The H700 I'm buying is basically the same thing as a H701 w/RUX. So I will be using the H700 setup w/controller to do all DSP processing, along with volume control and audio source switching. The soundcard from the carPC will hook into the optical IN on the H700.
So the carPC will just become a source unit. No processing needed.
That should be a good configuration; I would definitely prefer that to DSP'ing on a carpc. I wouldn't be happy without discrete physical buttons for commonly tweaked settings; this is especially true for volume control.
Amps are secured down. Power/speaker wiring done. Just waiting for the RCA's to arrive tomorrow. Going to stain the veneer tomorrow as well. But this is more a preview.
That should be a good configuration; I would definitely prefer that to DSP'ing on a carpc. I wouldn't be happy without discrete physical buttons for commonly tweaked settings; this is especially true for volume control.
This is true. The touch screen is a PIA. I was tunneling into the carPC via a laptop to make most of the changes.
The stained cherry and black mesh looks great over the aluminum amp. Refresh me, why did you bother with the plexiglass? Swapping the plexy for black mesh would look better and provide better ventilation.
Last edited by mellephants; 06-23-2011 at 02:01 PM..
The stained wood frame and black metal grilles look great. Refresh me, why did you bother with the plexiglass? Swapping the plexiglass for black metal grille would look better and provide better ventilation.
Mostly because I didn't have more mesh on-hand. The old amp that was in there had active cooling. I have a cooling idea that I'll show later in this thread.
Mostly because I didn't have more mesh on-hand. The old amp that was in there had active cooling. I have a cooling idea that I'll show later in this thread.
That makes sense. Be very careful, though, I had an amp die on me when I was venting it on the intake and exhaust of its active cooling system. I had three xtant amps bolted to the top of an enclosure with nothing covering them
for awhile, then installed a 40mm fan at each end, and plexiglass covering the top, with slots cut out for the subwoofer vents. My airflow plan was:
cool air in -> [40mm fan] -> [xtant 301a] -> [vent 1] -> [xtant 302a] -> [vent 2] -> [xtant 301a] -> [40mm fan] -> hot air out
The 301a that was on on the hot side died, and I couldn't find another one to replace it, so I wound up selling the good 301 and the 302, and switching to a pg 400.1 & jbl p180.2. Long story short: I won't cover an amp with plexi again.
Anyway, what was your source for the mesh (I assume it is expanded metal)? I was planning to find a sheet of metal that has been perforated with lots of small holes, but I am thinking now that I'll want to use expanded metal instead.
Got the H700! 3m taped the sound blaster soundcard to it. Also used some mounting bases on each of the ports to help secure the connections. My new radio bezel came in as well!
Did some work last night. Got the amp rack back in. Wired up the ground/pos feeds. Fished the H700 controller wire. Mounted H700 to car and started wiring that. Also soldered up the other 1/2 of the speaker harness quick disconnect.
Just picked up a used DVA-7996. Oy it doesn't stop! I hope after this recent batch of changes I can be really happy with the setup.
Mounted the H700 to the bracket using 1/4" double-sided foam and sheet metal screws:
Can you explain how the Creative thing is mounted to the Alpine thing? It almost looks like the two are fastened directly together, which seems a bit reckless and, well, unlike you... So I maybe I'm seeing it wrong.
Also, how "live" is that metal bracket? I'm speaking both electrically and acoustically. I know you've decoupled the Alpine somewhat from the bracket with foam glazing tape, but your screws are still giving you a rigid, metal-to-metal connection. Perhaps without a sub (or a gorilla) in the truck, the vibrations are less of a concern, but it still seems like you might create multiple ground paths by grounding the chassis of the component like that. If it works, it works, I'm just wondering if/how you have addressed that, or why it is not a concern.
What I've typically done in this context is laminate a sheet of 1/2 or 3/4" MDF to the mounting face of the bracket so it is stronger, less flaccid, and a flatter surface. The MDF of course would be treated for water resistance, or you could use sheet HDPE/plastic. I secure the MDF with liquid nails, hold it in place with clamps while it cures, and generally use a few small wood screws from the back of the metal. Then I secure to that instead of the metal.
I don't know if any of that is necessary, it's just a precaution I generally take. The MDF could be carpeted or otherwise finished if it will be visible. The question of attaching directly to metal may create a grounding issue, but I'm not sure this is a concern in most modern equipment. My real concern is simply that thin metal tends to deflect quite a bit and jostle things around inside the case.
Just food for thought, no criticism intended. Excellent use of space, as always.
Old Ride Current: '96 Land Rover Discovery, '92 Ford Ranger, '89 Nissan Sentras Install Pictures
Can you explain how the Creative thing is mounted to the Alpine thing? It almost looks like the two are fastened directly together, which seems a bit reckless and, well, unlike you... So I maybe I'm seeing it wrong.
