Got a couple questions on these...and I'm also throwing it out there that I'm not going all-out with this car...bare minimum Looking to possibly pick these up while cheap, then potentially invest in more later on. Got a stupid 12x8" hole in each door for the window motor that needs to get dealt with, as well :surprised:
The top of my trunk lid rattles. Would these be good for cutting up and sticking inside the "braces" of the lid? Would the regular Damplifier be a better choice?
For the front doors...how about 1 tile behind the mid and one in the center of the outer panel...then 1 or 2 on the inside panel? Would that be enough?
Are these designed to stay in one piece, or can they be modded as necessary?
One final Q for now...are there any issues with low temps? With the wind chill factor, it can feel like it's -40 in the winter and the temp hits -5 to -10 regularly.
The top of my trunk lid rattles. Would these be good for cutting up and sticking inside the "braces" of the lid? Would the regular Damplifier be a better choice?
These will out perform regular Damplifier when the same square footage is used. The bracing in not as important to hit as the sheet metal is.
For the front doors...how about 1 tile behind the mid and one in the center of the outer panel...then 1 or 2 on the inside panel? Would that be enough?
If you are only interested in reducing harmonic distrotion in the sheet metal, a few tiles per door skin will be fine.
If you are looking to strengthen the sheet metal and give the speakers a more solid environment to perform in. you will need more are coverage thant the amount you listed for sure. I can't tell you how much coverage that is, so Just keep adding the mat until you get the results you want. This goes for all constraint layer damping products. Not just this one.
Are these designed to stay in one piece, or can they be modded as necessary?
I am not sure I understand this quesiton. Once applied though, they should not be removed.
One final Q for now...are there any issues with low temps? With the wind chill factor, it can feel like it's -40 in the winter and the temp hits -5 to -10 regularly.
How much coverage is recommended w/ these? Should I cover my whole door, trunk, etc., the same way I would do w/ Raammat or Damplifier? For maximum SPL, should I do multiple layers?
This is just an introductory price? What will be the production price? Also Are you planning to have any Second Skin dealers in Dallas/Fort Worth any time soon?
If every dB counts, any vibration damper is the wrong solution. Its primary function is to convert vibration to heat which reduces overall sound levels. The real problem for SPL competitors is energy wasted to panel flexing. CLDs may stiffen the panel, but there will always be an offsetting and undesirable reduction in resonance. That is what vibration dampers are designed to do. This is great if you are trying to reduce noise transmission or improve the vehicle's ability to reproduce music accurately, but if SPL is all you care about it's going to be 1 step forward and 2 steps backward. Whether or not you end up with a net gain is going to depend on that 1 step forward leaving you ahead of where you started.
The efficient solution is to eliminate the 2 steps backward. Using an extensional damper like a liquid will eliminate one of the backward steps because they are designed to convert vibrations to heat by resisting flexing. Still going to lose some desirable energy. The ideal solution for maximum SPL is to just stiffen the panels. Bonding metal or wood braces to the panel surface is going to yield the best results. Panel flex will be reduced and reinforcing resonance won't. Simple.
That's the solution for maximum SPL, but only a very small percentage are looking for that. Extrapolating a noise reduction or SQ solution from SPL maximizing techniques will take you in exactly the wrong direction.
The ideal solution for maximum SPL is to juststiffen the panels. Bonding metal or wood braces to the panel surface is going to yield the best results. Panel flex will be reduced and reinforcing resonance won't. Simple.
I've seen new seals around doors, windows, trunks and then people laying on top of the vehicle and pressing up against the sides of the vehicle during the BURP !!
Trying to prevent the vehicle from flexing outward !
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