Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 05-15-2008   #51
 
DIYMA freshman
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Melbourne, Florida
Posts: 73

Rep Power: 75 ianbiz will become famous soon enoughianbiz will become famous soon enoughianbiz will become famous soon enoughianbiz will become famous soon enoughianbiz will become famous soon enoughianbiz will become famous soon enough

Send a message via AIM to ianbiz

iTrader: (0)



Default Re: 2007 Ford F-350 crew cab build

Nice amps!
ianbiz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2008   #52
 
nabot49's Avatar
 
DIYMA freshman
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: windermere, fl
Posts: 14

Rep Power: 0 nabot49 will become famous soon enoughnabot49 will become famous soon enoughnabot49 will become famous soon enoughnabot49 will become famous soon enoughnabot49 will become famous soon enoughnabot49 will become famous soon enough


iTrader: (0)



Default Re: 2007 Ford F-350 crew cab build

I like how it all came out, although I would suggest getting trying a eD slim 10 inch sub...
nabot49 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2008   #53
 
DIYMA Novice
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: NJ
Posts: 458

Rep Power: 80 mooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enough


iTrader: (2)



Default Re: 2007 Ford F-350 crew cab build

An update on this weekend's progress...

Ordered the 2008 Superduty tweeter pods early last week and they arrived on Friday.

Part numbers were 7C3Z-17K709-DA and 7C3Z-17K709-CA. There are the tweeter pods + tweeter for the 2008 trucks with the nav system and are about $40 each.

I removed the Ford tweeter and installed the Alpine; took some creativity to figure out how to mount it. I experimented with positioning. The are a slight bit off-axis, pointing away and to the front. On-axis was driving the stage to the left considerably, presumably due to the separation between the mid and tweeter and the passive setup.

The Alpine SPX-17REF tweeters are definitely more mellow, even in this position, than I had expected. Everything I've read about these and the PRO tweets implied that they would be a softer sound but I may need to do some EQ on the upper end to brighten them up just a hair. I've left the crossover at 0 db for now, although I might bring it down to -1.5 to better balance them with the mids (this seems to have the added benefit of driving the stage to the right a bit, too).

Hit a major snag this weekend, too. I had always been hearing a buzzing noise from the crossovers that I thought was related to the fact that I had not completed any dampening of the doors. Started the dampening process and found out that it's not really panel vibration causing the crossover buzzing...

The Alpine crossovers actually appear to have something loose within the case. I'm not sure if it's the circuit board which is loose from the case or something (like one of the coils) loose on the circuit board itself. Even unmounted, if I hold it in my hand and tap on the crossover case, I hear the vibration. Moving the crossover away from the mid might help the resonance, but due to the limitations I've put on the wiring and mounting for the crossover, I'm not intending to go that route just yet.

I will plan to get in touch with Alpine tomorrow to see if this is perhaps a defect.

Pictures soon. And I would appreciate any thoughts on the buzzing crossovers.

Thanks.

Last edited by mooch91; 05-18-2008 at 10:26 AM..
mooch91 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2008   #54
 
DIYMA Novice
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: NJ
Posts: 458

Rep Power: 80 mooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enough


iTrader: (2)



Default Re: 2007 Ford F-350 crew cab build

Another update, just cleaning up...

Fixed the problem with the crossovers. The circuit board appeared to have been rattling against the case and the tweeter protection bulbs were rattling against the circuit boards. Disassembled the crossovers and added a little bit of vinyl weatherstripping tape which resolved the problem.

Now the rest of my work is just cleanup.

The 2008 Superduty tweeter pods:


With Apline SPX-17REF tweeter installed:


Tweeter pod test fit:


Deadening the doors. I chose to place the deadener stategically and not seal the doors. Superduty pickups have a characteristic problem with scratched glass due to the window seals and since it's only a year old and I've started to notice some scratches, Ford will be in there to replace the glass before the warranty is out.






