My 2008 F150 SuperCrew install

[ARCuhTEK]

386...OMG thats a LONG time ago. hey I used to ski in ML! Nice place!

[Hokieron]

Any additional progress to report? Sweet install

[amitaF]

Originally Posted by ARCuhTEK

You should kiss the ground that you DIDNT!! Architects are poor in the ways and means of most business aspects. Fortunately, I am far more ambitious than most.

Hey Stinky....will you be in NC on 5/29-5/30? If so there is a local meet near Charlotte.

^^^lolol....

i was lookin forward to being there and finally meeting the n.c. chapter of diyma'ers...but i was pulled off that job to go to l-a and then on to hawaii[sux 2 be me]....but the brighter side of the story is that i will be heading home for a week off to work on my build!!!! finally.
my acoustic elegance subs were shipped 2 days ago , so they will be waiting for their new home ,when i get back. i hope you guys post pics of the meet .

[ARCuhTEK]

Everybody DANCE now....da da da da na na naaaaaaaaa na!

My Bit One (third unit) has arrived....has been installed and is abSOOOlutely PERFECT!!

THE BUILD GOES ON!!!!

I will update the thread more as I start back with the doors and baffles.

[amitaF]

Originally Posted by ARCuhTEK

Everybody DANCE now....da da da da na na naaaaaaaaa na!

My Bit One (third unit) has arrived....has been installed and is abSOOOlutely PERFECT!!

THE BUILD GOES ON!!!!

I will update the thread more as I start back with the doors and baffles.

great news!
anxious to read about your progress.

[Problemhouston]

Originally Posted by ARCuhTEK

Everybody DANCE now....da da da da na na naaaaaaaaa na!

My Bit One (third unit) has arrived....has been installed and is abSOOOlutely PERFECT!!

THE BUILD GOES ON!!!!

I will update the thread more as I start back with the doors and baffles.

Sweet!! How much work have you already done on your doors? I need to cover them in deadening materal and pick a midbass driver.

I finally got the rear seat out and am now missing a lot of skin off of my hands. All the metal is sharp back there.

[ARCuhTEK]

Originally Posted by Problemhouston

Sweet!! How much work have you already done on your doors? I need to cover them in deadening materal and pick a midbass driver.

I finally got the rear seat out and am now missing a lot of skin off of my hands. All the metal is sharp back there.

I have done zero work to the doors. Maybe this coming weekend.

[joey0521]

Kick A** install man. I was reading about it on F150Online and decided to come take a look on here. Keep up the good work.

Also, all together how much Damplifier do you think you will use? Im trying to get a guesstimate on how much I want to buy.

[ARCuhTEK]

I think I will sue the entire 80sf pack of Damplifer Pro and I am only covering 25% of the floor and zero of the roof and zero of the rear doors (for now).

Front doors begin tomorrow.

[ARCuhTEK]

Day 26

Number of days since last post, where actual work was performed on my truck: 67 days.

Number of pages posted on the thread about things other than forward progress on my build, SINCE the last time I worked on the truck: 8. I thought this was funny....15 page thread, of which 7-8 pages are just sitting around yappin waiting on the Bit One situation to be rectified.

FORWAAARD MARCH!!!

Day 27 hours: 8 (2 people times 4 hours)
Total build hours: 92

Total number of days which have passed since build started: 115

Work done today:
1. Apply three layers of Damplifer Pro Sound Mat to interior face (of the exterior sheet metal) of front doors.
2. Apply two layers of Damplifer Pro Sound Mat to interior face (of interior sheet metal) of front doors.
3. Create two midbass driver baffles as follows:

a. custom measure and cut two layers of 3/16" hardboard (also known as masonite) for EACH front door.
b. glue two layers together and let dry.
c. Apply fiberglass resin to new speaker baffle. Let cure (dry).
d. Install new baffle and driver.

4. I have now replaced the Focal K2P 6 1/2" with my Hybrid Audio Technologies Legatia L6's on ONE side only. I did this on purpose so that I could compare the two drivers head on under the same loading conditions. More about that below.

5. Custom cut one layer of 3/16" masonite and cover with resin. When dried, install it on the HUGE opening near the drivers side armrest.
6. Reconnect midbass and tweeters.
7. Reinstall door card and all components.
8. Result forced me to undergo another round of tweaking the system on the Bit One.1.

