DIYMA Car Audio Forum - Technical & Advanced Car Audio Discussion

What makes a good SQ sub amp?

nubz69 — Wed, 16 May 2012 18:54:18 GMT

I understand that low distortion, power and a decent dampening factor are the core of a good sub amp. Many amps performa well in all three areas and the playing field has leveled over the past few years. Are there other factors that have a large effect on the SQ you get from a decent sub amp. Back in the day there used to be a big deal made about slew rate of amplifiers. Are there any other big contributors to the SQ of a sub amp? From your experience have you found modern class D amplifiers to perform better then class AB?

To this day one of my favorite sub amps has been the JL 1000/1 for both SPL and SQ. I really have not found an amp that really performed a whole lot better for just about any amount of money. Is there something out there i am missing as I have heard hundreds of amps and nothing has really every wowed me in the sub amp SQ departement.

pioneer avh-p2300dvd no sound

teggy18 — Wed, 16 May 2012 18:02:20 GMT

I got myself the double din . (used)
and i installed it in myself in a 2001 Acura Integra, and it work great. My friend ended up flipping my car, the car was totaled and i took it out and put it in another 2000 Acura Integra (there is no visible damage on it) wired it up myself, it turns on but theres no sound . i hooked up a speaker directly to the wires coming out the Pioneer and still no sound. Could it be from the accident? and what can i do to fix it?

Midbass under seat w/JBL MS8

mitchyz250f — Wed, 16 May 2012 14:33:06 GMT

My friend just bought a Mazda Speed3 and is thinking about putting the midbasses under the front seats. Anyone have experience with this and can tell me how high a speaker can play under the seat, what it does to the stage...?

Mitch

What to Do Sybilink Cables/Zapco DC DPN software.

RobyG78 — Wed, 16 May 2012 09:45:07 GMT

Ok so I have 3 SLDIN-T.F, 1 SLDIN.18 2 DC 200.2, and a DC 500.1 amps. Right now I will be running an Active 2 way front stage with plans to maybe got to a 3way set up later. I would be adding a DC 350.2 later and maybe a DSP6-SLII later. If I plan for the amp not I am looking at over $200 in just sybilink cables and I really don't like all the connection splices and mismatching cables. My thoughts once taking measurements and finding someone that can make me a custom cable one input and 3 outputs and still have the same quality or better do to having soldered connections. Or even buy another 18' and a 12' cable and splice solder the connections heat shrink a tech flex it all and get the same result. I think I read some were about grounding the all the shielding to how would I do the with the 3way output?

My next question is about the Zapco DPN software. I have to disks and neither version sees my DC 500.1. I have not installed the Front Stage Amps yet since I am trying to decide what to do about the cabling. I can instal both versions fine on my laptop but the two are just not communicating. I have windows 7 64 on both my desktop and laptop. Am I looking at having to down grade to XP/Vista to tune and end up really buying a 5 year old laptop with XP/Vista just some I don't have to reformat my laptop every time I want to tune my amps/Buy a junk laptop just for this? Also could this just be an Issue with my computers being 64 bit vs the more common 32 for Vista and only 32 bit XP?

Thx Roby

Alpine PXA-H100 in a roadster

phantom_ — Wed, 16 May 2012 09:12:46 GMT

i have searched through the forum, however can not find any info about running a PXA-H100 DSP with a roadster car.

Car to be installed is a Honda S2000 with two seats; does IMPRINT Sound Manager simply work for a roadster?

there is no option for choosing a 4-seater/2-seater car in IMPRINT Sound Manager.

any ideas?

amp "pops" on power up

Random456 — Wed, 16 May 2012 02:44:55 GMT

Is this normal for some amps? It's a Diamond Audio D6 series. With all RCA inputs disconnected and gain set midway, powering the amp on using the remote in causes all channels to have an audible "click" or "pop." Is this normal and just a crappy soft turn-on feature? Or do I need to send it in? Thanks

Is it okay to mix ohm from a speaker and a tweeter? help guys!

Zuppy — Wed, 16 May 2012 00:26:30 GMT

sup all, well basically I have a pair of EV's and 2 tweeters I'm going to be putting in the car this weekend. Problem is that the evs are 8 ohm and the tweeters are 4 ohm. How would this work out? What will be the load output? Will it all blow up? (being sarcastic :P ) Anyways help me out guys, thanks!

Random static... no amplifier connected!!

Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX — Tue, 15 May 2012 22:01:44 GMT

Hi all,

So I've been battling various noise issues with my car... highly modified, most systems changed/tapped/modified by the PO and cleaned up by me.. mostly...

Today, I shipped my SoundStream Continuum out for repair, I was getting random static on the left channels and the sub channel sounded WAY off...

This afternoon, I take the car out for another test drive, just put a new clutch in, bunch of other things...

Then I hear it... the random static... no amp in the car, no possible signal to the speakers...

It's RANDOM though, not engine whine, not white noise, totally random on amplitude (though just noticable over the car itself), timing, and content...

It sounds almost as if a battery is being placed in the wires, that random scratchy sound you typically get...

If it where perodic or a "whine" I could wrap my head around this, if it where clicks or pops or something

Sounded JUST like this... this was with the RCAs on the amp unplugged, but system on otherwise...

I'm sooooo stumped, I just don't know what to do now...

Some advice regarding Ms-8

superskyliner — Tue, 15 May 2012 18:34:31 GMT

So I'm planning on a few upgrades for my 2012 jetta GLI with factory Fender audio. The stock system is components front and rear and a factory sub in the trunk all powered by a factory blaupunkt amp under the drivers seat, I feel the speakers sound great but I can't for the life of me get the thing to crank out any midbass , I figure it's all on how the engineers designed the system and the factory amp just doesn't feed the speakers a healthy dose of midrange ,

The question is should I use the ms-8 or a different processor and In what configuration , I am mainly looking to get full use of a multiband eq so I can emphasize the notes I'm lacking

By the way I have also installed a jl audio stealthbox with a W1v2 10" sub powered by a jl jx500 that I'm looking to incorporate in the set up

The dilemma.... I like the fact that the ms-8 has amplified outputs ready to connect speakers to but I'm concerned that the 18 or 15 what's per channel may not be enough...the factory system is rated at 400 w

Additionally there are no passive crossovers installed in the system after the factory amp, the factory amp handles all processing and eq/crossover points with separate individuall outputs to front tweet, front mid, rear mid, etc...all in all I think 9 output channels

Any help much appreciated

Various 10" in 1.1ft3

maxxx — Tue, 15 May 2012 04:44:25 GMT

I have an adire brahma 10" and I am very happy with its performance in my 1.1 cubic foot sealed enclosure. It goes deep and loud without complaining.
I have no experience with JL. Will I be happy with the 10w6v2 in the same sealed enclosure? I cannot fit the 10w7 due to mounting depth, and i think my sealed volume is too small for the w7 anyways.
Thoughts? Experience?
JL parameters available here:
http://www.jlaudio.com/10w6v2-d4-car...-drivers-92120

eastech monsoon drivers

murphman — Tue, 15 May 2012 04:05:52 GMT

have 4 of these- p/n FDW6065-311?

can anyone help with t/s params?

Attached Images

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Good lord how did i get suckered into this...lol

simplicityinsound — Tue, 15 May 2012 02:42:38 GMT

i usually never engage in debates but somehow i got suckered into this one...

all i did was post the signal graphs i took from this car's OEM amp output, to perhaps help anyone on that forum who wants to add an aftermarket system, what signals to sum, how the stock curve looks...

i get bashed over the head about oem signal processing, how its debatable whether or not aftermarket can improve upon it...and being accused of just wanting to make money...

read my first post and see if you can figure out how it became the debate that it was lolz....

its like we are arguing on totally different points...a surreal feeling really. :)

Lexicon OEM Signal Analysis - Hyundai Genesis Forum

:confused::mean:

300/4 parts

kspraker — Mon, 14 May 2012 20:12:18 GMT

Very new but I'm liking this forum. I've been DIY for 20 years with car audio and always been lucky that my dad is an old school audio repair man, until we ran into JL Audio's amp.

Is there anywhere someone can buy parts or does he have to go to the transistor level to fix my amp?

He described what he thinks is either a pre-stage for one channel or possibly a protection circuit that has a few bad tansistors on it.

His thought was maybe the board is replaceable - if not he can do the transistors if necessary but they are tiny surface mounts that are burnt.

When I call around locally I'm told all JL's have to go back to them for repair?

The board part number is EFB-076-81 - any help is appreciated. If it has to be the transistors - then we'll look them up, we do have three more boards just like it in the amp - but wanted to try it without having to unsolder those tiny little parts. Thanks gents.

buying used gear? need some advice before 430pm est

ferret111 — Mon, 14 May 2012 15:40:15 GMT

a seller is dropping by at 5 with a pair of supposedley bnib JL Audio w6's at a real good price

he says I can inspect them, anything i should be looking for to ensure they're not fakes? or any other advice please?

PIONEER HU SUB OUTS TO CM LINE DRIVER

Richv72 — Mon, 14 May 2012 05:47:06 GMT

I have a pioneer deh-80prs and it has 2 subwoofer outputs, I am going to connect it to a critical mass line driver but the line driver only has 1 sub input and 2 sub outputs, can i connect this or should I just skip the line driver?

Dodge/Chrysler aftermarket HU and back-up sensors

myhikingboots — Sun, 13 May 2012 23:21:45 GMT

Hey guys I just installed a new Pioneer DD Hu into a '09 Dodge Ram that has factory back-up sensors. With the OEM HU, when the backup sensors detected something the radio muted, but now wtih the new head unit it doesn't. There is a mute wire coming from the pioneer deck but not one from the PAC wiring harness that I can tell. Anyone have any experience with this?

Thanks,
Chuck

NwAvGuy ODAC & Car Audio

Xaborus — Sun, 13 May 2012 20:08:28 GMT

As many of you know, the most critical thing in any SQ system is source. Not only a high bitrate MP3 or lossless format, but a excellent quality DAC.

Recently i have come across ODAC. Which was designed scientifically in order to kill audio "snake oil" (A/B testing against a $1600 DAC1). This was designed more for the "head-fi" market, but my question is -
Can it be implemented in car audio?

At only $100 for a bare assembled board, or $150 for a board in case, its too cheap to pass!

So really my question is,
Is there any way to connect this DAC to a car AMP? It only has a 3.5mm Headphone jack out.

ODAC

Speakers are "bottoming out"

djunified — Sun, 13 May 2012 15:07:36 GMT

Hello all,

First off, i shall start by introducing my system. I have a 1999 Sable, and some of you may know that it is impossible to install an aftermarket radio without some serious fab work. This has forced me to keep the stock radio installed. Luckily, the actual "radio" is in the trunk, and Ford calls it the "Rear Control Unit". After alot of R&D, i have managed to modify this unit to have some clean line-level RCA outputs. The output is nowhere near 2-volts like a traditional headunit, its somewhere below 1 volt. This method provides a much cleaner signal than any LOC that it have tried.

I have an oscilloscope to mess around with, and I found that I can turn the volume all the way up to 1 bar below max before I get any clipping. I can even turn the bass all the way up and still have a clean signal. All tutorials around here say to set the volume at its maximum undistorted setting before setting any gains. Well in my situation, I can do that, but I can also crank the bass to maximum and still have a clean signal. Where do you guys think I should be setting the volume/bass at?

As for the rest of the equipment, I have 5x7 JBL coaxials all around, factory ford tweeters in the front, a pioneer 12" svc sub, and a 4 channel Crunch 1200w as the powerplant. I am very happy with the bass from the sub, but I am disappointed because of the performance of the speakers. As a comparison, my friend has a 2011 lancer with the oem RF system. His speaker bass sounds incredible! No bottoming out of any sort. Whenever I try that on my system, the speakers sound like crap, and continue doing so until the bottom out.

