Jim Walter,
I'm wondering why they weren't just made to accept a standard-size banana plug? Is there a reason for this?
Simple......Its Alpine!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! They will come out with specific banana plugs that cost 4x what normal ones do that you will have to buy if you wish to connect that way.......
Sorry Jim, Your a great guy, but your company has built that rep over the years!
You simply cant have X until you buy y and z first!
Just insert your banana plug in the wire hole instead of the back of the plug. Problem solved.
Impossible with my box, the terminals are too close to the MDF for anything to stick out that far Plenty of room in the vertical direction however. For now I'm using bare wires, and may try something called BFA speaker plugs which are a bit narrower than a banana plug.
2011 MINI Cooper S :: [build log] :: [new CarPC project]
HAT L6SE, L3SE, L1 Pro R2. 4x Alpine SWR-843D, 2x JL XD700/5, 2x XD500/3, Alpine H800, RUXC800, Mac Mini CarPC
Neil,just hurry the heck up and play the 4 subs.lol I've just finished up the fiberglass well in my pickup,and I've always used sealed boxes,but with all the ruckus over 2 ported [I have 2 823's already] I need you to give your impressions of the 4 pack. [I'd like 2 more 823's for a 4 ohm load on my new HD1200]
Thanks
Neil,just hurry the heck up and play the 4 subs.lol I've just finished up the fiberglass well in my pickup,and I've always used sealed boxes,but with all the ruckus over 2 ported [I have 2 823's already] I need you to give your impressions of the 4 pack. [I'd like 2 more 823's for a 4 ohm load on my new HD1200]
Thanks
I'm doing a write-up on my RTA analysis now... The short story is, when put in a 0.3 sealed enclosure, they play VERY cleanly down to the F3 frequency (53 Hz in my case). The farther down you go after that, harmonic distortion starts getting really ugly. The second harmonic at 30 Hz was about 14 dB down from the fundamental, and 20 Hz just plain sounded like crap. Part of my write-up is trying to understand just how all this will sound inside my car, after cabin gain and other filtering. My initial impressions are that for older music without much sub-bass (e.g. classic rock, blues, country, jazz, etc), they will sound positively great.... But try to play some Skrillex or Bassnectar (two of my favorite electronic producers of filth and noise), and the 8's have a hard time keeping up, at least in a small sealed enclosure such as mine. 12's or 15's are obviously superior if you need to get down to 20 Hz cleanly. If you're an old fart with a classic rock collection, they'll sound spectacular.
2011 MINI Cooper S :: [build log] :: [new CarPC project]
HAT L6SE, L3SE, L1 Pro R2. 4x Alpine SWR-843D, 2x JL XD700/5, 2x XD500/3, Alpine H800, RUXC800, Mac Mini CarPC
Thanks for the impressions. I fit the old fart criteria,no problem. Mr.Jackson's "Dangerous" is probably my last purchased,most played CD with any major bass content. The new well liner came in at .78,so an "enclosure" of .42 with 4 8"er's should raise a few eyebrows with the young punks at work.
Thanks for the impressions. I fit the old fart criteria,no problem. Mr.Jackson's "Dangerous" is probably my last purchased,most played CD with any major bass content. The new well liner came in at .78,so an "enclosure" of .42 with 4 8"er's should raise a few eyebrows with the young punks at work.
If your newest audio purchase is by a dead guy, then you're A OK Get your box built and post back here with pics!
2011 MINI Cooper S :: [build log] :: [new CarPC project]
HAT L6SE, L3SE, L1 Pro R2. 4x Alpine SWR-843D, 2x JL XD700/5, 2x XD500/3, Alpine H800, RUXC800, Mac Mini CarPC
I stopped by this thread to harass you a bit, as I ran into a problem last night. It seems that the four banana jacks on my SWR-843D's are too small to fit standard-size banana plugs. I spent $23 on 16 jacks from Parts Express, only to find that they don't fit. Nor does any of my home lab's banana test leads fit, either. The included DVC jumpers work fine, but they seem to be non-standard, much skinnier than a normal banana plug.
So for now I'm just going to go with bare wires in the spring-terminal route... which should work, but I'm still a bit bummed
I'm wondering why they weren't just made to accept a standard-size banana plug? Is there a reason for this?
So what size banana plugs fit without any issues? Where can one purchase them?
So what size banana plugs fit without any issues? Where can one purchase them?