The Creative Labs thing is the USB soundcard for my carPC. I ditched the 8 channel soundcard for my original soundcard because of the optical out. So I used some 3M tape to secure the soundcard to the H700. The H700 is in OK condition on the top, so I'm not worried about any adhesive damage. I have a good bit of room behind the side wall carpet so I figured why not keep the soundcard close to the processor. The USB cable is already run back there. As is the line-in for the FM tuner.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TJ Mobile Audio
Also, how "live" is that metal bracket? I'm speaking both electrically and acoustically. I know you've decoupled the Alpine somewhat from the bracket with foam glazing tape, but your screws are still giving you a rigid, metal-to-metal connection. Perhaps without a sub (or a gorilla) in the truck, the vibrations are less of a concern, but it still seems like you might create multiple ground paths by grounding the chassis of the component like that. If it works, it works, I'm just wondering if/how you have addressed that, or why it is not a concern.
What I've typically done in this context is laminate a sheet of 1/2 or 3/4" MDF to the mounting face of the bracket so it is stronger, less flaccid, and a flatter surface. The MDF of course would be treated for water resistance, or you could use sheet HDPE/plastic. I secure the MDF with liquid nails, hold it in place with clamps while it cures, and generally use a few small wood screws from the back of the metal. Then I secure to that instead of the metal.
I understand your concern. The foam tape was there to help decouple the H700 from the car. I originally used self tapping sheet metal screws to hold down the H700 but I'm going to swap them out for plastic screws/nuts to ensure no ground loop issues. The unit will not be seen so there's no need to make a carpeted panel. All about clean wiring, and function at this point.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TJ Mobile Audio
Just food for thought, no criticism intended. Excellent use of space, as always.
Thanks man. I wish I had room in the amp rack.. but the Aura's are HUGE.
...I understand your concern. The foam tape was there to help decouple the H700 from the car. I originally used self tapping sheet metal screws to hold down the H700 but I'm going to swap them out for plastic screws/nuts to ensure no ground loop issues. The unit will not be seen so there's no need to make a carpeted panel. All about clean wiring, and function at this point...
Thought of zip ties? You have no idea how many components I've installed with zip ties. In fact, one of my corner marker headlights has been held in place with zip ties for four years now, installed from the back side so you'd never know. I'm sure you have some on hand...
Quote:
Originally Posted by BowDown
Thanks man. I wish I had room in the amp rack.. but the Aura's are HUGE.
Indeed. Sounds like you've thought it all out though, I was just curious.
Old Ride Current: '96 Land Rover Discovery, '92 Ford Ranger, '89 Nissan Sentras Install Pictures
In order to zip tie it down I would have to wrap around the whole thing. The holes in the H700 are slotted. So there's no real grip unless I install those stick down mounts.
I really don't need any screws on the unit. The adhesive on the double-sided 1/4" thick foam tape is crazy.
On that note, if you can get your hands on some curtain wall tape, it's about the stickiest stuff I've seen. It's CCF with adhesive designed to hold the glass panes in skyscrapers and other commercial buildings, I've used it on windows in areas with 80+ MPH winds and it holds up fine. Holds glass, aluminum, steel, etc. Clean both surfaces with rubbing alcohol for maximum grip. But yeah, what you've got is probably adequate, even sans screws.
Old Ride Current: '96 Land Rover Discovery, '92 Ford Ranger, '89 Nissan Sentras Install Pictures
H700 is wired in minus an optical cable I had to order. Also ordered some ABS plastic to fill in the sync display area on the new radio bezel.
The new PC adjustable mount is in mockup stages. Pulled the sub out so I can rip off the vinyl and make way for the new carpet. Also changes to the wiring are done to accommodate the Alpine DVA-7996. Going to need to create a custom stereo mounting bracket because of the sub box bracket sharing the same mounting point.
Amp rack is back in and wired up. Just need to re-carpet the bezel. Lots of things in motion.. look for more pics in the coming week.
She's on the home stretch!
Wife is cracking the whip financially now.. good thing I have the hardware to pull off what I want. Just hoping everything works in harmony when I fire it up. I can't blame her.. as you know this project has went on a long time. Consuming alot of time/money. Back to the house project after this summer.
Grr. During mockup I discovered the Scosche Radio bezel located the din openings about 1/2" higher up than the Metra. Now my HU wont fit without cutting apart the bezel. Sun-of-a.. I bought the better bezel because there would be LESS modification needed.
Re: 2010 Fusion SQ Installation Thread
Be very careful, though, I had an 
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