2008 Mini Cooper (R56)

simplyclean · 09-24-2009

I'm putting a little system in my brother's Mini. It's not an S, but it's still really fun to drive and quick enough. It's his first car and I talked him into his first stereo.

I wanted to keep it at $1500ish. He likes music

, doesn't care about the gear but wants it to sound

good. Once, he bought a set of bose earbuds and returned them the next day and then dropped $250 on a set of shures because the boses sounded awful. I told him he was nuts for spending that much on a set of earbuds.

The car has the standard 6 speaker

stereo with a 4" cutout for the factory mid and a 6" speaker in the door. The rear quarters have 6x9" cutouts, all amplified off the factory head. This is going to be simple install with everything stealth and out of the way. Later on, when money permits and after getting bluetooth to the built in steering wheel controls along with a solution to his rats nest of wire from the ipod (12V, aux in), i might be able to talk him into another amp

and a processor.

What's going in:

Dynaudio Esotec system 222s components
Genesis Profile P69 6x9" subs -8 ohm versions
Arc Audio KS125.4 Mini running 75x2 & 250x1@ 4 ohm
Hushmat Ultra Compact kit ~20 sq.ft

simplyclean · 09-24-2009

From poking around northamericanmotoring.com, it turns out Mini did something pretty weird with the oem head. the front speakers play full range while the rears are highpassed @ 100Hz, IIRC. What a lot of Mini owners have been doing is switching the front and rear speaker leads for more lower end. The only thing though is the the gong/warning chimes will then play through the rear speakers. I'm just going to tag the front speaker output into the arc and not use the rears. The Arc mini also has an auto-sense input which is great for oem integration. I want to touch as few wires as possible and the car already had the sunroof assembly replaced under warranty because it didn't open or close when it was too hot out, not to mention a warning light for a dead light bulb popped up once and there was none to be found. The oem stereo also has a speed sensitive volume control and even though it's just a built in head with built in power, I want to figure out what exactly is going on. I spent some time on oeinterface.com reading up on proper factory system integration. I have a ECM8000 mic and M-audio preusb I picked up a while ago and probably going to use TrueRTA to find out for myself exactly what the 3x3 Matrix for the car is and as well as use help for final tuning. This system doesn't have any eq or real processing, but between the crossover points, attenuation selection on the passives, phase, playing with the bass eq and the factory bass control on the head (probably-3 to flat for a pseudo/ghetto "sub" level control), there is plenty to play with.

The tweeter is a going to be a bit closer to the driver and listener than the mid is, but what can you do. Ideally, I'd like them on the same vertical plane. The A pillar would probably give more stage depth and height, but there is a lot of glass up there and I wouldn't feel comfortable putting the tweeter so far away from the woofer in a passive setup with no eq. In a two way component system, they always suggest to place the tweeter relatively close to the woofer so it's cool. The Dynaudio passives have -2dB of attenuation and I already think will be used.

Rear side panels

The trunk. I so wanted to raise the floor and put a shallow subwoofer in there. It seemed like a no brainer because it would take up so little space and the trunk would be flush with the back seats when folded down. But the hatch cover wouldn't be able to close because my brother's stupid tennis bag is too big.

So this what I've been thinking since equipment and funds started slowly collecting seven months ago. I've had a lot of time to think and overthink things.

I'm doing it in two stages: the 6x9s and amps (back end of the car) are going in first, then the components. If anyone has any feedback, input, or constructive criticism, please feel free.

Audiophillic · 09-25-2009

Hello,

Looks like you have done a bit of research for the system. I have an R50, and looked at several of the components you are considering. I am not in the audio biz, though I am an SQ freak, and did a lot of research on my gear before I pulled the trigger. Funny, I did same with my earbuds, almost exactly!

The Genesis P69's are great woofers, though from my understanding, to get the best out of them, you will need a proper enclosure for them in those rear quarter panels. Getting to those areas can be a bit of work, as you need to get the rear seat out to access. I did an RE shallow 10 inch in the boot, and am quite pleased, though I was willing to the small trade off of space. You might consider the Ultra 6.5 or 8 inch in a side enclosure in the boot, as both of these subs sound awesome, especially in the MINI environment. What amp did you plan on powering the woofers with also?

