Chris' Mazdaspeed6 Stereo install log

[chuyler1]

Well folks, its that time again. I've had the speed 6 for a few months and now its time to upgrade the stereo.

Equipment:
Head Unit: Stock Bose (has 2v pre-outs)
Processor: ppi DCX-730 (PEQ/3-way Xover/Time Alignment)
Amps: DLS A5 (85x2 + 300x1) and A8 (40x4)
Highs: LPG 25nfa 1" soft dome tweeters
Mids: Seas CA18RNX 6.5" paper cone woofers
Lows: DLS OA12 Infinite Baffle
RearFill: TBA or not at all

Step 1: Amp rack

The MS6 is advertised to not have folding rear seats. This is not true, the seats fold but there are support braces across the opening which prevent you from passing anything more than a pair of skis or a few 2x4s through it. However, there is an area that is just perfect for installing amps and you'll see over the next few weeks how I plan to use that space. Check out the stock trunk and what's behind the panel to get an idea of what I am working with.

I started by cutting a piece of MDF to replace the factory trunk panel. It is about 18" tall by 43" wide. I fitted this up to the opening and traced the area I had to work with. It comes out a 6-sided trapazoid-like opening. I squared it off and decided to add curved edges to my opening for the amps. They will have a recessed look with the help of fiberglass (similar to my last install).

Here I am determining a center point so I can use my router with a perfect circle jig to cut a channel in the wood.



Next I used a 1/2" straight channel bit on the router and with a combination of straight-edge and circle-jig cuts made a channel around the perimiter of where I needed to cut.



Here I am double checking the fit of my two amps side-by-side. They will fit nicely and there is plenty of room on the bottom for wiring (RCA ends stick out quite a bit...learned that the hard way last time).



With the channel complete, I used a jig saw to cut all the way through the wood. Then I used a round-over bit to smooth out the edges and provide a lip for stapling the fleece.



Next I created some 3.5" tall shims to raise the outer trim. Everything was screwed to a scrap board temporarily. These shims and bottom piece will not be part of the final rack.



Up next, I need to stretch and staple fleece to make up the side of this rack. Then comes fiberglass and bondo. After the first layer I will be able to remove the shims and bottom piece and fiberglass the back side for thickness.

Weather doesn't look promising for this weekend so it may be a few weeks before I get to fiberglass. (Don't have a garage so I have to work outdoors when it comes to fiberglass)

[Hellacool]

Since I just finished my Speed 6 install I see where you are going with this. I cant wait to see your progress.

[chuyler1]

I started before I saw your install...but yours was inspiration for me to get off my ass and make some progress. What you see here is about 4 hours of work. 1 hour for measuring and cutting the initial board, another hour to draw out all the cuts and start on a few, then 2 hours tonight finishing the cuts, routing the edges, and assembling the shims. It got late so I stopped before I drove my wife crazy with the staple gun.

[bassfromspace]

CRACK.

How is the MazdaSpeed Six in terms of adding an aftermarket HU? Any problems?

Thanks

[chuyler1]

Can't do it yet. Climate control is integrated into heads-up display and goes through stereo. Without the right kit the climate control won't work. Because the speed6 was manufactured in Japan (vs the regular 6 which is manufactured in North America) the current kit out for the Mazda6 won't work. But the Bose unit puts out a 2v flat signal. There is no sense in upgrading unless I was looking for a 24-bit DAC or something. It will be the weakest link in my system but I am ok for that. I'll let you know how it turns out though.

[shinjohn]

Nice!
Always love to see your work and install threads! Anxious to see the end result! Keep up the good work.

[Pseudonym]

would any of those units like the rockford 360 or anything like it make things better as far as voltage outs and SQ are concerned or are u stuck with a weak signal and marginal SQ?

[chuyler1]

2v output isn't a weak signal. Many aftermarket headunits only put out 2v. It's not a 24-bit DAC with 8v output but the stock unit in my car will hold up just fine. I have the ppi DCX-730 to handle processing (which is essentially the same as the RF 360) but it is not required since the output from the headunit is already flat. I plan to use it primarily for crossover and time alignment. Then I'll use the PEQ to tweak a few areas.

[durwood]

Nice! Looks better than my work, makes me feel like a hack. I'm jsut lazy when it comes to perfection. I eyeball everything, but it looks like you are taking the time to make it look extremely nice. You got lucky with those DLS amps. Looks like they fit perfectly without an inch to spare.

[durwood]

I found a good picture of my door handle. As i said in my PM's, when you go to do the deadening, be careful with this piece.