Surprises along the way:
1. Installing the sound mat on the interior face of the exterior sheet metal of the door was probably the most difficult sound mat install fo this entire build. While I was not cut at anytime, my forearms are scrapped to death. The sheet metal at the door, and all of its edges are SHARP!

2. The result of the sound mat in the door is UNBELIEVABLE. See below.

3. In general, the effort to do one door took 4 hours. Some of the eight hours spent were prepping for the drivers side door, which we did not even really begin. I assumed 3 hours per door, but was secretly hoping to do it in less.

Next Tasks:
1. Apply Damplifer Pro to drivers side door.
2. Re-wire remote amp turn-ons from Bit One.1. (wires currently too tight for my comfort).
3. Disconnet rear door speakers (currently faded to zero)
4. More tweak and tune on the Bit One.1. (RTA and scope)
5. Tint drivers and passenger door windows.
6. Refinish (apply new stain) to rhino lining at truck bed.
7. Enjoy the summer.

I have pictures, will post Monday.

[ARCuhTEK]

So I have to add a second post today. This is because I am totally floored by the result of applying sound deadening mat to just one front door. I can honestly say that anyone even remotely considering doing this aspect of a car audio installation would be a fool to NOT proceed with it.

I intentionally only completed one of the two front doors I intend to deaden. With the Bit One.1 signal processor, I was able to mute each speaker in my system, except the two midbass drivers. Furthermore, I was able to switch back and forth between the two midbass instantly and often to compare them (muting one while listening to the other) and finally I listened to them both simultaneously to compare their output.

The difference was unbelievable. First, the Legatia L6, sounded much better than the K2P but before you go dump your K2P's for L6's, I can say that I honestly felt it was because of the sound mat and not just because of the speaker design. The L6's had MUCH better response, sounded tighter with more clarity and were apparently more efficient (for lack of better words). I was able to adjust the output setting on the L6 (via the Bit One.1) such that the output level was almost 100% with no apparent clipping or distortion. I was just about to head to the amp to bump up the gain, when, after a few songs I did notice some distortion in the L6. So I pulled the output level back down a little and she fell right into place.

Also of interest, was the fact that the drivers door, with no sound mat, was clearly vibrating and resonating LOUDLY at the same output level setting at the L6. Since that driver is still mounted to the OEM location (door card), and the output levels have been increased (effectively), the resonance of the door is painfully obvious.

No doubt, the new baffle used to mount the L6 is coming into play here too.

I have a whole new excitement level about getting the drivers side door completed and sorting out the Bit One.1 and getting this system dialed in just right. While it is not a competition level system, it makes me smile from ear to ear.

[amitaF]

Originally Posted by ARCuhTEK

So I have to add a second post today. This is because I am totally floored by the result of applying sound deadening mat to just one front door. I can honestly say that anyone even remotely considering doing this aspect of a car audio installation would be a fool to NOT proceed with it.

I intentionally only completed one of the two front doors I intend to deaden. With the Bit One.1 signal processor, I was able to mute each speaker in my system, except the two midbass drivers. Furthermore, I was able to switch back and forth between the two midbass instantly and often to compare them (muting one while listening to the other) and finally I listened to them both simultaneously to compare their output.

The difference was unbelievable. First, the Legatia L6, sounded much better than the K2P but before you go dump your K2P's for L6's, I can say that I honestly felt it was because of the sound mat and not just because of the speaker design. The L6's had MUCH better response, sounded tighter with more clarity and were apparently more efficient (for lack of better words). I was able to adjust the output setting on the L6 (via the Bit One.1) such that the output level was almost 100% with no apparent clipping or distortion. I was just about to head to the amp to bump up the gain, when, after a few songs I did notice some distortion in the L6. So I pulled the output level back down a little and she fell right into place.

Also of interest, was the fact that the drivers door, with no sound mat, was clearly vibrating and resonating LOUDLY at the same output level setting at the L6. Since that driver is still mounted to the OEM location (door card), and the output levels have been increased (effectively), the resonance of the door is painfully obvious.

No doubt, the new baffle used to mount the L6 is coming into play here too.

