I'll go ahead and say it now, that this will be a long, drawn out install process, based on a busy family life and work life, so bear with me, but I wanted to get this started now.
System plan is still developing, but slowly finding direction. Head unit to be Clarion DRZ9255, Amplified by Arc Audio FD4150 & FD4100, playing through Pioneer TS-D1720C components up front, and JBL GTO 1002D sub.
Still unsure on all speaker choices, as well as 2 way front with rear fill versus 3 way front with no rear fill.
PROGRESS TO DATE:
Sub box started by cutting sheet metal between seat mounts. Under the drivers side rear seat on the double cab tundra (1st generation tundras 2000-2006) there is a storage bin built into the sheet metal that is made up of the actual floor of the truck and a raised platform the seats sit onto. The bin is about 0.5 Cubic Feet as it is, but when cutting this 12" section out between the seat mounts, you can gain another 0.25 of usable space for roughly 0.75 cubic feet of sealed space, and mounting size for up to 10" sub, and maybe a 12 if you found the right 12.
Shot showing what metal was cut:
Here the metal has been cut, and a fiberglass mold has been laid. The fiberglass is being marked for cutting:
Here is the mold removed from the truck:
A shop is building this box for me since I've really not the time nor facility to learn the glass work right now. I don't have tabs on their progress yet, other than they have trimmed the box and are preparing to cap with MDF. They also did some color matching of the carpet for the top board.
In the mean time, over memorial day weekend, I did the first phase of the install myself which was to apply raammat and ensolite to the floor of the truck. I gutted the entire floor and side panels to allow access. Here is half of the interior, which I separated to the appropriate side of the truck as I removed it. I also placed small parts into ziplock bags and labeled with a sharpie pen. Lastly, any panel or part that was large was marked with sharpie pen on the back side as to where it went, even down to the smallest detail, like the left and right caps that went onto seat brackets, to make sure they went back to the same spot:
It took me 13 hours to pull the interior, label it, apply raammat in 2 to 5 layers across bottom of floor, then apply 1 layer of ensolite, and put the interior back together. Here are various shots of the inside of the truck during that process:
I circled all the bolt holes with a sharpie pen to make sure I saw them when applying the raammat and so that I didn't accidentally cover one.
Not pictured as my hands just got too sticky to keep touching the camera, are the completed floor and wire routing which included 3 runs of 12 guage knukonceptz wire up each side for active powering of front speakers, as well as 4 two channel knukonceptz krystal 4 meter RCA's and an Arc Audio Bass Knob Wire run right down the middle of the truck.
So basically, I've got speaker wire running up each side, low level signal right down the middle, and Power and Ground will run underneath down the top of the frame rail and up through the rear floor via a gromet.
This is as far as I've gotten to date.
FUTURE PHASES TO COMPLETE:
1.) Amp Mounting Board for rear wall & finish deadning rear wall
2.) Front Door Deadning, sealing & speaker mounting
3.) Rear Door Deadning & Sealing
4.) Head Unit Install
5.) Power & Ground Wire Routing under truck
6.) Fire it up and start tuning
THINGS LEARNED SO FAR:
1.) When working with butyl based deadner, store it indoors before use and it will be less sticky.
2.) Do deadning in the morning while the temperature is lower, to avoid stickyness.
3.) Apply aluminum based tape to all seams in your deadner for a cleaner install with less chance of tracking the butyl to your interior.
4.) Goo Gone, followed by GoJo, seems to be most effective at removing the butyl from your hands.
5.) Spraying Oxyclean pretreat onto your clothes before washing seems to be most effective at removing the butyl from your clothes.
I'll post more pics as I complete future phases.
Regards and thanks for looking.
System plan is still developing, but slowly finding direction. Head unit to be Clarion DRZ9255, Amplified by Arc Audio FD4150 & FD4100, playing through Pioneer TS-D1720C components up front, and JBL GTO 1002D sub.
Still unsure on all speaker choices, as well as 2 way front with rear fill versus 3 way front with no rear fill.
PROGRESS TO DATE:
Sub box started by cutting sheet metal between seat mounts. Under the drivers side rear seat on the double cab tundra (1st generation tundras 2000-2006) there is a storage bin built into the sheet metal that is made up of the actual floor of the truck and a raised platform the seats sit onto. The bin is about 0.5 Cubic Feet as it is, but when cutting this 12" section out between the seat mounts, you can gain another 0.25 of usable space for roughly 0.75 cubic feet of sealed space, and mounting size for up to 10" sub, and maybe a 12 if you found the right 12.
Shot showing what metal was cut:
Here the metal has been cut, and a fiberglass mold has been laid. The fiberglass is being marked for cutting:
Here is the mold removed from the truck:
A shop is building this box for me since I've really not the time nor facility to learn the glass work right now. I don't have tabs on their progress yet, other than they have trimmed the box and are preparing to cap with MDF. They also did some color matching of the carpet for the top board.
In the mean time, over memorial day weekend, I did the first phase of the install myself which was to apply raammat and ensolite to the floor of the truck. I gutted the entire floor and side panels to allow access. Here is half of the interior, which I separated to the appropriate side of the truck as I removed it. I also placed small parts into ziplock bags and labeled with a sharpie pen. Lastly, any panel or part that was large was marked with sharpie pen on the back side as to where it went, even down to the smallest detail, like the left and right caps that went onto seat brackets, to make sure they went back to the same spot:
It took me 13 hours to pull the interior, label it, apply raammat in 2 to 5 layers across bottom of floor, then apply 1 layer of ensolite, and put the interior back together. Here are various shots of the inside of the truck during that process:
I circled all the bolt holes with a sharpie pen to make sure I saw them when applying the raammat and so that I didn't accidentally cover one.
Not pictured as my hands just got too sticky to keep touching the camera, are the completed floor and wire routing which included 3 runs of 12 guage knukonceptz wire up each side for active powering of front speakers, as well as 4 two channel knukonceptz krystal 4 meter RCA's and an Arc Audio Bass Knob Wire run right down the middle of the truck.
So basically, I've got speaker wire running up each side, low level signal right down the middle, and Power and Ground will run underneath down the top of the frame rail and up through the rear floor via a gromet.
This is as far as I've gotten to date.
FUTURE PHASES TO COMPLETE:
1.) Amp Mounting Board for rear wall & finish deadning rear wall
2.) Front Door Deadning, sealing & speaker mounting
3.) Rear Door Deadning & Sealing
4.) Head Unit Install
5.) Power & Ground Wire Routing under truck
6.) Fire it up and start tuning
THINGS LEARNED SO FAR:
1.) When working with butyl based deadner, store it indoors before use and it will be less sticky.
2.) Do deadning in the morning while the temperature is lower, to avoid stickyness.
3.) Apply aluminum based tape to all seams in your deadner for a cleaner install with less chance of tracking the butyl to your interior.
4.) Goo Gone, followed by GoJo, seems to be most effective at removing the butyl from your hands.
5.) Spraying Oxyclean pretreat onto your clothes before washing seems to be most effective at removing the butyl from your clothes.
I'll post more pics as I complete future phases.
Regards and thanks for looking.