My progress is yet once again halted. I had to have a facet block, I was told to just lay up for a week or so. DAMNIT!!!! Lemme tell you guys/gals IF, your doctor says you need one of these exhaust EVERY single option before hand. I've had no less than 13 injections in my spine over the past several years. I cannot put into words how it feels, the closest thing I've had that is this bad is kidney stones. That said, I had one of those hit me last week about half the size of a pencil eraser... OH THE FUN!!!
NUFF of that shit. I did sneak out to a buddies shop to bead blast my Sony processor covers. They have seen many years of use and several different cars, its time to show them some love. I'll post some pics of the covers after bead blasting and painting a bit later.
These pics are what is behind the kicks, this should give an idea of how tight of a space I have to work in, and objects that I have to avoid. Its been a bit tricky.
This picture just shows how tight the door wiring is. I can see NO WAY to install my wires without taking the door off. I wont be doing that! I'm just going to pick up the wires behind the radio for the 8's I'll be using. If you look just below and close to the hinge you will see 3 grommets.
Lastly, the doors. I'm going to make a panel just like you see at the bottom that is carpeted. It will go up past where the 61/2 hole is. This panel will be sealed and attached through the door card into the door itself for rigidity.
I've made some progress. I have some cleaning up to do but they
are ALMOST ready for carpet and houndstooth. The houndstooth
will be the center parts of the pods, centers behind the grills for the
doors, and centers for the seats. Does anyone know of an expandable
foam that isn't sticky? I have an idea for my grills that will give a molded
look but should be very easy to build.
I got the door cards off and discovered building new ones will be much more difficult than expected. All the holes and through holes for mounting and various passes of handles, pulls, mounting push buttons. This is going to take time! My plan is to duplicate the factory door cards and sculpt the part that the factory carpets out of foam. I'll then take that foam part as a mold and glass over it. This will then give me a duplicate of the door pocket under the arm rest. Its good for hiding stuff. This sculpted part will only be a cover for the 8" door pod that will be sealed. As said before I have two choices of drivers 8" quarts and 8" OZ superman logo's. These will be sealed pods because I don't want a bass heavy or boomy door, if it turns out to be too small I'll look into APM or venting. I don't yet know if I will carpet, paint, or vinyl the lower sculpted part?? Any thoughts?
I've decided to complete the entire build then go back and upholster everything at one time, for two reasons. To keep parts clean, fresh and matching, and because I'm having a difficult time finding carpet, leather, and vinyl the color I want.
I did find the first little bit of sound deadening in the car, a good sheet 2ftx2ft on the outer door skin.
For sealed midbass enclosures, that big oval cut-out at the bottom of the door looks like a prime location to get some more air space for the enclosure (i.e. recess the enclosure inside the door here). But IMHO mount the midbass as far forward in the door as possible, using the factory location in this case, to minimize PLD...and extend the enclosure forward from the cut-out to the driver.
Quote:
Originally Posted by FLYONWALL9
I got the door cards off and discovered building new ones will be much more difficult than expected. All the holes and through holes for mounting and various passes of handles, pulls, mounting push buttons. This is going to take time! My plan is to duplicate the factory door cards and sculpt the part that the factory carpets out of foam. I'll then take that foam part as a mold and glass over it. This will then give me a duplicate of the door pocket under the arm rest. Its good for hiding stuff. This sculpted part will only be a cover for the 8" door pod that will be sealed. As said before I have two choices of drivers 8" quarts and 8" OZ superman logo's. These will be sealed pods because I don't want a bass heavy or boomy door, if it turns out to be too small I'll look into APM or venting. I don't yet know if I will carpet, paint, or vinyl the lower sculpted part?? Any thoughts?
I've decided to complete the entire build then go back and upholster everything at one time, for two reasons. To keep parts clean, fresh and matching, and because I'm having a difficult time finding carpet, leather, and vinyl the color I want.
I did find the first little bit of sound deadening in the car, a good sheet 2ftx2ft on the outer door skin.
Thanks for the encouragement and idea's guys! It does help to keep me motivated
jsun_g,
My thoughts exactly on the enclosure. However, that large oval cut out is where the concealed door pocket is. If you look at the pic with the card in place that large carpeted part is the pocket. As you suggest I was going to use the factory speaker hole, much to my surprise it already has a nice large cup that goes into that void. So, I'll mimic that cup and build out off the card a couple of inches. The part that I am going to be sculpting out of foam and glassing will then be a cover so to speak for the MB enclosure. I'm not sure how much air space I'll be able to get, I have some notes from years ago when I spoke with Quart where they modeled response for me. I'll have to dig those up and get as close as possible.
Again, thanks for the insight. If the above seems bassackwards please post up.
Any new updates or new plans? Are you still going for the kick panels? In a way I hope so seeing the work you have allready into it. I bet it would sound good and wide. I wouldn't want to miss that space in my daily driven though.
The kicks are done, they just need carpet. They will get that when I do the rest of the floors. You know how the factory panels are made? Up and well off the floor? My kicks are just like those, in fact I used the factory panels as a mold. So, honestly you don't even know they are in the car.
