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2006 Toyota Tundra Double Cab - My Install Log

42K views 151 replies 25 participants last post by  txbonds 
#1 · (Edited)
I'll go ahead and say it now, that this will be a long, drawn out install process, based on a busy family life and work life, so bear with me, but I wanted to get this started now.

System plan is still developing, but slowly finding direction. Head unit to be Clarion DRZ9255, Amplified by Arc Audio FD4150 & FD4100, playing through Pioneer TS-D1720C components up front, and JBL GTO 1002D sub.

Still unsure on all speaker choices, as well as 2 way front with rear fill versus 3 way front with no rear fill.


PROGRESS TO DATE:

Sub box started by cutting sheet metal between seat mounts. Under the drivers side rear seat on the double cab tundra (1st generation tundras 2000-2006) there is a storage bin built into the sheet metal that is made up of the actual floor of the truck and a raised platform the seats sit onto. The bin is about 0.5 Cubic Feet as it is, but when cutting this 12" section out between the seat mounts, you can gain another 0.25 of usable space for roughly 0.75 cubic feet of sealed space, and mounting size for up to 10" sub, and maybe a 12 if you found the right 12.

Shot showing what metal was cut:


Here the metal has been cut, and a fiberglass mold has been laid. The fiberglass is being marked for cutting:


Here is the mold removed from the truck:


A shop is building this box for me since I've really not the time nor facility to learn the glass work right now. I don't have tabs on their progress yet, other than they have trimmed the box and are preparing to cap with MDF. They also did some color matching of the carpet for the top board.

In the mean time, over memorial day weekend, I did the first phase of the install myself which was to apply raammat and ensolite to the floor of the truck. I gutted the entire floor and side panels to allow access. Here is half of the interior, which I separated to the appropriate side of the truck as I removed it. I also placed small parts into ziplock bags and labeled with a sharpie pen. Lastly, any panel or part that was large was marked with sharpie pen on the back side as to where it went, even down to the smallest detail, like the left and right caps that went onto seat brackets, to make sure they went back to the same spot:


It took me 13 hours to pull the interior, label it, apply raammat in 2 to 5 layers across bottom of floor, then apply 1 layer of ensolite, and put the interior back together. Here are various shots of the inside of the truck during that process:

I circled all the bolt holes with a sharpie pen to make sure I saw them when applying the raammat and so that I didn't accidentally cover one.







Not pictured as my hands just got too sticky to keep touching the camera, are the completed floor and wire routing which included 3 runs of 12 guage knukonceptz wire up each side for active powering of front speakers, as well as 4 two channel knukonceptz krystal 4 meter RCA's and an Arc Audio Bass Knob Wire run right down the middle of the truck.

So basically, I've got speaker wire running up each side, low level signal right down the middle, and Power and Ground will run underneath down the top of the frame rail and up through the rear floor via a gromet.

This is as far as I've gotten to date.

FUTURE PHASES TO COMPLETE:
1.) Amp Mounting Board for rear wall & finish deadning rear wall
2.) Front Door Deadning, sealing & speaker mounting
3.) Rear Door Deadning & Sealing
4.) Head Unit Install
5.) Power & Ground Wire Routing under truck
6.) Fire it up and start tuning

THINGS LEARNED SO FAR:
1.) When working with butyl based deadner, store it indoors before use and it will be less sticky.
2.) Do deadning in the morning while the temperature is lower, to avoid stickyness.
3.) Apply aluminum based tape to all seams in your deadner for a cleaner install with less chance of tracking the butyl to your interior.
4.) Goo Gone, followed by GoJo, seems to be most effective at removing the butyl from your hands.
5.) Spraying Oxyclean pretreat onto your clothes before washing seems to be most effective at removing the butyl from your clothes.


I'll post more pics as I complete future phases.

Regards and thanks for looking.
 
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#5 ·
Thanks for the comments. It's been a slow process so far as I rarely get any time to work on it, but I'm pleased with what I've done so far. As soon as I can track down my second amp, I'll begin looking at how to mount them in the rear, and also will focus on finishing that rear wall and power wiring, so that I'll be left with doors and headunit.

I'm waiting on someone to send me pics on what may be my second amp though, so we will see as soon as I get some pics of it.
 
#6 ·
It looks like a good start. I'm looking forward to seeing this build. I've been considering selling my Navigator and replacing it with a Tundra. Good luck with the install.
 