[fredridge]

looks awesome. Honestly, makes me think of having someone else do mine. I have no woodworking tools and not sure I would be that good with them if I did

[chuyler1]

I love working with wood. If I could find a way to make a living doing it I would. It is very satisfying when things come out right. But with that said, I have no formal experience. I had one "shop" class in 8th grade where I made a napkin holder. I picked up a few tips from a friend of a friend but the rest I have just learned on the internet.

[Hellacool]

Originally Posted by durwood

I found a good picture of my door handle. As i said in my PM's, when you go to do the deadening, be careful with this piece.

What is that? I dont remember that on my doors??

[Robert]

Great work can't wait to see the finished product.

[chuyler1]

Durwood and I were discussing removing the door skin in a PM and he sent me the photo of a piece he broke off by accident. I plan to remove the door skin so I can sound deaden the door.

My Raammat package came in today. I didn't even bother opening it though because it will be some time before I get to the deadening stage.

In other news, I have chosen a sub. I'm going to attempt to install a DLS OA12 under the rear deck. I measured 13" of space at the center so it will be tight but should work.

[chuyler1]

Step 1 Continued: Applying Fleece.

Its still drizzling outside but I tried out my new electric powered staple gun. Woah man it is so much better than my manual swingline...which contrary to Milton's experience jammed way too often.

First I layed fleece down on the bottom of my rack. I didn't get a shot but below the fleece is masking tape. As I mentioned before the bottom piece is only temporary until the glassing is done and I don't want to bind the fleece to the bottom piece.



Next I secured the amp mounting piece which was cut-out in previous steps. One note on this, I drilled the holes for securing this before detatching the center piece from the outer piece. This ensured that when I fastened it to the bottom piece it would be centered perfectly. Always plan ahead folks.



Next I stretched the fleece as tight as it would go and used my brandi new staple gun to secure it in place. The routed edge was perfect for lining up the staples. Make sure you keep the staples as close together as possible to prevent the fabric from slipping later on.



Once the stapling was done, I used a sharp razor blade to cut off the excess fabric. Hold it at an angle and use the routed edge underneath as a guide.



Here is how it looks with the excess fabric removed.



And a few test fits with the amps.

[khail19]

Coming together nicely!

[Mike Troll]

Looks good. This is even more inspiration for me to get off my ass and do some audio work to my 6s.

Are the amps going into the spare tire well?

[chuyler1]

No, the panel I am making will replace the stock panel shown at the back of the trunk in this photo

[FoxPro5]

You have skillz my man....

So this is yours and the wifey gets the Pro5? You kept your DLS babies though you selfish bastard!! Or no??

[chuyler1]

The wife wanted the spare tire and the hatch space back. I built her this as a compromise:



She also gets the DLS Iridium components for the time being.

[chuyler1]

Step 1 continued: Applying Fiberglass Resin

I had about an hour this evening after work so I applied two layers of fiberglass resin to the fleece. I masked off the screws (don't want resin to clog the tops) and masked off the edges to keep the excess resin to a minimum. I should have masked the entire center piece too because I dripped all over it. Oh well...that's what a sander is for. The first layer of resin I gobbed on and made sure it soaked in thoroughly. It took about 16 fl oz. When that cured and cooled down I brushed on another 4 fl oz to smooth out the surface and fill any crevaces. This is primarily so I have more of a base to sand later on before I reach the fleece. I let it cure while my wife and I watched a movie and then was able to remove my rack from the shims and base. Voila, a very light weight amp rack. Ok, Ok, no where near finished. I have to build up the back side for strength and sand/bondo/sand/prime/paint the front. Stay tuned for more updates.

After first layer of resin...



After second layer of resin, a smooth surface for sanding...



And after I pulled it from the shims and base...
(sorry it was dark out)

[GlasSman]

Lookin' good. Is there a pass through on the Mazda 6? Are you thinking spare tire well enclosure?

[khail19]

Originally Posted by GlasSman

Lookin' good. Is there a pass through on the Mazda 6? Are you thinking spare tire well enclosure?

Originally Posted by chuyler1

No, the panel I am making will replace the stock panel shown at the back of the trunk in this photo

[chuyler1]

Thanks khail!

For those not paying attention, this is what the pass-through on the MS6 looks like. There are two sets of cross bars. The ones in the corners get in the way and that was the reason for the shape of my amp rack.



Here is a test fit...



And what it looks like from behind...





To strenthen the walls, I soaked the back of the fleece with 8 fl oz of resin and then built it up with an additional 12 fl oz and fiberglass matte cut into squares.







And that's all for tonight. Next up, lots of sanding and bondo. But it may be a few days before the next update. Tomorrow night I'm installing springs with a friend and this weekend I'm heading to Limerock park with all the local Mazda Enthusiasts.