gonna post my Port questions even without pictures of the box
So far I've got approx .53 - .55 cu-ft of air (sub would be deducted from that) and I've already installed a chimney port with 2" innner diameter and huge flared ends
(one of the flared ends is flush mounted inside the box, so basically 100% of the port is chimney style on the outside of the box)
I was hoping to have as low a tuning frequency as possible (31 or 32 hz, and the SWR 843D will be getting a clean & reliable 250watts.
The port length can be anything up to about 20 inches long (not including the flared ends), thats how much room the chimney can stick outside the box.
This is the port I've already installed (I joined two centre sections to get the length up to 18 inches or I can have it as short as a couple inches).
What can I expect the result to be with only a 2" port diameter? (will I have massive port noise? / etc...)
the box isn't totally finished, so technically speaking I could swap out the port (but I'd kinda rather not)
my other port options that I have at home would be
3" ID x 11" L with 5" Flared Ends (this one would be pretty messy to extend in length because it comes as one piece)
I also have this port which is 2-1/2" ID x 8-1/2" L with a slightly Flared opening (but I'm not sure I can extend it easily because I can't find 2.5" ABS locally.
to sum up:
-I've got approx .55cu ft total
-I would really like a low 30s tuning frequency (ie 32hz)
-Xtant 3150 will be powering it with a pretty clean 250watts
-I have room for almost 20 inches of chimney port
I've already installed a 2" ID port with huge flares that could be any length up to 18 inches
A-should I leave the current 2" ID (4" flares) port and trim to necessary length
B-install the 3" ID, 11" long port (with 5" flares and try to alter it for a different length?)
B-install the 2.5" ID 8.5" long port and try to alter it for a different length?
Just finished the enclosure for two 843's sealed. Each of them have .3 cubes after displacement + a little bit of polly-fill. just waiting for the PDX M6 to arrive next Friday.
Just finished the enclosure for two 843's sealed. Each of them have .3 cubes after displacement + a little bit of polly-fill. just waiting for the PDX M6 to arrive next Friday.
very nice, you must let us know how well it slams! I am wanting to seal up a pair but gotta convince my bank(wife) to dole out some funds?
I've got a excellent condition SWR-843D that I only tested for about 20 minutes that I am about to post up on the classifieds if anyone is interested in buying one. I couldn't fit it into my door with my fabrication skills and make it look decent
2013 Hyundai Genesis Coupe 3.8 Track - new build coming soon! <3 JL Audio
Hi Jim, I am looking to replicate the vented box you showed earlier. Did you make it 11"x8.5"x20" as per the specs in the manual? Getting that port length might be tricky for my install. I've been under the impression that it's better to point the port towards the back bumper of the car...would I lose the benefits of the port if I had the sub facing the back bumper and the port facing the left or right side?
Because this sub moves a lot of air, you're going to need a big, efficient port.
Big ports aren't as important with older drivers, where excursion wasn't so huge. But these days, a lot of small subs can move a lot of air due to very high xmax.
Bottom line - uses a really big efficient port, or don't use one at all. ((IE, if you don't have room for a big port, use a sealed box.)
In my 25 years of working in this industry, I've listened to thousands of cars and I can count the ones that sounded great on two hands. Most of them have serious problems and some of the worst ones are IASCA winners... 50% of these guys have plans to change all the equipment in their cars because they don't sound good. In every case so far, none of the equipment has been the cause of poor performance. In every case, it's the installation, the adjustments or the system design. AW
Heard one of these small ported and I was floored. It sounded pretty fricking sweet.
I'm going to remove my 10" xtant in the dash sub box, and replace it with your SWR-823D. In 0.50ft^3 I should net a F3 around 30hz right? Sure beats my F3 of about 49hz now.
Hope it gets here by the end of the week, otherwise next week it will be installed.
