I have a 97 4runner that I am trying to put a nice stereo in right now.
I am looking for someone to help me design my boxes.
I can custom fit the boxes to my truck so I just need internal volume and port size.
I have plenty of power so I'm not worried about making the boxes sound loud. I just want pure SQ. I still want to go loud just with SQ number one.
I'll list my equipment in a second but first I just wanted to say that I have about $1K worth of SoundDeadnerShowdown stuff in my ride. So I know about making a SQ machine! I just need help from someone that really knows there boxes so all my other work is not done for nothing.
Also I wanted to put these speakers in T-Line Enclosures for SQ and I really want to get rid of the rear sound wave.
I could build the T-lines but I think they will take way too long! So I just want to make my speakers sound there best in a standard box, Now!
My System:
Clarion DRX-9675z
Fiber-Optic Cable
DSP
H.O. Alternator
Big 3
Kinetik HC2000
0,2ga wires
Real nice speakerwire and RCA's
PPI PCX 480
Zapco RB13.2 (1st Box SMALL SEALED)Pair
Zapco RB16.2 (2nd Box SMALL SEALED)Pair
Zapco Studio 500
Elemental Designs E3.6 (3rd Box SMALL PORTED)Pair
Sundown SA-8 (4th Box Small PORTED)Pair
Everything New but the Amps.
That's pretty much it, it should be what I want if I can get these boxes made.
I can pay a small fee also if you need it to cover your time.
Please let me know if you think you can help, I attached the T/S for all these speakers but I can also email it.
Hopefully someone can help me so I can listen to my stereo this summer, I picked up all the parts (new and used) at the start of 2010, so they are burning a big hole on the places they are sitting in my house.
Ok, for the mids you'll need pretty small sealed enclosures, QTC of .707 gives:
5.25" volume of 1.146l F3 of 159.8Hz
6.5" volume of 3.914l F3 of 113.8Hz
For the subs I'd have to ask why run a pair of 6.5s and a pair of 8s? Also what ranges do want the drivers playing? I'll model some for you-but you're going to have a tiny box with a huge port:
E3.6 tuned to 35.75Hz in 0.5cf needs 51.11" of 4" ID port
SA8 tuned to 33.76 in 0.5cf needs 57.83" of 4" ID port
Looking at the outputs of the two drivers above the E3.6 is basically just a small SA8:
On the subs, A few years ago I thought that I would get better upper-low end response with the 6.5's.
So you are saying they won't help with the sound quality? I could always ditch them, it would be less weight and boxes to build. Also they are discontinued so if I blow one up that's it for 6.5s.
The sub ranges would be 30-170hz but I'm not sure on that one, I want it to reproduce all the notes it can do crystal clear and blend with the mid's. I'm not worried about having the very lowest end bass be real loud.
A tiny box with a huge port works if that's what sounds best, could the port taper out to make it shorter? and can it have curves in it so it could be folded up to save space?
Also on the Mid's, should the inside volume be 1.146l and 3.914l plus a little more space to make up for the drivers, or just make the boxes have the volume listed and just put the driver in.
And should I put polyfill in these boxes?
I had another question but I forgot because its late
How do you intend to run it? 3-way with the Zapco 13cm and 6.5" plus the sub or are the comps for front/rear and then the sub?
The mid enclosures are net volume, so you'd need to add the driver volume to the values above. Heavy stuffing. Incresing the enclosure volume would give a lower F3, also they could be ported if you wished, though TBH I'd just run them IB in a solid door/kick-that's how they're designed to run.
Sub I'd tune lower if space allows-how much can you give up to enclosure volume?
5.25" Zapco: Front Mids
6.5" Zapco: Rear Mids
6.5 E3.6: Sub
SA8: Sub
I wanted to put the zapco speakers in a box to keep them safe from water and dirt. Also I'm trying to seal my truck from outside noise so a box would help with that.
Do you think they will sound better IB, if not I will make a box for them.
On the rear cargo area, I have lost of room and I'm going to try to stick most of the box in the rear quarter panel (cutting required). So lots of room and if I ditch the E3.6 I will have more space for the SA-8 boxes with ports.
Should I ditch the E3.6? and just make a real nice box for the SA-8.
with those specs, not sure why you are trying to put the mids in enclosures. seal the doors and run em IB. will have alot more depth to em and they will handle power fine.
I wouldnt use the E3.6 no sense having to different sized subs. those 8" will do what you need and blend into the midbasses just fine.
Original post whore!
Disclaimer:Opinions of the above are the property of the poster
Stock Sync HU |AC LC2i | Phoenix Gold EQ215i | Soundstream SA120 -> ID CD1eMH | JL 300/2 -> ID X65 | JL 500/1 -> (2) 15" Pyle PL1590BL in IB
Give me the gross dimensions you have to play with and I'll model the SA8s for you, no point in doing the 6.5s too-unless theres somewhere to squeeze them up front-search for "dry bass" and read the PB thread and you'll understand my rationale.
The back of my 4runner is 57" wide by 45" long (77" to back of the front seats) and about 38" tall. Also the wheel wells take out about 2.5 sqft. each out of the big dimension. There will be a custom rear seat, I want to put a 8" sub on each side of the back so there is still the center space open.
I will go IB on the Mids and not use the E3.6 on this car.
I hope I can get the RainStop shipped to the US
I'm having a custom roll bar made for the rear and I was thinking the port tubes could come up the back of the roll bar and end somewhere near the roof, that would give them some space to travel. It can be all built in so it looks cool and not dumb.
