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An abbreviated install log of my own car :)

74K views 175 replies 82 participants last post by  mumbles 
#1 ·
well, its acutally been a few weeks since i finished the installation on my own car, but with the crazy work schedule, i havent had any chance to organize the pics i took and upload them.

With the G35 out of the way, i finally got a chance to sit down, relax a bit, and comb through the pics and start to put together an install log. One thing that immediately became apparent was that i am apparently much less patient at taking pics of my own car's install than the last time around haha, as a result, this is going to be a pretty abbreviated install log, compared to many similar logs posted by other DIyers.

so anyway, lets get started...

Goals:

1. achieve a decent level of sound quality (than previous system)

2. keep everything hidden completely under the floor

3. throw in aspects of my skillset into the install so i can demonstrated to potential clients what certain things can look like (i.e. wiring neatly through grommits, routed plexi, led edge lit plexi, etc etc)
-------------------------

okay, i guess before i go into the install, a little bit about the vehicle?

its a 2005 subaru legacy 2.5GT wagon...with some mods. here is a list and the most recent pics of i have of it:

KN intake
Cobb Pulley
Perrin turbo inlet hose
Perrin TMIC
760cc injectors
Walbro pump
aquamist methanol injection
18G turbo at 20psi w/meth
flex UP
Cobb DP
Crucial P/P exhusat manifold
BC Racing BR coilovers
Tranny Cooler
crossdrilled/slotted rotors
magnaflow exhuast with porsche 911 style tips
20 Tint
AEM UEGO wideband
autometer boost guage
accessport with custom tdc/harmann map
GFB BOV at 50/50
Kosei K3 18x7.5
General Exclaim 225 40 18
Debadged with L7 badge ont he back i made
mesh grille
cleared headlights
4500 HIDs
engine cover and bracket delete
urathane control arm bushings
two large cracks in the windshield curtesey of cali highways lol
all told about 400hp/450tq at crank, 300-325 awhp depending on mustang or dynoject

may have mised a few things here and there













 
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#120 ·
well, compared to my old setup, its not really about brand name versus brand name, this is a totally different kind of install :)

the old set up had nobelium 6.5" two way run passively off of 85 watts, where as this is the seas, whcih is a much more expesnive set of speaker, running active with 250 watts per midbass and 85 per tweeter. so the sound is quite different. :)

as for pillar location, i think if you have the right amplification and the right processor, this location works well in the LGT, but always turst your own ears, to me, its either this location or kicks. and kicks from my old set up does result a bit of rainbowing.

b
 
#121 ·
Love the look, and of course it's going to be high-standard work if it's demoing to prospective customers...
Only 2 things. I'm surprised the underside of that lid in the boot is just painted. IMO some felt or suede liner wouldn't go astray.
And gas lift struts on the lid too :)

Far be it from me to pick on it really though.
 
#127 ·
Hey Bing i know this is kinda a old build but I have a few questions for you. I am about to begin my false floor build and i want to install the million rgb strips like you did.

1. How did you cut the plexiglass and mount it to the mdf?

2. Also how do you "cloud' the plexi, is it just rubbing the plexiglass with sandpaper. If so which grit did you use?

3. How did you attach the led strips to the plexiglass?

Also just so you know your installs are amazing!!!
 
#131 ·
if this user is still around, props to the build AWESOME and inspiring.

I was just wondering if you installed any fans or how well the amp performs without overheating due to lack of air flow ? I'm looking to build a false floor in my spare tire well (still keeping the spare tire) just for the amp to hide it and keep some space in my hatch ? I'm just worried that by hiding it under there, that there will not be enough airflow and will pooch my amp :(

Thanks! Great work.

- T.
 
#132 ·
yeah i am still around :) and this system is still around, despite being quite old...virtually unchanged.

most good amps run cold enough that you dont have to worry about it much...i have driven the car on 8 hour drives in traffic on 100 degree days in the summer without any issues.

the dls A series especially run quite cold.



p.s. i just realized that its going to be 4 years soon for this system hehe, never had a single glitch with it :)
 
#139 ·
there is no longer a new version of this car...shame too, outback is the only wagon subie makes, and they do not handle like the lower legacy's..
i like the mazda, and they came out with a speed version of the 3 wagon, but that goofy smiling front facia on the bumper is a bit much..
 
#141 ·
all this time and I never knew about mounting subs with the magnet out, I've seen it before, but I didn't know it could still have the same db output like that.

excellent build. I need to go back and start reading threads just for the wiring aspect, as far as what materials you need to make a very clean install...types of wire connections, clips, etc...
 
#143 ·
Hey there. I don't mean to perpetuate your super old thread, but frankly... your install is outstanding.

I have a question. I will be building a similar system in my '01 Outback and was concerned the rubber mat in the back (over the spare tire cover) would vibrate.

Do you have this problem?

Thanks, Craig
 
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