2017 Colorado Crew cab build - Car Audio | DiyMobileAudio.com | Car Stereo Forum

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Old 03-04-2017   #1
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Default 2017 Colorado Crew cab build

This thread is simulcast on the Colorado fan forum too

Stock head unit, we'll see if it is any good after some tune time
Processor - Helix V-Eight. This provides me 10 channels of DSP and 75W x 8 power in one unit.
Subwoofer amp - Arc KS 500.1 Mini
Subwoofers - Image Dynamics ID8 pair
Front woofers in the door - Image Dynamics X69
Front dash speakers - Audible Physics AR3-A wide-banders
Front tweeters - Audible Physics AR20

Pulled apart the rear seat area first, man getting those seats out was annoying (looong bolts)



Back panel pulled


Rear panel raw and clean (simple diluted degreaser is what I use)


Its a truck, so the interior panels can go in the bed during the teardown. I laid down some moving blankets to keep things scratch-free


I'm impressed with the factory carpet quality, including the foam backing


I decided to try a new deadener. I usually use Knu Konceptz Kolossus which is some exceptional stuff. However I was in the mood to try something different so I ordered Reckhorn ABX from Amazon. I would say it competes with Knu Konceptz lower grade stuff, as far as quality, weight, thickness, etc. But so far its been a pleasure to work with. Gloves are smart if you're going to be running your hand over it, as the foil is razor-sharp.




I laid a bit of deadener on the plastic rear panel

Rear panel readied, can't mount it yet because the rear side panels tuck in behind it

Special thanks to all of the industry experts that share their knowledge here on the forum
2015 Durango R/T, Build MS-8, Massive NX4 pair, Massive N3, ID X6x9, Wavecor center, Alpine SPX Pro tweeters, Sundown SD3 10's
2017 Colorado, Helix V Eight, Arc 500.1, ID8's, Audible Physics AR3 & AR20
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Old 03-04-2017   #2
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Default Re: 2017 Colorado Crew cab build

I pulled the factory head unit, noticed right away the connectors are different than expected. Looks like there's changes for 2017


I then used a "Euro barrier strip" to connect the speaker outputs to my processor.


Head unit back in.


Decided to take a break from the head unit, to look at how the doors will get wired. And then I noticed there's a molex in the way. Yep, this door isn't getting a speaker wire upgrade..

Its just too complicated to work with


So that went right back together


I pulled the A-pillars and top dash panel, took a look at the factory speakers. They look to be something like a 2" or 2.5" type paper speaker. This isn't really too bad for factory.

Factory mounting


The mounting hole is about 2.7" diameter


This is the Audible Physics AR3-A wide-bander. And it will need a bit more space than the factory speaker, unfortunately!


Special thanks to all of the industry experts that share their knowledge here on the forum
2015 Durango R/T, Build MS-8, Massive NX4 pair, Massive N3, ID X6x9, Wavecor center, Alpine SPX Pro tweeters, Sundown SD3 10's
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Old 03-04-2017   #3
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Default Re: 2017 Colorado Crew cab build

The speaker diameter is about 2.50"

The factory speaker is about 1.5" deep (including flange)


The AR3-A is about the same depth


The magnet diameter is pretty large, so this will need some work to fit


I had to pull the whole damn dash! It wasn't too bad but there were some pucker moments



I took a break from the insanity of pulling the entire dash, and decided to run the power wire. I needed something easy to do for a while. Best spot bar-none is the rubber grommet right above the accelerator pedal.

I'm using 4 gauge Radaflex welding cable. My system plans call for a modest amount of power so 4 gauge should suffice. Radaflex is an absolutely awesome copper cable, and I high recommend using it in audio builds. The cable is sheathed in red techflex

I ran the cable down the driver's side

Next up I built connectors for my front speakers. These are XT60 type. I really like using these for audio builds, and I buy them in bulk.



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Old 03-04-2017   #4
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Default Re: 2017 Colorado Crew cab build

I realized with the door molex being what it is, I won't be able to run the tweeters in the door sail panel area like I was hoping to. So plan B is to use the pillars. I cut some holes and got to it

I got them pretty even I think. That's always a gamble


The whole damn dash


This is the factory mounting area, marked off for cutting


I trimmed the whole and then the mounting tabs, and my AR3-A's fit right in


Tomorrow, I'll try to finish up the front dash and pillar area, and we'll see what else gets done.

