Nice job on the doors, by the way. Are you sure you don't want to fill up those holes with sheet metal or something first, then do the MLV? Really those two things serve two different functions, using both seems like it would be the best of both worlds. Isolate the front wave from the back so you can have some mid-bass, and block some airborne noise with the MLV as well. I actually ditched the vapor barrier completely after I sealed up the doors, there was no point in keeping it.
I hope I'm not making too much extra work for you, haha. I'm glad to see this coming along!
Old Ride Current: '96 Land Rover Discovery, '92 Ford Ranger, '89 Nissan Sentras Install Pictures
I will be covering the holes with resin coated hard board after I put CDL tiles on them. I was going to use the CCF either on the back of the door card or on the door itself. I've been kicking around the idea using MLV in the mix one way or another. My main reason for the CCF is to act as the vapor barrier for the most part. I think I spoke with SOUNDDEADENERSHOWDOWN asking if I should use MLV on the doors. It seems like he told me I may not get all that much result in doing the doors. NOW, please keep in mind I am on some REALLY harsh dope, so, I could have just thought this and he not even tell me this at all. Maybe if he is following my build he could get me straight on this. My first order of the stuff may not be enough to do all of the car so I'm sure at some point I will run out.
Thanks again for your advise. I'm sure I've lost many people with this build because of its snails pace, so any advise will always be taken into consideration.
Don't worry about the snail's pace. Yeah, realistically, I wouldn't worry about MLV in the doors, unless you'd already done the floor and wanted to take it to the next level. Most people I've seen that use it just do the entire floor to cut down on road noise. CCF is fine in the doors, as long as you know that all it really does is make the panel a snug fit, thereby cutting down on some panel squeaks and such. It's a fine vapor barrier I suppose, and also adds a bit of insulation.
Have fun, post pics when you have them. I'm sure to be watching.
Old Ride Current: '96 Land Rover Discovery, '92 Ford Ranger, '89 Nissan Sentras Install Pictures
Thanks all for the kind words about my aunt. She will surely
be missed, however, she is in a much better place. No longer
in pain...
Did a bit of molding yesterday, thought I would check my work
after it got dark today. I knew taking pics of this thing in the day
ya'll wouldn't be able to see the contour of the foam.
To mount the speakers, I will CCF the inside of both parts to
give me 1/4" gap. Mask off the CCF, hot glue the speaker rings
I've made to match the factory speaker holes in the doors. Then
with kitty hair I will fill the gaps around the rings then glass. That
will be the baffle that mounts to the door itself. The part you see
in the pics will then go over it. All that will be left to do is make
molded grills.
with the door closed, test fit shows I need to take about 1/8" off where it
contacts the knee pad on the dash. All in all not too far off for the first
try.
I'm not quite understanding, are you saying you only molded this for one side? How will you invert it? Whether you glass it inside or out, it's still going to be a passenger side door panel. Unless of course you have a suicide door on the driver's side. Or did I misunderstand?
Old Ride Current: '96 Land Rover Discovery, '92 Ford Ranger, '89 Nissan Sentras Install Pictures
Scott, that looks like a good shape. I would think that that would disappear into the interior once you had it covered. I think I missed this: will it be a sealed enclosure, or open to the door cavity?
Scott, that looks like a good shape. I would think that that would disappear into the interior once you had it covered. I think I missed this: will it be a sealed enclosure, or open to the door cavity?
Thanks Charlie...
I have a bit of shaving / shaping left to do but in all this is close to what I'm after. I don't know if you saw this in other posts but I'm going with 'Lobster' int, getting away from black. The foam you see with be painted to match the outside of the car. The back of the door will once closed look like it follows around to the other door with a panel that covers the sub enclosure. Also that will be silver. In time I will build a center console that wll mate up to that sub panel and also be paint matched. Kind of like they did to the GT3. I will have to build the console because I'll be putting in a sequential shifter.
Picture a late 50's-60's convert Vette. Remember how that console met and then formed little tubs the seats were sunk into? I'm sure I will get flamed by the P-car owners......
That is the plan anyway, we both know how plans go. They often get changed or all together thrown out the window
HOW is your project? Your weather has been FANTASTIC as of late!
HOW is your project? Your weather has been FANTASTIC as of late!
It will be back soon! I'm actually planning a small update for this weekend (our Thanksgiving). I just finished up the track season -- you're right that we've been really lucky with weather -- and we're just about to pour a new slab at the farm which will be a garage (with a hoist) for my various automotive projects this winter. We're going to insulate and heat it, and everything! No more freezing my fingers in the winter!
I love those red interiors, but make sure that you do keep some black (carpets? seats?) for contrast.