Do you think anything can be done to fix this? Different gain setting, crossover position? Whoever chimes in will be greatly appreciated.

arc audio error code?

OBYMY — Sun, 13 May 2012 10:47:43 GMT

the amp IN PROTECTION MODE RED FLUSHING LED AND NO SOUND.
IN The manual of 1000.1bx The error Codes do not indicate the problem Only Numbers of code.
My amp has 3 Red Flash, Pause, a Red Flash.
What could be the problem?
I opened the amp and I saw that nothing was burn inside.
thanks.

Wiring help with head unit. Please help

stewie — Sun, 13 May 2012 00:53:56 GMT

Hi guys. I'm struggling with understanding the wiring of my head unit to old factory plug and existing front and rear speakers wires. Also i figured it would be good to learn if i ever again need to do this myself. I really appreciate your help guys.

Short video on all the wiring and my confusion. Please help.
Car Stereo Head Unit Wiring - YouTube

Sony CDXGT08 Wiring instructions

Pin Number / wire Color / Function

1 White Left Front Positive
2 Green Left Rear Positive
3 Violet Right Rear Positive
4 Grey Right Front Positive
5 Blue/White amplifier Remote
6 Blue Antenna Remote
7 Red Accessory 12 Volts
8 Black Ground
9 White/Black Left Front Negative
10 Green/Black Left Rear Negative
11 Violet/Black Right Rear Negative
12 Grey/Black Right Front Negative
13 Sky Blue Telephone Mute
14 Orange/White Illumination
15 Not Used Not Used
16 Yellow Constant 12 Volts
Source(s):
10 Year MECP Certified Car Audio Installer and 25 Year Certified Electronics Technician

2 amps on one d2 sub - question

BMWTUBED — Sat, 12 May 2012 20:40:35 GMT

I'm planning to run two amps (identical) to one dual voice coil sub. What is the best way to make sure I have the identical amount of power going to each coil?

Question about different S/N measurements

cel4145 — Sat, 12 May 2012 19:23:41 GMT

In this this review at PASMAG for the Precision Power P900.4, I don't quite understand one of the S/N test measures. They list the following:

Quote:

Signal to Noise Ratio referenced to 2V output.
(CEA-2006A) (1 watt @ 4 ohms)
-82.0dBA

Signal to Noise Ratio referenced to full output.
-103.8dBA

I understand the first test, but what are they using as full output? The Actual Measured Power @ 1.0% THD+N listed above in the table, or is it based on peak. I would assume the former since there is no peak power measurement listing, but I want to make certain I'm not guessing wrong.

Also, it seems strange to me that S/N would be that much lower at 1 watt into 4 ohms than at the higher output, but I am new to understanding this :)

Balanced or unbalanced?

Spyke — Sat, 12 May 2012 12:37:37 GMT

I think that i'm on the verge of understanding something but I need some help. I have a line driver for my sub amp and it has a switch for balanced and unbalanced(signal I guess) My amp has balanced inputs but i'm a little confused about the source/hu signal. I can switch between stereo and mono signal at the hu. Does this have something to do with the balanced and unbalanced thing?

Passenger mid cutting out

Kazimir — Sat, 12 May 2012 07:28:42 GMT

Sorry for not searching. Im out of town on 3g with little connection. So i have seas lotus reference comps active ms8 biamped off a jl hd600 4. My right mid keeps cutting out, but only when driviing and at random times. I checked the rcas and they appear tight. I need to check the speaker level connection at the amp and speaker when i get home sunday. The amp is set up with 2 mids on 1 gain adjust and the tweeters on the other.

Does this sound like clipping or just a bad connection. Also, last week had everything running and the sound turned into white noise. I count not adjust the volume via the ms8 or the source and the noise persisted through disconnecting the source. I got to work and when i came back out later the problem fixed itself. When i got home, i pulled the fuse and checked all connections and everything seemed fine. Any ideas?

Thanks in advance, not sure if i will have inet for the next day or 2.

Help Please - Alpine PXA-H510

jdhun — Sat, 12 May 2012 04:56:13 GMT

Hey Guys,

I have an Alpine PXA-H510 and a DVA-7996. When I connect them via AInet and put the switch on the HU on EQ setting only the preset memory can be accessed on the processor. Nothing else (eq, TA, sound fields etc) can be adjusted.

Can anyone tell me if the DVA-7996 can control the PXA-H510.

If not, which Alpine HU can fully control the PXA-H510?

NOTE: I do not have the controller for the PXA-H510

Thanks for the help...

Question about powering a hertz hx sub

hough73 — Fri, 11 May 2012 23:24:38 GMT

Right i hope this is the right section to put this thread in and this is just a question at the moment. if for example i was using an audison lrx 5.1 amp and was to power either a

hertz hx250 (the single voice coil version with 750 rms 4 ohms input from the amp)
hertz hx250d (the dual voice coil version with 1150 rms 2 ohms input from the amp).

the hertz hx250 & hx250d are both 450rms and 900 watts peak, but can anyone please tell me what difference in sound quality would be besides the second one being louder?

Midbass Specs

caver50 — Fri, 11 May 2012 23:23:33 GMT

Which specs do I look for in a midbass driver that would tell me that it's best suited for my truck door??

Phase vs Group Delay (or EQ/XO vs TA)

pionkej — Fri, 11 May 2012 16:50:46 GMT

This discussion stems from one fact, I have been preaching on the forum that shifts in phase within a drivers passband are not a big deal but that matching phase at the crossover points is very important. At the time, I was under the impression that this could be done by adjusting the crossover points and slopes (XO's) and by applying time alignment (TA). I noticed, however, that when adjusting TA on a speaker and measuring the output, nothing visibly changed.

It is often tossed around that playing with TA will help with matching the phase at the crossover point. From what I've seen, this is not true. Since what I saw went against what I've previously read/believed, I went searching.

Group Delay: In signal processing, group delay is a measure of the time delay of the amplitude envelopes of the various sinusoidal components of a signal through a device under test, and is a function of frequency for each component. Phase delay is a similar measure of the time delay of the phase, instead of the delay of the amplitude envelope, of each sinusoidal component. All frequency components of a signal are delayed when passed through a device such as an amplifier, a loudspeaker, or propagating through space or a medium, such as air.

Pulled from: Group delay and phase delay - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

I don't mean to speak for everybody here, but I believe when most people hear "group delay", they think of subs, particularly ported subs. The fact is that group delay comes in many forms. Certain speaker alignments impart group delay, crossovers impart group delay, and distance also imparts group delays. When we use TA, we aren't doing anything to adjust phase, we are simply electronically adjusting the group delay of one speaker to match the group delay of another speaker (that is, matching the acoustic center of speakers to each other). This doesn't mean we aren't affecting phase at all, we just are not adjusting it within a speakers passband. If that isn't clear, remember that phase is tied to frequency. Sound waves look like waves. Adjusting the acoustic center of speakers (using TA) to each other aligns these waves, which helps align the phase. This cuts down on comb-filtering (offset waves constructively and destructively combining). This is important, because we need speakers to match in phase, amplitude, and time (or at least two of the three--see ITD & ILD) across the entire frequency range.

So, when running an active system, it is fairly easy to match amplitude and time for a system. This is good because they are probably the two most important factors. Amplitude comes in the form of level matching (via gains) and frequency matching (via EQ). Time matching comes, obviously, from TA. However, phase is also an important factor to consider. The problem, to me, is that it is tossed around fairly casually which can make things confusing pretty fast.

When two speakers are perfectly in phase, the sounds combine and an increase in output is realized. When two speakers are 180 out of phase, they cancel each other out and create a large hole (null) in the frequency response. When people flip the polarity of a speaker to "match" phase, they aren't truly matched up, they are just closer to being in-phase than 180 out from each other. This is the starting point, but not the end.

These two speakers will never be completely in-phase or out of phase, since the speakers themselves and the environment (the car in our case) will affect phase as well. So, what can we do? Well, you already have two tools that are commonly used and recommended. Adjusting the phase 180 is easy. You simply swap the polarity, you can either flip the speaker wires at the amp, or adjust with your DSP (some even flip the phase for you when selecting 12db slopes since they impart a 180 phase shift). Once your speakers are as close to acoustic phase as possible by adjusting it broadly (by swapping polarity), you can move to TA. Again, with TA, we aren't adjusting the phase withing a speakers passband, we are simply delaying the soundwave so it matches up with another speaker. This can be done to match speakers on the same side (left midbass to left tweeter) and speakers across sides (left midbass to right midbass).

So, we have two broad swipes taken care of, what can we do next? In all honesty, this is the part where I'm hoping discussion can help everybody, so I'm leaving it fairly open ended.

EQ and XO's affect both frequency response and phase. This is another good thing, because when you level match your left side midbass to your right side midbass, via EQ, you are also helping match the phase. The tricky part, to me, is matching everything up at the crossover points. When you change the XO slope or point (or type of XO used), you affect both the frequency response and the phase. When this is properly executed (smooth transition in both FR and phase), the crossover point is seamless. When it's executed poorly, speaker localization becomes easy. This is because there is a disconnect between the speakers in phase. They may be level matched and aligned, but the phase disconnect can still lead to speaker localization.

So how do we match it up? At this point, my thoughts are to play with varying crossover points and slopes. With this basic bag of tools, you will probably have to compromise between flat frequency response and flat phase. Likely either choosing or or the other, or a compromise of both.

There is one other option I have been reading about lately, the all-pass filter. This filter is essntially used to adjust phase of a speaker at the high-pass crossover point without changing the speakers FR. Some amps and processors have this built in. The Helix processor lets you select phase adjustment points on the subwoofer channel. The new Zapco appears to allow it on all channels at (45,90,&180). Some processors allow you to set the values manually. So far the Rane RPM88 does this and it appears the new PS8 will too. This isn't as "user friendly", but it does give the user more control in the end. Most topics I've come across that mention using an all-pass filter say it does great for speaker integration. I believe thats because it's the "missing piece" in many systems. With an all-pass filter, you can level match, TA, set crossovers, EQ for flattest response, and then match phase at the crossover points.

So, reviewing what I've typed so far it appears like I'm about to drop a load of wisdom on how to do this...I'm not. I'm hoping for good open discussion though. Are any of my thoughts wrong? Does it really matter in a car with so many other issues to deal with? If it does matter, when tuning, do you focus on phase at the crossover point? If so, how do you manage it (XO slopes and points, all-pass filter)? If using slopes/points, do you strike a balance between flat FR and phase? If using an all-pass filter, are you using a commercially availble version (is it one I haven't mentioned)?

I know this post has been long-winded, but I wanted to get all my thoughts down in the best way I could to, hopefully, generate some good discussion.

Amp power output not constant across frequency spectrum?

Flatland2D — Fri, 11 May 2012 14:49:24 GMT

I posted about this in the general forum about setting my gains and have a better understanding now, but this part of my question wasn't really answered so I thought I might get a better response here.

Anyway, I was setting my gains with an oscilloscope and noticed that the output voltage generally got larger as frequency went down. If I set my gains for no clipping at the cross over frequency (80 Hz) where the voltage magnitude was the greatest, there would only be a couple of volts output in the kHz range. Why is this? Why don't I read 12.25 V (75 W into 2 Ohms) across all frequencies?

I know speaker impedance is not constant, but it seems like it would have to be changing quite a bit for this to be true. For example, the amp put out 12 V at 80 Hz and 3 V at 2 kHz (just guesstimates, I forgot the exact numbers).

Anyone know the theory behind this? Thanks for any help.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2

JL XD600/6 Bridged 5-6 channel problem

johnng117 — Fri, 11 May 2012 13:23:59 GMT

Hi All,
I have the JL XD600/6 Amp, I will be running components at the front and full range on the rear, so channel 1,2,3,4 will be running at 4ohms. The problem is the sub-woofer which is a single sub (JL Audio 13TW5) running at 3ohms, the amplifier states that on bridged mode it could run 4ohms lowest.
What can I do to prevent the Amp from over heating?

