an old Pioneer 12", an Atomic 10", two Canton OEM 12" drivers, a TB w10-8...? driver, some MDS Audiophile 12" and two unknown PA 12" drivers... Suggestions?
*I might get some HU with iPod support, IF I buy a HU it will probably be an Alpine or a Pioneer 80PRS.
*Might buy another widebanders/midranges if the price is right and it's good for my application. Vifa TG9, Dayton ND-series, Vifa NE-series perhaps?
*Before I even start with drivers I must determine the acoustic response at different positions in the car. The Schroeder frequency (the transition to the modal lower frequencies) and the lower octaves highest modal peak (should occur around 50Hz in this car). How the cabin gain looks is important for modeling enclosures and get the response to match as good as possible towards my target response.
-- The amps are custom anodized by Grizz Archer, bought them from him some time ago, shall be fun testing these amps. They are not available in Sweden as far as I know so they are kinda rare over here --