Hi,
What kind and what rating of fuse should I use with remote relay turning on 3 amps and one dsp(listed in my sig) ? I'm total newbie to electricity and I really don't want to screw that up so I have to be assured. Thanks in advance.
I don't think I'd relay for that, its not really a "lot" of components on the line and the RTO isn't usually fused..
But, if you do, do it... I'd start with a 1A fuse.. if that's not enough, 2-3A
Quote:
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The years passed, mankind became stupider at a frightening rate. Some had high hopes the genetic engineering would correct this trend in evolution, but sadly the greatest minds and resources where focused on conquering hair loss and prolonging erections. - Narrator: Idiocracy
Why are you running a remote relay? You just run the remote from your deck to the bit.one, then run it from the remote out on the bit one to your amps.... thats all.
Oh my, now I feel stupid I'm not a native speaker(but a solid driver) so I didn't figure it out.
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Why are you running a remote relay? You just run the remote from your deck to the bit.one, then run it from the remote out on the bit one to your amps.... thats all.
I know I could. I just want my remote out in my HU 100% safe. Currently I have 2 amps and B1 daisy-chained but I dont want to risk connecting another amp.
It would be safe. The remote from your HU is only turning on the Bitone. The bitone is then turning on amps. Either way you need the bitone turning the amps on not the HU. The reason for that is the bitone delays turn on and turn off of the amps so you dont have popping in your tweeters which could destroy them.
Oh. Thanks. I've looked into the manual and there is a remote out. Haven't noticed it before. But it's said that the absorbtion of the connected device can't be above 130 mA. How the heck would I know what's the absorbtion on Helix B4 ?
130 milliamps= .13 amps. If there used for a couple of amplifiers for turning on, than you should be fine. But if your trying to add lights, fans, or other little accessories, than thats a no no. You would need a relay for higher current applications
there is nothing wrong with running a relay but most of the time you dont have to. I will fly in the face of the advice given here and say I always install a remote turn on relay. all you need is to accidentally touch the RTO wire to ground for an instant and the output is toast. if you have a relay, it will handle alot more current than you will ever need and even if you do kill it, its just a $5 relay. easily replaced.
most amplifiers will only pull 25-50mA to turn them on. its just a transistor or opti-isolated transistor.
I would do as others have suggested regaurding the bit-one though. turn your amplifiers on with that RTO wire. if your amplifiers have soft turn-on and turn-off you will likely never hear the difference. (I am sure the helix do) but the bit-one RTO has timed the turn-on and turn-off to make sure thumps dont occur.
Original post whore!
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Stock Sync HU |AC LC2i | Phoenix Gold EQ215i | Soundstream SA120 -> ID CD1eMH | JL 300/2 -> ID X65 | JL 500/1 -> (2) 15" Pyle PL1590BL in IB
130 milliamps= 1.3 amps. If there used for a couple of amps for turning on, than you should be fine. But if your trying to add lights, fans, or other little accessories, than thats a no no. You would need a relay for higher current applications
130 milliamps= 1.3 amps. If there used for a couple of amps for turning on, than you should be fine. But if your trying to add lights, fans, or other little accessories, than thats a no no. You would need a relay for higher current applications
no it does not! 130mA = 0.13 Amps. enough to turn on a few amplifiers or a relay.
Original post whore!
Disclaimer:Opinions of the above are the property of the poster
Stock Sync HU |AC LC2i | Phoenix Gold EQ215i | Soundstream SA120 -> ID CD1eMH | JL 300/2 -> ID X65 | JL 500/1 -> (2) 15" Pyle PL1590BL in IB
I would do as others have suggested regaurding the bit-one though. turn your amplifiers on with that RTO wire. if your amplifiers have soft turn-on and turn-off you will likely never hear the difference. (I am sure the helix do) but the bit-one RTO has timed the turn-on and turn-off to make sure thumps dont occur.
So for now :
2 amps and BitOne turned on from HU
Third amp turned on from BitOne.
Is there a fuse needed between B1 RTO and third amp or is it just a single wire running between them? Sorry for such a noob question.
I would run the HU RTO to turn on the bit-one. then the bit-one RTO to turn on a relay. then use the relay to turn on all the amplifiers. as for fusing, if you really want you can. get a 500mA fast blow for the RTO wires and put 1-15A on the relay (most relays have 15A contacts, but you dont need to fuse it to its potential)
Original post whore!
Disclaimer:Opinions of the above are the property of the poster
Stock Sync HU |AC LC2i | Phoenix Gold EQ215i | Soundstream SA120 -> ID CD1eMH | JL 300/2 -> ID X65 | JL 500/1 -> (2) 15" Pyle PL1590BL in IB
no, I mean do you hear any thumps when you turn on the car or turn it off? some HUs or DSPs can emit a little thump when they turn on and off and the amplifier will play it. it can be destructive to the speakers. Turning on amplifier last and turning them off first is the key. this is why all have mentioned using the RTO on the bit-one because it does this timing.
as I mentioned, if you dont hear those thumps, dont worry about it. some higher end amplifiers have delayed turn-on and quick off to avoid those thumps.
Original post whore!
Disclaimer:Opinions of the above are the property of the poster
Stock Sync HU |AC LC2i | Phoenix Gold EQ215i | Soundstream SA120 -> ID CD1eMH | JL 300/2 -> ID X65 | JL 500/1 -> (2) 15" Pyle PL1590BL in IB
Can i run the RTO from the HU (DEX P90) to the DSP (DEQ p90) and then from the DSP to all the other 3 amps? Now i got all my four RTO running from the HU...and I got some pop sounds coming out from my mid bass and sub...I think this can solve the problem...is this safer?
Can i run the RTO from the HU (DEX P90) to the DSP (DEQ p90) and then from the DSP to all the other 3 amps? Now i got all my four RTO running from the HU...and I got some pop sounds coming out from my mid bass and sub...I think this can solve the problem...is this safer?
Does the DEQ P90 have a separate RTO wire? unless the DEQ delays the turn-on, it wont help. you can try the re-wire, it certainly wont hurt anything. but if it doesnt help, then I would try something like a PAC tr7. those are programmable for a turn-on delay.
Original post whore!
Disclaimer:Opinions of the above are the property of the poster
Stock Sync HU |AC LC2i | Phoenix Gold EQ215i | Soundstream SA120 -> ID CD1eMH | JL 300/2 -> ID X65 | JL 500/1 -> (2) 15" Pyle PL1590BL in IB
I wish I can get the PAC TR7 u r recommending...this pop sounds really annoyed me...the DSP doesnt seems to have its own remote wire...it just have a remote turn on terminal...i think Ill try to connect the other 3 amps remote through the remote turn on connector of the DSP...my only worry is that it will damage the DSP? R u sure that it is safe to do so?
Fuse rating for remote relay
I'm not a native speaker(but a solid driver 
) so I didn't figure it out.
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