Thanks for any advice..

How to choose the speakers frequency ranges of my 3 way + sub system

cerrone — Fri, 11 May 2012 12:54:46 GMT

Greets guys.

I just got an electonic active crossover in my hands so I started to think which setup would be better to make to my audio system. Since this is my first attempt to build the system like this any help will be highly appreciable.

Frequency-wise the system consits of the following components:

The speakers freq ranges are:
Hertz HT 28 � 1200 � 22000 Hz
DLS UR 2.5 - 500-4500 Hz
Hertz HV 165 XL � 40 � 6000 Hz
Focal SB 25 A1 � 22 � 500 Hz

JVC KS-AX 6604 amp
HPF 30 � 500 Hz
LPF 30 � 500 Hz

Audison SRx3 amp
HPF 50 � 220 Hz
LPF 50 � 220 Hz

Longmill CX-9 Crossover (with fixed freqs)
TweetsHPF 2400/3500/5000/7000 Hz
Mids HPF 50/80/120 Hz and LPF 5000/7000/12000 Hz
Woofs HPF 50/80/120 Hz and LPF 1500/2400/3500 Hz
Sub LPF 60/80/120/180 Hz

Option 1
TweetsHPF 2400 Hz (CX-9)
Mids HPF 500 Hz (JVC amp) and LPF 5000 Hz (CX-9)
Woofs HPF 50 Hz (CX-9 or Audison amp) and LPF 1500 Hz (CX-9)
Sub LPF 50 Hz (Audison amp) or 60 Hz (CX-9 lowest)

Option 2 � to shift the Woofs LPF in order to match the tweets HPF
TweetsHPF 2400 Hz (CX-9)
Mids HPF 500 Hz (JVC amp) and LPF 5000 Hz (CX-9)
Woofs HPF 50 Hz (CX-9 or Audison amp) and LPF 2400 Hz (CX-9)
Sub LPF 50 Hz (Audison amp) or 60 Hz (CX-9 lowest)

So far the questions after having the two versions are:

1. Which one is better to use for the Woofs HPF? CX-9 or Audison amp
2. Which freq is better to choose for the Woofs LPF?
- LPF 1500 Hz � leaving a gap between Tweets and Woofs from 1500 to 2400 Hz
- or LPF 2400 Hz - Woofs LPF matches the tweets HPF
- or LPF 3500 Hz - overlapping freqs
3. Which crossover freq to choose between Woofs and a Sub?
- LPF 50 Hz (Audison amp lowest), 60 Hz (CX-9 lowest) or higher.

Other reasonable option 3 in my situation is to forget the �active� way and run the comp set Hertz HSK 165 XL on the JVC amp - 2 x 200 W RMS at 4 ohms, using their own passive crossover, reaching their limit of 150 W RMS per channel.
Thus the Audison amp will run the mids on 2 x 75 W RMS at 4 ohms + the sub 1 x 250 W RMS at 4 ohms.

Any thoughts or other suggestions with the current system setup?

Need help jl13w7 4th order

Richv72 — Fri, 11 May 2012 02:15:47 GMT

Hi everyone, My first post and I was wondering if anyone has had experience making a jl audio 13w7 4th order bandpass. I have tried to use the box calculators online but I cant figure it out. I have also emailed jl audio several times to see if they would know what the chamber sizes would be but so far havent recieved any responses from them. I am putting the sub in the trunk of a 1965 chevelle convertible so I would like to bring the port into the cabin. Im not sure how having no cabin pressure will affect the sound so im thinking tuning lower then the normal 45hz, maybe like 35 hz or so. The specs on the sub are:
qes: .476
qms: 7.517
qts: .448
fs: 23.5hz
vas: 104liters
xmax: 32mm
sd: .0693m sq
Pe: 1500
no: .269%
Dual 1.5 ohm vc

I have a huge trunk so size isnt an issue. Some people were saying 4th orders were a 2:1 ratio ported/sealed but I have also read that isnt always the case. So if anyone can help with the box calculator that would be super awesome.

BMW noise/craziest noise ever

SQfreak — Thu, 10 May 2012 16:36:59 GMT

Ok I have a real crazy problem here.
Using Technic's BMW harness and a Navone powered LOC I have a shop adding 3 amps to my E60N - 535i - with the Hifi system (not Logic 7).

They have hit a road block and I really need some help.

New speakers in the doors (Seas Neo '27c/g tweeters and Fostex 3.5") connected to the factory HU = no noise just low volume. However, factory HU high lvl speaker outs connected to ANY OTHER DEVICE (Amp Hi lvl inputs, JL Clean Sweep, LOC) and there is terrible noise in my speakers. It sounds like alt whine and a strange computer clicking sound.

They have tried everything they and I can think of except wiring an HU in the trunk and seeing if the noise is gone (which they are trying this afternoon) I have been doing this a long time and I'm out of ideas. All grounds were tested even grounded the HU to the battery. It has to be something about how you wire this BMW iDrive HU.

I'm at a total loss here and I know they are about to say it's a broken factory HU, even though with it connected to the new speakers solo they are crystal clear.

Dose any one have an idea please??

Pretty crazy blog I just found

Ultimateherts — Thu, 10 May 2012 15:28:49 GMT

Pretty crazy blog I just found... I would imagine some of the designs could be adapted to car audio. Many many pages of speaker builds!

Martinsson's Blog - Simple & nice DIY proposal

Amp in protect mode (checked)

dummptyhummpty — Thu, 10 May 2012 15:25:31 GMT

I was driving to dinner last night and all of a sudden my amp (DLS A4) shut off. The remote turn-on has occasionally become loose and I figured that's what had happened. Once I had a chance to check, I found that the amp was going into protect mode. I disconnected all of the RCAs in to the amp, but that did not help. I visually checked all of the speaker wire connections from the amp to the crossovers and out from the crossovers, but did not see anything that could be causing a short. To be safe, I disconnected all negative inputs into the crossovers, but this did not help either. Lastly, I measured voltage across the amps terminals at around 13 volts. Is it safe to say the amp will need to go in for repairs?

Which is Worse: Port Near Sub Internally/Externally?

40oz. — Thu, 10 May 2012 06:16:41 GMT

What up DIYMA, I'm working on a ported box design for a single IA Lethal Injection 12" and am stuck debating which way to have port facing inside/outside the enclosure. Basically, the port and sub need to be on the same baffle for my specific application(firing upward into a rear window of hatchback). So the woofer will be on one end of the baffle and I can either have the ports right next to the woofer and extending to the opposite end OR I can have the ports on the opposite end and extending toward the woofer.

Box dimensions are 30" x 13.5" x 13", volume being ~1.9 cubes after displacements. Ports will be 3" x ~17" and will have 90 degree elbows tuned to ~31-32Hz with ~7.4 inches^2 of port area per cube.

So after a bit of research, I have found that having port near sub inside the enclosure can cause problems with unloading. At the same time I have seen lots of pictures of people with this alignment without any complaints. On the other hand I have read that having port near sub externally can cause cancellation but I have also read some people recommending to have sub and port as close as possible (externally).

I realize that neither one of these is ideal, but I have no other options. Which is the better alignment?

Thanks in advance for any input.

Acoustic treatments, simple to crazy...what have you tried?

jcollin76 — Thu, 10 May 2012 03:15:15 GMT

Just looking to see what people have tried, and had success with... even if minor.

I know everyone has tried different things to tame reflections, some work...some don't. Some are simple ... some extravagant. I saw that Erin's pillars looked like a mad wookie not too long ago , but hey if it works....Lol

Foam, dash mats, covered panels, suede, insulation, grill cloth etc.. what have you tried? How well did it work? Did you try to keep it aesthetically pleasing, or just go for pure function...

Post pics if you can.
Thanks guys:D

Shield speaker wire?

diynube — Wed, 09 May 2012 20:05:11 GMT

Hi,
I found that my system produces a nasty noise on the the front left tweeter. Interestingly, it produces the noise for extended periods of time, but there are times that it doesn't produce the noise.
I have an MS-8 with a 4-channel amp powering a 2-way active front stage. Disconnecting the RCA's at the amplifier affects the noise very little. The only way to kill the noise is to disconnect the tweeter from the amp. I'm guessing that induction from something under the dash area is causing the noise.

I want to shield the speaker wire to see if that helps.
What suggestions do you guys have?
I have thought of the following:
1. Aluminum tape wrapped around the speaker wire.
2. Aluminum foil wrapped with tape.
3. Pre-fabbed metal shielded speaker wire of some sort.
4. Use RG-6 for speaker wire.

I may splice the wire right before it goes into the door, but I may just pull the door card off and run all new wire. I am open to suggestions.
Thanks

Samsung Galaxy S2 MHL adapter... true bit accurate digital audio?

stealth418 — Wed, 09 May 2012 18:14:52 GMT

I intend to run a MHL adapter (micro USB to HDMI) on my galaxy s2 and from the hdmi cable run a HDMI-to-toslink converter to feed my Audison bit ten D.

However, my concern is that the MHL adapter does not deliver 'true' bit accurate digital audio straight from the android application. I have a bad feeling that it either...

A) takes the analog audio signal from the micro USB pins and reconverts it to a tainted digital audio signal with an ADC built into the dongle itself or....

B) Android OS on a low level manipulates the signal in some way before it even reaches a DAC or...

C) even worse... a combination of A and B. :X

Anyone know for sure? If I actually can get a 'pure' digital signal from my galaxy s2, it would really simplify my plans for the new audio setup.

Question regarding the new P DSP or Mosconi 06/08 and BMW radio

Sptsmed — Wed, 09 May 2012 18:11:00 GMT

I am looking at a full upgrade on my E 38 750IL sport and would like to keep the head unit, but ditch the DSP/AMP prior to adding all new speakers and new amps. I have been looking at the MS 08 and now the P Dsp and 06/08 and just had a few questions if anyone knows.

I know on my 750, the dash unit is just a monitor and the radio I believe sends out a set signal volume and all tweaking for volume, bass, treble and EQ is done in the DSP along with crossovers and further amplification. I have been reading that the Helix and Mosconi DSP units are not capable of volume control if feed digitally unless a new android app is used. With my head unit I do not think that is going to be an issue as I am going to have to attach RCA's to the 5 volt outputs from the radio module to send to either an amp or dsp. I am trying to figure out if I will still retain volume control from the front unit if I go with either DSP. Any and all information would be greatly appreciated.

O scope

Spyke — Tue, 08 May 2012 21:41:15 GMT

Would this work for setting gains?

Velleman 40MS/S Pocket Handheld Oscilloscope/HPS140I | eBay

Midrange problem. Too small a box causing it?...

james2266 — Tue, 08 May 2012 15:53:41 GMT

I have been working on the new three way setup for a couple weeks now. It consists of Hertz ML165 in doors and Hertz ML700/Morel MT22 in Focal's prefab midbox in the dash corners. My concern is over the Hertz ML700 midrange. I think this is too small of an enclosure for this driver possibly? I have about a 6 db suckout on the frequency curve at 1250 Hz and 1600 Hz. I have determined that this is not a crossover issue and I don't believe it to be a phase issue. I have tried both reversing phase and playing with time alignment and moving crossovers up and down and the suckout is always there. Here is the pdf for this driver:

http://www.hertzaudiovideo.com/Doc/H...eet_ML_700.pdf

As you can see there is a bit of a dip in the response at these frequencies. It is however only supposed to be about 2 db at the worst. Could the small box be accentuating this dip in the response? I did flatten things out with my eq but lost a fair amount of output in doing so.

