Works for me...but yes, 4x1/0ga in, 4x1/0ga out, anl fuses.
Picture works here now..
I am not trying to be a pessimist, but how many customers have an actual need for 4 x 0 AWG fused outputs??
Most amplifiers will not take a 0 AWG, and only very very very few will have 4 amps with that sort of cable capacity. Especially since the wiring from the distribution block to the amps:
1. Can be kept a lot shorter than the wire from the battery to the distribution block
2. Carry less current
3. Therefore can also be made in a smaller gauge.
Looking at my own amps, which I do not see as being puny:
Amp 1: Celestra DA2k - 50mm2 (1AWG)
Amp 2: Phoenix Gold Xenon 200.4 - 4AWG
Amp 3: Helix Competition A4 - 4AWG
DSP: JBL MS-8 - Max 12AWG
A lot of installs feature:
1. Large supply wire from the battery
2. Fused distribution block
3. Smaller wires from distribution block to amps/dsp
It is just that I have a hard time seeing your new distribution block as being a good choice, for anything but the really hardcore 0.1% installs...??
Perhaps I could use it myself, but then it would be for connecting my 1AWG battery feed to two caps, before the feed continues to another distribution block for the amplifier/dsp. This would not make much sense though, since every extra connection in the path leads to quite significant losses when drawing +100A.
All in all, I am puzzled..
What I would love to see is a distribution block with:
Inputs:
2 or 3 (1/0 AWG)
At least 5 fused outputs:
1 x 1 AWG
2 x 4 AWG
2 x 8 AWG
Plus a "DSP" output (12-14 AWG)
Now this was a long ramble, for writing my 2 cents.
Car Audio: Car: VW Transporter T5, Tweeters: SEAS PT27F, Upper mids: Scan-Speak 12M Rev., Lower mids: 4 x 5.25" Peerless HDS, Subs: 3 x 12" Peerless XLS, Amps: PG Xenon 200.4, Celestra DA2K, Helix A4 Competition, Head: Alpine CDA-9855R, DSP: JBL MS-8, Interconnects: Cardas G Master Ref.
I am not trying to be a pessimist, but how many customers have an actual need for 4 x 0 AWG fused outputs??
Most amplifiers will not take a 0 AWG, and only very very very few will have 4 amps with that sort of cable capacity. Especially since the wiring from the distribution block to the amps:
1. Can be kept a lot shorter than the wire from the battery to the distribution block
2. Carry less current
3. Therefore can also be made in a smaller gauge.
Looking at my own amps, which I do not see as being puny:
Amp 1: Celestra DA2k - 50mm2 (1AWG)
Amp 2: Phoenix Gold Xenon 200.4 - 4AWG
Amp 3: Helix Competition A4 - 4AWG
DSP: JBL MS-8 - Max 12AWG
A lot of installs feature:
1. Large supply wire from the battery
2. Fused distribution block
3. Smaller wires from distribution block to amps/dsp
It is just that I have a hard time seeing your new distribution block as being a good choice, for anything but the really hardcore 0.1% installs...??
Perhaps I could use it myself, but then it would be for connecting my 1AWG battery feed to two caps, before the feed continues to another distribution block for the amplifier/dsp. This would not make much sense though, since every extra connection in the path leads to quite significant losses when drawing +100A.
All in all, I am puzzled..
What I would love to see is a distribution block with:
Inputs:
2 or 3 (1/0 AWG)
At least 5 fused outputs:
1 x 1 AWG
2 x 4 AWG
2 x 8 AWG
Plus a "DSP" output (12-14 AWG)
Now this was a long ramble, for writing my 2 cents.
The use of Down Gauge Studs is a no brainer for this application. Perhaps DIYMA Grand Master may invest or seriously consider designing a few for future reference.
Internals looks like aluminum not plated brassWhat is it?
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BRUTE FORCE - IF IT DOESN'T WORK, YOU'RE JUST NOT USING ENOUGH !
In that case fuck all you shit talking pussy motherfuckers suck my cock you stupid fucking cunt bags.
The use of Down Gauge Studs is a no brainer for this application. Perhaps DIYMA Grand Master may invest or seriously consider designing a few for future reference.
Yes, well.. I have never been a big fan of the "down gauge studs", especially not for large conversions (i.e. 0 AWG -> 4 AWG).