I've got a excellent condition SWR-843D that I only tested for about 20 minutes that I am about to post up on the classifieds if anyone is interested in buying one. I couldn't fit it into my door with my fabrication skills and make it look decent
Guess I should of checked this section before buying mine. If the deal was right I could of dealt with the different ohm config.
Hey Jim, (this was actually posted back on page 7 but got overlooked unfortunately)
I need some advice.
I have been patiently waiting to get ahold of these subs since they were announced earlier this year. My current setup:
2010 Toyota Tacoma Access Cab TRD
Alpine INA-900 (BT bought separetely)
Imprint Module
Sirius module
Alpine PDX F6 running Hertz component MLK (6.5" and tweeter)
Alpine PDX M12 running a temporary sub until i decide on what to do with the 8"s
So, the original plan was to cut out the storage units (for the jack etc.) under the back seats and build a box for 4 of the type R 8"s in a sealed enclosure. This would be great, except for it would be time consuming, high cost, and I would lose my storage area. I am now thinking of building an enclosure between the seats and put possibly 3 or 4 of the 8"s in there. I was thinking maybe 2 downfiring and 1 up? or all three up?
What is your opinion and what should I am for for volume and anything else? Thank you in advance!
(I listen to rock such as Tool, Metallica, some alternative, and some mainstream stuff for the GF as well as Eminem)
Should of ran into Home Depot while you were in the states last Saturday.
actually there was 2.5" port in mine when you heard it (guessing mine was the one that made you decide to buy one?)
For reference sake, mine is in approx .53 cu-ft with a chimney port (100% outside the box) and the port is 2.5" inner diameter and approx 17" long (should be a rough tuning of low 30"s)
actually there was 2.5" port in mine when you heard it (guessing mine was the one that made you decide to buy one?)
For reference sake, mine is in approx .53 cu-ft with a chimney port (100% outside the box) and the port is 2.5" inner diameter and approx 17" long (should be a rough tuning of low 30"s)
My box is 100% MDF (no fibreglass)
Will
Ya, your sub impressed me enough to buy it. Curious how it's going to sound up front.
I should end up with close to the same net volume as you (0.55ft^3). The port length I have come up with using WinISD is 18.75" long w/2.5" diameter. This will tune it to 37hz, and give me an F3 of 33hz w/a nice slope. My port will be coming off the passenger side of the box through the 1/2" birch ply.
Hey Jim, (this was actually posted back on page 7 but got overlooked unfortunately)
I need some advice.
I have been patiently waiting to get ahold of these subs since they were announced earlier this year. My current setup:
2010 Toyota Tacoma Access Cab TRD
Alpine INA-900 (BT bought separetely)
Imprint Module
Sirius module
Alpine PDX F6 running Hertz component MLK (6.5" and tweeter)
Alpine PDX M12 running a temporary sub until i decide on what to do with the 8"s
So, the original plan was to cut out the storage units (for the jack etc.) under the back seats and build a box for 4 of the type R 8"s in a sealed enclosure. This would be great, except for it would be time consuming, high cost, and I would lose my storage area. I am now thinking of building an enclosure between the seats and put possibly 3 or 4 of the 8"s in there. I was thinking maybe 2 downfiring and 1 up? or all three up?
What is your opinion and what should I am for for volume and anything else? Thank you in advance!
(I listen to rock such as Tool, Metallica, some alternative, and some mainstream stuff for the GF as well as Eminem)
Peter
Hi Peter,
Sorry I missed it
My recommendation will all come down to how much airspace your new setup will have. Knowning what you can get out of a PDX-M12 and 4 of these vented, I say that should be your target and we can work backwards from there.
Essentially, if you have room for 3 or 4 of these in 0.5 or greater each (plus port), I'd go that route. Once you have to step down to two vented (if you have less than 1.0cubes), I'd go to 4 sealed.
Up or down-firing: I'd prefer it all to be the same, especially when you are going vertical, as that will affect the perceived impact of the system if you are opposing them.
Hope that helps. Post up some pics or measurements of what you're working on and I'm sure either Xtreme or I can help you out to get something going.