I've decided to make a major design change, due to a couple of factors. The most of which is time, secondly being ability due mostly in part to health. My original design was to have the enclosure go in place of the rear seats. This will remain purely because its about the only place to come up with 3 cubic feet. I will still have a board 2 to 3" above the subs in efforts to load them, being a TARGA I would loose output with the top off. This will counter that a bit. I'll have a panel which can be removed to access the subs and fuses. The bit that will be changed is the amp rack. I was going to use linear actuators to raise the rack to access the fuses to be mounted on top of the enclosure. It would have done the duties of the loading board. As thin as my Blade amps are I think it will make the rack combined with the sub enclosure too tall using too much room in the back. Instead I will make the rack mount on the back wall or engine firewall and no automation.
All in all this change will take up less room and hope to make the install a bit more stealth like. Also, I will be able to use materials that weigh less. The RS model of my car had a seat delete with a box in its place to store junk. So, to mimic this at first glance is key. The slot in the front of the enclosure, I will make a grill that looks like the grill on the engine lid. This will add some contrast and break up the 'box' look that the RS had.
So, my hope is to reduce production time and use less room overall. I still have to make some templates to see if this will really work because combined the amps are nearly 40" in length very close to the width of the firewall.
ALL OPEN TO SUGGESTION from those interested.
Cheers
I'll start back with the door build tomorrow.... I HOPE
In my last post I said I was going to need to make changes. This has become rather evident while working on my doors. After just a few hours I was in some really major pain. I think I am going to need to invest in some sort of nice bar stool so that I can work at my bench without the fatigue and stress standing at the bench puts on my spine.
Anyway, I don't have pics but I do have an update. I was going extend the door pocket to include a cover for the housing for my 8's. Rather than doing that I decided to make that easier also. The 8's will flush mount to the pocket extension. Doing so I may not even have to cut the door at all, which I would much rather do. Now how this is going to sound is unknown. I will make them as solid as possible so no matter which 8 I end up using, (OZ or Quart) I shouldn't get any flex. They are looking pretty nice, on the other hand may end up looking goofy due to the LARGE speaker VS size of the door.
NOW, HERE IS MY QUESTION
If you look back at my door pics you will see the factory pocket is carpeted. This sure would be easy to duplicate and again cut my build time down some because the level at which I would need to fair the panel would be minimal. What I really wanted to do was to paint match them to the car. IMHO I do think this would look far more refined and modern. BUT, on the other hand not at all like a classic car. It probably wont matter much because sooner or later when I get my sequential shifter and need to build a center console I was going to again paint match it to the car.
What do you guys/gal's think I should do?
On a positive note, I found an upholstery shop to do my seats for a reasonable price 1200 doesn't seem too bad. He did order my vinyl and carpet for the rest of the car. I cant wait to have that red classic sports car look!
OH, on the coolness; the fab shop I am using should have my NIDACORE baffle for my subs done next week. This should save me some massive weight. Example a full sheet of HDF/MDF will weigh 50-55lbs my NIDACORE should come in at 26lbs for a sheet. Every little bit helps.... I'll be using balsa core for all my trim panels and amp rack panels, glassed that is.
Might I suggest to wrap the doorpods in something similar to the part on the top of the door and the original arm rests? The carpet thing might make the pods seem huge. The whole dash it connects to is wrapped in black vinyl as well and it would stand out from the red door card.
You could add some red details to the dash, kind of like this:
(photo borrowed from cnielsen, pelicanparts forums)
Classic styling
1982 Porsche 911 SC, Pioneer P88-RSII active 2-way front + sub, Genesis Series III 4 Channel, 1&2 to Hertz ML 1600 woofers, 3&4 bridged to a JBL GTO 804 sub in the front trunk, Vifa XT25 sc-90 04 tweeters powered by a Genesis Series III Stereo 60.
Roland,
That is not a bad idea. I'll have to see how much give the vinyl has after heat is applied. The part I made has some rather complex shape. I agree carpet would make it look HUGE, doing it in any black material would exaggerate its size quite a bit I would think. Just the fact that the grill and ring are black is bad enough. Perhaps, the perf material that will be used in the centers of the seat would not be a bad idea either. The perf in the material may make it conform easier as well. hmmm..Along with doing the dash center as you showed. I do like that look. thanks for reminding me of that car!
I decided to utilize the stock door pocket as part of the door pods for my 8" midbass. I thought this was the best way to ensure both panels are as close to alike as possible. First I mocked up both panels the same with rings and battens to space the rings off the door card. Pretty standard stuff
A bit hard to see in these photo's but the pocket lip which is what mates the pocket to the car is badly warped. Expected from a 20 year old car. My plan is to use some marine mahogany ply that I have, make a lip to attach it from the front. This will build it out some. Most important is for it to be flat because these pockets will be glassed and painted. Its very critical to me anyway that this looks perfect, as if it were part of the body of the car.
