How to set-up & improve on & any suggestions

[nvnighthawk]

Here is my gear but will be adding an alpine IVA-D900 or D300/310 DVD HU & either a PXA-510,600 or 700/1. I will still need a SUB.


My set-up for a 1987 IROC ($900 WORTH OVER 20 YEARS OF BUILDING)


Pioneer DEH-P7000BT In Dash CD/MP3 Player (MP3/WMA/AAC Support, CD Changer Controller, Sirius/XM Ready)

Description:
When you're not utilizing hands-free calling, the DEH-P7000BT can use Bluetooth Wireless Technology to feed your appetite for entertainment. Using "wireless audio" control and streaming (AVRCP, A2DP), you can control and listen to a compatible audio player or music phone on your headunit. Hear the detail, warmth and clarity, the way the artist intended it, from all of your highly compressed MP3, WMA and AAC files stored on USB memory device, ipod and portable digital players. By restoring data (especially higher frequencies) that tend to get lost in the digital compression process, Pioneer's Advanced Sound Retriever technology enhances audio reproduction nearly all the way up to 20 kHz frequencies. Pioneer's DEH-P7000BT is ready to roll with capability for direct connection to your iPod . USB 2.0's speed and capability allow an elevated iPod experience in the car, and nearly limitless expandability for portable media players and USB memory devices. File search and access are extra-quick. The headunit keeps song, artist, time and album information displays very clear and user-friendly, and control is intuitive through the 7-Way Rotary Commander. The system's wired USB connection provides direct digital signal transfer from the iPod for clean, clear sound. The DEH-P7000BT is smartly designed to expand your system, customize your experience, provide superior sound quality and easy operation.

Additional Features Telephone mute, flip-down console, CD Text capable, phone book, rotary encoder multi-control, title scroll, auto volume adjustment, TV tuner control, ID3 tags support, Bluetooth hands-free for cellular phone, DVD changer control, HD radio ready, iPod ready, Sirius satellite radio ready, XM satellite radio ready, Bluetooth audio streaming

Clock Yes (digital)
CD Changer Control Yes
Button Backlight Color Blue
Built-in Display OLED
Amplifier Output Details 22 Watt - 4 Ohm - 14.4V DC - 4 channel(s)
High Pass Frequencies 125 Hz, 63 Hz, 50 Hz, 80 Hz, 100 Hz
Low Pass Frequencies 125 Hz, 63 Hz, 50 Hz, 80 Hz, 100 Hz
Crossover 2-way active crossover
Continuous Power / Channel Qty 22 Watts x 4
Max Output Power / Channel Qty 50 Watts x 4
Controls Volume, volume subwoofer, fader, balance, loudness, attenuate
Equalizer Yes
Sound Output Mode Stereo
System Control Bus IP-Bus
Digital Player (Recorder)
Supported Digital Audio Standards WAV, WMA, AAC, MP3
Device Type Digital player
Features USB flash drive playback
General
Faceplate Type Detachable
Form Factor Full-DIN - in-dash unit
Product Type Radio / CD / MP3 player / digital player
Remote Control
Technology Infrared
Type Remote control
Radio
Additional Features Best stations memory, DX/LO switch
FM Preset Station Qty 18
AM Preset Station Qty 6 preset stations
Preset Station Qty 24 preset stations
Type Radio tuner - AM/FM
CD System
CD-RW Compatible Yes
CD-R Compatible Yes
Disc Title Memory Yes
Media Load Type Slot-load
Type CD / MP3 player
Supported Digital Audio Standards WAV, WMA, AAC, MP3
Equalizer
Equalizer User Preset Qty 1
Equalizer Factory Preset Qty 5
Equalizer Band Qty 3 bands
Equalizer Type Parametric
Connections
Connector Type 2 x audio line-out ( RCA phono x 2 ) ¦ 2 x subwoofer output ( RCA phono ) ¦ 1 x system components control bus ¦ 1 x USB ¦ Audio line-in
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ALPINE MRP-F300 4/3/2-channel amp for DASH & REAR POSTS

4-channel car amplifier with MOS-FET power supply
50 watts RMS x 4 channels at 4 ohms (75 watts RMS x 4 channels at 2 ohms)
150 watts RMS x 2 bridged output at 4 ohms
Selectable 2/3/4 channel output
Variable High/Low pass filters (50-400 Hz, 12 dB/octave)
Selectable bass boost
Preamp and level inputs
Gold plated connections



