2010 Nissan Altima - Car Audio | DiyMobileAudio.com | Car Stereo Forum

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Old 02-21-2015   #1
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Default 2010 Nissan Altima

I'm Back!

So in my sig is a link to my first build in a 2003 Honda Accord, and now I'm back with my new car, a 2010 Nissan Altima 2.5s. Here's the only picture I have for now, I just got it last night.



I'll be using the same gear I took out of the Honda, and will be doing the majority of the work in a couple weeks over spring break.

Head unit: Pioneer 80prs
Amps: Alpine PDX F6 + M12 combo
Speakers: Image Dynamics xs65
Sub: Arc Black 12v2
Wiring: 1/0 power, 12 sub, 16 speakers, all Kicker.
rca's: Stinger HPM3 20 ft.

I'm uber excited to get working on it. I love the way it drives, I'm still getting used to the cvt transmission but overall it's a smooth ride. Ready, set, go!

My build ->2010 Altima
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Old 02-21-2015   #2
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Default Re: 2010 Nissan Altima

Congrats on the newest project vehicle....

(2.5GT) Limited Legacy / Alpine INA-W910 /Audison APK-165....

Ram 1500 Hemi 4x4 aka Tri-Tone...
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Old 02-21-2015   #3
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Default Re: 2010 Nissan Altima

nice!! congrats!!

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Old 02-22-2015   #4
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Default Re: 2010 Nissan Altima

Quote:
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Congrats on the newest project vehicle....
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Originally Posted by diy.phil View Post
nice!! congrats!!
Thanks guys, can't wait!

My build ->2010 Altima
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Old 03-15-2015   #5
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Default Re: 2010 Nissan Altima

Soooooooooo I got the majority of the work done last Monday-Wednesday. Everything is in and sounds pretty good, although there are a few things I would like to do (as always). So I'm not going to talk much, just let the pictures do the talking...






I was excited to use the stock locations for the ID tweeters. I used hardboard, a jigsaw, and a hole saw.












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Old 03-15-2015   #6
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Default Re: 2010 Nissan Altima

I didn't grab many pictures of the front baffles but I need to redo them anyway. They just look ugly. I used a jigsaw because I was short on time but I'll redo them with a router later (hopefully before the spring meet). Here's a few pictures though...













I did use a router for cleaning out the bolt holes, but again, it was free hand and ugly but workable. I glued the two pieces together to make a one inch baffle, but as I was putting them in they broke apart (apparently CA glue doesn't like HDPE). But i taped them back together with some raamat and they're working until I can make some new ones.



Here's the wiring as it goes back and into the sub box that I used before. Nothing fancy, just functional.



I managed to get the 1/0 gauge wire through the stock grommet pretty easily with hand soap and a hanger.









Used the nifty Alpine RUX knob








Yes, I used two strips of duct tape in this build..





I put the usb in the glove box, hopefully to be moved to the center armrest soon..





Forgot the tweeter wiring...





I found a good grounding spot underneath the support bar:







And here's the sub box with the Alpine pdx F6 and M12 screwed into the back.









Overall I really enjoy listening to music in my car. I need to remove the rear speakers to get a bit more air into the cabin, redo the front speaker baffles, and sound deaden the heck out of everything. But I'm happy for now

My build ->2010 Altima
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Old 03-15-2015   #7
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Default Re: 2010 Nissan Altima

For your next round of baffles, I recommend King Starboard. I got mine from Cesany Plastics (Username: Acesany on eBay) and have always had a good experience. He offers it from like 1/4 to 1.5" thick. Easy to work with with a router and wood blade on a jig saw. Makes an awful mess tho. lol

Hold screws (in pre-drilled holes) and threaded inserts well.

Jay

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Old 04-27-2015   #8
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Default Re: 2010 Nissan Altima

Quote:
Originally Posted by JayinMI View Post
For your next round of baffles, I recommend King Starboard. I got mine from Cesany Plastics (Username: Acesany on eBay) and have always had a good experience. He offers it from like 1/4 to 1.5" thick. Easy to work with with a router and wood blade on a jig saw. Makes an awful mess tho. lol

Hold screws (in pre-drilled holes) and threaded inserts well.