Here you can see the cuts required to install the 2008 Superduty tweeter pods:


Reinstalling moisture barrier:


mooch91 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2008   #55
 
DIYMA Novice
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: NJ
Posts: 458

Rep Power: 80 mooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enough


iTrader: (2)



Default

Same for the driver's side:




Speakers were way too visible through the door panel:




A little gray grille cloth from Parts Express, hot glued to the inside of the door panel, did the trick. Bought the black too, but with the aluminum cone on the speaker and the transparency of the cloth, it still showed through. It's barely visible with the gray and it blends with the panel very well:




Can't see through any more!


There was also a hole in the carpet underneath the back seat because I removed the fold-out package shelf to install my amps. Covered the hole neatly with a couple of washers epoxied together and painted flat black. This gets capped by a piece of trim:

Last edited by mooch91; 05-22-2008 at 08:50 PM..
mooch91 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2008   #56
 
DIYMA Novice
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: NJ
Posts: 458

Rep Power: 80 mooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enough


iTrader: (2)



Default Re: 2007 Ford F-350 crew cab build

Remaining to do is re-install the door panels and find a creative way to fill a gap in the door panel where the new tweeter pod meets the gray panel. It's a small gap that's visible in the pictures silverdiesel posted above, but it's bothering me to know it's there. I posted a separate thread in the fabrication forum to see if there were any ideas for filling it in, but I haven't found a neat one I'm capable of trying. I will post some finished pictures once done.

Thanks for the support and suggestions along the way!
mooch91 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2008   #57
Upgrade Your Membership!
 
DIYMA Novice
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Wet Coast, Canada
Age: 50
Posts: 282

Rep Power: 94 Sr SQ will become famous soon enoughSr SQ will become famous soon enoughSr SQ will become famous soon enoughSr SQ will become famous soon enoughSr SQ will become famous soon enoughSr SQ will become famous soon enough


iTrader: (18)



Default Re: 2007 Ford F-350 crew cab build

Very nice work!

Alpine 9861/H700~HAT L1/L3~JBL 2118~IDQ 15D2~ARC XXK 2500/4150/2100/4050
Sr SQ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2008   #58
 
DIYMA freshman
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Thousand Jokes, Ca
Age: 34
Posts: 152

Rep Power: 89 piston will become famous soon enoughpiston will become famous soon enoughpiston will become famous soon enoughpiston will become famous soon enoughpiston will become famous soon enoughpiston will become famous soon enough


iTrader: (11)



Default Re: 2007 Ford F-350 crew cab build

Looking good. If remember right you can get wiring thru the molex on the doors. It takes time, but do able. Back when I worked at a shop this is the work that I did on super dutys.

http://auto-essentials.com/installs/ford.aspx

You can actually fit a decent sub behind the back seat, you just have to build it right.

Jason
piston is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2008   #59
 
DIYMA Novice
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: NJ
Posts: 458

Rep Power: 80 mooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enough


iTrader: (2)



Default Re: 2007 Ford F-350 crew cab build

Wanted to put together an update on my install.

Some may remember that I was fretting over the cleanliness of the tweeter pods I chose to install to mount my Alpine Type X tweeters. I finally figured out how to get rid of an unsightly gap between the pod and the door panel.

Here is a shot of the "gap" on the drivers' side:


And a shot of the same on the other side:


Separated one of the horizontal supports on the back of the tweeter pod and got creative with a couple of strips of 1/4" MDF:


Now they sit such that they cover up the gap on the door panel:




The pictures don't do them justice, but I think they look quite finished and the lines blend well with the door panel.

Last edited by mooch91; 06-09-2008 at 07:29 PM..
mooch91 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2008   #60
 
DIYMA Novice
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: NJ
Posts: 458

Rep Power: 80 mooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enough


iTrader: (2)



Default Re: 2007 Ford F-350 crew cab build

Fabricated some mounts for the Alpine 1" tweets that would use the existing Ford mounting holes on the underside of the tweeter pod. This had the advantage of positioning the tweets a bit more on-axis than the quick-fix setup I had been using. Used 1/8" ABS sheets which scores and snaps very easily to make basic shapes.





mooch91 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2008   #61
 
DIYMA Novice
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: NJ
Posts: 458

Rep Power: 80 mooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enough


iTrader: (2)



Default Re: 2007 Ford F-350 crew cab build

I have been so stuck on the tuning and adjusting at this point. I had no idea that a simple passive setup would be so difficult! I've spent almost every night listening, driving, adjusting, and listening.