If your going to do the Dyn's, you might want to feed them a bit more power than that Arc mini at 70x2. You can give them quite a bit of room, so feed those Dyn's some good power.

I hope you have fun with the install, and I know your bro will like it over the factory system no matter what.

simplyclean · 09-25-2009

D'oh, it's the four channel mini. The .4 was important. It must have looked like I was planning on building a passive. No way, that's so 1989.

The front channels are going to the components, rear is going to be bridged to the P69s.

With his Bose experience and him buying the Shures, it was easy to get him convinced on the Dyns after learning they use very similar speakers in studios, he was sold.

I'm not allowed to make any permanent modifications to the car, not am a fan of it, so the P69s being optimized for infinite baffle/free air is was the only choice, not to mention I read a UK review on them tested in a Mini and they performed great for what they are. The owners manual states the pair have the output of a 10".... vague, but still plenty in a car so small. Trust me, I tried so hard to get a real sub in there, but no go...

I think the Dyns will be fine with the 75x2. Any more power, I don't think he'll use it or appreciate it not to mention the cost factor. Double the power is only 3dB anyway; to me for power there is a point of diminishing return

I started taking the car apart and I found the perfect spot for the amp. I just need to move the harness around a little bit after splitting some wire bundles up. The side trim panel has a carpeted door thing that would allow access to the control on the amp and there is plenty of air circulation. Sweet.

Tonyguy · 09-25-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by simplyclean

I think the Dyns will be fine with the 75x2. Any more power, I don't think he'll use it or appreciate it not to mention the cost factor. Double the power is only 3dB anyway; to me for power there is a point of diminishing return

The Dyns will play with 75X2 but they wont be happy. For example, I have a friend running the Dyn 242s with the 6.5" mid. Running passive off of 150x2 from a JL 300/4, the tweeters keep going into protect at loud volumes and cutting out. After speaking with Dynaudio on the matter, They told me that 150x2 wasnt enough power. They recommended running actively with a lot more power. So i'd suggest that in the future you add another amp to adequately power those dyns.

simplyclean · 09-25-2009

Thanks for the info. I hear where you are getting at, but he's not going to listen to it at loud levels anyway. But that's interesting about your buddy's experience with the 150x2 off the JL through the passives. Judging by the 3" voicecoils, I'm betting the supplied passive is the weak link anyway since use the same one for all the all three of their two way component sets and it's designed around the tweeter. Since it's the 222 with the smaller mw152 woofer that can't play as low as the 162s, they would be crossed over a little higher. I remember hearing somewhere that for each octave lower you play you need twice the power to play that at the same volume. Down the road, I'd like to get another amp in there and dedicate the mini to the front stage.

I was thinking about SPX-17PROs, but these 222s were really short money.

Echo42987 · 09-25-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tonyguy

The Dyns will play with 75X2 but they wont be happy. For example, I have a friend running the Dyn 242s with the 6.5" mid. Running passive off of 150x2 from a JL 300/4, the tweeters keep going into protect at loud volumes and cutting out. After speaking with Dynaudio on the matter, They told me that 150x2 wasnt enough power. They recommended running actively with a lot more power. So i'd suggest that in the future you add another amp to adequately power those dyns.

Yeah I have 300watts on my 342 setup and they still want more. Was thinking about uping it but I'm switching over to some HAT's

simplyclean · 09-25-2009

If it can play relatively clean playing ~118-120dB on his music, it will be alright. If the tweeters are shutting off, it could be because they either getting overdriven or something is clipping making the polyswitch that protects the tweeter from kicking in. Some people just bypass it by twisting. I'd just turn it down because it's probably too loud.

I got the back of the car apart. Once the tailight and trunk release harnesses get separated from the big bundle, the amp will be able to fit snug in the corner and flat up against the wheel well. If i left the harness as is, the amp there would be too much strain on the wires.

Inside the 6x9" opening, between the outside quarter and the inside metal and wheel well of the car, there was this molded foam thing that was removable, shaped like a seat bolster. I think it's to keep down on the wheelwell noise and make the outside quarter more solid. This is where I want to ground. There will be some hushmat there tommorrow.

Audiophilic, I forgot to mention I want to keep the fabrication to a minimum, so it leaves only a plate for the tweeter and a woofer up front.