BFA speaker plugs -may- fit, I will be trying them out.
2011 MINI Cooper S :: [build log] :: [new CarPC project]
HAT L6SE, L3SE, L1 Pro R2. 4x Alpine SWR-843D, 2x JL XD700/5, 2x XD500/3, Alpine H800, RUXC800, Mac Mini CarPC
I'm doing a write-up on my RTA analysis now... The short story is, when put in a 0.3 sealed enclosure, they play VERY cleanly down to the F3 frequency (53 Hz in my case). The farther down you go after that, harmonic distortion starts getting really ugly. The second harmonic at 30 Hz was about 14 dB down from the fundamental, and 20 Hz just plain sounded like crap. Part of my write-up is trying to understand just how all this will sound inside my car, after cabin gain and other filtering. My initial impressions are that for older music without much sub-bass (e.g. classic rock, blues, country, jazz, etc), they will sound positively great.... But try to play some Skrillex or Bassnectar (two of my favorite electronic producers of filth and noise), and the 8's have a hard time keeping up, at least in a small sealed enclosure such as mine. 12's or 15's are obviously superior if you need to get down to 20 Hz cleanly. If you're an old fart with a classic rock collection, they'll sound spectacular.
Nope. It's ALL about how much air you can move. You can hit 20Hz with a tweeter. Just not very loudly, and not for long but it WILL do it. Guess how I know. Seriously though, low bass is about one thing, moving air. It doesn't matter if it's 15s or 4s. If you're moving the same amount of air you're moving the same amount of air. Also, your car's transfer function should be downright silly. I'd be surprised if it wasn't too much bass when you get it in the car.
Nope. It's ALL about how much air you can move. You can hit 20Hz with a tweeter. Just not very loudly, and not for long but it WILL do it. Guess how I know. Seriously though, low bass is about one thing, moving air. It doesn't matter if it's 15s or 4s. If you're moving the same amount of air you're moving the same amount of air. Also, your car's transfer function should be downright silly. I'd be surprised if it wasn't too much bass when you get it in the car.
As mentioned in my other write-up thread, the box WILL hit down to 20 Hz. The displacement is there (more surface area than a pair of 12's), it's just a matter of getting there cleanly, and I'm pretty sure I'm being more picky than most people would be. I will be rocking the 4 8's for a few months, and heck, I might even fall in love with them. They do play AWFULLY clean above 45 Hz
2011 MINI Cooper S :: [build log] :: [new CarPC project]
HAT L6SE, L3SE, L1 Pro R2. 4x Alpine SWR-843D, 2x JL XD700/5, 2x XD500/3, Alpine H800, RUXC800, Mac Mini CarPC
Has anyone tried the Type Rs in an IB configuration? I'd be curious about what frequency they start rolling off at. Also what kind of power is recommended in IB format.
Not looking to bash a brand, I have the JL 8IB4s which are old and probably have had their day. Want to modernize and get some better output. If I'm not mistaken these have nearly dbl the Xmax of what I have and I think if the lfe is decent I'd see notable improvement swapping my drivers. Would be curious if anyone has experience with both drivers in IB.
Has anyone tried the Type Rs in an IB configuration? I'd be curious about what frequency they start rolling off at. Also what kind of power is recommended in IB format.
Not looking to bash a brand, I have the JL 8IB4s which are old and probably have had their day. Want to modernize and get some better output. If I'm not mistaken these have nearly dbl the Xmax of what I have and I think if the lfe is decent I'd see notable improvement swapping my drivers. Would be curious if anyone has experience with both drivers in IB.
IB the Alpine 8" needs 100 watts to hit Xmax @ 20Hz - 110 watts and it goes over 14mm @ 20Hz.
Kelvin
Lycan
Quote:
I'll repeat it for the miliionth time : All amps do NOT sound the same ... It's astonishing to me that nobody understands this
Hmmm. So I actually can't really add any power, but I'd probably get more spl for the little power I got? I think Xmax on the JLs is like 8mm. I wouldn't need a larger amp afterall
IB the Alpine 8" needs 100 watts to hit Xmax @ 20Hz - 110 watts and it goes over 14mm @ 20Hz.
Kelvin
Is that with both coils in series or parallel?
I am not a bass head, I am just some seeking some low end fill. My subamp is rated for 300W at 4 ohms. The subamp does have a subsonic filter. The subsonic is from 10-80 hz but not sure about the slope. I think it is 12 dB.