Brought the tweeters down -3 db each side; set the levels with pink noise. I had no idea how overwhelming they were until I got them right.

Inverted polarity on the drivers' side tweet in an effort to drive the stage a bit to the center of the dash. Tried inverting polarity on one of the mids; had a great effect on the stage but lost all semblance of midbass. Switching the phase on the tweeter is an attempt to compromise.

Crossed the sub currently at 60 Hz, with the mids at 80 Hz, 12 db/oct. Tweeters and mids are crossed per the passive setup. Brought the midrange down at 1.5 kHz by -1 db and boosted the highs at 12.5 kHz by a couple of db. All bass boost off at the amp, but subsonic filter is on at 30 Hz due to the ported sub setup.

High end is very mellow on these Alpines, almost too mellow for my taste, hence the reason they're boosted up a bit.

Rear speakers are, for all practical purposes, faded out at the moment.

I'm having a real hard time integrating the sub right now. I had it crossed at 80 Hz and found it overwhelming in the midbass, so I am trying to gap the crossover to alleviate this. I'm finding that I could really use a remote bass level control as I listen to such a variety of music that I cannot leave the sub at one constant level. I've been all over the spectrum with my tuning CDs and find that this is the adjustment I tweak the most. Tried crossing both the sub and mids at closer to 60 Hz, but was concerned about longevity of the Alpines at this setting. 24 db/oct did not seem to be a good slope at any crossover point.

The hardest part about the tuning is that I'm not schooled enough in SQ to determine if things sound good or if I have more work to do.

If there are any fellow NJ DIYMA'ers who would care to audition their SQ system or assist with the tuning of mine some weeknight or Saturday, it would be appreciated.
mooch91 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2008   #62
 
DIYMA freshman
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Mass
Posts: 248

Rep Power: 83 jdc753 will become famous soon enoughjdc753 will become famous soon enoughjdc753 will become famous soon enoughjdc753 will become famous soon enoughjdc753 will become famous soon enoughjdc753 will become famous soon enough


iTrader: (0)



Default Re: 2007 Ford F-350 crew cab build

I just read through all the posts in the thread and looks like some good work on the truck. It really is a shame with such a large cab you would think it would be more installer friendly than it is. Looks like you were able to manage pretty good though.

Glad to see the part number for the 08 sail panel posted too, I tried in vain for a while to get the part number at my local Ford dealer but they didn't seem to be of any help in finding them.

I love your wiring work very clean. Makes my wiring look like a 5 year old did it. I am very glad my truck didn't have those pesky molex plugs in the doors though, I was able to fish all my speaker wire in through the door boot, even a large coax cable for my CB antennas that I have mounted up on the mirrors was able to fit through the boot with the end on it and all.

I think I am pretty much in the same boat as you, trying to tune everything. This is really my first SQ install so I don't know exactly what I am looking/listening for. My dad is pretty well versed as he does the sound for a lot of live concerts and such so I have had him playing some tracks he is very familiar with and doing some tuning. I thought I had it sounding pretty good but seems lately the more I listen to it the worse it is getting lol.

I wish I could help you more with the tuning but it sounds like you are on the right track and such. As my dad puts it you gotta just keep on turning knobs till you find the right sound. So thats pretty much what I have been doing and fiddling with the tweeter placement. I am starting to think much of my bad sound is coming from not having time alignment as the highs are starting to get really seperated from the mids with the tweeters on axis now.

Good luck on the rest of the tuning and I hope you can figure it out. You mentioned having more finished pics. I would love to see them if you get the time to post them.
jdc753 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2009   #63
 
DIYMA Novice
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: NJ
Posts: 458

Rep Power: 80 mooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enough


iTrader: (2)



Default Re: 2007 Ford F-350 crew cab build

Wow, almost a year since I started this build and I'm still working on it...

I've spent much of the year on tuning. I've posted some other threads about integratin the sub (which has been particularly difficult) and I think I've found the Alpines a bit more mellow than I had originally expected. I did go in to this install in the pursuit of SQ and I think I'm coming out of it realizing that SQ might be a little flat for my tastes.