Audiophillic · 10-02-2009

Looks good! Any more updates?

simplyclean · 10-13-2009

I started putting some hushmat on the rear quarter area, on the inside of the the outer skin as well as the inside where the speaker mounts to. I got more than 25% coverage behind there, but still have half of the box to use for the front doors. I'm looking into some rattlepad or some foam sheets to go between the panels to reduce or eliminate panel rattles, but that will be it for sound treatments in order to keep it simple and not add to much weight to the car. I might add some overkill on the side or it or something like that.

oem speaker ftl.

I wanted to run the new wire though this factory grommet. I used stinger 16g speaker wire. I only have 50 ft and still need to figure out where to mount the passives that are pretty big. I had to cut the rubber t to fit the thicker wire and it didn't want to fit back in the hole, so it put some hushmat over it to prevent any leaks.

Blurry, but just a set of crimp spade connectors on the end of the 16g, nothing special, but it works and it's really on there.

I started looking at the amp mounting again. It just fit in the back corner and clears these threads that are painted over and come in from the wheelwell. Anyway, the wires get in the way of the amp and just look messy. I wired up the 4 gauge that came in a kit (it was a generic "type-X" brand) and put the wire in plastic loom and heatshrink over it the end of it.

It first looked like this until I decided to move the factory harness over the amp.

After taking off some of the factory tape and reusing it when I can and hockey tape when needed to run the power wire along the factory loom, I got the wires around the amp, where there wouldn't be any stress or rubbing.

I had to use the plastic spacer that that came with the P69s, otherwise didn't fit. They were fit very snug and were tricky to get on at first.

simplyclean · 10-13-2009

I got the speaker in and used this stuff used to stop window drafts I made my brother get from Home Depot last minute. I made sure I stuck some around the screw holes.

Tonyguy · 10-13-2009

wow nice! Those P69s look pretty sick!

el_chupo_ · 10-13-2009

Have any tips or pics on pulling it apart? I will be doing something in the wife's 09 Cooper S soon... She has been bugging me for almost a year now.

Audiophillic · 10-14-2009

In a word..... Wicked! The overall install looks awesome....

simplyclean · 10-17-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tonyguy

wow nice! Those P69s look pretty sick!

When the sidepanels are back in, you can see them though the grilles.

Quote:

Originally Posted by el_chupo_

Have any tips or pics on pulling it apart? I will be doing something in the wife's 09 Cooper S soon... She has been bugging me for almost a year now.

It was pretty straightforward, except the seatback which was tricky. Google was really helpful, believe it or not. The car comes apart very nicely, the plastics are strong and the panels pop off easily and don't slice up your hands. German cars ftw.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Audiophillic

In a word..... Wicked! The overall install looks awesome....

Thanks! I should have the car back together soon and run the wires to the front as well as get everything wired up.

miniSQ · 10-17-2009

wow...how did i miss this? Awesome job and i have added this to my favorites.
I installed front comps and and soundstream MC300 amp and PG 215iX with a IDQ12 v3 in my own 2009 Mini Cooper S

Are you going to use any kind of OEM integration device like the Cleansweep or RF 3Sixty?

I am listening to mine and thinking i would like to try that route next, currently i am using a LOC that i tapped into the front speakers.

I did not replace the rear speakers, i only faded them completely out. This was a time issue as i did not have time to go that far at the time.'

Thanks for putting the pictures up...can't wait until you get to the fronts...as you have seen in nam...the passive crossover fits nicely in the armrest....here is mine...sorry for the crappy picture.

Leno · 10-22-2009

simple,clean and effective -- I like it ! Rock the mini ! Neat car as well . Now go crank some Tesla on that badboy -- lololol -- well when you get it playing at least lololol --

bmwproboi05 · 10-22-2009

i found the sound not so plesent with the tweeter in the mid location, and better in the a pillar area. gonna order the pillers later when i get the dough its 90 dollars

simplyclean · 10-24-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by miniSQ

wow...how did i miss this? Awesome job and i have added this to my favorites.

Are you going to use any kind of OEM integration device like the Cleansweep or RF 3Sixty?

Thanks for putting the pictures up...can't wait until you get to the fronts...as you have seen in nam...the passive crossover fits nicely in the armrest....here is mine...sorry for the crappy picture.