If none of the UK suppliers will ship to the US I'd be happy to take delivery and forward it to you. Check European websites-Phonocar are an Italian brand and someone may ship direct to the US.
Give me the gross dimensions of the space you have for each driver and I'll start modeling-I like the external ports idea
you can always just make one. find a piece of 3-5mm rubber and cut it into a flap. mount it above the speaker so any water would roll off. just make sure it is a nice thick peice of rubber so it doesnt vibrate and make noise.
Original post whore!
Disclaimer:Opinions of the above are the property of the poster
Stock Sync HU |AC LC2i | Phoenix Gold EQ215i | Soundstream SA120 -> ID CD1eMH | JL 300/2 -> ID X65 | JL 500/1 -> (2) 15" Pyle PL1590BL in IB
The rubber will reflect sound back to the cone-this is open cell foam so the effect would be massively reduced-if there is any, I've covered a tweeter with it and myself and my fitter noticed no attenuation.
you can always just make one. find a piece of 3-5mm rubber and cut it into a flap. mount it above the speaker so any water would roll off. just make sure it is a nice thick peice of rubber so it doesnt vibrate and make noise.
I would use a the scrap MLV I have laying around but my goal is to get rid of the rear wave as much as I can.
12" Wide 15" Tall 10-11" Deep with the port going on top of the wheelwell and up the pillar with the roll bar that's not there yet.
Here are some pics to help you see. I will have to cut and reweld some metal on the left side because of the blasted gas tank to make it work. I can do the same to that right side or have the sub more forward in the truck then the other sub.
I want the boxes notched in the quarter panel so I still have a rear cargo area.
Will that sound OK? and should the subs point forward slightly or just square to each other?
The "Dry Bass" sounds good but a pain in the a$$. Would it be hard to wire it right? Would it work in a real small sealed box for the E3.6s, because I can't see putting anything but the smallest box up front, even then it would be hard to do.
Sounds crazy but I do own the subs for it already or I wouldn't even think about doing it.
Does the "Dry Bass" hit your chest harder without being louder because thats what I want.
Ok, using .75" MDF would give an internal volume of 0.697cf before driver/port displacement-means you'd need 97.66" of 4"ID port per box to tune to 22Hz-that's if you get it all external!
Raising the tuning to 31Hz brings the port length down to 50", raising it higher then that subsequently increases vent velocity, so for a low tune you'll be looking at between 50-100" of 4"ID vent!
The dry bass will be a bit of an endeavour-not tried it myself as of yet-nor has PB IIRC-just a theory atm! Wiring is just reversed phase-it's tuning that would be the ballache!
I would use a the scrap MLV I have laying around but my goal is to get rid of the rear wave as much as I can.
putting a rain flap over the speaker inside the door has nothing to do with getting rid of, or rather isolating the rear wave from the front wave. that is all about sealing up the door and deadening it.
Original post whore!
Disclaimer:Opinions of the above are the property of the poster
Stock Sync HU |AC LC2i | Phoenix Gold EQ215i | Soundstream SA120 -> ID CD1eMH | JL 300/2 -> ID X65 | JL 500/1 -> (2) 15" Pyle PL1590BL in IB
So the 50" port tubes will fit, they will stop at the roof, I will cut the ends on an angle so the air can come out and not hit the roof.
Will the port sound better if it does not got into the box at all? Most ports I see go inside the box but thats most likely to make it fit better. I can round the edges of the port entry and also taper it out so more air can enter at first if that will help at all.
I will get some Phonocar as well, it claims to be a moisture barrier so thats what I want. I want this install to last forever so I'm going to over do it.
Doors will be very deadend and also sealed and with the Phonocar everything will be totally sealed.
I'll see if I can get some sent here by a retailer this week. If not I'll need some help out.
I might need a few pack because I think I want to use it for some custom grills too. Is it black or grey? and would it look good for a grill?
If you are still looking for something to protect the speakers from moisture, check out Boom Mat speaker baffles. I am using some with 6.5s in the doors and they seem to work rather well. A small portion was cut out of the bottom to allow the speakers to vent into the doors, but they should be great for keeping moisture out. Got a pair on Amazon for a little over eight bucks.
So the 50" port tubes will fit, they will stop at the roof, I will cut the ends on an angle so the air can come out and not hit the roof.
Ok, should work fine. Remember the length will be the average of the two lebgths of the angled piece.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SterlingCustoms
Will the port sound better if it does not got into the box at all? Most ports I see go inside the box but thats most likely to make it fit better. I can round the edges of the port entry and also taper it out so more air can enter at first if that will help at all.
If the gross volume of the box can be increased then the port can go inside, if the gross volume cannot be increased then any port going into the enclosure will reduce the net volume of air for the sub and change tuning.
Box would sound the same if the net air is the same and port length the same, so don't worry about it not being in the enclosure.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SterlingCustoms
I will get some Phonocar as well, it claims to be a moisture barrier so thats what I want. I want this install to last forever so I'm going to over do it.
Doors will be very deadend and also sealed and with the Phonocar everything will be totally sealed.
I'll see if I can get some sent here by a retailer this week. If not I'll need some help out.
I might need a few pack because I think I want to use it for some custom grills too. Is it black or grey? and would it look good for a grill?
The material is black, would look fine for a grill IMO-but tastes do differ If you can't get it delivered to the US get it sent to me and I'll forward it for you.
Need Help Calculating Box Volume
If you can't get it delivered to the US get it sent to me and I'll forward it for you.
Linear Mode