I don't like how the midboxes look in the vehicle so I am in the process of building fiberglass versions. They will have more airspace than the midboxes so hopefully I will need to eq less once I get the final version in there. I am curious as to what other people's views are on this problem.

port and sub direction

Ralimore — Tue, 08 May 2012 13:13:25 GMT

I'm putting a set of 15s in a 08 kingcab. My question is about box design. I don't have much time to dedicate to box building anymore so I want to get the box about right the first time as it will be several months before I can build another one. I am planning on using RE Sxx 15s. I may change my mind on that and get something else. What my main concerns with the box are the direction the subs fire and also the ports. I can have them firing any direction except the side. Up, down, forwards, back..same with the ports. Any advice you could give would be appreciated. I have considered having the aero ports firing forward near the bottom of the box and the subs firing up. I got 2 soundstream 1700 w rms amps so they will be well powered.
Already have getting my electrical upgraded covered and sound deadening is on process. Just need advice on the box. Going with about 3.75 cu per. Also, is there a build log thread that I missed? Using my phone so forum reading is annoying..

Pro's and Con's Horizontal Speaker Placement in Car Audio

asawendo — Tue, 08 May 2012 08:32:12 GMT

Ok maybe you guys can give me any advice for this topic. :)

Because of the limitation of some car I Must put together midrange and tweeter in horizontal lanes like some monitor speaker in pro audio recording.

Is that will creating any serious problem? Especially in terms of proper staging (width, height, depth) and imaging?

Best regards

Wendo

MS8 bad mic/cord?

BuickGN — Mon, 07 May 2012 21:20:42 GMT

After more than a year of trying to get a decent tune out of this thing with a handful of "amazing" tunes but with the majority being way worse than the passives, I'm looking into hardware problems. I've read the entire HUGE MS8 thread nearly 3 times now. I've tried every tip and trick there is.

My stage is non-existant. It sounds like a clock radio. If I turn processing off, not only does it sound better, the stage is much better as well...no TA, no EQ. I can set the headset on the passenger seat bottom during calibration, I can wear it reversed with the right side on my left ear and it makes no significant difference over doing it the right way. In the beginning, I had a decent stage and it sounded pretty good overall. With no equipment changes it's deteriorated to the point I run it bypassed all the time.

The midranges are always too hot, especially the passenger one. Yes, I've turned the amp up/down before calibration and reset to factory default. I got that one in a million tune a while back and I should have left it that way.

So is there a way to test the headset, a resistance value or self diagnostic? The tune is so terrible 99% of the time with that one in a million tune a couple times a year that I wonder if there's not an issue with the cord, maybe I have an open and if it's plugged in/twisted/pulled just right it gives continuity which would explain a super bad tune or a super good tune with no inbetween.

Autosound 2000 CD's

getonerd — Mon, 07 May 2012 18:37:56 GMT

i have 101-105

i dont think 104 & 105 is not 100 % i think its missing tracks

http://db.tt/ivDVxvFt

its all one big 729 mb

its from my dropbox again

fill free to make an torrent of each one

Rockford Fosgate Volume under pressure CD

getonerd — Mon, 07 May 2012 18:32:20 GMT

i got this off a web site awhile ago i dont even know where
be gentle its my dropbox account

http://db.tt/YbAJ2jtU

tips? how r u running your HSK 130's/165's?

ferret111 — Mon, 07 May 2012 02:47:52 GMT

my 130's are only being fed 75 per channel off a JL Slash 300/4 and just don't seem to sound right...kind of breaking up at higher volumes but I thought these speakers could take more power

I don't know if I should be bridging at 150 per side or running active

how have some of you owners run/ran/experimented with yours?

90* out of phase :(

g.costanza — Mon, 07 May 2012 00:13:00 GMT

My Camry has an awesome jbl factory stereo but the hu and amp are inseparable. Anyway, ALL I WANTED TO DO was add a sub. I installed a sealed 12 and amp. I tapped into the rear woofers for the speaker level signal for the amp. The problem is that with the sub wired up either at 0 or 180* out of phase with the mains, im getting a lot of cancellation between woofers amd sub. The cars woofers have really good deep bass respsonse, which isnt helping. I imagine that they r either 90 or 240* out of phase. There's really no way for me to hi pass the cars woofers passively. They r 2 ohm...Bass blockers would roll off at like 300hz :(. I AM NOT GOING TO CHANGE THE FACTORY SYSTEM beyond adding the sub. Any ideas on a way to insert a 90* phase shift? What about a stand alone LOC vs the one built into the amp? Any of those have phase adjustments? This isn't a competition system, btw :) Thanks!!!

Biamp levels?

Spyke — Sun, 06 May 2012 23:56:58 GMT

I need some advise on setting my tweeter levels. 2way active front with woofers mounted in the kicks. Tweeters mounted in the doors. Running off of a 4 channel. I was under the impression that the gains should be set equally at the amp. The tweeters still seem to dominate even with the tw level on my hu turned all the way down. The tweeters are 4 ohm 93db and the woofers are 8 ohm 88db. I'm guessing the tweeters being so close could be the problem but I also thought that 1m in distance only equaled a 3db difference. Thanks all.

Need advise on a possible door build

hough73 — Sun, 06 May 2012 22:06:47 GMT

Hi im looking for some opinions and advise on a possible door build for my car, iv not done a door build for a very long time, so be bear with me, basically im not fussed if i go for a stealth look or not, but i dont want a in your face look!!!!

my car is a bmw e46 4 door touring and the oem speakers in my car are 6" mids which i will be replacing with a set of dls iridium 6.2 which are 6 1/2", the pictures below are as follows

The first picture is my standard e46 black door card.
The second pictre is the door build im thinking of making, but need to ask a few questions first.
The last picture is a stealth build pretty safe i guess, but it would be nice to make something a little different.

The question i need to ask is, if i decided to try and make something similar to the second picture where the speaker is mounted to the door card, would you still have mdf baffles behind the door card mounted to the car door so when the door is all put together would you screw the door card to the baffles behind on the car door so making a air tight tunnel of sorts???

i hope this thread makes scene lol

Attached Images

	door1.jpg (39.5 KB)
	dr5 small.jpg (23.6 KB)
	e46 stealth2.jpg (47.5 KB)

Alpine H800 sound processor issue, please help!

harmon_bro — Sun, 06 May 2012 04:55:16 GMT

I have a major problem with my recently installed Alpine H800 sound processor.

My setup:

1. Car: Civic FD 2006 model
2. Input source:
a. Stock integrated CD player
b. Kenwood's KOS-A300 radio upgrade system
3. Components in the front with no rear fills
4. Image Dynamic Subwoofer
5. Mosconi 4 Channel amp
6. Alpine RUX-C800 controller

Sound processor wiring setup:
Standard straight-forward installation of the wiring to power up the sound processor.

Here is the problem
1. The sound processor is warm by only having the ignition turned on(note at this point the processor Power On light is "off" and the music system is not turned on but its warming up already.

2. When the audio setup is all turned on, the music plays and from here on the sound processor temperature shoots up to 51.4 C in 4 mins and the music keeps playing as long as the processor is switched on but if I switch off the processor at this point and immediately switch it on there is no sound output at all. Everything is turned on the controller display everthing lights up but there is no sound at all.

Then i switch off the processor for 15 mins to let it cool down and then switch it on and everything works fine but yes the temperature rises once again.

PLEASE HELP! I have no clue why this is happening.

HELP PLEASE-did the shop misinstall my speakers/amp?

ferret111 — Sun, 06 May 2012 01:30:21 GMT

OK......just had my JL Audio 300/4v2 installed along with a pair of Hertz HSK 130 comps and thus far I'm pretty underwhelmed.

To begin with, the speakers are breaking up at higher volumes but evidently the installer only ran two channels as opposed to bridging all four so it's just 75 watts rms per side, while they're rated for 100rms and I thought they could take alot more than that

When I asked the guy beforehand about biamping and/or running active he kind of brushed me off which I thought odd as I was paying by the hour as opposed to a flat rate, plus my instructions were for him to take his time and as a token of good will I even offered him my old amp for free which he kind of scoffed at but which was then later missing when the car was returned.

Also the midbass kind of blows but I guess that's not his fault, they're only 5.25's and still stiff and I'm not hearing those silky highs yet and smooth midrange that I've heard people rave about.

So I'm gonna take it in to another installer and have him once over the install and hopefully he can improve things a bit.

Is there anything I should mention to him or do you think he'll be able to diagnose this accurately? He's said to be quite good. I'll probably have him do some sound deadening/sealing for me also.

On the plus side..I finally have tunes again in my ride, I do hear some flashes of potential with these comps and I was also able to snag a pair of DCX Coaxials on the way out for $80 to try some rear fill.

New DEH-80prs faceplate gets really warm. Normal?

stlyns — Sat, 05 May 2012 20:57:54 GMT

New unit, bought and installed today.
Back side of face gets almost too warm, almost hot to the touch after it's been on awhile. The part of the main unit below the CD slot seems ok.
Is this normal? Something I should be concerned with?

Never noticed this issue with other head units before.

I thought I'd ask here since a few other members have this HU, and to see if this issue is common.

OK here's my first technical question about resonance

MUGWUMP — Sat, 05 May 2012 06:53:04 GMT

At least I think that's what it is. I'd really love some help so I can educate myself.

I was listening to Zero 7 - Somersault

Zero 7 - Somersault - YouTube

On one particular note in the bass line at 0:30 it makes a small buzzing on the passenger side. I can't seem to hunt the rattle down. I was surprised I was able to guess the frequency within 10 hz by listening to the Bink Audio cd. I'd be willing to bet $$ if I went down to my car and played track 20, which is 80hz, it would make that noise. I was scared at first because I thought it was distortion, but my gains are so conservative. I also notice on one other particular note I can feel down by my feet where it seems to vibrate. I'm not talking about panels rattling. It's hard to explain.

Can anyone explain what this is?

My crossover for my components is set at 80hz. Is this coincidence?

Dead Radio Help

Morts — Fri, 04 May 2012 20:43:24 GMT

OK guys I have a JVC KW-NT3HDT and has been installed for over a year now no problems. I got into the car today and it was dead.

First checked my fuses and all checked out continuity wise.

Checked the fuse on the back of the unit and it also was fine.

Pulled the unit which is a pain. Slapped it on my 12V test bench and bang it fired right up.

I then removed the aftermarket harness and to eliminate a harness problem. Plugged in the Factory stereo and nothing with that unit either.

Put the DMM on the constant power and got a 1.2V reading??? Is this enough to power on the unit?

Put the DMM on the power and got 13.7.

Any idea of why neither unit will power on in the car? Like I said it has been trouble free for over a year now. I would appreciate any input or suggestions on what to check next. The only odd thing is my battery seems to be a bit low after it sat for a couple weeks and it is a newer Die Hard Platinum. This would be the only thing odd.

Car is a 05 Crown Vic Sport

Equipment is MMATS D300-HC and a Vibe Black Box 4 channel
Thanks a lot Bill

Fuse on power wire keeps blowing..help

riored4v — Fri, 04 May 2012 19:23:53 GMT

Buddy of mine bought my old sub off and we installed it yesterday. He was previously using an Infinity Perfect sub and he bought my Dayton HO DVC sub. The sub is a DVC4ohm and we had it wired for 2ohm. The amp is a Alpine PDX 600.1 so it looks like its stable at 2ohms.

After we swapped the subs, we turned it up and the amp cut out for a bit. Turned the car back on it and it was fine. As the volume was turned up again, it cut out and it turns out the power wire fuse blew. From what we could tell, the fuse in the power wire was pretty small so he mentioned he purchased a fuse that would equal up to the fuses in the amp (80a). Today he mentioned that the bigger fuse blew again.

Really not sure what would be causing it to keep blowing. None of the settings were changed from when he was running the Infinity sub. Any ideas?

MS8 System Design Input Needed!

bfrance — Fri, 04 May 2012 19:15:13 GMT

Okay, here's the deal. I'm spec'ing out the layout of my system for my car, and I've hit a question that I could use some input on.