I have a whole new excitement level about getting the drivers side door completed and sorting out the Bit One.1 and getting this system dialed in just right. While it is not a competition level system, it makes me smile from ear to ear.

imo the fact that you plugged up the large opening in the door,also had something to do with your results....any pics???

[ARCuhTEK]

Originally Posted by stinky06

imo the fact that you plugged up the large opening in the door,also had something to do with your results....any pics???

Absolutely no doubt about it. I failed to mention that as well. Yes I have pics but as usual the cable I need to download pics off the camera is at work. I will load them on Monday.

[Hokieron]

ARCuhTEK,

Would you happen to know the dimensions on the large hole you covered in the door? I am thinking about using Lexan for this but I would like to know what size it is before I decide. Thanks for any assistance and nice install and I appreciate all of the detail you have provided in the log.

[ARCuhTEK]

Originally Posted by Hokieron

ARCuhTEK,

Would you happen to know the dimensions on the large hole you covered in the door? I am thinking about using Lexan for this but I would like to know what size it is before I decide. Thanks for any assistance and nice install and I appreciate all of the detail you have provided in the log.

Even though I have the second piece ready to install, I do not have it at my house, so I cannot say for sure (today). If you want exact dimensions, I can give them to you tomorrow (when I do the drivers door).

If you want a ballpark guess, I think a 24"x24" piece of lexan would cover one hole. Hmmm....as I go over it in my mind, it may be slightly larger than 24" . Let me see if I can get that dimension for you. I would hate for you to order a piece that is too small on my account.

[Hokieron]

Originally Posted by ARCuhTEK

Even though I have the second piece ready to install, I do not have it at my house, so I cannot say for sure (today). If you want exact dimensions, I can give them to you tomorrow (when I do the drivers door).

If you want a ballpark guess, I think a 24"x24" piece of lexan would cover one hole. Hmmm....as I go over it in my mind, it may be slightly larger than 24" . Let me see if I can get that dimension for you. I would hate for you to order a piece that is too small on my account.

Thanks and I can wait to get the dimensions. I am still in the gathering materials stage so that is no problem. One other quick question, how did you run your RCA's? I was planning to run mine down the center hump to the back wall and was trying to figure out how long to order them.

When you deaden the other door, are you going to compare the speakers again to give it a fair comparison? Just curious.

[ARCuhTEK]

Originally Posted by Hokieron

Thanks and I can wait to get the dimensions. I am still in the gathering materials stage so that is no problem. One other quick question, how did you run your RCA's? I was planning to run mine down the center hump to the back wall and was trying to figure out how long to order them.

When you deaden the other door, are you going to compare the speakers again to give it a fair comparison? Just curious.

I ran only one pair of RCAs from the HU down the center hump to the back wall. My pair were 12 feet long. If you look at my pics, I am going to a signal processor located under the rear seat. So I go to the wall, then do a u turn and head back toward the front for about 18 inches. The 12 feet ended up being just right, if not ever so slightly too short. Meaning....if it were any shorter it would not work. But it does. Just consider that and where exactly you will be taking the RCAs. If you are going down the center and then up the wall (and taking some in direct path along the wall) to the amp, then 12 feet will be too short.

I wish I could compare the K2P to the L6 and I suppose I could. But the fact of the matter is the L6's are significantly bigger than the K2P's in mounting diameter. I have already cut my baffles for the L6, so once the door card is removed...the K2P's are going to their new owner, my best friend, who has earned the right to own them for helping me so much.

So no, there will be no side by side comparision of the K2P and L6 both in sealer, matted doors. Had I known the difference it woudl really make, I would have made a second set of baffles for the K2P's JUSTTTTTTTTT in case they sounded better than the L6's But, you have to know me...once I commit, I commit. I committed to allowing him to have the K2P's for helping me (Actually I have given him an entire audio system minus the HU).