Jay
I just ordered a 1" thick piece of King Starboard from Acesany and it should be home Wednesday. I should be home next Monday after final exams and I'll try to work on them asap. Thanks for the lead

My build ->2010 Altima
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Old 04-27-2015   #9
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Default Re: 2010 Nissan Altima

I destroyed my sub by being dumb and now need another.

Should I go back to Dayton HO 10's or is there something better for the buck? I honestly liked the Dayton as good as any sub I've tried, and it's the least expensive sub I've used, so I see no point not going in that direction.

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Old 04-27-2015   #10
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Default Re: 2010 Nissan Altima

^^^ you have answered your own question with a great response.

(2.5GT) Limited Legacy / Alpine INA-W910 /Audison APK-165....

Ram 1500 Hemi 4x4 aka Tri-Tone...
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Old 05-13-2015   #11
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Default Re: 2010 Nissan Altima

Happy to see another Altima build. Great Platform.

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Old 05-21-2015   #12
 
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Default Re: 2010 Nissan Altima

Great build. What happened to your sub, if you don't mind me asking?
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Old 05-22-2015   #13
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Default Re: 2010 Nissan Altima

Quote:
Originally Posted by wdemetrius1 View Post
Happy to see another Altima build. Great Platform.
Thanks, I've peered over your build several several times

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Originally Posted by EcoHawk View Post
Great build. What happened to your sub, if you don't mind me asking?
I don't know for sure, I just know I burnt the coils. I had the gain on the m12 all the way down with no bass boost (on the amp) and the rux knob was almost completely counterclockwise. But I did have "superbass" on the preset so I'm sure that did it. It was during a crown the empire song so I blame them haha.

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Old 05-22-2015   #14
 
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Default Re: 2010 Nissan Altima

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Originally Posted by WhereAmEye? View Post
Thanks, I've peered over your build several several times



I don't know for sure, I just know I burnt the coils. I had the gain on the m12 all the way down with no bass boost (on the amp) and the rux knob was almost completely counterclockwise. But I did have "superbass" on the preset so I'm sure that did it. It was during a crown the empire song so I blame them haha.
Wow, hope that doesn't happen to mine! Did you like the Black 12 before it got fried?
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Old 05-25-2015   #15
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Default Re: 2010 Nissan Altima

Update.

I've been able to deaden all four doors, build new baffles out of King Starboard, and get a new temporary sub until I get tired of it

To get inside the inner door for deadening, roll down the window until you see two bolts (hiding behind two foam tape pieces), and unscrew these bolts.





Next, carefully pull the window up and tape it to the top of the door like so:



Leave the four bolts in the middle portion because these hold the window tracks. unscrew the bolts on the outer edge of the black piece and pull it out.



I used RaamMat bxt II and Ensolite (finished up his #1 package finally; it lasted through my Honda doors and all four of these doors) and SDS MLV/ ccf. Here's the pictures of sound deadening:





I used three of the surrounding bolts (added with a washer) to hold the MLV in place and it works really well:









Repeated on driver door:

















I sealed up the rear doors but didn't use any mlv (ran out haha).

















Got some King Starboard from acesany plastics and a new toy at my local Klingspor:





My diy router table didn't work very well due to some bouncing, but I got a Crafstman router table so on my next speaker set (should be a while, I'm enjoying the xs) they should be better. I'm happy with how the baffles turned out though.













Used the handy dandy Bridgeport at the machine shop to bore out a hole for the stock bolts...



And used the Jasper jig for the id hole:







Predrilled the holes with a 1/8" drill bit and used the screws that came with the mids.




My build ->2010 Altima
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Old 05-25-2015   #16
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Default Re: 2010 Nissan Altima

I guess I forgot to mention that I sold the Pioneer radio and got a Kenwood ddx372bt to take it's place. I don't have active processing anymore but luckily the xs crossovers are well build and designed (even if the mids are just passed thru ). I'll get some pictures up soon.

But for the sub I found a IDQ12v3 on classifieds and it has the same box requirements and hole cutout size of the box that was in there so it was a win-win!









