and finally, there really isnt anything to do but to post pics of the end results, these are taken with my crappy camera so sorry if the lighting appears off or is fuzzy hehe...
Noticed that the bottom amp doesn't have its label/tag on it, are the amps that close that you had to remove it? Also, how difficult is it to adjust the amps, especially the bottom one?
Everything looks great, awesome work... however I do have to give you a hard time on a couple points:
1. Get a new windshield. Or are you keeping that to get some SPL jobs, telling folks you have so much bass that it cracked the windshield?
2. Your mids are screwed in at different angles, i.e. the screws are in different spots from driver's to passenger's side. A little OCD, but noticeable, for me anyway.
BTW, how does it sound? Do you get decent subbass out of it?
Noticed that the bottom amp doesn't have its label/tag on it, are the amps that close that you had to remove it? Also, how difficult is it to adjust the amps, especially the bottom one?
Everything looks great, awesome work... however I do have to give you a hard time on a couple points:
1. Get a new windshield. Or are you keeping that to get some SPL jobs, telling folks you have so much bass that it cracked the windshield?
2. Your mids are screwed in at different angles, i.e. the screws are in different spots from driver's to passenger's side. A little OCD, but noticeable, for me anyway.
BTW, how does it sound? Do you get decent subbass out of it?
1. yeah, i took the tag off cuase its that close, well acutally it would have cleared it without the tab i think, but by a whisker, so i took it of anyway.
2. reaching the gains on the top one obviously is easy, on the bottom one is not too bad either, a skewdriver easily reachs the gains on the front and rear channels, whcih are the only thing one has to touch owning to the DSP6 controlling everything. i have adjusted it a bunch of times (the bottom one) already.
3. about hte windshield haha, i was, well after i got hte first one, i contacted the place, and guess hwat, within 24 hours, i got another one, so i said screw this, just going to wait it out, and sure enought, with in the next 3 months, i got two more chips which thankfully didnt spider out...so i dont wnat to change it and just have it happen all over again...gonna wait prolly until the end of the year and see bout doing it when its about time for inspection hehe
4. you are absolutely right, but i hvae a good reason for that, i ran outta screws, as soon as i get some more time, i am acutally going to fill in the rest of the mounting holes so then it will be identical i think i was majorly jetlagged from my china trip when i did those and went after the wrong holes haha
5. the subass is superb IMO, its always been a strong point of this car, and thebas sounds much better acutally IMO with the heavy mat in place, i believe its having a loading effect on it.
Bing,
Awesome job as usual. I looked over your install at Marv's and it was incredible! I only wish I could have heard it!
Ping me later on if you ever get some bandwidth. Seeya next time!
the strips have four sodering points, common positive, and neg for the RGB, you soder wires on and lead out to a module, i can have it cycle or stop at any given color
Let's step back a little bit in your install log. I have a few questions for you:
How the heck did you get the floor mold to stick to this factory panel so well? Drill holes in it to let resin seep through? Will it continue to stick and stay put?
My second question is directly related to a thread I started in the fabrication section. How do you go from this:
To this:
How do you get the cloth to stick to the ABS flush mount rings? Do you simply stretch it over the entire structure, resin it, then cut the opening for the speaker? Or, do you attach cloth to the sides of the flush mount ring somehow then resin the whole thing.
Confused and intrigued...
Ge0
Alpine, Zapco, Scanspeak, Image Dynamics, Critical Mass
Life lesson #1) En boca cerradas no entra moscas! (loose translation: sometimes it is best to keep your fuggin mouth shut and listen)
1. the plastic panels are heavily scuffed with 36 grit sand paper to make it stick better.
2. afer its dried and before the dampening went on, a few more pan head screws went in to furthre help it. then dampeng goes on and its all bonded.
3. no i pull it over the entire ring, resin it, and then trim out the cloth on the inside of hte ring, and from the back, after thoroughly strenthen it with glass, to the poin where the joint between the edge of hte ring and the mold cloth is very hard, i can take a sand paper and sand it smooth, down to what you see i the last pic you linked...
1. the plastic panels are heavily scuffed with 36 grit sand paper to make it stick better.
2. afer its dried and before the dampening went on, a few more pan head screws went in to furthre help it. then dampeng goes on and its all bonded.
3. no i pull it over the entire ring, resin it, and then trim out the cloth on the inside of hte ring, and from the back, after thoroughly strenthen it with glass, to the poin where the joint between the edge of hte ring and the mold cloth is very hard, i can take a sand paper and sand it smooth, down to what you see i the last pic you linked...
not sure if that made sense?
b
Good enough bing. I can fill in the blanks from here.
Thanks!!!
Ge0
Alpine, Zapco, Scanspeak, Image Dynamics, Critical Mass
Life lesson #1) En boca cerradas no entra moscas! (loose translation: sometimes it is best to keep your fuggin mouth shut and listen)
1. the plastic panels are heavily scuffed with 36 grit sand paper to make it stick better.
2. afer its dried and before the dampening went on, a few more pan head screws went in to furthre help it. then dampeng goes on and its all bonded.
3. no i pull it over the entire ring, resin it, and then trim out the cloth on the inside of hte ring, and from the back, after thoroughly strenthen it with glass, to the poin where the joint between the edge of hte ring and the mold cloth is very hard, i can take a sand paper and sand it smooth, down to what you see i the last pic you linked...
not sure if that made sense?
b
Oh, one more question. How did you affix the abs strip to the MDF ring before you started glassing? I've got this far (heated and melted the abs around a ring) but for now I have it held in place with small brad nails and wood screws.
Ge0
Alpine, Zapco, Scanspeak, Image Dynamics, Critical Mass
Life lesson #1) En boca cerradas no entra moscas! (loose translation: sometimes it is best to keep your fuggin mouth shut and listen)
Nice job! I was going to do something similar (as far as show off my skillset/build a car as a resume kinda thing) but I'm on unemployment, so I have a VERY limited budget to work with. So, for the time being, I'm doing the best I can. I really like this install on your car.
I find it funny that your sub box is only like 2" deep and is still .8 cf.
I was wondering a) What midbasses are you running and did you do anything special with the mounting, and b) where do you get the blue (ABS?) that you used to make your kick panel mounting rings? Is it more flexible that the normal black 1/8" ABS or something?
midbass is the seas reference
as far as special mounting i dont relaly know hwat you mean hehe
blue is low heat plastic, much eaier to heat up and work with than abs. i get it from my local supplier but you can find it at www.selectproducts.com not the cheapest but its there under that name.
As far as mounting, I just wondered if it was deadened/ensolited/clayed/etc.
Found that blue stuff on SP's site, and it's not *outrageous* at $17 for 24x32"
But I find alot of the stuff they promote as "NEW Installation Products" are really just products from other areas that they mark up and market to us.
We used to work with a product called Centra (or Sentra?) at the last shop I worked at, which might be similar.
Re: An abbreviated install log of my own car :)
Linear Mode