Speaking of that I think I will list his system (all of which I have purchased and given to him):

HU (OEM so far)
HAT L1v2 tweeters
Focal K2P 165w mid bass
Rockford fosgate 25 to Life LE Punch 1000 5 (or is it 6) channel amp.
Zapco DSP 6 signal processor
ZAPCO DRC SL single DIN remote control for DSP 6
All symbilink transmitters and cables.
All 1/0 ga. power and ground wire
All 4 ga power and ground wire
All RCAs (not needed now that we went with symbilink)
All 14 ga. speaker wires.
all distro blocks and fuse holders.
wire terminal connectors for the Big 3/4.
Tech flex.
Q logic subwoofer enclosure (actually he paid me for this)
choice of two subs: IDQ10v2 or Sound Splinter DVC RLi-10

He chose the IDQ (he thinks there is a problem with the SS, so we will test it tomorrow).


Wow.....he f******g made out like a bandit!!!

There is more to the story. He has helped me tons over the years and he loves car audio. He is also unemployed. So I WANTED to do something nice for him. He has worked with me patiently since the beginning of this build, and I have used his tools tons and his garage. His wife has fed me dinner so many times it is not even funny. I am cutting into his family time and yet he is just as nice as can be and helps out at the drop of a hat. I have been occupying his time is seems almost nightly.

It is the least I could do.

Since my system should be done by May 23rd, I cannot wait to help him with the above set up. Yep...its all still in the boxes.

[amitaF]

true freindship is priceless

[Hokieron]

Excellent point of reference. It was just the information I was looking for, thanks.

Did you have 2 of the Q Logic boxes or did you decide to go another route for your sub?

I think what you have done for your friend is very nice and I am certain it was greatly appreciated by him considering his situation at the moment. I know that both of you have learned a tremendous amount during this install as have I just watching it unfold here. Keep us updated...

[ARCuhTEK]

Originally Posted by Hokieron

Excellent point of reference. It was just the information I was looking for, thanks.

Did you have 2 of the Q Logic boxes or did you decide to go another route for your sub?

I think what you have done for your friend is very nice and I am certain it was greatly appreciated by him considering his situation at the moment. I know that both of you have learned a tremendous amount during this install as have I just watching it unfold here. Keep us updated...

At one point I had three Q Logic boxes. One I gave to him, one I used and one I sold. I have never had any plans for two subs given the lack of room in the F150. I know some have done two 12's with a seat lift, but I have to say that my one 10 with 500w is hella plenty for me.

[pylda]

Just a note...I added a layer of ensolite over the raamat on the rear wall and it made a huge difference. I am going to add that to the doors as well. It will basically be the same cut out as the plastic barrier that we have to take out of our F150 doors.

[ARCuhTEK]

Originally Posted by pylda

Just a note...I added a layer of ensolite over the raamat on the rear wall and it made a huge difference. I am going to add that to the doors as well. It will basically be the same cut out as the plastic barrier that we have to take out of our F150 doors.

Thanks for letting me know. After the layers of damplifier pro, the door cards barely fit back on the door. I have no room for another layer of anything. Was it expensive?

[pylda]

RAAMaudio - Quality and Value in Automotive Sound Deadening

Not too bad at all if you ask me. I bought several yards. It will go inside the doors next. On the back wall worked nice. I didnt even plug the vents.

[mSaLL150]

Originally Posted by ARCuhTEK

Thanks for letting me know. After the layers of damplifier pro, the door cards barely fit back on the door. I have no room for another layer of anything. Was it expensive?

Mine barely go back on with a few layers of deadener as well, so I couldn't add any foam to the outer skin. I added luxury liner pro to the inner door skin and mounted deflex pads to it behind the mids. That made a good difference.

[ARCuhTEK]

Originally Posted by mSaLL150

Mine barely go back on with a few layers of deadener as well, so I couldn't add any foam to the outer skin. I added luxury liner pro to the inner door skin and mounted deflex pads to it behind the mids. That made a good difference.

OHHHHHHH man you just reminded me of something. I have 10 sf of LL Pro. I FORGOT to add it to the interior of the door skin!!

Do you think you need both the LL Pro and a deflex pad? I looked into that a little and decided that both were not necessary. If you can tell me why both are needed, I will certainly reconsider. Sometimes all the properties of sound transmission and absorption/reflection can be confusing. So applying the appropriate remedies, where necessary can also be confusing.

I am doing the drivers door today. So I should install the LL Pro and consider the difference before I go cutting into the sound mat of the passenger door (to add the LL Pro).

Thanks!