Audison Bit One (Hi-res: 56k, Go make some coffee and take a nap)

[ARCuhTEK]

For current Bit One owners:

Does the Bit One allow you to program and save different scenarios/settings?

My wife does not like bass music and it would be nice if I could quickly access a different sound scenario. Operative word here is "quickly" access. I realize that even if the Bit One DID offer saved settings, I have no idea how I woudl access them on the fly without a laptop.

I am seriously considering putting my dedicated sub woofer amplifier on a toggle switch (remote wire only) and placing the toggle switch in an overhead location so that I can quickly turn the low end bass off totally. The 530w front stage will be more than enough (and still probably too much) for her.

I also know the volume knob is an option too....but not really being able to judge how powerful this system will be....I am thinking she will be annoyed even at low levels for the power I have in store.

Any thoughts?

[DIYMA]

[bikinpunk]

the bit one's controller has 4 preset buttons. you can call these up on the fly.

[pyropoptrt]

on top of the four different presets, I believe the controller can adjust sub volume as well. Just food for thought.

[ARCuhTEK]

Ahhhhhhhh Thank you both!

[slvrtsunami]

Damn Italians!!! They HAVE to put out something nice and small and perfect for my future upgrade path. Only if I could afford it right now. Gotta be patient.

[ticklenow1]

Just for the record, I have just installed the Audison Bit One in my Mazda 6. I have had no problems with noise issues that some others have had. All I did was use audiophile grade interconnects (AudioQuest) and earth the Amp and Audison to the one spot.

It has definitely made a massive difference to the sound. The rear speakers in my 6 used to sound terrible (Hertz) but now they sound as they should. I am really looking forward to being able to get it tuned properly as I am sure that a good installer with a little experience with the Bit One could really improve upon my settings. I look forward to having the 4 presets so I can change the equalization with the different types of music that I listen to. I didn't really play with the settings too much as I had a few problems with the power supply side of things. One thing I had to do though was use the remote in terminal on the Bit One to get a remote out to turn my amp on and off (PDX4.100) otherwise I got a horrible popping sound when I turned it on.

On the down side, the test disc would not play that loud in my player. I think this is something that I did wrong as I didn't have the output volume turned up enough, but I couldn't work out how to change this before I played the CD.

To make matters worse, my laptop is a piece of junk and played up a little. I had to remove the software and reload it again which made it difficult as the instructions don't deal with this.

The power side of things is a little confusing to me. I am having problems with the auto turn on. Every now and again I have to use the remote to turn the system on. Weird. Once again I am sure that when I get it tuned properly this problem can be sorted out.

Speaking of the remote, I am struggling to find a suitable place to mount it. At the moment I have it just sitting ion the centre console.

I have the 1.0.5 firmware and apart from the turn on problem it works fine. I would be a little scared as well to try and put the lasted firmware on. I don't want to trash the thing. I might wait to that done professionally as well.

All in all, I am quite happy with the Bit One. It has achieved what I wanted it to and with the idea that I can get it tuned properly in the not to distant future, I am licking my lips at the thought of even better sound.

[denali804]

Originally Posted by ticklenow1

Just for the record, I have just installed the Audison Bit One in my Mazda 6. I have had no problems with noise issues that some others have had. All I did was use audiophile grade interconnects (AudioQuest) and earth the Amp and Audison to the one spot.

It has definitely made a massive difference to the sound. The rear speakers in my 6 used to sound terrible (Hertz) but now they sound as they should. I am really looking forward to being able to get it tuned properly as I am sure that a good installer with a little experience with the Bit One could really improve upon my settings. I look forward to having the 4 presets so I can change the equalization with the different types of music that I listen to. I didn't really play with the settings too much as I had a few problems with the power supply side of things. One thing I had to do though was use the remote in terminal on the Bit One to get a remote out to turn my amp on and off (PDX4.100) otherwise I got a horrible popping sound when I turned it on.

On the down side, the test disc would not play that loud in my player. I think this is something that I did wrong as I didn't have the output volume turned up enough, but I couldn't work out how to change this before I played the CD.

To make matters worse, my laptop is a piece of junk and played up a little. I had to remove the software and reload it again which made it difficult as the instructions don't deal with this.

The power side of things is a little confusing to me. I am having problems with the auto turn on. Every now and again I have to use the remote to turn the system on. Weird. Once again I am sure that when I get it tuned properly this problem can be sorted out.

Speaking of the remote, I am struggling to find a suitable place to mount it. At the moment I have it just sitting ion the centre console.

I have the 1.0.5 firmware and apart from the turn on problem it works fine. I would be a little scared as well to try and put the lasted firmware on. I don't want to trash the thing. I might wait to that done professionally as well.

All in all, I am quite happy with the Bit One. It has achieved what I wanted it to and with the idea that I can get it tuned properly in the not to distant future, I am licking my lips at the thought of even better sound.