In any case, I'm going back and cleaning up some things I missed on the first go-round. This weekend was dampening of the doors and replacing the black plastic adapter plates that came with the Alpine SPX-17REF set with nicer birch adapters.

The old plastic ones:


The custom ones, 1/2" birch ply (a woodworker I am not; used the plastic ones as templates for these, obviously):


Driver's door:




Passenger's door:




Hoping that better dampening on the doors gives me the ability to better blend my sub to the front stage.

On tap is to remove the sub and Dynamat the entire back wall of the truck. Also to find a better way to seal up the one-way vent that was removed to make way for the sub (right now it's just covered with a layer of Dynamat, collecting road dirt on the back side).
mooch91 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2009   #64
 
DIYMA Novice
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: NJ
Posts: 458

Rep Power: 80 mooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enough


iTrader: (2)



Default Re: 2007 Ford F-350 crew cab build

OK, this weekend started version 1.1 of my build.

First thing done: bridge the JL Audio 300/4 amp to 150x2 to power the front speakers. I've had it set up as 75x4, but the rears have been turned so far down that all I've been doing has been wasting the power. I'm committed to no rear speakers now (never invested in them anyway), so the amp was re-wired to support the bridged output. Y-adapters behind the head unit (not pictured) and conversion of speaker wires to L-R only (instead of F-R).



Played it a bit in bridged mode--definitely a noticeable difference in range on the front speakers (Alpine SPX-17REF); they don't sound so much like they're straining when the volume is raised any more. Needed to do some adjustments to the amps to balance things again.

Now the real reason I chose to tear things apart this weekend was to fix some issues I've had since I started the install a year ago.

I've been disappointed with the low end on the system for a while and had been complaining about how the sub was not integrating very well. Where I really noticed the issues was at higher volumes (to be expected--that's where things start to fall apart with clipping, max excursion, etc.). But I was also hearing things that didn't sound like a speaker at its limits.

Looking behind the seat where the sub is mounted, I had been noticing indentation from the sub driver:



You can see the imprint goes beyond the surround and does have some cone in it (Pioneer shallow 12"). I'm pretty sure that some of the "distortion" I've been hearing has been the cone of the sub vibrating against the seat back. Although the box was designed specifically for the truck, I think it's just close enough to be causing problems.

Not quite sure how I'm going to solve this yet, although I'm looking at two things. First would be to shim the back seat mounts up about 1/4", hopefully raising the angle of the seat back enough to get it off the front of the box. Second is to relocate my ground which is placed immediately below the box (because it was a convenient threaded hole for a bolt:



There's still a big body bolt to the right of the ground so I'm not sure if moving the ground will make a huge difference, but it does probably sit 1/8" higher than the body bolt. Plus I liked not having to tap any new holes for ground (no noise evident after a year of listening).

Finally, it's time to figure out what to do with the vent that had to be removed to fit the sub:





The layer of Dynamat placed over the hole is tacky (both figuratively and literally as the adhesive back side is exposed on the exterior of the truck). It's not showing any signs of water entry like some other have observed, but I'm looking for a more elegant solution. I've got a post in the General forum looking for ideas.

Beyond this, three other things to do now that the back seat is back out:
1. Deaden the back wall of the truck.
2. Remove the rear speakers completely.
3. Also find a way to silence the other cab vent that buzzes worse than any panel vibration when the bass hits.
mooch91 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-01-2009   #65
 
DIYMA Novice
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: NJ
Posts: 458

Rep Power: 80 mooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enough


iTrader: (2)



Default Re: 2007 Ford F-350 crew cab build

So far, version 1.1 has been a disaster.

I've got about 20 hours in to some rework at the back of the truck that has not yet solved any issues I had previously, and have actually generated some new ones.

I did get the amp bridged. Check.

I started by trying to re-seal one of the cab vents on the back wall of the cab and trying to "silence" the other that was making some awful buzzing noises (see thread in the General forum discussing the same).

First to seal the one cab vent a bit better. After a year, it was clear that the Dynamat applied directly over the approximately 3x5" hole was holding fine. No evidence of water in.