It's currently not as loud as the Arc, but I guess that's what happens when you don't push your sub to burning point

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Old 05-25-2015   #17
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Default Re: 2010 Nissan Altima

Quote:
Originally Posted by EcoHawk View Post
Wow, hope that doesn't happen to mine! Did you like the Black 12 before it got fried?
Loved it. But I like change enough to not overpower my willpower to get it repaired

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Old 05-25-2015   #18
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Default Re: 2010 Nissan Altima

Nice to see someone else in Lynchburg more concerned with SQ rather than just trying to be loud and obnoxious.

Great work on the doors, the bolts holding the MLV...are they pre-existing holes or self made?? Great job! My MLV is held mostly by Tuck tape and door card pressure (does the job)...would have loved to do something similar as yours but I don't have the tools for the job.

Also I gotta ask, what is that ported enclosure tuned to?

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Old 05-25-2015   #19
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Default Re: 2010 Nissan Altima

Quote:
Originally Posted by crackinhedz View Post
Nice to see someone else in Lynchburg more concerned with SQ rather than just trying to be loud and obnoxious.

Great work on the doors, the bolts holding the MLV...are they pre-existing holes or self made?? Great job! My MLV is held mostly by Tuck tape and door card pressure (does the job)...would have loved to do something similar as yours but I don't have the tools for the job.

Also I gotta ask, what is that ported enclosure tuned to?
The bolts I used are existing bolts used to secure the black piece to the door. There's still plenty of support with the other bolts and the ones used are still tight.

And the box is 1.5 cuft tuned to 30hz. It sounds good it's just nowhere near as oomph as the arc. But I still need to play around before I rush to conclusions.

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Old 05-25-2015   #20
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Default Re: 2010 Nissan Altima

port looks a bit thin to be 30hz, but maybe i'm no good at eyeballin it? But if you're not getting any bottoming out down low then its all good. (possibly why your other sub failed?)

What made you swap out the 80prs? do you miss the active processing?


Last edited by crackinhedz; 05-25-2015 at 06:26 PM..
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Old 05-26-2015   #21
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Default Re: 2010 Nissan Altima

Quote:
Originally Posted by crackinhedz View Post
port looks a bit thin to be 30hz, but maybe i'm no good at eyeballin it? But if you're not getting any bottoming out down low then its all good. (possibly why your other sub failed?)

What made you swap out the 80prs? do you miss the active processing?
I used winisd to design the box so I'm pretty confident in the box itself. But I had the subsonic filter on 15hz on my alpine so I may have fed it too much low low stuff.

But I don't miss the processing enough to complain about. I'm debating getting a minidsp soon though...

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Old 05-26-2015   #22
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Default Re: 2010 Nissan Altima

Nicely done!!

I still have yet to actually "hear" a PDX F4 I picked up. Hope it sounds good.
Man I gotta get a router table setup.

And no worries there about moisture.. The star board makes that little nuisance go away I'd guess.

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Old 05-26-2015   #23
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Default Re: 2010 Nissan Altima

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Originally Posted by Babs View Post
Nicely done!!

I still have yet to actually "hear" a PDX F4 I picked up. Hope it sounds good.
Man I gotta get a router table setup.

And no worries there about moisture.. The star board makes that little nuisance go away I'd guess.
Yeah the King Starboard won't even hold tape or glue very well so I know it's safe against water.

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Old 05-26-2015   #24
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Default Re: 2010 Nissan Altima

I forgot to add this picture yesterday showing my rear deck, now deadened and speakerless.




I like the Kenwood head unit for what it's worth. I really wanted a more streamline dash with dvd screen, something better than the cheapish looking Pioneer. More importantly, I wanted to get rid of the Pioneer eventually anyway because of the rather limited crossover points and my hopes of going with a tweeterless setup (HAT L3, audible physics, etc).





Apparently Demon Hunter is No Name haha.

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Old 05-26-2015   #25
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Default Re: 2010 Nissan Altima

I was having some whine and turn on pops from the Alpine amps, so I added in a Bosch relay to try and negate them. I believe it helped with the whine, but the turn on pop is still there. I need something with a delayed turn on switch so that the amp comes on after everything else does.


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