ROCKFORD fosgate PUNCH P200 for REAR HATCH

Number of Channels 2
Rated Power
continuous power 50W x 2 @ 4-Ohms RMS
100W x 2 @ 2-Ohms RMS
200W x 1 @ 4-Ohms bridged RMS
Total Power
total sum of 'rated power' 200 Watts
Dynamic Power
powercube measurement (info) 74 Watts x 2 @ 4-Ohms 0° Res
131 Watts x 2 @ 2-Ohms 0° Res
Bridgeable Yes
Efficiency (average) 68% @ 4-Ohm
62% @ 2-Ohm
Crossover Controls High-Pass (HP): 50Hz-500Hz 12dB/octave Butterworth
Low-Pass (LP): 50-500Hz 12dB/octave Butterworth
Tone Controls Punch EQ2 Bass: 0dB to +18dB @ 45Hz and/or
Punch EQ2 Treble: 0dB to +12dB @ 12kHz
Function depends upon LP/AP/HP switch position
Signal Input Low level: 1 RCA pair
Signal Output n/a
Power Input Connector Block
Power Wire Gauge 4 AWG
Speaker Output Connector Screw terminal barrier strip
Speaker Wire Gauge 8 AWG to 18 AWG
Heat Sink Type Cast aluminum
Cooling Convection
Remote Controls Optional PEQ Remote Punch EQ
(overrides built-in Punch EQ2)
Visual Indicators Power
Thermal
Protect
Circuit Topology Class Class A/B
Frequency Response 20Hz to 20kHz +/- 1.0dB
--------------------------------------------------------------------------

DASH SPEAKERS

Clarion SRC4696 4" x 6" 2-Way 150W Car Speakers

Frequency Response: 125-120,000 Hz
Recommended RMS Power: 30W
Peak Power Handling: 150W
Impedance: 4 ohms
4" Bidirectional woven glass-fiber woofer cone
Powerful strontium woofer magnet
Rolled-edge butyl rubber surround
3/4" pure silk dome tweeter
Dual neodymium tweeter magnets
Metallized tweeter diaphragm protector
Lead-free solder used in the tinsel leads is better for the environment
Extended frequency response to 120 kHz


REARPOSTS SPEAKERS

Alpine SPG-69C3 6" x 9" 350 Watts 3-Way Speakers

Tweeter Type: 11mm PI Dome Tweeter
Magnet Material: Neodymium Magnet
Midrange

Midrange Type: 25 mm Silk Soft Dome Midrange
Magnet Material: Neodymium Magnet

Woofer
Cone Material: Polypropylene Cone Pearl Mica Injection
Voice Coil Type: Square Voice Coil Wire
Magnet: Ferrite Magnet
Frame: Injection Mold Frame
Design: Ultra Long Excursion Design

Peak Power: 350 W
RMS Power: 90
Frequency Response: 65 Hz to 19 kHz
Impedance: 4 Ù
Sensitivity: 91dB / W (1m)



REAR HATCH (BOXED) facing forward

INFINITY KAPPA 692.7i 330W 6x9" 2-WAY

2-ohm impedance for extra power (compatible with all factory or aftermarket car stereos)
Plus One woven-glass-fiber woofer cone with hi-roll rubber surround
1" rotating UniPivot M.M.D. dome tweeter
computer-optimized outboard crossover with tweeter level control
power range: 2-110 watts RMS (330 watts peak power)
frequency response: 35-25,000 Hz
sensitivity: 95 dB

[Chrisjbell]

I don't know if I can be helpful or not, but I'm curious about what you're asking. I see the very detailed specs for all of your equipment, although I started skimming after about the first dozen lines. Your title covers enough territory that a couple of books could be written. Perhaps if you could narrow what you need down just a wee bit?

[nvnighthawk]

Sorry. I simply listed all info to seek help to set-up as is then when I get the newer gear what do I do to set-up once more. Paid for Pro install long ago & was stupid costly. that was the last time I'll do it.

As of now I have it sounding OK but I don't really know what I'm doing, trial & error is my guide. I am not up on the amp settings or HU band settings either. Also need to balance sound better or configure from scratch even.


Do I need a high power alternator to run everything for now & future and/or what gauge power wire from battery should I use.

Lastly I get engine noise whining that comes & goes.


Hopefully this explains my problem.

[n_olympios]

Ok, first things first. You do not need high power alternators or other batteries etc. What you do need to do (as I said in the other thread) is to get rid of at least one of the rear sets (preferably both) and invest in a small sub. You have the amplification, you have a sub output in the 7000BT, it's a shame not to use them properly. There is also no need for 2 rear sets. No car that sounds good has rear sets (apart from multimedia installs and a few ones with rear fill speakers, usually through a processor though). A good component set up front and a sub are more than enough for good sound.

