Moving onto the power feed. I decided to run the 0 gauge cable under the car, so ran it through some 25mm electric conduit for safety. After removing the inner plastic guard from the front left fender, I found a big open grommet with more than enough room for the 0 gauge to pass through. This comes out right underneath the OEM fuse box.
To bring the cable back in the car I found a spot under the rear seat riser that wasn't double skinned metal or obscured by cables and pipes.
I used a 1" sheet metal hole-punch. If you're going to be doing a lot of installs, these are a necessity! So much cleaner than a hole saw!
Then secured with some cable ties and insulated p-clips.
Update (finally!!)
Got the distro cradle painted and cleared. I got the sub done also, but had a reaction in the paint so will need to do that again later on once the weather has warmed up again.
I've run the speaker wiring front to back, just need to put terminals on both ends. The single rca from the H/U is also run. Since the 101E only has one line out, I'll be using the 'summing' feature on the 3Sixty. I won't have any fader ability, but I can live with that for now.
Then started the arduous task of wiring up the switch panel and amp rack. To make install/removal a bit easier, I've used 6 & 4 pin plugs for the wiring between them.
I've used heavy duty battery connectors for the main power feed into the amp rack.
Here you can see the wiring for the LED lights and fans and also the barrier strips for the speaker wiring to connect to the amp rack.
And the rest of the amp rack wiring done (thank god!). I've probably got close to 10 hours in the wiring alone!
And last but not least, I got the RCA's for the mids & tweets done. I used Cat6 network cable for 4x twisted pairs.
First, strip the sheathing off the cable
Then solder the +v end, followed by some heatshrink
Then the earth, more heatshink and a good crimp
And finally, some techflex and labels
Ran out of heatshrink so couldn't get the sub leads done, but will do so next weekend.
Sub RCA's are done
0 gauge ground made up, techflexed, heat shrinked, etc and bolted down to one of the rear strut bolts.
Amp rack bolted in place and RCA's run to the side panel
And speaker wiring labeled, heat shrinked, terminated and connected to the barrier strips
I have my bachelor party on Saturday, so there won't be any progress this weekend, but hope to have at least the sub in and playing before our wedding in 2-1/2 weeks
And finished it all off with some techflex and heatshrink.
What diameter conduit did you use? What brand was it? I will probably be doing something similar so I can come in through the spare tire well w/o having to raise the floor in the back.
What diameter conduit did you use? What brand was it? I will probably be doing something similar so I can come in through the spare tire well w/o having to raise the floor in the back.
Thanks,
Jay
Sorry about the slack reply mate! It's 30mm diameter conduit made by 'Marley', which is a kiwi manufacturer, so you'll have trouble locating it in the US I'd imagine! Shouldn't be too hard to find a similar product over there though.
The good news is, after a few teething problems getting the 3Sixty to connect to the laptop via Bluetooth, I finally got the pretty blue light to work
The bad news is my subamp is fuxored Even with no RCA's, it's putting out a high pitched noise through the sub. I'll send it up to Dee to see if it's worth fixing, but I may be on the look out for another amp.
In other news, I've got the tweets mounted in the factory sail panels. I ended up using the Dayton ND20's I had aside for my VW project, they were the only tweets in my stash that would fit behind the grills.
Mounting rings for the DLS MS6 mids are also done and have the first coat of epoxy resin on them.
I'll have it all done someday!
I found a similar flexible conduit over here (at Home Depot). I believe it's called ENT. Having a hard time finding similar ends to yours for ENT. I found some that would work if I was using a non-flexible tubing, but that won't work...guess I'll keep looking. Do you know if those ends were specifically for the flexible stuff?
Yea the ends are designed so the conduit locks in to place when you push it in. I'd be happy to pick a couple up for you but I suspect shipping would be more than the parts are worth!
I figured something out. I got a piece that snaps on the ENT and gives me a male threaded end...then I used a PVC coupler followed by a PVC 90 degree end. Whole thing was about $4...and then I'll just need the tubing (which is about $14).
I just spent like 15 minutes in the aisle at home depot looking at my options.
Re: Subaru GTB Wagon Build - SQ on a shoestring
Even with no RCA's, it's putting out a high pitched noise through the sub. I'll send it up to Dee to see if it's worth fixing, but I may be on the look out for another amp.
Linear Mode