Are you using the bitone with hi level inputs or rca's. Also what exact connections have you made on the unit. The reason im asking is that audison folks told me that the unit only wants to see one method of turn on. For people using rca's you should just need a constant 12, ground, and remote in, possibly remote out to get rid of amp turn on/off pop. If using speaker(hi) level inputs it should voltage sense and turn the unit on. You really shouldn't have to hook up the extra terminals they have on the unit that are labled liked keyed and memory (i think. not looking at unit now)

[ARCuhTEK]

Originally Posted by denali804

Are you using the bitone with hi level inputs or rca's. Also what exact connections have you made on the unit. The reason im asking is that audison folks told me that the unit only wants to see one method of turn on. For people using rca's you should just need a constant 12, ground, and remote in, possibly remote out to get rid of amp turn on/off pop. If using speaker(hi) level inputs it should voltage sense and turn the unit on. You really shouldn't have to hook up the extra terminals they have on the unit that are labled liked keyed and memory (i think. not looking at unit now)

Are you saying that if I have a Bit One (can we just shorten this to B1?) that I should route my HU remote turn on power to the B1, then to the amps?

I will have only one set of L and R RCAs going to the B1. I have planned in my system, to run a remote turn on to a small power distribution block and then split off four wires, one to each of three amps and then one to the B1.

I can easily change that to route directly to the B1, then from the remote power output....go to a small distribution block, then split that three ways to each amp.

Seems you are saying that Audison has a preference?

[ARCuhTEK]

Originally Posted by ticklenow1

Just for the record, I have just installed the Audison Bit One in my Mazda 6. I have had no problems with noise issues that some others have had. All I did was use audiophile grade interconnects (AudioQuest) and earth the Amp and Audison to the one spot.

So are you saying that you have compared the difference between your system, with the exact set up, using AudioQuest (audiophile grade) RCAs and also a lesser quality, and that your components saw an improvement in sound with no other tweaks or adjustments that might have played a role in the improvement in the sound?

I have purchased Stinger RCA's but I cannot swear they are audiophile quality. I will have to go back and look at the model number and compare it to the other 1.4 million RCA cables on the market. The good news is that my longest run of RCAs is from the HU to the B1 (one pair). All the other RCA pairs will be about 3 feet long (total of 7 individual connects to three amps). Now I know that length of run does not always determine the quality of the signal so much as the construction of the wire, sheathing...etc. But it will make it easy to change them out should I feel the need to upgrade in the future.

[Coheednme13]

Originally Posted by ARCuhTEK

I have planned in my system, to run a remote turn on to a small power distribution block and then split off four wires, one to each of three amps and then one to the B1.

If you use your remote turn on and split it you could draw too much current from your headunit and you could damage it. You need to install a relay that will draw current from the batt and use your remote turn on to tell the relay to send the current and then run from the relay to a terminal strip and jumper down to each turn on wire you need. I was told this by a World Champion IASCA winner I have not done it but maybe some one has pics of the jumping terminal strip as I don't have one.

[bikinpunk]

The bit one has remote outs. Let that do the turning on of the amps. Use the headunit's remote on to switch on the bit one. Otherwise, you may find your headunit can't provide enough power to switch amps/bit one on. Regardless, the bit one was designed to switch the amps on.


As for 'audiophile grade' connections... well, I don't know if I have these. I had some nice folks here DIY me some RCAs and they seem to be just fine. When I switched the B1 in place of the h701 there was a world of difference in terms of sound quality and I had entered the same settings for the b1 as the h701; it was as much a straight swap as I could have gotten.

[ARCuhTEK]

Well letting the B1 handle the remote turn on certainly seems easier than a terminal strip, relay and jumpers. I reviewed the first post and photos and I see a remote in and out. But only one remote out. So is the standard practice for multiple amps to just plug multiple runs of wire (one from each amp) into this single remote out on the B1?

[ARCuhTEK]

I was just reading the Owners Manual and on page 6 and 7 it shows three remote "ins" and one remote "out". That is weird...why so many remote ins? I would have predicted more remote outs for multiple amplifer connections, than remote ins. How many remote ins does a piece of equipment need? I am guessing that this is for the multiple modes of turning the power to the B1 on.....it says

"4 • REMOTE IN-OUT
IN: for the processor remote turn-on through one or multiple signal sources, featuring Rem Out control.
OUT: output for the remote turn-on of the other devices/amplifiers connected to the processor."

Trying to think of what other devices one might need...ahh anyway....it does not apply to me best I can tell.

[bikinpunk]

Yea, it's odd to me, too.

Here's a closeup picture:
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...g?t=1233509514

I had mine setup like this:
1 wire to 12v Power/Ground (1 wire, each, obviously)
Wire to the "key switch on" (remote turn on wire from headunit)
1 wire from the 'remote out'. I daisy chained each amp off the other one's remote in. Basically, I made a string of remote turn on wires coming from the bit one, going through each amp.