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Old 03-04-2017   #5
 
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Default Re: 2017 Colorado Crew cab build

Looking great so far

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Old 03-04-2017   #6
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Default Re: 2017 Colorado Crew cab build

Nice man! I didn't have to take off the whole dash panel when I cut mine to fit the Hybrid Unity's but I'm sure that makes it a lot easier. I also drilled holes through the sides of the doors to add thicker wiring to my 6x9s.

Keep up the good work!

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Old 03-05-2017   #7
 
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Default Re: 2017 Colorado Crew cab build

Looks good!
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Old 03-05-2017   #8
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Default Re: 2017 Colorado Crew cab build

is there enough space in the door molex connectors to drill-out unused pins and pass through your own cables?

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Old 03-05-2017   #9
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Default Re: 2017 Colorado Crew cab build

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Originally Posted by nadams5755 View Post
is there enough space in the door molex connectors to drill-out unused pins and pass through your own cables?
Possibly but I don't want to damage it. I'll just live with the very slight voltage drop. Not perfect but I did the math with the help of bcae1 wiring section, with the I will lose ~2W by using the factory 18 gauge vs. going with 16 gauge. Both are less than 1dB loss compared with no wire, so its inaudible. It would be a bigger deal if I was using a more powerful amp than the V-Eight, though. I'd exceed the wire's acceptable current capacity if I went over ~119W.

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Old 03-05-2017   #10
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Default Re: 2017 Colorado Crew cab build

Time for an update

Started with the rest of the dash this morning, just cut the other side so my mids would fit


Also had to cut the remaining part of the dash still in the truck, just used a box-cutter and took my time



Decided to deaden the dash, why not, right?


Dash went back on without a hitch


AR3-A widebanders prepped for installation.



I stuffed the inside of the speaker holes with thick radiant barrier, and lined the outside with Ensolite


Mounting was easy, other than needing to use a screwdriver bit in my hand to fasten the screws closest to the windshield. Got some sore fingers but that's it




I added more Ensolite to make a type of cup up against the speaker and the top dash panel





Mounted the tweeter in the A-pillar, only one got done so far, but I think it looks pretty good





Next up, gotta finish the pillars and get the front stage wiring ran to the amp rack-to-be.

Special thanks to all of the industry experts that share their knowledge here on the forum
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Old 03-06-2017   #11
 
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Default Re: 2017 Colorado Crew cab build

Looks great man! I'll be interested to hear how your good the oem head unit signal is or if you go another route.
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Old 03-06-2017   #12
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Default Re: 2017 Colorado Crew cab build

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Originally Posted by truckguy View Post
Looks great man! I'll be interested to hear how your good the oem head unit signal is or if you go another route.

Thanks man, I think I'll try to measure it with REW before I commit fully to the stock unit.

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Old 03-08-2017   #13
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Default Re: 2017 Colorado Crew cab build

Minor update for the evening, decided to take a crack at one of the doors while I'm waiting for a tweeter

First off, the OEM manual for 2017 at least is off on how the truck goes together, or at least my WT model. Not sure about the others, but it pointed to access spots and things I don't have, so that made things tricky. Second, the majority of the plastics in this car have proven to be excellent quality, but these door parts are painted and super easy to scratch, even with the proper plastic panel tools. I always try very hard to leave no evidence I've of work on the panels, but these pieces are showing a bit of scuffing (will show as I go)

This panel must be popped up. All edges scratch even with plastic tools, so I found the best spot to be at the back, by the pad. It WILL sound like you are breaking it, notice the scuffs around the edges, minor little nicks but the tools, even my thinnest plastic popper, had a hard time getting a grip.


That part pries off, and you can see this inside.


So next, this side panel has to come off. This proved very tricky


Side panel came off, had to not only pry, but also carefully nudge each clip out with the pry tool, by pressing inside the metal clip.


The issue I think is the metal clips have a lock feature, which is this little piece of metal that jambs itself and locks against the other panel, right in the middle of the clip on the top, and bottom. This part did not want to come off, but it must to access the bolts holding the door. Again, none of these bolts are shown in the OEM manual.


These two bolts must come out


Next problem, the top of the door panel did not want to release at all. Again in the manual, it just says pull, shows a few clips but ignores the top. Not sure if I was supposed to or not, but I lifted UP and with lots of pressure, released the actual window liner part along with the door panel. It fought hard to stay on


I noted that the factory speaker has indentations from the door panel, around a foam gasket. This means I need to build a replacement baffle that ends up almost exactly as tall as the factory speaker and spacer, and then add my own foam gasket. Sometimes its not clear how tall to build a baffle, this time I know precisely.


Inside the door has a sorry excuse for deadening. Looks like it was literally slapped on, and the e-coat or seal coat or whatever that goes in the door went over that



Bare metal underneath!