#7 ·
It looks like a good start. I might be a little worried about cutting that metal out for the sub enclosure. It looked like a structural piece to me. I could be wrong though.
Thats what I thought too at first, but I've put as much force as I can apply to it and it seems to be holding strong. My other thought was to come back and put a brace back in on the ends to cap and replicate what was removed.

I'm playing it by ear, but so far I don't think it's going anywhere as there is still boxed metal under each bracket.
 
#8 ·
Very nice start. I have a 2006 Tundra Double Cab also. I paid to have a complete system put in by a local shop, and they did a very nice job. I had 2 - 8" Kicker Comps put into that storage well because I didn't want to cut any metal. They did cut out the bracket between the storage under the left-hand and right-hand rear seats. Then sealed the storage area where the jack was stored under the passenger side rear seat, so I have one large chamber. I moved the jack under the hood and the tools under the passenger front seat.

I don't want to hijack your thread, but if you'd like to see it, I could post a pic of the subs and of the amp board mounting on the rear wall. I'm using a Directed Electronics 5-ch amp to run the entire system. Might give you some ideas, but like I said, I won't dump in your thread unless you want to see it.

Great start!! Keep up the good work.
 
#9 ·
I don't mind as long as it's not against any sort of silly forum rule. Whole reason I started my log here was to share information to help out the next person doing a DC Tundra install, so the more pics and information shared the better in my opinion.

Regards.
 
#10 ·
Install Update - 06/24/08

Just a quick update showing some pics of my almost finished sub box. It has roughly 5" of mounting depth I think, but have not given it a test of my JBL GTO 1002D yet as I just picked it up tonight. The carpet color is not a perfect match by any means, but I told them to just use what they had since it would not be seen under the seat and since it kept the cost down. Cutout is for 10" sub and space should be around 0.75 cubic feet, but I plan to measure it at some point.







Also took a few snaps of my recovered ebay wonder dvd headrests. $270 shipped, then recovered to match. Each unit has 7" screen and dvd player built in. Also has small speaker capable of enough sound for my kid to hear movies. Direct replacement for stock headrests.





More to follow as I progress. :) Thanks for looking.
 
#13 ·
A little more progress to report, but no pictures unfortunately as the weather prevented it.

Manged to get the following items tackled this weekend:
1.) 800prs harness soldered and heatshrinked to the metra harness adapter.
2.) 800prs cage installed into the metra double din adapter kit
3.) JBL GTO 1002D sub installed into custom fiberglass box. Wiring is run through the side of the box into another storage compartment, for a stealth wiring setup. Sub is wired in series as 4 ohm load. Added just under 1/2 of a 1 pound bag of acousta stuff loosely into the box, then mounted speaker with 8 stainless screws.

On the sub, I had to take a rubber mallet to one of the steel spring supports running under my rear seat for clearance, but with about 1/4 inch of adjustment, the speaker fits perfectly now.

Will be doing more work over 4th weekend as I'm taking 5 days vacation with holiday and weekend. :)
 
#14 ·
07-05-08 Install Update & Pics

Didn't get a ton of work done as I was sick the first 2 days of my Holiday time off. Did manage to get my fuse block mounted, and my 4 guage kicker hyperflex power wire covered in techflex and run.

Fuse block mounted about 12 inches from battery:


4 gauge wire run through existing firewall gromet:


Not much to see, but other side of firewall:



Pulled out all my speaker wiring to cover with techflex and reinstall. Still have that sitting here to reinstall tomorrow morning, but have it covered and ready to go. No pics of it.


Got my amp mounting board prepared, and ready to be covered with carpet. It will sit on top of my second storage compartment under the rear seat and will suspend the alpine pdx5 below it. The board isn't pretty, and it's an old pine shelf board, but no need to worry as it will be hidden under the seat and covered in carpet.

Pic of amp board with paint drying:


Shot of newly mounted JBL GTO 1002D in the box pictured in thread above, as well as second storage bin that will hold PDX5 amp:


Last shot for now, is PDX5 getting prepped to hang below panel via 1/4 inch bolts:



More to follow later as my slow project progresses. :D

Thanks for looking.
 
#15 · (Edited)
07-06-08 - Install Update

Managed to get a few more items done today before heading home from a 5 day vacation.