The engine noise whining would normally be a bad earth or a ground loop, but what do you mean "it comes and goes"? You should see what the circumstances are when it does that, then it'll be easier to find out what's wrong.

[nvnighthawk]

Sounds like what I need to do with present gear.

When I do go multimedia (Alpine IVA-D310 or 900 whichever you think is best) what set-up then, I have 2 other cars I could re-vamp with the unused parts from the change-over. I am bidding on a alpine PXA-H510 right now.

What subs do you suggest and do they have to be boxed or can I hide or put in the trunk well?

Should rear speakers be in rear posts or further back if used? What model of component s up front should I use & where is best to install them?

Lastly how should I distribute the amps power (see list on previous post)?

[n_olympios]

Originally Posted by nvnighthawk

Sounds like what I need to do with present gear.

When I do go multimedia (Alpine IVA-D310 or 900 whichever you think is best) what set-up then, I have 2 other cars I could re-vamp with the unused parts from the change-over. I am bidding on a Alpine PXA-H510 right now.

What subs do you suggest and do they have to be boxed or can I hide or put in the trunk well?

Should rear speakers be in rear posts or further back if used? What model of component s up front should I use & where is best to install them?

Lastly how should I distribute the amps power (see list on previous post)?

Heh, lots of questions, I'll try to answer all of them.

1) Between the two, the D310 is the better option. The D900 may have better screen resolution but lacks a touch screen so there's no point really.
2) Don't get a PXA-H510. If you do get an Alpine processor, make sure it's an H700 or H701 (same thing), that will give you all the processing power you need.
3) I can't suggest any specific subs as I don't know your music tastes, the available space and your budget. You can build an enclosure for it in the trunk, or, if the car is a sedan, you could probably go IB as well (Infinite Baffle) with certain sub models.
4) If you do decide to keep rear speakers, make sure they don't share the same air space with the sub. If you have rear quarter locations, it's best to use those. If you have a parcel shelf that "sees" in the trunk space underneath and you want to keep those speakers, an easy solution is to isolate the underside of the speakers from the rest trunk space using margarine boxes or something similar.
5) Regarding amp power, that's easy. You bridge the most powerful amp you have and use it for the sub (in your case, probably the RF), then use the rest for the other speakers.

Hope that helps.

[nvnighthawk]

I sort of agree with the 310 cause of dvd-r & rw.

What about the Rockford Fosgate RFQ5000 for an DSP for movie surround? Alpine 700/1 with or without rux 701 controller?

As for subs I like rock, country & also the sub is for movies. $'s is not important size (to install in the well) & fit (look up 1982-1992 Camaro trunk pix).

Rear 1/4 panels have all kinds of room but have ported covers facing side to side not forward.

Hope this helps but ask more Q's if needed.

Thanx for your ideas sofar but I still do not know what to set amp bias or gain frequencies, etc or whatever that stuff is.

[n_olympios]

The D900 also plays DVD's.

Don't - I repeat - don't get the RF processor. Since you're set on getting an Alpine HU (and want movies reproduction?) you're definitely getting an H700/701.

Regarding the sub, since your amp power is quite limited (200Watts from the RF) you need something relatively small but also sensitive so as to play loud(ish). A small Helix sub comes into mind but let me check other options as well.

You don't need to worry about gains etc right now, first you have to get the equipment, install it, then you'll set it up (that's where gains and EQ and TA come into play).

The best advice I can give you at this point is this: since it's obvious you've got many things mixed up, take one step at a time. Understand why you need to, and then proceed to the next step.

[nvnighthawk]

Thanx for the patience. OK 700/1 it is. getting the hang of this 1 step at a time. the D900 does not play cd-r or cd-rw I believe. In the end the car is for movies then music. I realize the excess speakers are silly but will be moved to my INTREPID and at this time do not know what I want to do there yet.

Do I need the RUX-701 or not, does the HU do the same thing?

What do you think of this sub? !st of all it fits & 2nd I like the price.

http://cgi.ebay.com/BAZOOKA-BT8024DV...r-Passive-Tube

[n_olympios]

Please do not send me emails through the forum, I will reply in here when I can.

Ok, you asked me about the D106, it's pretty much the same, although there are some differences to the D310 (the latter being the better one, of course) but the D106 is a more recent unit.

The D900 plays the same media as all of the above.

You do know that it is illegal (not to mention dangerous) to watch movies whilst the car is moving, don't you?

If you get an Alpine multimedia HU (such as the ones above) you don't necessarily need the RUX as you can control the PXA-H701 through graphic menus. The control is different, but the result is the same.