[

What was bad, though, was the way it was picking up dirt on the adhesive on the exterior. So I cut a piece of ABS approximately the size of the hole, just a little smaller:



Stuck it to the back side of a sheet of Dynamat:



And fit it squarely in the opening. I made sure that there was good butyl adhesive contact right at the edge to allow for a weather-tight seal:




Last edited by mooch91; 06-01-2009 at 08:40 PM..
mooch91 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-01-2009   #66
 
DIYMA Novice
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: NJ
Posts: 458

Rep Power: 80 mooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enough


iTrader: (2)



Default Re: 2007 Ford F-350 crew cab build

Tried silencing the buzzing that the other vent made, but failed here.

Applied two layers of fabric (bedsheet, as recommended in another thread) over the vent and buried it in the dampener. Hoped this would slow the air flow and muffle any sound the rubber flaps made:



Unfortunately, pressure in the cab got uncomfortably high when the A/C was on its highest fan setting. I think because I removed the one vent, the second one became that much more important. I wasn't comfortable leaving it muffled and took it off, leaving the vent open. I added extra sound deadening around the vent in the hope that panel vibration was causing the flaps to vibrate, but it doesn't take much to get the vent flaps buzzing.

Oh well, can't win 'em all.
mooch91 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-01-2009   #67
 
DIYMA Novice
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: NJ
Posts: 458

Rep Power: 80 mooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enough


iTrader: (2)



Default Re: 2007 Ford F-350 crew cab build

Here's where it started to get ugly and where I could have spent my time better doing something else.

One of my other goals of tearing the back of the truck apart was to minimize contact between the sub and the back of my seat. I figured I'd do two things: remove the ground situated under the sub enclosure since I figured it was pushing the sub up, and shim the seat up.

I was real proud of the two new grounds I selected for the amps:





Spent the next couple of hours getting the seats back in (late on a Saturday night with no one around to help and they didn't "fit" as easy as they did the last time, trying to get them in around the amps).

Apparently, the grounds checked out OK with my DMM when I tested them, but the one on the sub amp just disappeared after I started testing the system. Got the DMM back out and found "open leads" when I re-tested it. Came to realize that the threaded holes I selected were actually rivets in the chassis and were insulated by a small rubber gasket (probably why the ground was intermittently good). Probably the worst ground selection I could have made.
mooch91 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-01-2009   #68
 
DIYMA Novice
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: NJ
Posts: 458

Rep Power: 80 mooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enough


iTrader: (2)



Default Re: 2007 Ford F-350 crew cab build

On top of that, shimming up the seat had another consequence. My amps are mounted through the carpet to a 1/4" MDF sheet under each (to avoid screwing directly in to the floor). Now that the seat is shimmed up about 1/4" in the back (used unistrut washers to shim), the carpet is no longer as taut to the floor and the amps are actually free to rattle.

Unfortunately, the whole back seat needs to come out again to fix the grounds and better secure the amps. And I'm pretty sure I haven't yet gained enough clearance at the seat back to completely keep the fabric off the cone of my sub.

Arrrrgh!
mooch91 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-01-2009   #69
 
DIYMA Novice
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: NJ
Posts: 458

Rep Power: 80 mooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enough


iTrader: (2)



Default Re: 2007 Ford F-350 crew cab build

One positive so far from the re-work. I had the amps screwed in to the MDF boards with black oxide sheet metal screws. Look what I found under the sub amp:



Yep, that's a hole in the speaker wire to the sub. As careful as I was during the first reassembly, I did pierce the speaker wire. Clearance along the seat track for the sub amp is TIGHT, so I'm surprised this was the only error I had. Amazingly, I pierced it right between the two conductors and never broke the insulation to the conductors themselves.

Replaced the sheet metal screws holding the amps to the MDF with machine screws and nuts.