Thanks! No integration device, I'm pretty sure it's not needed even though I haven't had a chance to verify it yet. Once of the reasons why I went with the Arc Mini was the high level in and the signal sense, along with the small footprint. At one time I was going to go with a PDX-5 and 'H650, but I didn't want to complicate things too much and create potential headaches for myself (yet) because it's not my car. After this basic system goes in, I'll pitch another 2 channels to go active and processing

I haven't looked at the doors yet, but I'll look into that location for the passives. I'd rather not mount them in the door, but it might be easier that way for now. I'll look into that. Thanks for the heads up. I hope the passive isnt too big.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Leno

simple,clean and effective -- I like it ! Rock the mini ! Neat car as well . Now go crank some Tesla on that badboy -- lololol -- well when you get it playing at least lololol --

I kinda like the car too, it's looks a lot better than it did before the window tint and the John Cooperworks grille when it looked too cute. The car itself needs really needs to sit ~1.5" closer to the ground; the wheelgap is f-ugly.

Quote:

Originally Posted by bmwproboi05

i found the sound not so plesent with the tweeter in the mid location, and better in the a pillar area. gonna order the pillers later when i get the dough its 90 dollars

I'm going to stick with the stock location for now, just to keep it simple for now, although I've thought about putting the tweeter in the kickpanel or A-pillars. I dunno if all that work in worth it since I don't know if my brother can appreciate the difference yet. Maybe I'll get him to do it down the road, since my car is still stock and I've been sitting on equipment for it for a while.

I should have the car playing with the stock fronts tommorrow.

miniSQ · 10-24-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by simplyclean

Thanks! No integration device, I'm pretty sure it's not needed even though I haven't had a chance to verify it yet. Once of the reasons why I went with the Arc Mini was the high level in and the signal sense, along with the small footprint. At one time I was going to go with a PDX-5 and 'H650, but I didn't want to complicate things too much and create potential headaches for myself (yet) because it's not my car. After this basic system goes in, I'll pitch another 2 channels to go active and processing

I haven't looked at the doors yet, but I'll look into that location for the passives. I'd rather not mount them in the door, but it might be easier that way for now. I'll look into that. Thanks for the heads up. I hope the passive isnt too big.

I kinda like the car too, it's looks a lot better than it did before the window tint and the John Cooperworks grille when it looked too cute. The car itself needs really needs to sit ~1.5" closer to the ground; the wheelgap is f-ugly.

I'm going to stick with the stock location for now, just to keep it simple for now, although I've thought about putting the tweeter in the kickpanel or A-pillars. I dunno if all that work in worth it since I don't know if my brother can appreciate the difference yet. Maybe I'll get him to do it down the road, since my car is still stock and I've been sitting on equipment for it for a while.

I should have the car playing with the stock fronts tomorrow.

I have an old school amp..no speaker level ins..i initially did a david navone loc..but have been reading that LOCs trim the bass response, so i recently spied a cleansweep on ebay for $100 so i am going to try that in place a of a LOC..i will report back on the differences if any.

I agree...i want to tint my windows too...

Ditto for the placing the tweets in the 4" mid location...it is totally fine....i have my tweets there and the image is high and well in front of me....no complaints there.

I will check back to see how the fronts are coming....and you should post this over at NAM

Audiophillic · 10-24-2009

If you do an oem integration piece, Arc's SRI is a fine piece, and what I went within our r50. Little pricier than most LOC's, totally worth it though, and with that mini amp, would sing perfectly....

bmwproboi05 · 10-24-2009

i hope you dont end up with the retarted ground noise, and alternator noise i got from doing the loc stuff.

miniSQ · 10-25-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by bmwproboi05

i hope you dont end up with the retarted ground noise, and alternator noise i got from doing the loc stuff.

I have done the LOC thing and the speaker level into an amp thing on my 09 mini...no noise at all. And i am using 10ga power wire and ground wire....maybe if i beef that up i will get noise???

bmwproboi05 · 10-25-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by miniSQ

I have done the LOC thing and the speaker level into an amp thing on my 09 mini...no noise at all. And i am using 10ga power wire and ground wire....maybe if i beef that up i will get noise???

mayb. i used a 0ga wire. funny thing is that when we switched it to ftermarket h.u problem went away. i think ours has a bad factroy h.u

nfn15037 · 10-26-2009

Lookin' good!