Got around to building and finishing the kicks for the 8's as well. They vent into the area behind the kicks, whatever that is called I dont know. Its still to be determined if I am going to just go with the L8's in the kicks only or do dual SLS8's in the kicks and doors.
Great work Drake -can't wait to hear and see it in a couple weeks. What is your initial impressions of the 8's in the kicks vs the doors?
Pretty good so far, I havent gotten them in there completely, still need to seal off the area to the vent if that makes sense. Because of that the low end is lacking a bit but easter break starts on the 18th so I should be able to get everything done that I want in the next two weekends. The trunk is next and then Maybe I will do something with the rear doors and if I decide to go dual 8's then I will have to refinish the front doors, but honestly I just dont see that there is enough time for all that, I gotta leave myself plenty of time for listening and tuning before the meet too.
I meant to post these earlier, but here are a few snaps of the PC in the new case. Its still pretty crammed in there. Every PCI slot is full and the video card's fan barely clears the wifi card below it. So far it does get pretty hot, I will have to put in the other fans to keep it cooler. I hit 72C (161F) on the video card on our hottest day here which was about 29C (84F). The Video card is safe up to 100C but I would rather stay below 70C when its idle. Plus the hotter the Video card gets the hotter the rest of the components will get as well.
Quick suggestion. Disable the WiFi when you're not using it. I remember back when I had my first carPC in 2002... I was driving to PA and couldn't for the life of me figure out why my music was pausing. Turns out every time there was an unsecured network the PC was trying to hookup. Ah the joys of war driving.
I suggest for cooling, that should keep you much cooler would be the coirsair h70, its a "watter cool system" but its a in the box WC system, it'll free up all that overhead space, should cool things down quite a bit, plus the cpu would likly run allot cooler, you would never fit the rad and fan in that case but you should be able to easily mount it externaly, would get better air flow like that anyways. idk im a techy buy this might be a bit of overkill. but if heats a problem.
Quick suggestion. Disable the WiFi when you're not using it. I remember back when I had my first carPC in 2002... I was driving to PA and couldn't for the life of me figure out why my music was pausing. Turns out every time there was an unsecured network the PC was trying to hookup. Ah the joys of war driving.
Appreciate the help but that hasnt been a problem in years, at least I never had a problem with it in any of my carputer setups. I read about it when I did have clicks and crackles a year or two ago, but it was never an issue with the netbook or with these two "desktop" setups I have had. Plus I use the Wifi while I am driving connected to my android wireless tether service
Quote:
Originally Posted by BowDown
Also whats the deal with the unprotected speakerwire going into the power supply? If that's permanent I would use some kind of rubber bushing.
I dont know what you mean by unprotected, if they werent they would short on the case immediately. Those holes are not unshaved metal so no risk in them getting cut up or anything if thats what you think. Had them like that since I had the M4 (1 year+), it runs the 5V line for the usb hub up front. If I did use anything I would use some high temp glue on it since its cheap and I already have it available.
Quote:
Originally Posted by eviling
I suggest for cooling, that should keep you much cooler would be the coirsair h70, its a "watter cool system" but its a in the box WC system, it'll free up all that overhead space, should cool things down quite a bit, plus the cpu would likly run allot cooler, you would never fit the rad and fan in that case but you should be able to easily mount it externaly, would get better air flow like that anyways. idk im a techy buy this might be a bit of overkill. but if heats a problem.
Thanks for the suggestion, I am familiar with the corsair's. They arent that great and they definitely arent anything close to a water cooling system. Believe it or not but in reviews and tests of the heatsink I have now beat the H50 in performance, the H70 is new so I havent compared the two, but the CPU heat isnt an issue for me and I am not going to spend another $50+ just for something that doesnt need changing. The GPU temperatures are what could potentially be an issue. But when I had the computer in the car just for testing there were no fans at all in there, I will have at least two 120mm 133CFM fans in the trunk circulating air and thats usually always plenty.
