was up i dont know if im posting this in the right place lol. but im basically lookin for tips and help. i drive a 92 civic hatch back. i have infinity refernece series components in my doors and 2 12" kicker cvrs all being ran by a lightning audion 4 channel amp. it sounds great for a $500 system. but i want more clear and crisp highs and more thump lmk all your opinions
Cheapest and easiest thing to do is build a ported box for the CVRs (tune low please!), and seal and deaden your doors so the comps will sound better. For a little more $$$, I would grab a decent 750 - 1000 watt RMS monoblock amp to run the CVRs.
I would consider unloading the Lightning Audio amp, as it's basically Rockford's flea-market level brand (below Prime series), and get a better 4 channel, maybe even to match whatever mono you get.
thank you for your response. but im looking to upgrade my components. and would like to put towards the rear another set of speakers or components im just not sure which route to take
speakers in the rear are a waste. what is the issue? not loud enough? as mentioned, get a more powerfull amplifier. if you cant get crisp bright highs with infinity refs, then you have hearing damage my friend
Original post whore!
Disclaimer:Opinions of the above are the property of the poster
Stock Sync HU |AC LC2i | Phoenix Gold EQ215i | Soundstream SA120 -> ID CD1eMH | JL 300/2 -> ID X65 | JL 500/1 -> (2) 15" Pyle PL1590BL in IB
Better power to those infinities may get you where you need. I had a set of reference components and they were very bright, even when off axis. Did you set the crossover network to the higher setting for the tweeters? Many crossover networks have a way to tune your tweeters a little louder or softer.
To get your subwoofers to put out more sound you will want them in a properly sized and tuned ported box like Danometal said, and positioned in your car for the greatest output. They will also need their own amplifier. Sometimes folks have subwoofers firing foreward and up against the back seat, when they might get more output if they face backwards there as the soundwaves that reflect from the rear of the car can be more in sync with the orignial soundwaves and you get more output. Sometimes the you can get more output if they are as far back as they can be, but facing forewared as well. I don't know enough about your car to give you the best recommendation, but it's something to consider.
If you have never heard a decent set of comps in a well done doors you have no idea how good they should sound. I can't stress this enough, when your doors or wherever you put your mids are done right it makes the biggest impact on how your system sounds(imho).
Listen to these people.
Do your doors right, get a good box, a decent amp and you will feel like you have the best system around.
I will warn you know this hobby gets $$ridiculous$$ real fast though. The good thing is the install matters the most.
Acura RSX HU: Eclipse CD 7200mkii>Ipod Front Stage: Arc 2100cxl > ID XS-65 comps Mid Bass: Arc 2050cxl > XS-65 Subwoofer: Arc 2100cxl > IDQ12v3d2 >>> a TON of Raamat
If you have never heard a decent set of comps in a well done doors you have no idea how good they should sound. I can't stress this enough, when your doors or wherever you put your mids are done right it makes the biggest impact on how your system sounds(imho).
Listen to these people.
Do your doors right, get a good box, a decent amp and you will feel like you have the best system around.
I will warn you know this hobby gets $$ridiculous$$ real fast though. The good thing is the install matters the most.
+1. A great install in key, and makes all the difference.
A great speaker installed properly, "priceless".
Thankfully those that know it all, can't do it all!
I'm pretty sure almost anything (within reason) will be better than those Infinitys. Those tweeters just killed me.
Save you some $ & forget about rear speakers. Look at comps with a metal dome tweeter to get those crisp highs you're after.
Like already mentioned... vent your subs, or get a mono amp. Deaden/seal your doors for better midbass response, which the Infinitys have next to none.
I'm pretty sure almost anything (within reason) will be better than those Infinitys. Those tweeters just killed me.
Save you some $ & forget about rear speakers. Look at comps with a metal dome tweeter to get those crisp highs you're after.
Like already mentioned... vent your subs, or get a mono amp. Deaden/seal your doors for better midbass response, which the Infinitys have next to none.
I've always wondered why the Infinity speakers are famous for that, but the JBLs aren't.
so your saying keeping the midbass infintys are fine but swap out the tweeter? and also i have the 2 kickers in a box that i kno is to small for them. would this problem be solved by venting the box or make a box to the specs for those subs?
Changing the tweeter on your component set may not be a good idea as the crossover was designed for those tweeters, and just changing them might not give you what you want.
You shouldn't just add ports to a sub box it can negatively change the acustic properties. A new box, sized properly and tuned (correct port length/diameter) to your subwoofer is the best choice.
Adding some polyfill to your current subwoofer cabinet might improve the sound a bit. It won't help much if your enclosure is way too small, though.
I've always wondered why the Infinity speakers are famous for that, but the JBLs aren't.
You mean the tweeter or lack of midbass? Don't really have much to say about the midbass, I've always been pleased with the midbass out of all the JBL component sets I've had (currently in sealed 'n dead doors, but also ran them in sealed kick panels, never just stuck 'em in the door and been done with it), but some of their tweeters seem to have mellowed in their more recent releases than used to be. IIRC, 10+ years ago, they used those titanium tweeters in almost everything, and they WERE blazingly bright, but that was how I liked tweeters to sound (at the time). Looks like they still use a Ti in their GTO sets, but my Powers use a "textile dome" tweeter that is A LOT different than the old school tinny titaniums; very loud, but very smooth, really my favorite tweeter to date. I installed them just barely off axis in the sail panels, maybe 20 degrees (about 6 inches in front of the nose of the opposing passenger), without the tweeter attenuation and fully intended on having to knock them down 6dB to get them more liveable, was pleasantly surprised that they didn't need it.
That being said, the Infinity Reference uses a textile dome too, but just buying the tweeters, the JBL costs twice as much, so I'd imagine they're different.
'10 Toyota Corolla S → Dynamat Xtreme & Cascade VB2 → Clarion CZ500 ⱡ JBL GTE422 22-Band EQ ⱡ JBL P660C 6.5" ⱡ RF Punch 200-2 ⱡ JBL P1224 ported 2.3ft^3 @ 28Hz ⱡ RF Punch 300-1 ← 2Ω, all of it
You mean the tweeter or lack of midbass? Don't really have much to say about the midbass, I've always been pleased with the midbass out of all the JBL component sets I've had (currently in sealed 'n dead doors, but also ran them in sealed kick panels, never just stuck 'em in the door and been done with it), but some of their tweeters seem to have mellowed in their more recent releases than used to be. IIRC, 10+ years ago, they used those titanium tweeters in almost everything, and they WERE blazingly bright, but that was how I liked tweeters to sound (at the time). Looks like they still use a Ti in their GTO sets, but my Powers use a "textile dome" tweeter that is A LOT different than the old school tinny titaniums; very loud, but very smooth, really my favorite tweeter to date. I installed them just barely off axis in the sail panels, maybe 20 degrees (about 6 inches in front of the nose of the opposing passenger), without the tweeter attenuation and fully intended on having to knock them down 6dB to get them more liveable, was pleasantly surprised that they didn't need it.
That being said, the Infinity Reference uses a textile dome too, but just buying the tweeters, the JBL costs twice as much, so I'd imagine they're different.
Nice review. I would have bought those if I knew I was only gonna bridge my 4 channel amp for a week, just to unbridge it and go active. :/ If the components are indestructible tanks like my P1224 sub is, I will most definitely consider them in the future. My Polk DBs active are doing fine for now.
OP, you listening to this? JBL power components > Infinity components, according to this thread.
was up guys im new to this forum
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