Because of the bare metal issue, I made sure to cover these spots completely with deadener, which will preserve it. Using the last of my KnuKonceptz Kolossus here, split what I had left in two for the other door when its time. Knu Kolossus is better than the Reckhorn I bought to try, but more expensive and heavy. However if I were doing it all over again, I'd just get more Kolossus and skip the Reckhorn. Its not bad, but its not Kolossus! There is about a sheet and a half inside each door's inner shell, placed strategically.


The rest of my Reckhorn was used on the outer shell. Despite not being as thick and dead as the Knu, Reckhorn has a thick aluminum foil top so it helps fill holes. I added some indentation as I was covering these holes, because the plastic door panel looks like it sinks in just a bit, so I didn't want a massive clearance problem when the door goes back together


The door panel itself didn't seem very resonant in the tap and knocking tests, and it also has good reinforcement all over, so just tiny dabs of deadener across a couple panels was all I felt it needed.


Now this might need some trimming, but I decided to glue on 1/4" Neoprene I got from an order at foamsbymail. We'll see how it goes, I still need to tidy up some holes and build the baffle and foam around that, but this stuff really feels good so far.


I added some very thick, robust foam behind the speaker mount area, it is a gym mat type of closed cell PCV/NBR, figured it may help dissipate the rear wave some.


That's it for now, just a couple hours after work is all I get in the week days.

Special thanks to all of the industry experts that share their knowledge here on the forum
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Old 03-09-2017   #14
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Default Re: 2017 Colorado Crew cab build

I know those feels! Lol.

I bought extra metal clips because once they're pulled off they don't hold like they do when new. It's not a big deal but it's always nice to have extras.


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Old 03-09-2017   #15
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Default Re: 2017 Colorado Crew cab build

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I know those feels! Lol.

I bought extra metal clips because once they're pulled off they don't hold like they do when new. It's not a big deal but it's always nice to have extras.


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I may do that. As good as the interior panels were behaving and coming apart with no damage and no stress, silly me I thought the doors would keep the trend. NOPE!

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Old 03-09-2017   #16
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Default Re: 2017 Colorado Crew cab build

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Originally Posted by fourthmeal View Post
I may do that. As good as the interior panels were behaving and coming apart with no damage and no stress, silly me I thought the doors would keep the trend. NOPE!
Haha, that's what I thought. The good thing is that the rest of the vehicle is pretty simple. The b-pillars are a pain too actually, that's another spot that I found with rattling issues. Other than that the truck is quiet overall.

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Old 03-10-2017   #17
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Default Re: 2017 Colorado Crew cab build

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Originally Posted by beerdrnkr View Post
Haha, that's what I thought. The good thing is that the rest of the vehicle is pretty simple. The b-pillars are a pain too actually, that's another spot that I found with rattling issues. Other than that the truck is quiet overall.

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I decided to buy more Kolossus, and before the truck goes back together, hit more plastic panels, double-up on some lightly deadened areas, improve everywhere I dare to reach. Mostly because I never want to get into these doors again!

My take on the Reckhorn...ain't bad but it ain't Kolossus. It wasn't a waste of money but it wasn't better than any other 80 mil type product. Being on a roll was helpful in some ways but dumb in others.

I did want to try STFU v2 but I figured I already invested big in foams so a CCF-laden material wouldn't pay off for me. But STFU looks really nice.

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Old 03-10-2017   #18
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Default Re: 2017 Colorado Crew cab build

I got my replacement tweeters in and installed the driver pillar, so the front dash stage parts are done. Can add a pic or two around a pc later.

Ran into trouble with the factory positive battery terminal, trying to unscrew the mounting bolt all the way so I could add a ring terminal. Stripped the damn thing. Ordered a mil spec type terminal and will remake the setup from the terminal to the integrated main fuse pack. Just an annoyance.

Oh and I ordered the Metra 6x9 adapter baffles. I'll see if they are good enough but they were only 10 bucks while doing my other Amazon order.

Now we wait some more

edit: added some pics


And this is the damn battery cable that will need to be replaced. Stupid design, the nut won't fully back off (on mine at least), and it stripped. A mil-spec one will replace this junker.

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Old 03-12-2017   #19
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Default Re: 2017 Colorado Crew cab build

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Originally Posted by fourthmeal View Post
I decided to buy more Kolossus, and before the truck goes back together, hit more plastic panels, double-up on some lightly deadened areas, improve everywhere I dare to reach. Mostly because I never want to get into these doors again!