I've been working on the AC for the past couple of weeks, I hope to have that done this weekend. I have both door panels cut out along with my 8" baffles, I just need to sculpt (from foam blocks) the door pockets and glass them.
Without question this is taking MUCH longer than I hoped it would, puts into perspective my poor health.
I'm going to watch this one. No worries about taking your time, no one is paying you to do this. Besides, if you knew how many months I spend thinking about my own builds before I even touch a tool, I think we'd be on the same page in terms of time frame. Keep up the good work!
Old Ride Current: '96 Land Rover Discovery, '92 Ford Ranger, '89 Nissan Sentras Install Pictures
Do we have any PhotoChop junkies in the bunch? What I am
looking for is for someone to change the colors of this door
skin. Perhaps two different renderings if at all possible. One
would be all red but lets say closer to Crimson Tide red, but
the bottom where you see the carpeted area in a gloss silver
the color of the car. The next would be leave the top cap part
black, red centers with the silver gloss bottom. I'm thinking
the last rendering is going to be too busy, as suggested by
other P-car members. But with something to look at this will
make it easier to judge.
ANY help would be great, the job doesn't have to be perfect
by any means just something to give me some sort of idea.
" You don't appreciate a lot of stuff in school until you get older. Little things like being spanked every day by a middle-aged woman. Stuff you pay good money for in later life." ~ Elmo Phillips
Last edited by rawdawg; 09-16-2010 at 01:05 AM..
Reason: forgot pics...
THANKS for that! Honestly now, its a toss up neither look bad. It
does give a a very good idea how it will turn out.
The portion in front of the door pull and above the factory speaker,
is it just my computer or is this black? Has the color been changed
on it and due to my photo it was unable to really make it as red
as the other parts?
The portion in front of the door pull and above the factory speaker,
is it just my computer or is this black? Has the color been changed
on it and due to my photo it was unable to really make it as red
as the other parts?
Looks red to me, just a little darker. Probably because it's in the shadows a bit.
Oh, PS, if you're going to bead-blast the crossover covers, have you considered powder-coating them? I don't know if you already did that part, but I wanted to offer it as a suggestion because it would be much more durable than paint.
Old Ride Current: '96 Land Rover Discovery, '92 Ford Ranger, '89 Nissan Sentras Install Pictures
I already painted them with PPG to match the Sony colors
of that time. I have a brand new CDX-91 that I used to
color match. Then they were clear coated. I have a friend
that powder coats that offered I just didn't feel like driving
them 100 miles round trip for a job I could do myself.
I already painted them with PPG to match the Sony colors
of that time. I have a brand new CDX-91 that I used to
color match. Then they were clear coated. I have a friend
that powder coats that offered I just didn't feel like driving
them 100 miles round trip for a job I could do myself.
Thanks for the suggestion
You're welcome. I would love to see pics when you get the chance.
Old Ride Current: '96 Land Rover Discovery, '92 Ford Ranger, '89 Nissan Sentras Install Pictures
I hope to have some pics up this weekend. I'm going to make panels for
the large holes in the door, seal, deaden, lastly CCF. Install a new AC
Evap blower and motor. If I get a chance to do a final sand and rub I'll
shoot pics of all that I have done now.
With my pass door skin off I laid down some deadening tiles. I cannot even begin to explain how much of a difference this made in the door, it is so much more solid. Even with the new door skin off I can tell a huge benefit. The car only had a smallish 8x8 piece in the middle of the outter skin. I did both inner and outer metal parts of the door as much as I could with my huge hands. I do have PICS, come later.
While I recovered from a facet block on my lower back and still high, my creative brain was in over drive. I've been trying to figure out what to put both my XES-P1,
XES-X1 in. The mounting spot will be the rear floor board, so this will need to be water tight. Not wanting to build anything I decided to use a warming tray, you know those serving trays at a buffet. Stainless steel, nice rounded corners, and a lip to fasten and calk/CCF, best part cost 8 bucks!. The fit is perfect, both in the car and the processors which will go in them. I will put down my tiles, then CCF, build a block of foam to form up a false floor and hold the processor boxes in place. Oh, lastly I will put MLV and carpet. I'm thinking the foam will also reduce some of the floor noise. Again, PICS of the processor covers resting in the heating treys will be posted in a bit.
With my pass door skin off I laid down some deadening tiles. I cannot even begin to explain how much of a difference this made in the door, it is so much more solid. Even with the new door skin off I can tell a huge benefit. I did both inner and outer metal parts of the door as much as I could with my huge hands. I do have PICS, come later.
While I recovered from a facet block on my lower back and still high, my creative brain was in over drive. I've been trying to figure out what to put both my XES-P1,
XES-X1 in. The mounting spot will be the rear floor board, so this will need to be water tight. Not wanting to build anything I decided to use a warming trey, you know those serving trays at a buffet. Stainless steel, nice rounded corners, and a lip to fasten and calk/CCF. The fit is perfect, both in the car and the processors which will go in them. I will put down my tiles, then CCF, build a block of foam to form up a false floor and hold the processor boxes in place. Oh, lastly I will put MLV and carpet. I'm thinking the foam will also reduce some of the floor noise. Again, PICS of the processor covers resting in the heating treys will be posted in a bit.