Thankfully we survived the tornadoes on Saturday and the house/car are still all in one piece so I was able to get some work done on Sunday. Put some carpet down in the trunk and was setting gains with my new old oscilloscope.
The L8's in the kicks sound great, some good chest impacting midbass although it lacks on the low end in comparison to when they were in the doors. 70Hz and below drops off really quick and not sure why. Only had time to set gains and do a little level matching before I completely drained the rear battery, lol. Thank goodness its Easter break so I have a bunch of time to finish this up.
what do you do with your old gear? im in the market for some stuff
most of the stuff I usually sell, cant afford to get new gear without getting rid of the old stuff usually. PM me with what you need, I have lots of various stuff around, no drivers or amps though if thats what you are looking for.
Quick update, I figured out why I was having such a difficult time with setting up multiple sound cards... Apparently each sound card has a different clock and according to Ross over at Audiomulch he said:
"This is normal, and due the the slight variation in clock rates from different quartz crystals -- no two sound cards will run at _exactly_ the same speed, although you might find that some are more closely aligned than others (either due to better crystals or luck)"
So in sum, no two audio cards will have the same clock, even exactly identical sound cards and so when you try to use them together like I am here then one will be off from the other and that will cause pops, clicks, dropouts. The way I found this out was because when I attempted to do T/A the audigy 2 sound card would never return consistent results, it would always drift. A lot of this is over my head, lol.
Sooooo, onto what the solution would be. I either have to get a single sound card that has all the outputs I want which none exists unless you go to the pro audio gear and spend literally thousands of dollars, no thanks on that. Or I can get a sound card that has whats called a word clock connector so that it can sync up the clock between audio equipment. After a little bit of research I found the M-Audio Delta 1010LT can do this and they are pretty affordable especially considering the price of that pro audio gear I was looking at, sheesh. Gonna try to find some used 1010LT's for under $100 each and throw them in there. Messes up my setup a little bit because now I will have to sell my Asus Xonar D2x and grab a PCI Express wireless card since the M-audio cards are both PCI. I may not have the new cards in before the meet so I will most likely just keep the Asus card in there and only have the front stage plus sub setup. Might not have the rear surround setup for the meet
lol, well you know thats not how it works. If I can ever get it setup properly I probably wont even have the rears on with a stereo source.
I can get the new sound cards in this week but honestly it would be too much to try to get them working and wired up since they are RCA's and not 3.5mm.... I am just going to leave the setup as is and only use the Asus card for now, probably wont invest that much time in tuning it now since it will have to be redone with the new cards.
well, I might have an Asus Xonar D2x sound card available provided I can get a pair of delta 1010lt's to work the way I want. From what I can tell the M-audio cards dont like standby or hibernation which will make this a longer boot up time.
I do have an old school Sound Blaster Audigy 2 Platinum pro card that can do internal routing through kx project but it only has 6 channels available.
drake, i dont know if its been mentioned, i couldnt find it.
but what software do you use for the DSP again? you told me but i forgot and im trying to set it up on my home PC if i can- but i can not figure out what its called.
drake, i dont know if its been mentioned, i couldnt find it.
but what software do you use for the DSP again? you told me but i forgot and im trying to set it up on my home PC if i can- but i can not figure out what its called.
right on. thanks for the info - any tips on the xover\eq\tcorr plugins? i have no idea how that website you linked me to, or this software for that matter works 0_o
you may need to give me some pointers man.
i downloaded virtual audio cable. and i installed it and see it as a device. it shows up in audiomulch. i set it as the input source. i set the speakers as the output source chan1\2 for left\right i believe. i put an VST equalizer plugin in between, and whatever i do nothing effects the audio signal on the speakers.
Drake, it was nice getting to meet you yesterday. I really hope your system is working next time I'm up there. Your pillars look really nice, and carPC + 4 8" midbasses, plus Fi 18 IB has to = awesome.
Re: 02 Optima Carputer install
Turns out every time there was an unsecured network the PC was trying to hookup. Ah the joys of war driving.
this might be a bit of overkill. but if heats a problem. 
Linear Mode