First, here's the gear I'll be running

Alpine HU
MS8
3-way fronts (Focal oem 6.5", Dayton Rs100 4", Vifa xt25 tweet,)
5.25" co-axial center (Hybrid Mirus M51)
5.25" sides (Hybrid Mirus M51)
JBL GTi-1000 subs (2 10", old-school goodness!)
Aura 50x4 (2 channels to mid/tweets with passives, 1 channel to center)
Aura 150x2 for 6.5"
Aura 150x2 for subs
MS8 Internal amp for sides (20x2)

My question is whether I'd be better off running my 4"/tweet combo in the kicks or the doors? The car is a '94 Integra. Either way, fiberglass and some fab-work will transpire. I had it temporarily set-up with the 4"/tweet in the kicks (no center yet,) and it sounded good, but all of Andy W's posts point towards the 4" and tweet being in the door as the preferred set-up with a center (tweet either in the sail panels or up high on the door panel.)

Here are pics of the kicks and door panel for reference.

If I go for the doors, I was thinking of putting the 4" in the area just above and forward of the pocket, with the tweet in the area in front of the door handle (I think the xt25 is too big to fit the sail panel.)

Any other ideas?

Thanks,

-Ben

help level setting of DQS audiocontrol Need Advice

ScottyGreen — Fri, 04 May 2012 15:25:14 GMT

Hi everyone, I just purchased a NIB audiocontrol DQS and am having some trouble setting the input/output levels on the unit. If I go by the owners manual the levels seem set too high and produce a "hiss" in my speakers. eq in all flat positions. HU all flat positions.

I have tried setting the input lower than half way with the output higher than half, both at half, both more than half etc. Everything I try seems to still introduce hiss UNLESS I turn both the input and output lower than half, that sounds the most 'clean' however my amplifier gain then has to be turned up more to compensate for the lower input it's getting and I'm afraid of over working my 4 channel amplifier. If set to half on both it produces less overall sound output than when I had HU straight to my amps.

Right now I have it going to a JL hd600/4 and a rockford sub amp.
My HU supposedly is 4v x3 however I don't think it's even close. Without the eq I had no noise whatsoever before.

If I set both the input and output to half, without touching my amplifier gains the overall sound output is LESS than if I have it straight from hu to my amps. It is basically attenuating the signal from my headunit when set to half on both. So my question is: Is it better to leave this at half on both, or turn it a little less than half and turn up my amp gains more? As I said above, if I turn either one of the input or output over half then I get hiss but a stronger signal... I have tried very carefully to keep all signal cables and power/grounds away from each other and I don't think that is the issue. I had zero noise (inaudible anyway) until I put in this eq.

Any advice on level settings of the eq would be appreciated. I also have a dmm to measure input output of the rca's if that would help anything?

Thanks in advance for any help I would really appreciate it!

Pioneer DEH-80PRS - Won't read mp3/aac CDs

_Rom_ — Fri, 04 May 2012 13:54:52 GMT

Got this unit end of last week, finally almost got to the stage of setting it up after finishing the rest of the install.

I've burnt a cd, with a few single mp3 and aac files. Then a few albums in folders in a mix of mp3 and aac.
It keeps throwing up error 23 - unsupported format.
Yet a dragged an album and some single songs from the cd, onto a usb stick, and it plays all of them?!

Plays retail cds fine.

While I'm here, should it not display track name when streaming via Bluetooth? Much lower spec units manage this. Maybe it's a setting somewhere, just getting device name and rest is blank.

Sent From My Galaxy Note With Tapatalk 2

Do I need more power or do I have too much

mitchyz250f — Fri, 04 May 2012 03:02:10 GMT

I am moving my amps from under the seats to a false floor. This means I have room for more or larger amps, but can I use more power? Because I have ICSBAS (I Can't Stop Buying Amps Syndrom), I have lots a lots of amps of various sizes. All old school Orion GX.

My midbasses are 12" and can take more power than I have. Currently I have 160 watt at 8 ohms going to each. Is this more than I need, is it just stupid or is it not enough. I have the amps to go up or down.

So is there a way (science) to see if I am using all the power or half of it or do I need more? For example if I use a small fuse and it doesn't blow does that mean I am not using all the power?

Speakers fading out / static Issue... related?

SmashedPumpkins — Fri, 04 May 2012 01:23:10 GMT

Specifications
Kenwood 8120
CDT Audio ES 62ius Fronts /w tweets
CDT Audio CL 62cv Rears /w tweets
Dash Tweets
3 Boston Acoustics G1 10"
Sundown 100.4 4 Channel Amp
Sundown 1000d Sub Amp

This system was originally in my Tundra and everything worked perfect. Now that I've installed it into my Corolla I'm having issues with the front speakers cutting out or fading out. The front speakers are located on channels 3 & 4 on my amp while the back speakers are located on channels 1 & 2.

I believe I have two problems but they may or may not be connected so I'm going to describe both issues. With the volume all the way down I hear static when the RCA cables are not wrapped together. Strange right? If I wrap the RCA cables together the static completely disappears. The power wire is on the opposite side of the car. If I unplug the fronts or if I unplug the backs the static also disappears completely. I've tried replacing both RCA cables but the static remains if both RCA cables are plugged in and unwrapped. My ground reads the same as the ground on the battery terminal so I can't imagine there's any issues there.

Now the real head ache is the front speakers cutting out. (Channels 3 & 4) The music seems to hiccup only while driving. (No problem while idling) The sound drops in volume and back to normal in a split second. I swapped the RCA cables on the AMP from front to back to see if the issue moved to the back speakers and to my surprise it did. The front speakers no longer cut out while the backs now did. Thus the wiring must be fine. Since the front speakers worked fine when the RCA's were switched I would assume that all 4 channels on the AMP are functioning properly. Does this mean something is going wrong with the head unit? Is the head unit not getting enough power for some reason? (Like I said earlier it worked perfect in my Tundra) Is there something else that could be causing this?

Something else to note is that it does not cut out when completely faded to the left or right. The problem occurs regardless of volume level. The problem does not occur if idling.

Any ideas on what might be causing both issues? Are they related somehow? I'm out of ideas... I'm going to see if it still occurs when switching everything to my SUB AMP but my guess is that it will. Thanks for the help.

Here's the kits I used...

RCA Cables
Amazon.com: Tsunami RCA701-17 RCA Male to Male Cable (17 feet, Gray): Electronics
Amp Kit (Different fuse)
Amazon.com: SoundQuest SQK0 1/0 Gauge Copper-Clad Aluminum Wiring Kit: Car Electronics
14 Gauge speaker Wiring
Amazon.com: Raptor S14-100 100-Feet 14 Gauge speaker wire (Clear): Car Electronics

double din Ipod control/holder

Jroo — Thu, 03 May 2012 19:04:24 GMT

Thought some of you might thought this would be cool and are moving this direction. I found on another site. Their description below

We've long thought it was stupid to hook up your iPhone to a car stereo that then makes you use its convoluted control system instead of the iPhone itself. Apparently, so did these guys. The Devium Dash ($290-$340) is a new in-dash car stereo that is built around a faceplate made to accomodate an iPhone or iPod touch, securing it in a CNC'd aluminum and plastic cradle while giving you full access to the touchscreen and all your apps. Other features of the Dash include a double-din body, 50W x 4 output with 2 preamp outputs, and your choice of standard aluminum or anodized black or white finishes. Arriving in July.

Dash|Devium

Pxe-h660 problem, no sound.

Juldupp — Thu, 03 May 2012 16:24:08 GMT

So I made the install at a local audio shop, guy seems really good, but never installed any audio processor.

Here's my setup; first its a golf 2011 with multimedia kit, two pioneer premier components speakers in front, in the back doors i have my stock speakers, and in the back (over the trunk) i have 2x 6x9 dual speakers for bass mostly, that's why i have a sub to RCA wire between my amp and processor.

Since my amp is a 4 ch, we were unable to plug my backdoor speakers to it, instead we left them on the radio, and made a bypass to the processor so it receives the signal, but i don't think that's the problem, i think its much simpler.

Now that the install is made, were trying to figure out why there's no sound on both front and trunk-rear speakers, there's only sound on my oem speakers in my back doors :bs: connections seems legit here it is;

Any thought's on why i have no sound ? :heart:

Help Needed - Alpine PXE H660 - Lost CD & Mic

johnng117 — Thu, 03 May 2012 14:05:20 GMT

I've missed placed my CD & Mic for the PXE H660, been trying to find it for 1 week now and decided that its gone.

Anyone with links to where i could download the CD program?
The Mic, could i replace with ALPINE KTX H100?

Been trying to contact Alpine but no reply..

Be great if someone could help.... My first post.:)

Strange Tweeter Clipping Issue- DEXP99 Active

avanti1960 — Thu, 03 May 2012 00:16:01 GMT

I'm experiencing this weird clipping / distortion issue that does not make sense and would appreciate it if someone could explain what was happening-

It's on the "high" tweeter channels of my DEX P99 running active and it's hard to explain-

Amp gains set using 1K signal and measuring 17.3 volts @ 3/4 volume per JL spec.
Ran autotune- it set the level for the high channels @ -9db, -4db for the mids.

I bumped up the network level to -0 on the mids and -5 on the high for the tweeters- no big deal.

Tweeter x-over @ 5K, within limits of the driver.

When I play at medium volume, the tweeters begin to sound distorted and harsh.
Now here is the interesting part that I do not understand-

I lower the tweeter channel level back to -9db and the mids to -4 or so.
Now it plays cleaner at a much higher net volume level than the previous bumped up settings.
The relationship level between the mids and tweets are about identical, yet setting the channel level higher than the original autotune results in much sooner clipping than backing off on the channel levels and then turning the volume up higher.

I can get satisfactory sound but do not understand the logic of what is happening- it just seems wierd that I cannot adjust the high channel level higher without causing clipping but once I lower it the total net system volume (and tweeters) can play much higher.
a net volume / voltage is what the amp is seeing- why should it clip if the levels are set at the network or total system volume?

Thanks in advance.

jbl gto1514d infinite baffle?

negativegain — Wed, 02 May 2012 09:16:15 GMT

i just ordered a jbl gto 15 to try out, and i am interested in mounting it in an infinite baffle setup in my audi a6 firing through the ski pass.

the qts of the jbl is .47 and according to acoustic elegance, with a trunk of 15cu.ft. the qts will actually be raised to .57.
which makes this a decent candidate for an ib application, no?

tia for any advice.

some free labor in the DFW area

SNEAKY — Wed, 02 May 2012 02:10:50 GMT

i am a person that learns pretty easily, but i am more of a hands on learner. that being said, i want to learn fiberglass, and i am offering some free labor to help some body who is about to build something and would allow me to help out.i want to build a box for our mustang and want to keep it a neat as possible and a glass enclosure IMHO is the best way to accomplish this. i am in Denton, but have issue with driving most any where in the metroplex. i do not post here often but have met a couple guys from here and all have been good guys. so let me know:laugh:

Phase question

Spyke — Tue, 01 May 2012 19:42:28 GMT

This is a general question about what happens to phase when leaving a gap between a xo point. If I set my mid and tweeter both at 4k and both with 6db slopes and then play a test tone and get them in proper phase. What would happen if I then moved the mid down to say 2k and the tweeter up to 8k? Would they still be in phase or not. I'm guessing no but i'd like some expert opinions. Also if no, How would you be able to get them into phase w/ each other?

Arc audio ks 900.6 w/exodus anarchy mids

eprater1 — Tue, 01 May 2012 02:56:39 GMT

Straight to the point.

