I have not had very good luck using the gorilla glue. I have had great luck using titebond and a pneumatic staple gun.
As for your question, I use window silicon (as mentioned) but I let it cure for a couple days. I also coat all my boxes in that bedliner stuff. It's cheap, easy, and provides a good seal.
I find it hard to believe that fully cured LN would just blow out or not hold up. If anyone has ever tried to rip up a subfloor in a room in your house, that was glued down with Liquid Nail, you will know why Im so skeptical. You usually rip the wood apart before the glue lets go.. Its tough stuff!
Then again, if you have a perfect fitting box, titebond is the way to go forsure. I myself, prefer to use LN. I cant say either way is the "wrong" way though.
Regardless, sealing the edges with any sort of adhesive will be fine. Silicone, caulk, LN. Whatever you have around.
I find it hard to believe that fully cured LN would just blow out or not hold up. If anyone has ever tried to rip up a subfloor in a room in your house, that was glued down with Liquid Nail, you will know why Im so skeptical. You usually rip the wood apart before the glue lets go.. Its tough stuff!
Then again, if you have a perfect fitting box, titebond is the way to go forsure. I myself, prefer to use LN. I cant say either way is the "wrong" way though.
Regardless, sealing the edges with any sort of adhesive will be fine. Silicone, caulk, LN. Whatever you have around.
Fully cured is the key. The boxes that had fires/explosions were put into use while the Liquid Nail was still curing and putting off flammable fumes.
I prefer Titebond myself and then some silicone on the insides.
A little OT and this may be a wives tale, but I was told (by a master MECP cert installer) that in his early days of installing he built an SPL truck and sealed the box w/liquid nails... he didn't give the product enough time to fully cure... he installed the woofers, cranked it up and BOOM! The box exploded, sending chunks of MDF through his tonneau cover...
I could see this happening... maybe... but haven't wittnessed it first hand...
Anybody heard of this?
I'm pretty sure the fumes triggered it to explode, but it was more then likely user error since he/she didn't et it cure. Silicone has a very strong odor. I sealed up every crack I can get to just to prevent any air leaks.
Humph umph tsk tsk hump umph tsk
Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkZ
It's not Tchaikovsky. But it's still music that people like and that people want to listen to. Therefore, the goal is to meet that demand. When you let your audio system dictate the music you listen to, you've lost.
I am in the process of making my first MDF sub enclosure and I used a bead of RTV Black in the interior edges and any visible gaps in the seams on the exterior. I do a lot of ATV work and use RTV Black on everything where a water tight seal is needed because we take them in up to 6 ft of water or so pretty regularly. It's always worked wonderfully and it doesn't have the typical silicone odor.
I am in the process of making my first MDF sub enclosure and I used a bead of RTV Black in the interior edges and any visible gaps in the seams on the exterior. I do a lot of ATV work and use RTV Black on everything where a water tight seal is needed because we take them in up to 6 ft of water or so pretty regularly. It's always worked wonderfully and it doesn't have the typical silicone odor.
What brand and type is your silicone? I am assking because RTV is not a type, it is just stating that the silicone is a Room Temperature Vulcanizing typre of silicone. I believe most if silicone is RTV.
I prefer Momentive 100 series for water tight sealing/adhesive. 103 is the black iirc.
This would work in boxes but seams overkill as it is strong enough to hold together very large aquariums. For boxes the regular window and door types work well and tend to be easier to get.
What brand and type is your silicone? I am assking because RTV is not a type, it is just stating that the silicone is a Room Temperature Vulcanizing typre of silicone. I believe most if silicone is RTV.
I prefer Momentive 100 series for water tight sealing/adhesive. 103 is the black iirc.
This would work in boxes but seams overkill as it is strong enough to hold together very large aquariums. For boxes the regular window and door types work well and tend to be easier to get.
I use Permatex 598B Ultra Black Hi-Temp Gasket Maker. The part number is PX#82180. I usually pick it up at O'Reilly's for $5 a tube or so and it may be over kill but since I already have it around the garage all of the time it worked out perfect. We use this to seal everything from belt housings to make speaker enclosures water tight because it is not uncommon at all for us to fully submerge our systems on the bikes on a regular basis.
I use Permatex 598B Ultra Black Hi-Temp Gasket Maker. The part number is PX#82180. I usually pick it up at O'Reilly's for $5 a tube or so and it may be over kill but since I already have it around the garage all of the time it worked out perfect. We use this to seal everything from belt housings to make speaker enclosures water tight because it is not uncommon at all for us to fully submerge our systems on the bikes on a regular basis.
I am sure that stuff should be fine for a box but price is expensive vs qty of product so if you ever don't have extra laying around I would suggest going the regular window and door silicone route insted. Again that is if you HAD to buy a tube for the box.
When sub is punching, it does generate pressure.....
Not exactly sure who or to what you are stating this for but in the case of what silicone to use to seal the inside joints of the box, pressure is not a concern. The silicone is not being used to hold the panels together. It is just there to make sure you have no air leaks do to openings between the panels. The silicone just needs to adhear to both panels and fill in or cover the opening.
I usually cut my boards perfectly straight so that the mate up flush then I use a heavy bead of wood glue and screw the boards together pushing glue out both sides of the joint. Then I run my finger down the joint on both sides and leave behind a bead of glue in the inner corner of the joint. On the outside it fills in any tiny gaps that might be there. This usually results in a air tight seal already reducing the need for silicone.
Silicone is just the quick and easy, and it works. I have made a temp box in minutes with a skilsaw and some scrap ply and screws, no glue, and just slap a bead of silicone on the inside seams. Let it sit for a day or more and they work just fine for average or less subs. Box not right, just take the screws out and cut it down/etc and seal it back up. But if I use wood glue and a table saw or guide with the hand saw for straight cuts, then I usually don't have to seal it. Inspect it and look for light in the seams you can tell. I don't think a tiny leak is measurable, even a whistle has a hole large enough to flow some air. You can use other things to seal a box, but silicone is fool proof and it works, fast, easy, and I buy whole tubes on sale any time I see them. Stick a big nail down it when finished they will last on the shelf quite a while if out of the sun/heat. I always use 100% silicone, none of that latex garbage for me had too many problems with it. Would only use latex or partial latex for certain things on a house. Now urethane is nasty stuff it is like super silicone, but for many things it is just overkill. It also does not come apart or come back off like silicone. No I don't make spl boxes either or I might use urethane on that. I don't use anything liquid to seal a sub or speaker, use foam weatherstrip or rope caulk or maybe butyl in special cases.
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Re: Silicone on enclosure?
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