Last edited by mooch91; 06-01-2009 at 08:58 PM..
mooch91 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2009   #70
 
DIYMA freshman
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: PAC NW
Posts: 30

Rep Power: 58 megabutler will become famous soon enoughmegabutler will become famous soon enoughmegabutler will become famous soon enoughmegabutler will become famous soon enoughmegabutler will become famous soon enoughmegabutler will become famous soon enough


iTrader: (0)



Default Re: 2007 Ford F-350 crew cab build

Awesome documentation! I too have an F-150 albeit a '96 and a regular cab but I too have the 12" Pioneer TS-SW3041d installed. I too have imaging issues because of the placement of the bench seat in relation to the subwoofers excursion. I actually have a 10db increase when I open the doors and crank it, but how practical is that? For what I need it for- day to day drive to work and the occasional Friday night at the drive-in, works perfectly for me. I love it!
megabutler is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-08-2010   #71
 
DIYMA freshman
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: CA
Posts: 22

Rep Power: 0 madweazl will become famous soon enoughmadweazl will become famous soon enoughmadweazl will become famous soon enoughmadweazl will become famous soon enoughmadweazl will become famous soon enoughmadweazl will become famous soon enough


iTrader: (0)



Default Re: 2007 Ford F-350 crew cab build

Anymore progress? I'm about to start an install in an '06 crew cab so I'm very interested in your progress.
madweazl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-21-2012   #72
 
DIYMA Novice
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: NJ
Posts: 458

Rep Power: 80 mooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enough


iTrader: (2)



Default Re: 2007 Ford F-350 crew cab build

Quote:
Originally Posted by madweazl View Post
Anymore progress? I'm about to start an install in an '06 crew cab so I'm very interested in your progress.
It's been a while.

Over the past few months, the F-350 has become a daily driver for me and I've had a lot more time spent listening and adjusting. After four years, I'm still not entirely happy with the system, but I continue to make changes and tweaks.

I'll share some of my new changes shortly!
mooch91 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2012   #73
Upgrade Your Membership!
 
DIYMA Novice
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Des Moines IA
Posts: 252

Rep Power: 43 aj1735 will become famous soon enoughaj1735 will become famous soon enoughaj1735 will become famous soon enoughaj1735 will become famous soon enoughaj1735 will become famous soon enoughaj1735 will become famous soon enough


iTrader: (21)



Default Re: 2007 Ford F-350 crew cab build

Quote:
Originally Posted by piston View Post
Looking good. If remember right you can get wiring thru the molex on the doors. It takes time, but do able. Back when I worked at a shop this is the work that I did on super dutys.

Ford Installs | Vehicle Installs ~ Auto Essentials Inc.

You can actually fit a decent sub behind the back seat, you just have to build it right.

Jason
Did you make the tweeter pods yourself or someone else in the shop? Do they sell them? I have spx17pro tweets that I want to put in mine, but I need to make them. I picked up a couple sets of stock covers from the salvage yard but I'm not really good at that stuff. What would you charge to make a set? I could send you my tweets and sail panels. I am going to install it all in a 01 f350 crew cab dually with the 7.3. Let me know. Thanks.
aj1735 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2012   #74
 
DIYMA Novice
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: NJ
Posts: 458

Rep Power: 80 mooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enough


iTrader: (2)



Default Re: 2007 Ford F-350 crew cab build

Quote:
Originally Posted by aj1735 View Post
Did you make the tweeter pods yourself or someone else in the shop? Do they sell them? I have spx17pro tweets that I want to put in mine, but I need to make them. I picked up a couple sets of stock covers from the salvage yard but I'm not really good at that stuff. What would you charge to make a set? I could send you my tweets and sail panels. I am going to install it all in a 01 f350 crew cab dually with the 7.3. Let me know. Thanks.
I suspect you're asking about the pods in the quoted link and not the ones I used (mine are the 08 sail panels with OEM tweeters removed). You may want to email Auto Essentials (in the link) to see what they could do for you.

Kenwood DNX7100-RF 3sixty.3-JL Audio 300/4-JL Audio 500/1-Pioneer TS-C720PRS-JL Audio 13TW5v2-2
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...cab-build.html
mooch91 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2012   #75
 
DIYMA Novice
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: NJ
Posts: 458

Rep Power: 80 mooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enoughmooch91 will become famous soon enough


iTrader: (2)



Default Re: 2007 Ford F-350 crew cab build

So over the past three years since I updated this build, a number of things have changed.