My preferance would be a distro block that would take large ring terminals for both input and output, instead of the "screw into bare wire" method.
Car Audio: Car: VW Transporter T5, Tweeters: SEAS PT27F, Upper mids: Scan-Speak 12M Rev., Lower mids: 4 x 5.25" Peerless HDS, Subs: 3 x 12" Peerless XLS, Amps: PG Xenon 200.4, Celestra DA2K, Helix A4 Competition, Head: Alpine CDA-9855R, DSP: JBL MS-8, Interconnects: Cardas G Master Ref.
I am not trying to be a pessimist, but how many customers have an actual need for 4 x 0 AWG fused outputs??
Most amplifiers will not take a 0 AWG, and only very very very few will have 4 amps with that sort of cable capacity. Especially since the wiring from the distribution block to the amps:
1. Can be kept a lot shorter than the wire from the battery to the distribution block
2. Carry less current
3. Therefore can also be made in a smaller gauge.
Looking at my own amps, which I do not see as being puny:
Amp 1: Celestra DA2k - 50mm2 (1AWG)
Amp 2: Phoenix Gold Xenon 200.4 - 4AWG
Amp 3: Helix Competition A4 - 4AWG
DSP: JBL MS-8 - Max 12AWG
A lot of installs feature:
1. Large supply wire from the battery
2. Fused distribution block
3. Smaller wires from distribution block to amps/dsp
It is just that I have a hard time seeing your new distribution block as being a good choice, for anything but the really hardcore 0.1% installs...??
Perhaps I could use it myself, but then it would be for connecting my 1AWG battery feed to two caps, before the feed continues to another distribution block for the amplifier/dsp. This would not make much sense though, since every extra connection in the path leads to quite significant losses when drawing +100A.
All in all, I am puzzled..
What I would love to see is a distribution block with:
Inputs:
2 or 3 (1/0 AWG)
At least 5 fused outputs:
1 x 1 AWG
2 x 4 AWG
2 x 8 AWG
Plus a "DSP" output (12-14 AWG)
Now this was a long ramble, for writing my 2 cents.
You are correct...most people don't have a use for this size distro block. For the SPL guys, this thing is perfect and is not available anywhere else on the market. Also, we are working out the final details on making the distro blocks configurable...you choose the output sizes and can change them at any time...once I have a little better idea on how we're going to make it work on the ground blocks I'll post some more info, since we want them to match. Also, we are going to be making a smaller one with 3x1/0ga in.
You are correct...most people don't have a use for this size distro block. For the SPL guys, this thing is perfect and is not available anywhere else on the market. Also, we are working out the final details on making the distro blocks configurable...you choose the output sizes and can change them at any time...once I have a little better idea on how we're going to make it work on the ground blocks I'll post some more info, since we want them to match.
See, that sounds nice, and makes sense..
Making the positive distro blocks configurable is easy (on the fused outputs that is), but I can see the challenge in making the ground blocks configurable.
Such a thing would be perfect for my new install, but I guess I will have finished it before they become available
Car Audio: Car: VW Transporter T5, Tweeters: SEAS PT27F, Upper mids: Scan-Speak 12M Rev., Lower mids: 4 x 5.25" Peerless HDS, Subs: 3 x 12" Peerless XLS, Amps: PG Xenon 200.4, Celestra DA2K, Helix A4 Competition, Head: Alpine CDA-9855R, DSP: JBL MS-8, Interconnects: Cardas G Master Ref.
Making the positive distro blocks configurable is easy (on the fused outputs that is), but I can see the challenge in making the ground blocks configurable.
Such a thing would be perfect for my new install, but I guess I will have finished it before they become available
Just put it off...it's summer and it's too hot anyways lol.
Just put it off...it's summer and it's too hot anyways lol.
True, but.. I have done the doors, some of the wiring and made the subwoofer.. and right now, no speakers at all are connected.. So I need to do something to get a little music playing, and might as well do the right thing now that I am at it
Car Audio: Car: VW Transporter T5, Tweeters: SEAS PT27F, Upper mids: Scan-Speak 12M Rev., Lower mids: 4 x 5.25" Peerless HDS, Subs: 3 x 12" Peerless XLS, Amps: PG Xenon 200.4, Celestra DA2K, Helix A4 Competition, Head: Alpine CDA-9855R, DSP: JBL MS-8, Interconnects: Cardas G Master Ref.