What utility are you using to figure the xmax? How do I figure max power handling for different subsonic filter settings?
If I set the subsonic at 35 Hz would it improve the power handling much?
"No where in your rambling incoherent response did you come close to anything that could be considered a rational thought. We are all dumber for having listened to it."
"People are dumb panicky dangerous animals and you know it."
Hey guys, looking for a little advice. I just bought four of the swr-843D's and they are powered by a pdx-m12 @ 2ohms for 1200 watts. I'm wondering what gauge speakerwire to run from the m12 to the swr's? The length from the amp to the box is appr. 20 ft. of wire. Thanks in advance for the help. (I did a search but everybody's advice is kinda all over the place theory wise)
How much more output will I achieve running 3 of these ported verse 2 of them ported?
would it be worth giving up the extra space and mounting the additional amp under the seat? I can fit 3 amps on my back wall but 4 is a no go.
Is that with both coils in series or parallel? Doesn't matter much...
I am not a bass head, I am just some seeking some low end fill. My subamp is rated for 300W at 4 ohms. The subamp does have a subsonic filter. The subsonic is from 10-80 hz but not sure about the slope. I think it is 12 dB.
What utility are you using to figure the xmax? How do I figure max power handling for different subsonic filter settings? Power handling doesnt change if you go ported, sealed, IB, ISO, horn - only thing that matters in IB is not to overexcurt the driver... Just use WinISD and plot the driver. I use 15cuft to mimic a trunk.
If I set the subsonic at 35 Hz would it improve the power handling much? Subsonic set to 35Hz 24dB/oct slope, you can put 300 watts on 1 driver (600 on 2, etc...) which gets close to 14mm @ 40Hz
Kelvin
Lycan
Quote:
I'll repeat it for the miliionth time : All amps do NOT sound the same ... It's astonishing to me that nobody understands this
Hey guys, looking for a little advice. I just bought four of the swr-843D's and they are powered by a pdx-m12 @ 2ohms for 1200 watts. I'm wondering what gauge speakerwire to run from the m12 to the swr's? The length from the amp to the box is appr. 20 ft. of wire. Thanks in advance for the help. (I did a search but everybody's advice is kinda all over the place theory wise)
16 is fine though some will say you HAVE to use 12. What kindo f car do you have that there is TWENTY feet of wire between the amp and enclosure???
Quote:
Originally Posted by bumplime
How much more output will I achieve running 3 of these ported verse 2 of them ported?
would it be worth giving up the extra space and mounting the additional amp under the seat? I can fit 3 amps on my back wall but 4 is a no go.
How much more output will I achieve running 3 of these ported verse 2 of them ported?
would it be worth giving up the extra space and mounting the additional amp under the seat? I can fit 3 amps on my back wall but 4 is a no go.
If you can fit them, more headroom is always better.
if you do this. it'll help you. some sunny day ...
Hey guys, looking for a little advice. I just bought four of the swr-843D's and they are powered by a pdx-m12 @ 2ohms for 1200 watts. I'm wondering what gauge speakerwire to run from the m12 to the swr's? The length from the amp to the box is appr. 20 ft. of wire. Thanks in advance for the help. (I did a search but everybody's advice is kinda all over the place theory wise)
I use 8GA powerwire .... but most people think I'm crazy
if you do this. it'll help you. some sunny day ...
I am not a bass head, I am just some seeking some low end fill. My subamp is rated for 300W at 4 ohms. The subamp does have a subsonic filter. The subsonic is from 10-80 hz but not sure about the slope. I think it is 12 dB.
What utility are you using to figure the xmax? How do I figure max power handling for different subsonic filter settings?
If I set the subsonic at 35 Hz would it improve the power handling much?
While you hit the Xmax at that power, the subwoofer still has an additional 10mm of stroke in each direction, so you aren't bottoming or breaking it, just getting into the distortion area where things begin to become audibly distorted.
if you do this. it'll help you. some sunny day ...
Re: Alpine SWR-823D / 843D 8" Subwoofers
Plenty of room in the vertical direction however. For now I'm using bare wires, and may try something called BFA 
Get your box built and post back here with pics!
Seriously though, low bass is about one thing, moving air. It doesn't matter if it's 15s or 4s. If you're moving the same amount of air you're moving the same amount of air. Also, your car's transfer function should be downright silly. I'd be surprised if it wasn't too much bass when you get it in the car.
Linear Mode