Took a few moments to add a third layer of raammat and a layer of ensolite to the rear window access panel today. I had already put 2 layers of raammat and 1 layer of ensolite on the inside:



Then, to sandwich against this, I glued another layer of ensolite on the inside of the rear trim panel:



Got my newly techflexed speaker wire reinstalled and did some wire routing back to the rear storage compartment that will hold the amp. Opened up two existing holes in the metal by cutting away the previously applied raammat, and then trimmed with some aluminum tape to keep the stick stuff at bay:




Also routed my knukonceptz krystal rca's into the other access hole:



An idea of what's to come with carpet back in place, and all wire routing hidden. Also rear trim panel is installed:



In order to mount a fuse block and ground block, but keep the fuses in reach, I cut a 5"x8" hole in the rear trim. Inside this, I mounted a small wood block to the rear wall via 3 stainless steel screws. I've fashioned a 2" thick wood block, that isn't pictured, that will then screw into the pictured wood block. It will be wrapped in matching vinyl, and the fuse and ground blocks will be mounted on top of it. It will fill the hole, but still allow removal of the rear trim panel without removing any wiring parts:


(Yes, I know the block is crooked, but it doesn't matter as it will be covered. Also, the hole in the trim looks crooked, but it really isn't. Just looks like it in the picture for some reason due to the contours and curves.)


To follow at a future date:

NEXT PHASE TASK LIST
-Amp board and fuse block board wrapped in matching vinyl
-knukonceptz krystal rca cables cut to length and resoldered
-Amp mounted to wrapped board, installed and connected to wiring
-fuse block board mounted, and distro blocks wired
-connect power wiring to fuse block & battery (will leave out fuse until ready to go)

FUTURE PHASE TASK LIST
-deaden rear doors
-deaden front doors & mount mids/tweets
-plug & play mount head unit as it's ready to go
-enjoy system








So, for all those members that ragged me when I was throwing in the towel, I hope I get some feedback and comments on my progress to date. It's slow going, but as I promised, I'm still pushing forward.
 
#17 ·
hehehehe........... step right up and be identified. :D

I so want this install to make even more progress, but I guess the slow pace is giving me time to think my way through it and hopefully make good decisions on where I'm putting everything.


Just noticed that those last two pics clearly show my first lesson learned of not to sit the roll of raammat directly on the carpet. Still haven't cleaned it, but am sort of waiting until I'm finished and then will give the whole carpet and interior a good detail and cleaning.
 
#18 ·
07-07-08 Install Update

finished up my amp rack tonight. I glued on a layer of ensolite padding on top, then wrapped the whole thing in a matching vinyl. The bolts holding the amp in place are counter sunk and installed prior to wrapping so they remain hidden.

Shot of rack on the floor in the house from the top:


Shot from the side:


And from the bottom:




Shot of the compartment under the seat that this will sit in:


And a test fit showing how it will look:


You can see the intentional gap around the amp and the board to allow heat to come out from inside the compartment. It is only about an 1/8 of an inch all the way around, but should provide more than enough convection cooling combined with the fact that the center of the board is open and exposing the amp heat sink.

Next will be to trim out the plastic panel on the bottom of the seat to allow heat to escape from under the seat, and then the amp is ready to go into place.

Thanks for looking and Comments welcome.
 
#20 ·
Thanks.

I'm thinking about recovering the sub box top board with the same vinyl as the amp rack, if I have enough left over. Do you guys think that would look more consistent than the "non matching" grey carpet, or should I try to find matching carpet?

I think I'll have enough vinyl left over from the yard I bought yesterday. Wasted a little bit on the amp rack, as I had to cover it twice to get it right. First go round I cut the interior too close and the interior corners ripped and looked awful. Took a second try to get it like it is now.

Figured if the amp rack board, fuse block mounting board, and sub were all in same vinyl as the video headrests, it would at least tie it all together......

Thoughts?
 
#21 ·
I vote find matching carpet and use it on both the amp rack and the sub enclosure.
 
#23 ·
While I wouldn't exactly call this progress, I started out trying to realize the vision from my head in the form of actual wood. Sometimes easier said than done without a proper shop, which I don't have.

Currently trying to decide if I should try to salvage what I've started, or scrap it and start over.

I started with two 1" thick blocks of wood that had been cut to fit a hole on my back wall trim, and had been sized to allow the wood to just exceed the surface level of the wall by about 1/4 inch. This would allow it to hide the cut edges of the trim and allows the rear wall trim to slip on and off over this block.