Jim
if you do this. it'll help you. some sunny day ...
I truly appreciate your response. I am after SQ so whatever ends up working better for that then I will be happy. I sat inside my truck taking measurements and thinking up schematics for a long long time last night and cant seem to get something concrete. I will try to post pictures tonight with a few basic measurements. I am planning on starting construction tomorrow night with a friend so I do understand that this is very very last minute!
The easiest measurement to toss out there right now is that the distance between the two rear seats is 11" (so 9.5" using 3/4") MDF. The height is undetermined. The length is goofy due to the floor and console. From the console to the base of the storage compartment is 14" then up 3 5/8" for the storage compartment then another 12" to the back wall. The box CANNOT be wider than 11" due to the seats because I do want them to be functional. The center console (between driver and passenger) height is about 12 1/2". It would be nice to have something that looked like a continuation of the console and not a gigantic piece of wood running up the back wall. I will try to put up a picture tonight to give a better idea of my numbers. Thanks!
My recommendation will all come down to how much airspace your new setup will have. Knowning what you can get out of a PDX-M12 and 4 of these vented, I say that should be your target and we can work backwards from there.
Essentially, if you have room for 3 or 4 of these in 0.5 or greater each (plus port), I'd go that route. Once you have to step down to two vented (if you have less than 1.0cubes), I'd go to 4 sealed.
Up or down-firing: I'd prefer it all to be the same, especially when you are going vertical, as that will affect the perceived impact of the system if you are opposing them.
Hope that helps. Post up some pics or measurements of what you're working on and I'm sure either Xtreme or I can help you out to get something going.
Jim
So, I tried to use the easiest method I could think of. The distances are as follows:
Blue to Yellow - 13"
Yellow to Green - 3 5/8"
Green to White - 12"
Floor to top of console - roughly 12"
Bottom of console to where the tape measure is - 3 1/2"
Top of console to back - 22"
Width between seats - 11" (therefore box will have internal width 9 1/2". Using 3/4"MDF.
A rough calculation says thats maybe 20.5x9.5x8.5(avg) .. roughly 0.95 cubes. I'd say go with 3 sealed in a box like that. Get 16oz of polyfill to stuff it as well and you should have a very nice SQ setup with some nice SPL capability as well. I'd fire two woofers outward, directly behind the console and the third upfiring close to the back wall.
Hope that helps.
Jim
if you do this. it'll help you. some sunny day ...
A rough calculation says thats maybe 20.5x9.5x8.5(avg) .. roughly 0.95 cubes. I'd say go with 3 sealed in a box like that. Get 16oz of polyfill to stuff it as well and you should have a very nice SQ setup with some nice SPL capability as well. I'd fire two woofers outward, directly behind the console and the third upfiring close to the back wall.
Hope that helps.
Jim
Hey Jim,
Thanks again. We were thinking 3 sealed as well. What do you mean by having two firing outwards?
Also, what would I be looking at for crossover settings?
Meaning one firing out the sides of the box at each of the doors. Having 11" width will allow the woofers to be placed back to back in the box.
As far as XO, it really depends on what you are running up front and if you have time correction available for the mains.
Hey,
I was hoping to shy away from that idea just because of putting suitcases, bagbacks etc back there. I would so choked if I ruined my sub that way. Do you think there are any other options? Would 1 firing into the back of the console and 2 upwards work?
Thanks!
Meaning one firing out the sides of the box at each of the doors. Having 11" width will allow the woofers to be placed back to back in the box.
As far as XO, it really depends on what you are running up front and if you have time correction available for the mains.
Hey Jim,
I see the grills online and have decided that subs firing at the console I am guessing will cause far too many vibrations. If we built it to 3/4 inch above the console we end up with 1.146 cubes total. That would lead me to think 2 outfiring and 2 upfiring? what would you do?
Re: Alpine SWR-823D / 843D 8" Subwoofers
Linear Mode