Shooting for about 4-6 weeks...it'll depend on who we go with for the manufacturing of them and their lead time tbh. Getting quotes this week and hopefully starting them next week some time...working on a configurable ground block, too, in the mean time.
I hate to shit all over your parade -- although maybe you're looking for honest feedback -- but I don't like it. Two main problems.
1) I don't like that the blocks are not surrounded by an insulator. The acrylic isn't just to make it look good, it's to protect against shorts.
2) Allen set screws are the worst industry standard EVER. The spirit of this site has always been to throw the car audio industry norms out the window and do things against the grain. I had hoped that a DIYMA product would aim to do things better, rather than be conformists.
Quote:
Originally Posted by subwoofery
What I wanted to say is that amps ... sound the same.
Allens are fine as long as they are tempered. Are the allens tempered or hardened?
Almost all 18-8 stainless hardware, which is work hardened during the forming of the screw. The binding posts are aluminum, and the mounting screws for the blocks to the base are nylon, for obvious reasons.
The electrical contact of a ring terminal cold forged (or even soldered) to the cable and bolted to the distro block, is far superior to a bare cable end screwed down with a set screw. Especially as time goes and the bare copper wire gets corroded.
Car Audio: Car: VW Transporter T5, Tweeters: SEAS PT27F, Upper mids: Scan-Speak 12M Rev., Lower mids: 4 x 5.25" Peerless HDS, Subs: 3 x 12" Peerless XLS, Amps: PG Xenon 200.4, Celestra DA2K, Helix A4 Competition, Head: Alpine CDA-9855R, DSP: JBL MS-8, Interconnects: Cardas G Master Ref.
The electrical contact of a ring terminal cold forged (or even soldered) to the cable and bolted to the distro block, is far superior to a bare cable end screwed down with a set screw. Especially as time goes and the bare copper wire gets corroded.
There is no bare copper to be corroded in our products, nor will there ever be. Also, most people do not have the ability to properly crimp large gauge ring terminals, so for the majority of the market, set screw designs are a better option.
A ring terminal style block can be made with a drill press, couple drills and taps, and a belt sander and a block of aluminum...if someone wants buss-bar style blocks, they're quite easy to make in a garage with just a little bit of time. A set screw style block on the other hand, is not so easy unless you happen to have a mill in your garage.
Because of these reasons, we chose to go with the set screw design.
And on another note...you can just make a row of those inline fuse holders for your "fuse block"...they can be found on ebay for far cheaper than the one you linked to.
There is no bare copper to be corroded in our products, nor will there ever be.
How are you going to accomplish that? I have never seen a "set screw type distro block" that does not have corrosion of bare copper as time goes by. If the distro block is just a hole for the bare wire with a set screw, there is no way the block will keep the bare copper from corroding. A simple set screw can not put enough force on every copper strand to ensure an air-free contact patch.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MasterMod
And on another note...you can just make a row of those inline fuse holders for your "fuse block"...they can be found on ebay for far cheaper than the one you linked to.
This I like. I have searched on ebay, but I lack the correct english search terms so I come up with nothing If I may ask I would like to know what to search for?
Car Audio: Car: VW Transporter T5, Tweeters: SEAS PT27F, Upper mids: Scan-Speak 12M Rev., Lower mids: 4 x 5.25" Peerless HDS, Subs: 3 x 12" Peerless XLS, Amps: PG Xenon 200.4, Celestra DA2K, Helix A4 Competition, Head: Alpine CDA-9855R, DSP: JBL MS-8, Interconnects: Cardas G Master Ref.
How are you going to accomplish that? I have never seen a "set screw type distro block" that does not have corrosion of bare copper as time goes by. If the distro block is just a hole for the bare wire with a set screw, there is no way the block will keep the bare copper from corroding. A simple set screw can not put enough force on every copper strand to ensure an air-free contact patch.
Tinned wire
This I like. I have searched on ebay, but I lack the correct english search terms so I come up with nothing If I may ask I would like to know what to search for?
(DIYMA.com)
0 AWG Distro Fuse Block 0 in 0 out x 4
If I may ask I would like to know what to search for?
Linear Mode