Doest the arc have the balls to run the exodus anarchy mids with just a single non-sub channel (rated at a very conservative 60 w rms from what I'm told)

I know the ks is a great sq amp but worry about it not being able handle the exodus mids, SB tweets and a sub to be named later.

running sealed and ported in the same system? whats the outcome?

rjtapp — Tue, 01 May 2012 01:48:26 GMT

Hi all. I have a question and it may be dumb but in the short time I've been a member here, I've learned this is where you come with questions to get the most experienced answer.
I was wondering what a system would sound like if a person was to run two seperate amps to two seperate subs the difference being one sub is sealed and the other is ported?
Running seperate amps would allow different tuning to each sub for the enclosure type so is it do able with a positive outcome? I'm at work on break so ill check back from time to time but I won't be able to participate directly until after midnight pacific time but your knowledge intrigues me and others I've asked were skeptical.
Thanks so much for your time and advice.
Rj Trapp.

Building an amp from scratch with DSP, need input

TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL — Mon, 30 Apr 2012 21:26:00 GMT

Ok, so I've talked to some of the socal people about this before, and its time to get some input. I was seriously contemplating making a seperate sn for this, but oh well.

My dad is in the process of designing an amplifier from scratch. The amp is a microprocessor controlled class d amp. The amp will have DSP capabilities built in, although how much is still being worked out. He says it will definately be able to do time alignment, phase adjustment, and EQ. I will try to get more info on the exact capabilities, but the more responses I get in this thread, the more concrete info I can get from him.

I'm really only looking for suggestions as to what people would like to see in an amp like this, as he has asked me what it would take to sell something like this. So I'd like to get some people to comment on things like how many channels, how much power per channel, price willing to pay for something that could be used without an external processor, etc. Asthetics and similar things arent an issue right now, just capabilities. I know that he is currently looking into making this a modular setup, so that channels could be added easily.

For my personal use, I need 8 channels. I would personally want incremented phase adjustment, time alignment, and parametric eq per channel, with user adjustable center points and Q for each eq point, and as many eq points as possible per channel.

Since this will probably be asked....
My dad has a masters in physics. He has been designing power supplies for more than 25 years now, for everyone from Honeywell to military apps, thats as far into that as I'm going to go. This started with him not wanting to buy an amp for the speaker upgrage and subwoofer in his truck out of a feeling that he could build something better, and slowly grew into more as he looked further into it.

Acura/Bose OEM Intergration Problem

slowsedan01 — Mon, 30 Apr 2012 18:04:39 GMT

All,

I am really at my wits end. There's not a lot of information to go off of relating to KA9 RL's. Here's my problem, I am tapping the OEM HU leads before they go into my OEM Amp. In the '04 RL w/ Bose, the HU puts out a flat four channel differential balanced signal. Essentially, I spliced RCA leads onto the +/- of the front L&R outputs of the OEM source, and then I am running it into an Audiocontrol Overdrive. The Overdrive accepts the differential balanced signal just fine, w/o any noise and outputs a non-balanced signal.

My problem is that the balance is way out of whack. The output on my driver side is easily 2-3x louder than the passenger side. I have triple checked all my my splices and RCA connections, they are all solid. Yesterday I noticed a large wire which I believe is the sheild ground coming from the OEM source/harness. I dont have this connected to anything at the moment. Do you guys think that not having this sheild grounded is causing my balance issue? Should this be grounded, connected to the neg side of the rca connection, or somplace else all together?

I am really out of ideas at this point and will give any and all suggestions a shot.

Line Level High Pass Filter?

hilander999 — Mon, 30 Apr 2012 14:27:28 GMT

I'm using an Alpine PXE-H660 with 4v outputs, and have built a special RCA interconnect for ambient rear fill and love the way it sounds with one small objection.

This method cuts out all common signals of equal intensity between left and right channels, which is most vocals and is the whole reason for ambient rear fill. The only downside is that most bass frequencies are also mono and present in both channels so using this technique also removes all the bass.

Most lower bass frequencies are non directional and will not harm the front stage when used at a slightly lower volume level, so I want to add this back into the rear fill channel by using a line level high pass filter on one side of the input signal.

This will remove the lower bass frequencies from one side which in turn will allow the same results (remove vocals) without removing all bass at the same time.

I saw these a while back...
FMOD Crossover Pair 150 Hz High Pass 266-276

and they seem to be what I need for this hack, but I really don't have room at the RCA connection for that much added length, I only need one, and they are a bit pricey since there really can't be much inside the barrel.
I also don't know if they are using both sides of the connection to achieve the filter effect, and I am only using the + side of both left and right for my rear channel.

Does anyone know what I can splice in-line to one side of the patch cable to get the same results as the FMOD?

I'm guessing its just a resistor or tiny cap, which would make what I need cheap and simple, but without buying a pair and hacking one up I really don't know.

What I need is to cut frequencies at about 120HZ on a 4v line level output, so if anyone has the answer I would be grateful.

Can a notch filter mimic aperiodic (reduce impedance @Fsc)???

pionkej — Mon, 30 Apr 2012 14:11:32 GMT

I was doing some digging on aperiodic setups for my midbass and came across a thread that mentioned notch filters. It stated they can do the same thing to the impedance spike without having the early roll-off aperiodic enclosures have. To me, that means you can use a narrow notch filter to reduce the system resonance and phase shift that occur at Fsc.

In the thread, it shared this single point and then said aperiodic was easier than building a passive notch filter, so the discussion stopped. With all the active processors available for car audio (and some that have notch filter options), I thought this might be worth discussing.

In my setup, my dash mounted midbass have an Fsc around 72hz. To me, that means that I: need to cross above 72hz, build an aperiodic system, or...use a notch filter (if this method is valid). I don't really care to cross much below 72hz, but it's recommended to cross 2x above Fsc (144hz) which I would prefer to not do with a 6.5" midbass. So options 2 & 3 are sounding much better.

Now, if this method will work, I've been trying to figure out the best way to test it. I have a wt3, but you can't use it when anything else is in-line with the speaker. Since my filter will come before the amps, I can't use the wt3. I also have an omni-mic, so my idea was: run the wt3 on the speaker alone, note the impedance rise point, check phase/fr on the omni-mic with the speaker running full-range, apply a notch filter, run the omni-mic again to see if the phase flattened at Fsc, adjust and repeat as needed.

Any other/better ideas on how to do this?

If you have the processing power but not the testing equipment, you could always model the driver (in the enclosure) with software and adjust till it sounds better. It's a much less accurate method, but it may be worth trying. FWIW, when I have an accurate estimate on my enclosure volume, both unibox and winisd plot impedance pretty close to what I measure with my woofer tester.

alpine W407 w/ h100, my tweeters wont cross lower than 1khz???

Hondakilla98 — Mon, 30 Apr 2012 08:12:12 GMT

I have an 03 town car with an alpine iXA-W407 deck and PXA-H100 eq. I was messing with my crossover settings since I plan on changing my front stage. I've read about other people with the same eq running as low as 650hz. I'm currently running it so I have independent control of all six channels. Low passing my subs, bandpassing my mids and high passing my tweeters. I want to eventually swap my hds 6.5's for sls 6.5's and my hds tweeters for some fountek fr88ex's or similar 3" full range to run as my 2 way active front stage. If anyone has some insight on this I'd appreciate it. I'll double check which position the switch on the h100 is on and post that up.

Here's how it's wired. 407 ai net cable to h100, from the h100 there are three pairs of RCA's running back to my amps, 1500d running 2 sa10's, dsc-4125 one channel per speaker in the front.

If anyone has sls 6.5's, fountek fr88ex's, or tang band W3 -1364's pm me.

Old school Zapco experts whats up with my Z600??

pillclinton209 — Mon, 30 Apr 2012 02:08:34 GMT

Hello long time lurker just getting back to car audio, any how I have a problem with a ZAPCO Z600 I just got from a co worker. I am testing amp out for another project but I am getting very low output I have it running to 4 8" subs does not get loud at all but plays clear clean but very low output compared to the Z300 I have in the car. I also tested my Z300csl2 the Z600 lil brother was way louder all hooked up exactly the same 2ohm mono load any info would be appreciated. This amp should be putting out close to 900 watts at that ohm load I would guess im getting 200 max subs barely moving.

Please help with tuning...

YellowC4S — Mon, 30 Apr 2012 01:51:46 GMT

I have searched and read and I'm still confused.

I'm working on a 2012 Volkswagen GTI Autobahn. I am factory HU F/R line out to an Audison BitOne which feeds a Zuki Eleets 4ch front and a Zuki Class D 5ch rear and sub. The factory Dynaudio amp/DSP is bypassed. Speakers are Hertz MLK2 TW front and rear and sub is RE Audio SX 104. I have one tablet PC running the BitOne software and a laptop running TruRTA 1/3 octave software. I am using the mic that came with my Denon AVP-A1HDCI(A) which is similar to the mic that came with Alpine's Imprint. I have tried several times to tune the car but it's been years since I've done this and I really don't know what I'm doing. The last car I ever tuned was using Audio Control EQT's.

Using the BitOne software I have the front tweets hi-passed @ 1500hz. I have the woofers band-passed 60-2000hz. I have the rear tweets band-passed @ 1500-7000hz and the rear woofers band-passed @ 60-2000hz. All of this is using Butterworth filtering @ 12db and all of the drivers are running active. I have the sub low-passed at somewhere around 100hz. The sub does not run through the BitOne.

I have been trying to tune using the pink noise test tones on the BitOne CD and I have searched and tried to follow the directions but maybe the directions are just not clear to me. I want to set everything flat and then change whatever I'm going to change using the Treble/Midrange/Bass control of the factory HU.

You wonderful people have been very patient with me and have gotten me this far with components I never would have thought of. Please help me get past this one last hurdle and I will be eternally grateful.

Kevin

Car won't start after Clifford alarm install

Karma88 — Mon, 30 Apr 2012 01:38:11 GMT

Just finished a Clifford alarm today in a 2009 Toyota Yaris. The install went very smooth, all wires from directechs matched up to the wires in the car. Once the car was pulled out, the power steering stopped working and the ABS, tire pressure, check engine and power steering lights popped up on the dash. I check all my fuses and the ECM fuse under the dash was blown (not sure how it blew). I disconnected the negative battery terminal and changed the 10 amp fuse with a spare 10 amp fuse from the car and now the car won't go past ignition. One thing I did notice was the car had 2 starter wires but directechs said they were a common starter wire and they went into the same pin assignment on the ignition switch so I don't see that as a problem.

What could have gone wrong? The install went very smooth with zero problems, so this is very puzzling to me. Any suggestions will be appreciated.

Edit: After finding my ignition and constant 12v wire, I started the car to test my starter wire. After testing the starter wire, I killed the car and pulled the key out of the ignition and the car continued to run. I'm not sure why it would do that since the ground on my alarm wasn't even stripped.

WTK: TA and passive set up?

nervewrecker — Sun, 29 Apr 2012 19:30:48 GMT

Got a CDT Audio EU-61CV 6.5" set up front with the tweets on the dash and mid woofers in the doors, all set up with the passives powered from a Rockford Fosgate R300-4 (a pair of bridged channels powers each set).

Head unit is a Pioneer 80prs and I want to use the TA feature from it. Can I do so with the current setup up front as is or do I need to go active?

Thanks.

Alpine 7990 PSU as 9965 PSU

BNK — Sun, 29 Apr 2012 14:55:44 GMT

Can the 7990 PSU be used for the 9965?

reconing options for brahma 12d4 mkiv

jw408 — Sun, 29 Apr 2012 06:33:04 GMT

Ok, earlier in my car audio escapades I didn't own an osilloscope, nor did I know how to properly set gains.

So, I've got a Brahma 12d4 mkiv in a Subtomix (cylindrical tube like a drum) .75 cu ft enclosure with one side having broken tinsel lead and probably some voice coil rub.

I've watched a number of reconing videos on youtube and it seems like I could handle reconing-- the big deal is getting the parts and the proper glue. Since Adire is long gone, anyone have any options? I don't want to compromise the parameters of this sub, if I need to I'll get a new sub and enclosure, rather than end up with something bad.

