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An abbreviated install log of my own car :)

74K views 175 replies 82 participants last post by  mumbles 
#1 ·
well, its acutally been a few weeks since i finished the installation on my own car, but with the crazy work schedule, i havent had any chance to organize the pics i took and upload them.

With the G35 out of the way, i finally got a chance to sit down, relax a bit, and comb through the pics and start to put together an install log. One thing that immediately became apparent was that i am apparently much less patient at taking pics of my own car's install than the last time around haha, as a result, this is going to be a pretty abbreviated install log, compared to many similar logs posted by other DIyers.

so anyway, lets get started...

Goals:

1. achieve a decent level of sound quality (than previous system)

2. keep everything hidden completely under the floor

3. throw in aspects of my skillset into the install so i can demonstrated to potential clients what certain things can look like (i.e. wiring neatly through grommits, routed plexi, led edge lit plexi, etc etc)
-------------------------

okay, i guess before i go into the install, a little bit about the vehicle?

its a 2005 subaru legacy 2.5GT wagon...with some mods. here is a list and the most recent pics of i have of it:

KN intake
Cobb Pulley
Perrin turbo inlet hose
Perrin TMIC
760cc injectors
Walbro pump
aquamist methanol injection
18G turbo at 20psi w/meth
flex UP
Cobb DP
Crucial P/P exhusat manifold
BC Racing BR coilovers
Tranny Cooler
crossdrilled/slotted rotors
magnaflow exhuast with porsche 911 style tips
20 Tint
AEM UEGO wideband
autometer boost guage
accessport with custom tdc/harmann map
GFB BOV at 50/50
Kosei K3 18x7.5
General Exclaim 225 40 18
Debadged with L7 badge ont he back i made
mesh grille
cleared headlights
4500 HIDs
engine cover and bracket delete
urathane control arm bushings
two large cracks in the windshield curtesey of cali highways lol
all told about 400hp/450tq at crank, 300-325 awhp depending on mustang or dynoject

may have mised a few things here and there













 
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#148 ·
yeah i think the passenger side tweeter is finally starting to go...i can hear some scratching on one or two songs, but 99 percent of the material is fine. i give loud demos on it a few times a week....

other than that, nothing has even had an issue, amps never shut down or over heated, sub never blown, despite going for a SPL comp and putting up a 129.9 all by itself (MECA, meaning it would have done over 130 on other formats :))...speakrs never blown, dsp still good.

though sadly, msot of the stuff in the car i dont actively sell much anymore...but i dont have the time to go and swap it. hehe. maybe my next car if someone buys her :)
 
#149 ·
Can you put a 6.5" speaker in that kick? I'm assuming thats a 5.25" speaker.

Did you oversize it just to showcase the carbon print vinyl or for possible future expansion?

If you didn't I just gave everyone a great idea.;)
 
#157 ·
Then I guess you could fit an 8" in those kicks.

The kicks didn't look that big in pics by themselves.....I must have posted and not remembered that when installed you can tell they're 6.5" speakers.

So I guess you could fit 8's in them kicks.....but if you could get nice enclosures built in the doors that would be a better route.

Not a bad idea then you could showcase one more example of install skills with some nicely made re-built door panels.....covered in black suede....nice.:)
 
#151 ·
Fantastic install, but you already knew that...lol

About your Seas Lotus 165's, I have used mine in stock door locations with 100W a piece active and have been very dissatisfied with their output in a 2-way system. Do you feel they need upwards of 200-250W to stand out? I am asking cause I am ready to sell mine for the lack of output.
 
#153 ·
Wow... If I didn't already have a Mazda 6 wagon I've been working on for a while and had the money I'd have to seriously consider your wagon. It's great to see so many wagon fans here. Most people wonder what I'm doing building a wagon. :(

That being said, I have some questions about the edge lighting if you have a few moments.

1: Is the top plexi flushed with the top mdf piece. If so, how did you mount the plexi to the mdf and leave room for the LEDs?

2: Why frost the plexi? Is the light distributed better with the plexi frosted?

Although I would love to use the CF vinyl, or other vinyl for my build, I already have carpet so carpet it is. But for possible future use I'd love to know where you get it.

Thanks,
Michael
 
#159 ·
Both actually, but mainly I was talking about the largest piece on the top.

At first I thought you had mounted the plexi in such a way so that the top surface was flush with the top surface of the mdf.

Closer inspection of the pics revealed that I was incorrect. The plexi is mounted below the routed opening. So now I understand how you mounted it and installed the LEDs.

Michael
 
#164 ·
I love this install Bing- it must be hard to put it up for sale.

I wanted to ask a question regarding bridging the DLS A4 to the midbass- does the RCA input need to be split and fed to both front and rear inputs? I'm assuming it does need to be split. Ie the amp doesn't sum the signal.

From memory the instruction manual says something vague along the lines of 'if source only has one rca output 'Y' splitter cable must be used'.
 
#168 ·
How should I be splitting the signal B ?

For example should the Left signal be split to both left inputs, or should the Left signal be sent to both front inputs etc etc....

I should have asked this question elsewhere, but I thought I would ask now while I have your ear!


EDIT I think I'm over complicating this. Front channels become either left or right and rears become the opposite. Yes?
 
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