[braves6117]

Originally Posted by ARCuhTEK

I was just reading the Owners Manual and on page 6 and 7 it shows three remote "ins" and one remote "out". That is weird...why so many remote ins? I would have predicted more remote outs for multiple amplifer connections, than remote ins. How many remote ins does a piece of equipment need? I am guessing that this is for the multiple modes of turning the power to the B1 on.....it says

"4 • REMOTE IN-OUT
IN: for the processor remote turn-on through one or multiple signal sources, featuring Rem Out control.
OUT: output for the remote turn-on of the other devices/amplifiers connected to the processor."

Trying to think of what other devices one might need...ahh anyway....it does not apply to me best I can tell.

Keep in mind that some amplifiers have their own remote out to attach another amplifier to.

[denali804]

Originally Posted by bikinpunk

Yea, it's odd to me, too.

Here's a closeup picture:
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...g?t=1233509514

I had mine setup like this:
1 wire to 12v Power/Ground (1 wire, each, obviously)
Wire to the "key switch on" (remote turn on wire from headunit)
1 wire from the 'remote out'. I daisy chained each amp off the other one's remote in. Basically, I made a string of remote turn on wires coming from the bit one, going through each amp.

Erin, Just curious, but why didn't you use the remote in on the bitone and then do the remote out to the amp. Just curious as to if their is any difference when using the key switch in terminal. Manual is not very clear in this area. I've found that alot of the european items that ive purchased electronic wise don't really hand feed us as far as details in the manual. I think we just love to have more information ;-) European car manuals are great though.

[bikinpunk]

I honestly don't even remember. I think it has something to do with the memory setting.

[denali804]

Originally Posted by ARCuhTEK

Are you saying that if I have a Bit One (can we just shorten this to B1?) that I should route my HU remote turn on power to the B1, then to the amps?

I will have only one set of L and R RCAs going to the B1. I have planned in my system, to run a remote turn on to a small power distribution block and then split off four wires, one to each of three amps and then one to the B1.

I can easily change that to route directly to the B1, then from the remote power output....go to a small distribution block, then split that three ways to each amp.

Seems you are saying that Audison has a preference?

Learned years ago in pro audio that amps turned on last and turned off first in audio chain eliminated un wanted thumps and pops. Don't load down the turn on lead from your head unit. Run it into the bitone and then use the bitone remote out wire to turn on your amps. This way you have no problems and shouldn't have any turnon/off issues. The manual says that maximum output on the remote out of the bitone is 12vdc/10ma. If for some reason you need more current than that for remote you will need to use a relay.

[bikinpunk]

the bit one has a built in relay (like the 701) so that the amps switch on last. I've always assumed this was to eliminate turn on/off thump.

[kyheng]

Originally Posted by Coheednme13

If you use your remote turn on and split it you could draw too much current from your headunit and you could damage it. You need to install a relay that will draw current from the batt and use your remote turn on to tell the relay to send the current and then run from the relay to a terminal strip and jumper down to each turn on wire you need. I was told this by a World Champion IASCA winner I have not done it but maybe some one has pics of the jumping terminal strip as I don't have one.

Nope, Hu's remote out is 12V@300mA(Pioneer). You can use it to power on your amps upto 3-4, more than that it won't damage the HU, only the remote in on amps cannot see 12V anymore and they refuse to turn on.
Unlike house power supply(AC), car is using battery(DC) which very much affected by current draw.

[ARCuhTEK]

I like the idea of going into the B1 with the HU remote wire, then using the B1 remote out. But since there is only one slot for B1 remote out...and I have to feed three amps, I could do the daisy chain as posted above, but is it a problem to run three separate wires (one from each amp) into this one slot on the B1?

[bikinpunk]

No. Voltage is shared. If you chain them or split them, it's the same.

[Technic]

Originally Posted by ARCuhTEK

Hey guys, I just found a good deal on an Audison Bit One $650!!! I had another source from the DIYMA website, but did some research and found someone closer to me.

So the dead is done, order went through and it should be into the suppliers store within one week!

WOOOHOOOOO

Could you PM me the information of your seller, please?

Thanks...

[monkeyboy]

Ordered mine yesterday. I should have it on Saturday.

[ticklenow1]

Originally Posted by denali804

Are you using the bitone with hi level inputs or rca's. Also what exact connections have you made on the unit. The reason im asking is that audison folks told me that the unit only wants to see one method of turn on. For people using rca's you should just need a constant 12, ground, and remote in, possibly remote out to get rid of amp turn on/off pop. If using speaker(hi) level inputs it should voltage sense and turn the unit on. You really shouldn't have to hook up the extra terminals they have on the unit that are labled liked keyed and memory (i think. not looking at unit now)

It is a little confusing. I have the high level speaker inputs, and to be honest, I haven't tried them on there own to see if they turn the thing on and off. I have the 12 Volt connected, obviously the earth, the remote wire and the remote out.

It is essential that people use the remote out to connect the amps up. I didn't at first and got a horrible pop!