System:

2005 Jaguar S-type R
Factory head unit -> Rockford Fosgate 3sixty.2 ->
Zed Draconia w/Burr Brown upgrade feeding Morel Hybrid Ovations ACTIVE
Hifonics 2006d -> Brahma 12D4

I've tried to contact Fi, but haven't heard back ( the mk iv has a 2.5" voice coil vs the 3" for the mark II)

my big box store, and most local installers, look at me blankly when I ask about reconing or preserving a flat BL curve.

Little bit of Alternator whine driving me crazy!

colts95ta — Sun, 29 Apr 2012 03:36:55 GMT

I've got a 07 corvette Z06. I've been hunting the noise down for some time now. It is not that bad but bothering me. I can unplug the RCA's and its still there. I'm sure that it is a ground loop somewhere. Please give any advice. Thanks in advance

The battery is in the rear of the car. The head unit is grounded where the amps are. I have two distribution blocks(+&-) that both run straight off the battery through some 0 awg stinger wire. I have not changed the charge wire due to its length. but I can unhook the charge wire and it goes away. I also have tried to run a 8awg ground wire to the alternator case from the (-) battery post. I am running some focal 3 ways passive and the crossovers are mounted under the foot wells.

Set-up is:
Kenwood DNX9980
IXOS RCA'S( middle of the road)
IXOS speaker cable with the die electric woven in.
Focal symmetric amps
Focal 3 ways
Focal Sub
All speaker wires and RCA'S are ran out of the way of power/ground cabling.

I am sure there is something that I am overlooking. Please give me some new ideas to check. Thanks

passive radiator "rules"

King Nothing — Sun, 29 Apr 2012 00:21:48 GMT

I will be having a boston SPG555 sub and passive radiator coming to me next week. The only way for me to install these where I want them is for the sub and the radiator to both be downfiring. Ive read that you arent "supposed" to mount the radiator horizontally but what happens if you do? The radiator has 3 possible tuning frequencies, 30, 35, and 45. What frequency would be the best for a daily setup? How much space should there be in front of the radiator before any obstructions? Would 3 inches of clearance be enough? Would i be correct in assuming I will need to use a subsonic filter on this?

Focal 33kx to invert or not to invert, this is the question.

oilman — Sat, 28 Apr 2012 14:49:49 GMT

I've made my box to accommodate the Focal inverted in a wedge style design. However, for the time being the hole is cut small and the sub is in the box until I get more information. I've read on the Focal web page not to invert the sub. Does Focal say this because people generally don't know what they are doing when inverting a sub? Does it alter the SQ? Is it mechanically bad for the sub? Has anyone done this with good results? Building a wedge box is a pain in the ass for me and once I cut out the hole to go inverted there is no going back without building a new box. SQ takes precedence over looks but if I can achieve both I'll do it.

Thanks

choosing between micro amps

eviling — Sat, 28 Apr 2012 12:08:24 GMT

alrighht, so i decided to just keep the same micro format setup and i have pending sale on my ZED amp's and ive run alpine PDX amps for years. i also like the JL HD micro amps. i understand the HD's are slightly better? or so i'm told but i do not know. but right now im more between these two brands, and differing setups.

so it could be

JL HD 600\4
Jl HD 600\4
JL HD 750\1

OR

PDX F6
PDX F4
PDX M12 (1200 watt rms)

OR

PDX F6
PDX V9 (5 channel 100x4 + 500x1)

so, the speaker power doesn't change in any of these setups except between JL and Alpine but that really don't matter as the only driver really using that power is the hybrid L8, which will in ANY of these setups get plenty of power. possibly even bridging the F6 if i really wanna push em :rolleyes: ive heard of people pushing 300 into them, but i would never push that at full gains. i imagine bad things happen haha. but I will be running a single FI IB18 18" IB sub. which is 4 ohm and only wants 500, with the V9, i'll be under that curten, but i'll have no overhead, so if i'm not happy with my output i end up ass out. the thing is, i only have 1200$ to put towrds it all, with the alpine setups i can easily afford that from the profits of the sale of my ZED amp's but which setup should i get? should i get the overhead or should i save the 370$ and only have to deal with 2 amps XD choices, choices and more choices.

I'm also interested in the SQ difference. processing is still yet to be chosen, i was waiting for the RF 3sixty.3...but yeah, probobly the Helix unit, maybe the ps8, or possibly even the H800, but what are the differences between the JL HD and the PDX lineupset sound quality wise.

Can anyone help with DLS and Focal components??

hough73 — Fri, 27 Apr 2012 21:45:42 GMT

Hi im not sure if iv come across a bargain or something i should avoid, but iv seen a set of used DLS iridium 6.2 (not the 6.2i) components for sale but it has a set of focal k2 tweeter not the proper dls ir1 tweeters, the set is going for �100, should i avoid buying these or is it worth taking a risk????

Why does hooking up my amps make my supply voltage drop?

bird333 — Fri, 27 Apr 2012 18:07:19 GMT

Car: '96 Honda Accord
Amps: Posted Image: JL 1000/1 and JL 300/4
Wiring: Big 3 done. Kicker Hyperflex 1/0 running to distro 4 gauge Kicker to amps Posted Image
Battery Posted Image: Sears Die Hard Platinum (supposed to be the same as Odyssey and Stinger)
Alt: DC Power 180amp
Mod done to keep alt in 'high output' mode (ELD workaround)

This is a continuation of this thread
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...ar-cursed.html

My amps have been shutting off due to low voltage. I have taken several measurements. Voltage at the distro block without the amps attached is 14.1v, the same voltage as the battery. With one amp attached the voltage dropped to 13.8v. With both amps attached the voltage was 13.4v. Yesterday, I just took a quick measurement at the 300/4 amp, voltage was at 12.27v. All measurements were taken with the radio on but not playing, so there was no load on the amps. What could be causing this?

Dual voice coil options?

SDB777 — Fri, 27 Apr 2012 11:55:08 GMT

Is there any benefit to getting a pair of dual voice coil subs that are 4ohm vs. 2ohm?

I'm only wanting to run a 2ohm load at the amp, nothing more.

Scott (series/parallel thinking) B

Calling all TRU billet owners...OP amp question

darrenforeal — Fri, 27 Apr 2012 03:06:56 GMT

I have a question for those who have or had TRU billets and upgraded the OP amps.

I have a super billet 6 Stage III with BB26 OP amps. I really love this amp, but I am always looking for more:D I have talked with some people who have said they have heard the billets with different OP amps, and said it does indeed change the tonality. But some also said this may be something that can also be achieved via a 31 band eq. None said, it makes the amp better, just sounds different.

I want the amp to give me the least colored tonality, with the most accurate reproduction of the source signal i.e. think MECA and IASCA judging. So I am considering upgrading to BB62 OP amps for channels 1-4 on my amp and line driver. These supposedly offer the most neutral and accurate sound (also the most expensive). And then I was going to do channels 5 and 6 on the amp and line driver to NL49, which apparently offer fast and accurate midbass.

The BB26 OP amps I have are described as, "full and 'FAT' sounding midbass/bass, and sweet non fatiguing top end sound."

The NL49s for the midbass that I may upgrade to are described as, "higher resolution than the BB26 with lively sound, and faster midbass/bass output."

And the bb62s for the mids and highs are described as, "Very neutral natural sound, smooth, effortless and transparent top-end, full bass sound, excellent imaging."

So all that said, is it worth upgrading based upon what I want?

Mb Quart + Infinite Baffle?

Roadmaster11 — Thu, 26 Apr 2012 19:35:02 GMT

Will these RWE 8's work for infinite baffle

QMS: 6.5
QES: 0.631
QTS: 0.575
Fs: 37
Vas: 30.9

Don't have Xmax spec.

Or would Lanzar max st 8's work?

Splitting signal before DSP

m R g S r — Thu, 26 Apr 2012 15:59:05 GMT

Can I split the 2V signal coming from my HU before it goes to the MiniDSP without a noticeable drop in sound quality?

I just want to split the signal to run the flexible high and low pass crossovers on my 500/1 then run actively my 300/4 through the MiniDSP

There should just be an current drop not a voltage drop by doing the split before the DSP correct?

I don't want to buy another DSP just to control my subs...for now at least.

Audison AV 5.1k \ bit Ten D Sub question

tampa mike — Thu, 26 Apr 2012 13:45:08 GMT

Hello all,
I am considering doing a dual 5.1k configuration in my new install and plan to use the bit Ten D's ability to control the amps digitally to eliminate interference and improve the bit Ten's control. The question I have pertains to a capability that the AV 5.1k amplifier has out of the box with RCA inputs that I don't see replicated in the digital interface (or maybe I'm missing it; I haven't purchased them yet).

The 5.1k will let you sum the channels and put them through a low-pass filter to get your sub bass. Since the bit Ten D can only handle 8 channels (and I plan to run the tweeters on the class A channel and the mids on the A\B channel) I end up with 10 total channels. What I would like to do is sum the channels for the class D channel and use that for my subs, however it looks like (from the instructions) you replace the panel that does that on the amplifier and I don't see any other way to do that. Is this feature still available when you replace that panel?

SQ Demonstration CD's (Torrent files)

malestrom — Thu, 26 Apr 2012 11:05:14 GMT

Well,I thought I'd share some various demonstration CD's for some SQ setups.Just click on the title (magnet link) and it will be automatically be added to your torrent client.

Since I have PM'd some moderators and haven't got a reply yet,if this does not abide by the forum rules,please delete.

Use Imgburn (freeware) to make audible CD's

Thanks.

Audiophile from FOCAL JMlab - The Spirit Of Sound 1996-2009 8CDs

.flac | .cue | most covers

Focal JMlab CD No 1 (1996)

01. Sweet sixteen - Junior Wells
02. Wishing well - Michael Ruff
03. Tears for Eric - Harvey Mandel
04. Naima - Thom Rotella
05.. Amuseum - James Nowton Howard
06. Improvisation - Ron Tutt
07. Dock of the bay - Lincoln Mayorga
08. Sweet Georgia Brown - Harry James
09. Bold Nelson/ Eddystone Light - Luxon & Crofut
10. Fever - Jeannie Bryson
11. Spanish Harlem - Rebecca Pidgeon
12. Grandma's hands - Livingston Taylor
13. Pink panther - Henry Mancini
14. Requim Dies Irae - Guiseppe Verdi
15. La Donna E Mobile - Guiseppe Verdi
16. Flute Concerto in D - Antonio Vivaldi

Focal JMlab CD No 2 (1997)

01. Left and right channels test
02. Pink noise: Ref. -14dB Fs
03. Front channels polarity test
04. Single cylinder moto engine
05. Muffeled
06. Sourdo
07. Walking cello
08. Setting interference test: digital silence 0 bits
09. 1kHz ref.: 14dB Fs
10. 20Hz
11. 25Hz
12. 31,5Hz
13. 40Hz
14. 50Hz
15. 63Hz
16. 80Hz
17. 100Hz
18. 125Hz
19. 160Hz
20. 200Hz
21. 250Hz
22. 315Hz
23. 400Hz
24. 500Hz
25. 630Hz
26. 800Hz
27. 1kHz

Focal JMlab CD No 3 (1998)

01. Junior Wells - "Use Me"
02. Liningston Taylor - "Isn't She Lovely"
03. Friend 'n Fellow - "One More Day"
04. Rebecca Pigeon - "Grandmother"
05. Robert Hohner Percussion Ensemble - "La Bamba"
06. James Newton Howard - "She"
07. Thom Rotella Band - "Patty Cake"
08. McCoy Tyner - "Miss Bea"
09. Johny Frigo - "Stompin' at Savoy"
10. Carlos Heredia - "De Volao - Bulerias"
11. Jim Ketner - "Improvisation"
12. Carl Orff Introduction - "Fortune"
13. Vaclav Nelhybel - "Tritico"
14. Igor Stravinski - "The Soldier's March"
15. Antonio Vivaldi - "The Four Seasons - Summer"
16. Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart - "Concerto No.21 - Andante"