My take on the Reckhorn...ain't bad but it ain't Kolossus. It wasn't a waste of money but it wasn't better than any other 80 mil type product. Being on a roll was helpful in some ways but dumb in others.

I did want to try STFU v2 but I figured I already invested big in foams so a CCF-laden material wouldn't pay off for me. But STFU looks really nice.
I've always been partial to Raamat and ensolite myself but that Kolossus deadener looks really good.
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Old 03-12-2017   #20
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Default Re: 2017 Colorado Crew cab build

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Originally Posted by beerdrnkr View Post
I've always been partial to Raamat and ensolite myself but that Kolossus deadener looks really good.
Raam did me wrong, and then good, a few times. I have a couple instances when I ordered BXTII but it had too much asphalt in it, and later down the road had to deal with horrible messes. A new replacement order of BXTII new true-butyl formulation fixed that up. I've learned it is nothing close to Kolossus or SDS tiles. 2STF's epic CLD thread has proof but my own experience mirrors his... BXTII is not competitive with Kolossus or SDS.

I still routinely order P&S Ensolite from their website though. Nothing beats it in certain situations.

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Old 03-12-2017   #21
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Default Re: 2017 Colorado Crew cab build

OK so Saturday I was down, but Sunday I managed to squeak in a couple hours and I got something done. First thing, my aftermarket battery terminal came in! For anybody following along or gathering ideas, heed this... get a Fastronix Mil-Spec battery terminal. Just get one. It works! You may be able to lop off the factory lug and just crimp/solder on a ring terminal to install it to the replacement battery terminal. If not, just get some 2 gauge battery cable and chop it up and use that, which is what I did.


I slipped my 4 gauge power wire on one side of the terminal, and the way I positioned it, the factory cover still fits over. Its perfect!




Covers fit right over, snaps shut like stock.


I mounted my circuit breaker creatively, by using zip ties, right over a factory connector. It is solid there, doesn't wiggle or slide.



Next up, the driver's door. I added more deadener to the inside of the door shell, about an extra 1/2 sheet of Knu Kolossus. I don't want to get in this door again, so I took no chances. I then lined the outside with peel-and-stick Ensolite.


I added deadener to the Metra adapters. These are pretty nice little units, and even though I was going to make some adapters, these should work equally as well. They have a bit of flex in them but I've got a fix for that coming up


Factory connector with the friction tape unraveled. Driver's door is Blue +, Brown/Blue -


I added my XT60 connector


Connected the ID 6x9


And screwed it in, first putting some Ensolite down as a gasket for the speaker. I had to use a different screw at the bottom right because the Metra plastic stripped a tiny bit on me. A bigger screw size got it done.


To stop the flex in the adapter, I added Kolossus strips around the adapter and the door, which solidified the mount.

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Old 03-12-2017   #22
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Default Re: 2017 Colorado Crew cab build

Now with the speaker mounted, I set out to install the door panel. First, I had to slice up my Neoprene, because this rod right here has to move freely, to let the truck lock and unlock. Whoops!


These infernal clips at the top of the door that hold the window sash and the door together...they are going to be the death of me! I can't get the door back together with the sash attached to the door, and these clips are extremely hard to get loose.



It took this to get each one free


I marked the location of each one on the sash, so I can mount this to the door. They keep falling out.


Crisis averted, the dash and these damn clips are back on the door.


Hours pass, but I got the door 100% back together, and I didn't even forget to plug a wire in! OR did I? Well we'll find out in a couple days if I forgot, but I think I got them all.


That was definitely enough for tonight. I cannot stress how dysfunctional of a door panel removal this is compared to a "normal" door. Those sash clips refuse to dismount from the door without pressure on the top of them to release, but you can get to the top side with the door panel installed. SO, unless I missed something, you have to rip the sash off during the uninstall and then reattach the sash during the install, first. And oh, none of this, not a single word, is in the factory service manual for 2017.

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Old 03-12-2017   #23
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Default Re: 2017 Colorado Crew cab build

Yeah those little clips can be a real PITA. I typically use a pair of pliers to remove them from the door. If that door is the same as mine, then to put them back on, you put the clips onto the door frame, the put the door card back on, and then slide the rubber window seal back into place.

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Old 03-13-2017   #24
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Default Re: 2017 Colorado Crew cab build

This might be different but it doesn't look that way. A lot of newer Chevy's have those clips across the top. I learned my less the first time I did it. You should be able to pull straight out and it will be smooth sailing.
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Old 03-13-2017   #25
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Default Re: 2017 Colorado Crew cab build

Page 8-9 shows how to re-install the door card.

http://www.sdtrucksprings.com/instru.../75154-01A.pdf

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