I'm definitely looking forward for the pics. How thick of foam will you be using? Unless it's really thick, don't expect it to block noise. It can absorb very high frequency airborne noises, it can be used to decouple your mass layer, or it can be used to simply fill space. Just don't expect miracles, I once had 2" of CCF in the trunk of my car and it didn't change anything. Did pad the floor a bit, though.
Old Ride Current: '96 Land Rover Discovery, '92 Ford Ranger, '89 Nissan Sentras Install Pictures
The car didn't have a plastic vap blocker like yours, zero, nadda. So, I'm mostly using it for that, or I have some MLV I could use. Tit for tat really, filling those large holes will help greatly. I'll use CCF under the vinyl also, if you look above the skins have a ///// like deal in them. Cant decide if I want to just cut it in the CCF or have it done like the factory panel.
I did find some trash in my paint for the p1,x1 so they will get a redo or I may just mix some color in the clear and be done with it. The coolest thing ever is the little tray deals I found.
Are the inner skins of your doors as wobbly as the ones on my 944? I found that a couple of slightly contoured aluminum plates and those pods I bolted to mine made them a lot more solid.
Yeah I'm several months behind when I wanted to finish. Oh well huh....
The doors in this thing are solid as a rock, the outter has a rather large bar in it, the inner was really pretty stiff because of all the changes in the panel. Glad to hear your back on yours too!
I know it sounded really cheeseball but as you see they look pretty dang good and will work like a CHAMP... Stoked to find something already made, one last thing I have to worry with.
I'm trying to understand the warming tray... er, "amp racks" will mount. You said it has to be water-tight because it's going in the rear floorboard? Where, and how so? I just didn't understand your description 100%.
Anyway, one thought is you may want to cut a piece of MDF or thick HDPE or something other than metal to go in the bottom of the warming trays. That would serve as a mounting surface for the processors. I think it's generally a bad idea to mount amps, processors, or any other electronics directly to any metal surface. It tends to be flimsy and resonant (read: vibration prone, damaging solder joints inside the component), and can conduct electrical noise. I'm guessing you've already thought of this, but it's worth mentioning.
Old Ride Current: '96 Land Rover Discovery, '92 Ford Ranger, '89 Nissan Sentras Install Pictures
I really needed a distraction today. I had to bury my 101 year old great aunt today. To think of someone who was born in 1909, the things she has seen and gone through baffles the mind. To be able to have gone through all the wars, and finical hardships of the time, then towards the end see our first black President I'm sure was a shock. She had a fantastic memory even up to the end, would read the news paper every day. I could only hope/wish that in my end I am half the person she was.. To know her was to love her, she had such a sweet old soul. No matter what day it was once you walked into her room she would glow. it was the little things that made her happy, and the person she was. Such simple things brought her so much joy, a box of 'fish crackers' on her birthday would put you on her Gold List. If you paid her a visit and had a 4 legged pet and didn't bring it for the visit it would move you down on said Gold List. It makes one think of how our world would be if we all followed in her footsteps. Aside from my father she was the last surviving member who carried our family name. More over, to be laid aside her sisters, and the rest of our family it sure put into perspective just how fragile our existence really is. I will miss her with my every breath. In the end she was very worried about her afterlife, you see in all those years she had never been baptized. Every week her Pastor would visit her, even at 101 she would give an offering to the church. She expressed her concerns, the Pastor assured her that simply doesn't mean your not going to heaven. "As long as you excepted Jesus, walked down the path you once again be with your sisters." Even so, a baptism was scheduled in two weeks.
So, needing something to take my mind off of things I decided to work on my door panels. Live said I already cut out the door card. The hardest part is what I worked on, making a mold from foam for the door pocket and map pocket. pics to follow
The process
I got sheets of 1/2" foam from Lowes used Super77 to glue up 4 sheets to match up the thickness of the arm rest and pocket. Then with a belt sander I started shaping the foam much like surf board makers do. I got the rough shape then came back with a "corner cat" jig sander using 220 grit paper. For the most part I have the shape I will be using. I will then cover all of the foam with tape and glass over it.
I do have a dilemma, I'm trying to figure out do I want to mount the MB driver to this rather complicated (in shape) mold. OR, should I use it as a skin. What I mean is I can make an enclosure which will be mounted to the door then the molded part cover all this? If I mount the driver to the molded part it would be rather easy to finish off. If not then I will have to cut and make a complicated shaped grill. I guess if I did this I could use the cut out to make the grill. I know all this is hard to follow. I'll take pics tomorrow to make the visual much easier.
The really hard part will be making the drivers door match the passengers, you'll see what I mean when the pics are up. If the 1st attempt works out I'll then do a step by step with pics of the process I used.