Focal JMlab CD No 4 (1999)

01. Terry Callier - "C'est la vie"
02. Joe Jackson - "Chacha loco"
03. Bernardo Lavilliers - "Romeo Machado"
04. Sergio Mendes & Brazil 66 - "For What It's Worth"
05. Pooka - "The Insect"
06. Horsepower - "Brimstone Rock"
07. Alain Bashung - "La nuit de mens"
08. Lucky Peterson - "Who's Been Talking"
09. John Scofeld "Ago go"
10. Dee Dee Bridgewater - "Killing Me Softly"
11. Pierpolajak - "Je sais pas jouer"
12. Black Uhuru - "Chill Out"
13. Charly Antolini - "Endless"
14. Cyrill Lutzelschwab/Martin Hess - "Boxenkiller"
15. Yello - "Resistor"

Focal JMlab CD No 5 (2002)

01. Everything must Change
02. Raoui
03. Dat Dere
04. Trois petits points
05. The ghetto
06. I've seen that face before (Libertango)
07. Dick Tracy
08. M.P. on the run
09. Who
10. Get me home
11. The day
12. Fast Lane
13. Like a prayer
14. Real fonky time
15. Ready (Radio Edit)
16. Jano Iapin

Focal JMlab CD No 6 (2005)

01. One Evening - Feist
02. Melody - Molly Johnson
03. Flowers Never Die - Emile Simon
04. Hold On - J.J. Cale
05. I want you - Marvin Gaye
06. The Boy who stole the blues - Mighty Mo Rodgers
07. Hardgroove - Roy Hargrove
08. Spanish grease - Willie Bobo
09. Madan - Salif Keita
10. Someday - Martin Solveig
11. Never thought I would - Audun kleive
12. Satisfaction - Benny Benassi
13. Mumbai Theme - A.R. Rahman
14. You look good to me - Oscar Peterson Trio
15. Nite mist blues - Monty Alexander Trio

Focal JMlab CD No 7 (2008)

01. Ayo - Down On My Knees
02. Shiley Horn - If You Go
03. Sergio Mendes & Brasil 66 - For What It's Worth (Shantel Remix)
04. Erykah Badu - On & On
05. Shay Mane - 4 Women
06. Yoshiko Kishino - Siesta
07. Mamani Keita - Djama Nyemao
08. Christian Mcbride - Night Train
09. Yuri Buenaventura - Ne Me Quitte Pas
10. Kem - Heaven
11. Pills - Free Step
12. Lamb - Gabriel
13. Fede Le Grand - Put Your Hands Up For Detroit
14. Godsmack - Straight Out Of Line
15. Anthrax - Keep It In The Family

Focal JMlab CD No 8 (2009)

01. Liane Foly - Au Fur Et A Mesure [00:03:55]
02. Stacey Kent - The Ice Hotel [00:05:28]
03. Lila Downs - Dignificada [00:03:46]
04. Rachelle Ferrell - Sista [00:03:57]
05. M - Onde Sensuelle [00:03:06]
06. Raul Midon - State Of Mind [00:03:25]
07. Charlie Hunter & Leon Parker - Mean Streak [00:04:53]
08. Erik Truffaz - Arkhangelsk [00:03:39]
09. Talk Talk - Happiness Is Easy 12 Mix [00:07:03]
10. Larusso - Tu M'Oublieras [00:03:41]
11. David Guetta, Joachim Garraud & Chris Willis - Love Is Gone [00:03:23]
12. Monte Carlo Philharmonic Orchestra - Les Contes D'HofTmann Act II Chanson [00:05:22]
13. State Academic Mariinsky Theater Choir St. Petersburg - Prince Igor Polovstian Dances No. 4 [00:02:09]
14. Michael Schenker Group - Cozy Powell Drum Solo [00:11:26]
15. Deep Purple - Smoke On The Water [00:05:39]

<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

McIntosh Audiophile Test Reference {Digital Mastering}

LIST:

01. Stravinsky:
The Firebird Suite-Infernal Dance
(excerpt)

02. Starker Plays Kodaly:
Duo for Violin and Cello,Op.7-Allegro serioso,non troppo
(Recorded in Japan 1978)

03. Dvorak:
Symphony No.9 in E Minor,Op.95,from the New World-Allegro con fuoco

04. Bizet-Shchedrin:
The Carmen Ballet-ix.Torero

05. Voices of Angels:
Vos Flores Rosarum

06. AARON COPLAND:
Billy the Kid(suite from the ballet) -Gun Battle

07. Vivaldi:
Four Seasons-Concerto in E major,RV 269 "Spring" I.Allegro

08. Piazzolla:
Libertango(Tangos arranged for saxophone and orchestra)

09. Beethoven:
Adagio Cantabile from Sonata Op.13(Pathetique)

10. Music of Berlioz:
Symphonie Fantastique,Op.14 Marche au Supplice(March to the Scaffold):Allegretto non troppo

11. MACAL conducts GLIERE:
The Red Poppy,Ballet Suite,Op.70-Heroic Coolie Dance

12. MACAL conducts GLIERE:
The Red Poppy,Ballet Suite,Op.70-Chinese Dance

13. Tchaikovsky:
Serenade for Strings,Op.48,ll,Walzer

14. Shostakovich:
Symphony No.10 in E Minor,Opus 93 ll,Allegro

15. AARON COPLAND:
The Red Pony-Happy Ending

Total: 60:39

Help with Alpine pxa-h900 conection

rycka — Thu, 26 Apr 2012 08:26:47 GMT

Hello. First - sorry for my english :) Second - i have some problems with connection off Pxa-H900 DSP. I want connect my original HU to this processor.
SO i have original HU, H900, Alpine CD changer 624 with digital output, and CD changer controller CRA-1656 SP with hi-inputs. So i connect my setup in this way: Optical cable and ainet cable (to Changer In) from changer to H900. Controller via Ainet to h900 analog input. So when i change Controller mode to EXTERNAL (Original HU mode) There is no sound. CD Changer works perfect. Strange but i cant change Inputs and cant operate volume on H900 screen. Maby somme knows where can be problem? Thanks

Bypass System Amp+ 3 way cross or JL Cleansweep?

Inigma — Thu, 26 Apr 2012 04:30:06 GMT

Hi,

I'm almost done installing a set of fountek 3" fr89-ex's and Peerless sls 8" in my car. It has a bose sound processor/amp from the factory. I'm currently using a pac aoem-vet1 harness to get two sets of rca's out to a four channel amp, but I can currently only high pass at 120 and low pass at 80, but I want to high pass higher and low pass higher.

So what do you think? I can bypass the bose processor and add a 3way crossover incase I add a sub or just use the clean sweep and set the amp channels to pass through?

I want to retain the stock head unit and keep everything looking stock.

Opinions on the following graphs please!

eyeballeater — Thu, 26 Apr 2012 03:08:25 GMT

Looking at the graphs, is the RE Audio SRX10D4 better off sealed or ported. I'm new at this kinda stuff. Thinking I'm better off ported. Its based on 40Hz tuning.....or should I go higher/lower? Main listening is hip hop, modern pop, dance music

Design 1 is sealed and 2 is ported

Suggestions?

Metra Axxess ASWC help

bigaudiofanatic — Thu, 26 Apr 2012 00:40:16 GMT

Just installed a ASWC and a Kenwood KDC-HD548U in a 99 jimmy non bose.

I had to do a manual program and manual selection to kenwood. "kept coming up as JVC" I know that one way to fix it for auto programming is to add a resistor.

However I just did it manually.

Both times I have programmed it, at random times during driving the volume will go down 3 notches or more.

Any thought as to what may cause this?

Eclipse cd8053 + Balanced Line Adapter = Hissss

Dean — Wed, 25 Apr 2012 21:20:01 GMT

I recently (finally) installed the following system in my car:

Eclipse CD8053
Stinger SI4620 Interconnect cables
Eclipse 37601 Balanced Line Adapter (BLA)
Cadence ZRS-C8 5 CH Amp
CDT EF 51 Neo 5.25" comps (Similar to the EU series linked)
CDT CL-69 6x9 woofers
Sundown Audio SA-10 D4 Sub Woofer

I have verified the cable hookup, and I even tried a second BLA, but something is still wrong. Running through the BLA and setting the HU in PRO mode, there is a constant hiss even at the lowest volume setting, many frequencies are not produced by the speakers, and it seems no sound comes from the sub woofer at all! If I bypass the BLA and hook it up with only the 6 relevant "+" cables (and in Normal mode rather than PRO), it sounds just fine. I tried the corresponding "-" cables on their own with the same results, so apparently there is signal coming from all twelve HU outputs.

What am I missing, either in the hook up or the setup? What else is there to check? I read in another thread about ensuring the cables are the correct type. I *believe* I have the correct cables, but maybe not?

Hopefully someone here has some experience with the Eclipse CD8053/BLA or similar setup and has come across something like this.

Thanks in advance,

FIrst IB attempt, JL12w6, suggestions?

phampau — Wed, 25 Apr 2012 19:06:47 GMT

So after reading for the past few months, I have decided to do an IB install using the rear deck of my E55. I had a jl12w6 and upon research, i believe someone posted that it was fairly good used in IB setup even though the specs don't suggest it.

Here are some basics on what was done:
1. Vehicle is a mercedes E55, with no ski pass through or fold down seats. There is a thin sheet metal that separates the trunk from the cabin area. I sealed any holes that were on the sheet metal with stinger roadkill (cld).
2. The rear deck of the vehicle had a factory 10" sub so that was removed, the orginal hole was enlarged to the size of the 12w6 cone area. Top of deck was layered with roadkill and a think layer of ensolite. Bottom of rear deck was layered with roadkill and ensolite. 3/4 mdf baffle was made and bolted to bottom of rear deck with a total of 8 bolts/nuts. It's pretty sturdy, but not sure if double baffle will make any difference.
3. JL 12w6 was mounted to the bottom of the baffle board with weather stripping foam between subwoofer and board to seal any leaks.
4. The subwoofer is being driven by 400 watts rms boston acoustic amp. Subsonic is set to 28-30 hz.

Here are some thoughts on the sound. Keep in mind I am used to sealed/ported sound so this is new to me.
1. The lower bass frequency (30-40 hertz sounds/feels great. I have very clean low bass (better than any ported/sealed box) i've had in the past. The mid/upper bass (40-60 hz) seems to be lacking quite a bit. It doesn't sound "deep" or the bass doesn't seem to have depth if that makes any sense. The easy way for me to describe it is the mid/upper bass seems to sound like a sealed box with not enough air space.
2. When I roll down the windows or open the door, the bass gets a little "deeper/louder" but not quite where I want it.
3. When I try to increase the level at the particular frequencies with the built in eq of the deck, it basically gets distorted and the subwoofer is being "over extended"
4. Maybe I am just expecting too much out of the 12w6, but if this sub was in a ported enclosure built to spec, that would satisfy my bass requirements.

I am looking for suggestions on how to "fix" my quest for clean low/tight/deep/ bass. I have 400 watts RMS to work with on a sub. I'm thinking of trying the Boston G3 12" subwoofer which says it's free-air compatible. Will that make any difference? Go up in size to a 15" sub, but do i have enough power to push it?
I will install my hertz 165xl front stage this weekend and after that, will try to tweak it a bit to see if i can get it more to my liking. My ultimate goal is a system that will be a mesh between sq and sql.

I know it's not the most detailed post, but if you need any more information, please ask and I will answer. Thanks for any help or suggestions you may have. Paul

Rear deck baffle with sub mounted

Closer look at baffle, the bolts were originally bolted from the top, but it hit my rear sunshade motor so i had to flip them around. It will have to do for now.

Inside view of subwoofer from rear deck cover. The baffle is sealed against the rear deck opening, the sub surround is not hitting anything as the pictures might suggest

5 channel boston amp I am working with