First, at some point I blew the woofers on the Alpine SPX-17REF set. I'm not sure if this was a result of the way I was running them, a function of the aluminum woofer cones, or if they were contacting the door panel when installed:





I've had an open return authorization with Alpine to send them back and have them looked at, but I never shipped them out. Knowing they are well out of warranty, I didn't think there's anything they would do about it, but I might just ship them anyway since they're no good as they currently stand.

I ended up at one of my local brick and mortar stores looking for replacements and ended up coming across a set of these:



For better or worse, knowing there was a lot of forum popularity around these speakers when they were first introduced, I figured I'd give them a shot. They were BNIB, heavily discounted, and probably the last pair available in New Jersey.

Kenwood DNX7100-RF 3sixty.3-JL Audio 300/4-JL Audio 500/1-Pioneer TS-C720PRS-JL Audio 13TW5v2-2
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...cab-build.html
mooch91 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
2007 Tundra DC Sub build (56k Beware!) Mirage_Man Build Logs & Project Install Gallery 99 05-11-2010 08:53 PM
Ford Ranger regular cab (1994), Eclipse 12" aluminum cone sub sheepdog Technical & Advanced Car Audio Discussion 10 01-08-2009 06:52 AM
2001 Sonoma Crew Cab - pure SQ setup lightspeed Build Logs & Project Install Gallery 20 04-09-2008 03:15 PM
If you have a GM vehicle and live near SoCal fires.. coffee_junkee Off Topic 10 10-26-2007 10:13 AM
Need Help With Simple System Design: 2007 Dodge Ram Quad Cab guitarman Fabrication, Tools & Tricks of the trade 1 08-18-2007 03:57 PM

» Amps
A/d/s/
Advent
Alphasonik
Alpine
American Bass
ARC Audio
Atomic
Audio Art
Audio Gods
Audiobahn
Audiocontrol
Audiopipe
Audison
Aura
Autotek
Avionixx
Bazooka
Beyma
Blaupunkt
Boss
Boston Acoustics
Bravox
Cadence
Cascade (CAE)
CDT Audio
Cerwin Vega
Clarion
Clif Designs
Concept
Coustic
Critical Mass
Crossfire
Crunch
DB Drive
DC Audio
DC Power
DEI
Denon
Diabolo
Diamond
Digital Designs
Directed
DLS
Dual
DYnamat
Dynaudio
Earthquake
Eclipse
Elemental Designs
ESX
Eton
Farenheit
Fi Car Audio
Focal
Fusion
Genesis
Ground Zero
Hafler
Helix
Hertz
Hifonics
Hushmat
Image Dynamics
Infinity
Interfire
JBL
Jensen
JL Audio
JVC
Kenwood
Kicker
Knu Konceptz
Kole Audio
Kove Audio
Lanzar
Lightning Audio
Linear Power
MA Audio
Magnat
Marantz
Massive Audio
MB Quart
McIntosh
Memphis
Metra
Milbert
MMATS
Mobile Authority
Morel
MTX
Nakamichi
Niche Audio
O2 Audio
Ohio Generator
Optima
Orion
Oxygen Audio
OZ Audio
PG Audio
Phase Linear
Phoenix Gold
Pioneer
Polk
Power Acoustik
Powerbass
Powermaster
Precision Power
Profile
Pyle
Pyramid
RadioShack
Rainbow
Rampage
RE AUdio
Rockford Fosgate
Scanspeak
Scosche
Seas
Sony
soundstream
Sparkomatic
SPL Dynamics
Stinger
Sundown Audio
Swiss Audio
Targa
TC Sounds
TREO Engineering
TRU
Tsunami
Ultimate
US Acoustics
US Amps
Velodyne
Vifa
Viper
Visonik
Xtant
Zapco
Zed Audio
Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:12 PM.


Powered by vBulletin®
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

Ad Management by RedTyger

Meet Our Team | Forum | Privacy and Rules | Advertise | Archive | Search | Contact Us

Home | User CP | Members List | New Posts | ITrader | Faq | Post Spy