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#1 |
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I got my sub enclosure made and im waiting on the amp and subs to arrive thanks to everyone here for their help on this problem.
Im thinking that my factory nav head unit is not sending the cadence (soon to be 2 cadence amps) amp the flat clean juice it needs. Im currently running the 4ch head unit speaker leads to an audiocontrol LC6I to drop them to ~7v out to the amp. It can sound GREAT on some music at some volume levels and muddy as hell on the next song. So i have been researching for about 3 days The jl Audio Cleansweep will automatically "listen" to my system playing pink noise and flatten out the signal. Its easy to setup and not many reported problems. However thats about all it does, no adjustment no customization. The rockford fosgate 3.Sixty.2 will do the same thing and afterwards give you all kinds of options (interface is via a palm or windows mobile bluetooth device) Its the only one that has time alignment to help restore sound stage. And with me using front and back doors and subs that might be nice. The 3.Sixty also has eq adjustments and crossover adjustments. The problem with the 3.Sixty is there are ALOT of people complaining about problems with .... Bluetooth, RF noise, reliability problems (flashing red light, return to service, repeat) and its max output voltage to the amp is 5v. Finally there is the Audio Control DQL-8 This damn thing with the optional dash remote control will let you adjust the air in your tires. It has parametric eq, crossovers, 6 spk lvl inputs, 1 aux input, 6 outputs, 1/3 octave eq, remote sub volume control,8 Nonvolatile memory presets that can save settings for all of the above, the list goes on. The problem is NOTHING is automatic. They strongly urge you (i sent them an email and they said yea if you want it to sound good you need to use one) use a RTA sound analyzer to first flatten out the factory sound then to help adjust the million different eq and x-over settings. I found RTA software 1/3 octave with an oscope feature for my laptop and the cost for the software and calibrated mic hardware is only about $250.00 so thats no bid deal. The big problem is im a fracking noob and it really sounds like i would be getting in over my head tuning the DQL-8. Another cool thing about the DQL-8 is it would replace my LC6I line output converter so i would only have one box between my HU and Amp. It also has adjustable Input and Output level controls on All 8 inputs and 6 outputs and up to 9v output to my amp so i could keep my gains way down. Sorry for the Real long post... So what should i do? Help the noob, Help the noob. Thanks Lee System Specs Dodge MyGig "RER" Navigation/DVD/Bluetooth/30Gb HD Head Unit Lockpick v2 for Navigation/DVD System Boyo VTL200 Backup Camera CDT HD62 6.5" Component CDT CL69CX 6X9 Component AudioControl LC6I 6ch Line Output Converter Cadence ZRS-9004 4ch AB amplifier 90w x 4 into 4 Ohm's About to Add... On Order Cadence IA7 Mono Amp 2 CDT QES-820 8" Subwoofers Fused 4ga power distributon box Photos of some of my work http://www.cngmail.com/ampinstall.html http://www.cngmail.com/stereoinstall.html |
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2009 Dodge Ram 1500 4X4 Crew Cab
5.7 Hemi 390HP Lee |
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#2 |
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the audiocontrol doesnt have t/a. their bad!
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#3 |
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ok then, i must say car oem dsp selection SUCKS BIG oops sorry minor rant.
anyway ok The Audigy Bit One .... Where on earth can one be purchased, i can find next to nothing on the internet about it?.. how much does it cost? and the most important questions can i use the rca out of my LC6I to feed it and can i KEEP my factory HU volume controls??? Thanks Lee |
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2009 Dodge Ram 1500 4X4 Crew Cab
5.7 Hemi 390HP Lee |
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#4 |
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You could get over a grand for your factory nav unit on eBay, and start with an aftermarket unit that does everything you need for less.
Dodge MyGig RER Navigation, great deals on eBay Motors, Electronics on eBay! |
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#5 | |
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Quote:
.anyway im open to suggestions as long as everything will work. here is a photo of the secondary display. Thanks Lee
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2009 Dodge Ram 1500 4X4 Crew Cab
5.7 Hemi 390HP Lee |
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#6 | |
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Quote:
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#7 |
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A friend of mine performed a lot of research on this a few months back and he narrowed it down between the JL Audio Cleansweep and the Audio Control DQL. He hasn't decided on anything yet though because he is already in the process of buying another vehicle.
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It is a simple case of mind over matter. I don't mind because YOU don't matter!
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#8 |
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From my talks with some JL installers, the one thing they dislike most about the Cleansweep is that you need to use their volume knob, not anything on the factory head unit.
dont know how true it is, but it steered me away quickly. The 360.2 would be my choice of what you have listed. |
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#9 |
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DIYMA Enthusiast
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Pasadena, CA
Posts: 1,616
12V Company:
Harman International Position:
Product Manager iTrader: (0) |
You don't HAVE to use the separate volume control on ANY of these devices, no matter what the manuals say. If the factory unit has volume dependent EQ, it'll change the frequency response, but usually, that's not a big deal. Usually the volume control boosts the bass and the treble a bit at low volume and reduces the bass a bit at high volume.
Get one that does UN-EQ (clean sweep or 360 or PXE-H650), set the volume control to the level where you'll usually listen to the system and run the Un-EQ routine. If the car has speed sensitive EQ (many do) that's designed to overcome road noise and guess what? It'll HELP your aftermarket system, not hinder it. |
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Global Product Line Manager, JBL Car Audio
Harman Consumer |
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#10 |
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dont let the fear of learning to tune with an RTA.
its worth it and it will make you understand how your system works extremely well. get the AC |
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#11 |
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I'm going to go with the DQL-8, but man do I wish the RF 3.sixty didn't suffer from reliability problems because I love the features and price. BTW, do we know if this is true... or just urban legend?
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#12 |
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Try the search bar. There are many write-ups on this forum. But from what I hear the drop issues are fixed.
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