Before, while trying to do some markings:


After some mutilation with the router, a few mistaken cuts, and a accidental split out of the wood:




Spot on rear wall where this will be mounted:



The whole thing was to be wrapped in matching vinyl, which I realize is not going to be an easy task. The purpose of this design was to allow the block to be mounted on the rear wall, behind the seats in easy reach. The wood block design was to allow the edges to extend beyond the cut edges of the trim to seal the hole sort of speak, and the fuse block would sit slightly recessed in the wood, but still allowing access to the plastic tabs that allow removal of the clear plastic cover. Further, wires were to go down and out of the small slits so that you don't see where the wires are coming from, but only see where they are actually plugging into the block.

At this point, I'm not sure what to do. It needs lots of sanding and wood filler to make it look nice, and I need to find some way to fix the broken strip at bottom (I have one of the pieces that broke out, but not the whole thing).

I'm thinking either a combination of wood filler, wood putty, or maybe even a bondo material.

What does the forum think? Would coating it with resin be an option? And if so, is sanding just resin wthout the cloth still dangerous and require respirator/mask?

Any thoughts are helpful as I've got to figure out what way to go at this point, but the wood edges are thin and definately could use some strengthening before I try to wrap any vinyl at this point. Thanks for looking.
 
#24 ·
I think you should perfect the mounting and then repeat the process and THEN ship the worst one to me!!;) It looks great and I like what you have done with the box and amps. did you ever consider mounting the amp under a plexi panel and provide forced air cooling? This would be to better protect the amp and cosmetics as well.
 
#25 ·
Thank you!

hehehe........ Given the short amount of free time I have to work on this stuff, and the amount of effort I've put into this block so far, I think I'm going to do my best to salvage it.

Just got back from a trip to home depot where I've come back armed with a can of wood putty, a plastic putty tool, a small can of fiberglass resin and tube of hardner, a new container of wood glue, two pieces of 3" wide by 1/4" thick poplar board, and finally a brand new rigid 5 gallon wet/dry shop vac that hangs on the garage wall.

The intention with the supplies is use the wood putty to smooth the work I've done so far and to fill the gaps. Use the 1/4" poplar to fill the holes and recreate the back panel that I shouldn't have cut out. Then use the resin to coat the entire block to strengthen the thin edges and water proof it.

Lastly, after it all cures and dries for a week or two, I'll come back and paint flat black certain areas, and vinyl cover the front visible areas.

Wish me luck, because I really don't know if it will work or not, but since I'm covering it, I have some flexibility to fix it.


The shop vac was one of those, I've been wanting one, and it was on sale buys. It's the type you hang in the garage, with a 21 foot hose to reach all over, but also can come down and be portable. On sale online for $69 or instore for $79 at home depot right now.

PS - regarding the plexi panel, if I were going to have the seat up much, I'd consider it, but it is such a ***** to get a car seat out of the back seat, that other than to work on the install, the seat never comes up. One day down the road, if I still have the truck when the kids are older, then maybe I'll go back and worry about it then. :)
 
#26 ·
ok, I can understand that....so, when your done, THEN you'll send it to me?!

J/K. i can appreciate the effort and time it takes to do something like that. It's funny, it doesn't look that hard when you first start with it!!

Lets see some pics after work is finished.
 
#27 ·
Yeah, in my head this was going to be a piece of cake. Figured I'd knock it out in no time. It actually started out well. I routed out my pattern in the top block with ease. It was when I flipped it over to route out the back side of the top block that the trouble began. First the piece you can see in the picture split out. The split left one large chunk that was easy to glue back on, but the remainder of about 1 inch of wood turned to dust. So, I'll have to rebuild that somehow. Also, the top edges nicked in a few places that have to be rebuilt from putty.

So, after splitting out the top block, I went on to mess up the lower block also. My router bit was not deep enough to reach all the way through the block, so it required routing the front first, then flipping and doing the back. Well, the lower block should only have been routed from the front, as I truly needed to leave it solid on the back so that you can't see through it into the rear wall.

The 1/4" poplar I picked up yesterday will be used to make some inserts to replace the pieces I mistakenly routed out. So, more cutting, glue and putty for that. But, after some putty work and some time with the sand paper, it should look just like I wanted when I started. Maybe not stain quality, but fine for paint and vinyl. I'm still going to paint it with resin for strength, but I'm happy with the salvage progress so far.
 
#28 ·
Progress Update - August 2nd, 2008

Decided to scrap the fuse block mount made and pictured earlier. I started over and so far am pleased with the result.

Old on left, and new on right



Old one test fit on rear wall



New one being test fit on rear wall



New one after painting with fiberglass resin



New one testing fuse block mount location


Not pictured yet is the fact that I painted the block with flat black paint after painting with the fiberglass resin. The fiberglass resin was to add strength to the wood. The black paint is to make items less noticible.