Lastly, this is the pass side full mock up. I think the shape is fine, I will refine the edge closest to the handle. I think it would look best if I match that handle angle, that also matches up with the stitching on the card. What I was really wanting to see is how well it would look if built all the way to the door pull that opens the door. I shaped the foam with a relief to get your finger under that pull. It works really well but I just don't think the look is all that well. I'm thinking I'll also move the window switch to this part of the panel to clean the look up some.
This is pretty close to as far as I want to step it off the card. If anything I will trim it down just a bit. I don't want it to be any farther off than the arm rest shown.
So, my next step I think I am going to build out the drivers door with the above design in mind and compare the two. Making all this out of foam its very easy to add and remove. If I like that look I will shave some off the pass side and glass them both. I'll cut the glass work off the rings and pocket, dig out the foam, glass them back together. START FAIRING.....
Will that leave your hand enough room to grab the door handle? What about your poor passengers, as they hold on for dear life? Just kidding, but I did recently have to re-attach my passenger door handle because a passenger almost pulled it out on track!
I do get your point. Most of my passengers aren't brave enough to ride with me when my foot has an itch! However, my 72yo dad I keep it rather tame for him. Oddly enough; and I tried this.. When your on that side you don't even notice where the pod starts and ends near the handle. Its much like the kicks I made they are so far out of your way you don't know they are in the car. What I have now is just a bit larger than the C2's and C4's. All that just the same I do think it would look better if I cut it so that the angle matches the stitching.
I thought with that fabric one would be able to tell the contour of the panel better but I see in the pics its far worse. The way I shaved two little finger holes to grab the door open handle is pretty natural. Again, when I reshape the panel this will all go away and will look even more like the C2 and 4.
I'm VERY glad I didn't start glassing. The more I look at the panel the less I like the shape...............
Looking good, bro! I think it looks fine, but if you must reshape, reshape away. I'm picking up new ideas here and there, since I may be rebuilding the door panels in my '89 Sentra before to long. Different class of car, but same era.
Old Ride Current: '96 Land Rover Discovery, '92 Ford Ranger, '89 Nissan Sentras Install Pictures
door panels in my '89 Sentra before to long. Different class of car, but same era.
AAAAAAAAAAAAAHHH a door card is a door card is a door card! Doesn't matter what its it. Or as my Pop would say a turd is still a turd no matter how you shine it. Not callin your Sentra a turd, I'm just sayin..... AAH HELL I'LL SHUT UP NOW
AAAAAAAAAAAAAHHH a door card is a door card is a door card! Doesn't matter what its it. Or as my Pop would say a turd is still a turd no matter how you shine it. Not callin your Sentra a turd, I'm just sayin..... AAH HELL I'LL SHUT UP NOW
Well I do keep it around for a reason, it runs like a scalded dog! And yeah, very similar construction, complete with 1/8" masonite...
Old Ride Current: '96 Land Rover Discovery, '92 Ford Ranger, '89 Nissan Sentras Install Pictures
I don't know how, but I missed this the first time. Oh wait, I know how I missed it, I'm on dope. Here is the irony, your picking up ideas from a guy who spends better than 14hrs per day on pills
I don't know how, but I missed this the first time. Oh wait, I know how I missed it, I'm on dope. Here is the irony, your picking up ideas from a guy who spends better than 14hrs per day on pills
Maybe that's why you're so full of ideas, LOL. Just seeing your door panels come together is getting me motivated to redo the front stage in my car, but...
I've got a build to finish in the truck, I'm working 50 hour weeks, and by the time I finish the truck it will be the dead of winter. So basically, you're giving me ideas for next spring, unless I get a crazy streak and fire up the shop heaters.
Old Ride Current: '96 Land Rover Discovery, '92 Ford Ranger, '89 Nissan Sentras Install Pictures
by the time I finish the truck it will be the dead of winter. So basically, you're giving me ideas for next spring, unless I get a crazy streak and fire up the shop heaters.
So, what your saying iswe will be finished about the same time
and by finished I mean your Sentra not your truck...
I just started a build on my 92 Turbo. After I pulled up all the carpet and underlayment I found I had water leaking in from the front firewall.
Ripping out all the carpet (all 20 pieces of it or so) is a royal pain. I am in the process of stripping all the old glue and then do a lot of acoustic control. More of a job than I thought it would be.
I just started a build on my 92 Turbo. After I pulled up all the carpet and underlayment I found I had water leaking in from the front firewall.
Ripping out all the carpet (all 20 pieces of it or so) is a royal pain. I am in the process of stripping all the old glue and then do a lot of acoustic control. More of a job than I thought it would be.
Good luck with your project.
THANKS...
CHECK your evap drain line, mine was doing the very same. Unless you have had a windshield
done recently. Fresh air box can be a royal pain also with water leaks
Re: 89Targa Carrera
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