Let to do is cover part of the edges with matching vinyl and mount and connect all of the wires. Will add more pics as I do more.

Regards and thanks for looking.
 
#29 ·
so much work for such a good looking little piece! Shame to paint it black and be incognito.
 
#30 · (Edited)
hehehe. Yeah, well, it aint as good looking in person. Pieces of wood split, the resin bubled and needs sanding, etc. But, since it is gonna be burried and only the top rim and a few spots will be visible, I didn't wate time sanding the resin, and I simply shot a few extra nails into the split areas rather than rebuilding those pieces. Glue and a brad nailer and life is good. Coated it with resin not to be pretty, but to add strength to the thin areas. Didn't coat the back, so it's not even to make it waterproof, but the spot it's mounted is not in an area that is really exposed to elements.

So, it's already painted with some flat black high temp paint, as that was what was on hand. Used same stuff on the little amp rack board before covering it with vinyl. I've got to figure out how best to trim this out with vinyl on the edges so that it looks nice, and then it's time to start putting it all together. It should look nice once it's trimmed out and flushed into that rear wall.

Still want the old one? I'll send it to you if you pay shipping. LOL Otherwise, it is going in the trash.
 
#31 ·
Thanks for the offer, I ended up going a different route.
 
#32 ·
Install Log update - 08/30/08

Spent about 7 hours today doing install work. I'm totally wiped out, and am more tired today than when I pulled the entire interior to deaden the floor of my truck.

In my 7 hours, all I managed to get accomplished was the passenger side front door. I forgot to take my camera with me, but did have my cell phone, so sorry for the crappy pics. Promise some better ones tomorrow when I tackle the drivers door.

Accomplished today on Passenger side front door

-Deadened exterior skin with 1 to 2 layers of raammat
-applied 4 layers of ensolite behind midbass mounting location
- Cut and attached lexan panels over 3 access holes on door
- Cut 3/4" hdpe midbass baffle board and mounted speaker
- applied 1 layer of ensolite to back of door card skin



Used clear silicone to seal the lexan panels, and then used pop rivets to snug them down and hold them in place. I wanted to make sure it was fairly easy to get back into the access holes, so I'd just have to drill the rivets and pry the panel off the silicone to get in. Less of a nightmare than trying to remove layers of deadner and goo in my opinion, although probably not quite as effective.






The speaker baffles made out of 3/4" hdpe with a spacer from the 720prs mids attached.






It's hard to believe it took me 7 hours to do just this, but the hard parts were all in this one task. Getting the speaker wire through the door gromet, getting the lexan cut to fit over the hole, getting the speaker baffles made, etc.

The good thing about tomorrow is that I made a template for the other door once I got the lexan sized to fit, so I just need to cut those pieces out tommorow and attach them. The speaker baffle is already made for the other door and ready to go, which saves some time too. :)

Only broke two tabs on pieces, but they didn't seem to be critical items. Learned how to get those off on the other door hopefully without damage.
 
#33 ·
My Install Log - Update 2 - 08/30/08

Also snapped some pics of my tweeter location and bits and pieces. I'm thinking I may try to use the stock location for the tweets. Here are pics of the stock sail panel, and the stock tweeter with bracket. My goal would be to cut the bracket off the stock tweeter to glue my tweets to, as they are already angled to be fairly on axis.












Does this look like a good option for the Alpine SPX17Pro Tweets or Seas Neo Tweets? Or am I going to be better off trying to build pods? I like this because it looks stock.
 
#48 · (Edited)
Re: My Install Log - Update 2 - 08/30/08

No new pics, but in reference to this previous post from the 30th, last night I managed to drill out the screw and get the stock tweeters off of their brackets. I cleaned the brackets up and now have them ready to go to try mounting my tweeter options inside my sail panels.

My immediate plan will be to put some quick disconnects on the tweeter wiring and on each set of tweeters, that way I can swap them back and fourth to see what sounds best.

I'll have to search for the best quick disconnect options when the wires are different sized, but I'm thinking something like bullet connectors.


Also snapped some pics of my tweeter location and bits and pieces. I'm thinking I may try to use the stock location for the tweets. Here are pics of the stock sail panel, and the stock tweeter with bracket. My goal would be to cut the bracket off the stock tweeter to glue my tweets to, as they are already angled to be fairly on axis.



 
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